MASTER 
NEGATIVE 

NO.  91-80363 


aUCROFILMED  1991 
COLUMBIA  L^IVERSITY  LIBRARIES 'NEW  YORK 


as  part  of  the 
"Foundations  of  Western  Civilization  Preservation  Project"" 


Funded  bv  the 
ATION.^L  ENDOWMENT  FOR  THE  H 


/  \      i 


Reproductions  may  not  be  made  without  permission  from 

Columbia  University  Ubvdxy 


COPYRIGHT  STATEMENT 

The  copyright  law  of  the  United  States  ~-  Title  17,  United 
States  Code  -  concerns  the  making  of  photocopies  or  other 
reproductions  of  copyrighted  material... 

Columbia  University  Library  reserves  the  right  to  refuse  to 
accept  a  copy  order  if,  in  its  judgement,  fulfillment  of  the  order 
would  involve  violation  of  the  copyright  law. 


f  • 


AUTHOR: 


SOUTHEY,  ROBERT 


TITLE : 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR  IN 
THE  NETHERLANDS  ... 

PLACE: 

LONDON 

DA  TE : 

1903 


a 


■>.  k.  i„,  ij  i,  i  .  t,. 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LTBRAKTFS 

PKHSERVATiON  DEPARTMENr 


BI 13 LIOGRAPHIC  MICROFORM  TARG ii  I 


Ongiiiai  Material  as  Filmed  -  Hxistiiig  Bibliographic  ReuriU 


^1-0C?36  3'/H. 


Restrictions  on  Use: 


949.2 


Soijthey,  Robert,  i774-~-lS43. 

'loiiriial  of  a  t(Hir  iri  tlie  Netherlands  in  the  autumn  uf 
iHiS.  by  Kof>rrt  8()iitiicn%  with  an  introduction  bj  W.  Eobert- 
SOI,  XirniL    London,  W.  Ifememann,  1903, 

ivL  2G3,  |1|  p,     lilus.     20i« 
Head  and  tail  piewj. 


1.   NefhOTlnnds—Descr,  A   trfif. 


i^  >'iCM!l,   Sir   Wjiilam    iiooprrson, 


Llbrarj  of  Congress 


^-      1)11431,870 
/      fa2ftfli 


3— 3!  807 


Tl'CHNIGAL  MICROFORM  DATA 


FILM      SIZE;  __ _.  __  ^zlc  .r^  r::! 

IMAGE  PLACEMENT:    lA  ,UiA^'  IB     IID 
DATE      FILMED: 


REDUCTION      RATIO: 


fL. 


1 N  ITT  A  L S 


/  Ts 


_,_ .  _i_ ._,  „.»ife. 4  „,„,, . . . 


FILMED  BY:    RESEARCI!  PUBITCATIONS, INC   VVOODBRIDGE,  CT 


1 

r 

Association  for  Information  and  image  IManagement 

1100  Wayne  Avenue,  Suite  1100 
Silver  Spring,  Maryland  20910 

301/587-8202 


Centimeter 

12         3        4         5 

liiiilimli 


11 


I     I 


iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiMiiniiiiimiiiiiii 


Inches 


6         7        8         9        10 

Imiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliiiiliii 


I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 
1  2 


I 


FIT 


1.0 


M 


1.25 


11        12       13       14       15    mm 

iniLiJiliiiiliiiili 


4.0 


1.4 


Ik 

2.8 

i^ 

U^    \\ 

13.2 

163 

■  71 

3.6 

2.5 


2.2 


2.0 


1.8 


1.6 


TTT 


Ul4i44l44'4U^ 


1 


n 


MflNUFnCTURED   TO   RUM   STRNDPRDS 
BY   nPPLIED   IMRGEp     INC. 


«J.'«niilHU«laMMfcl  I 


^ 


y 


?)\<5>.'£. 


OO^^ 


LIBRARY 


4^ 


\i 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR  IN 
THE  NETHERLANDS   IN 

THE    AUTUMN    OF   1815 


a8ggffig{|jg^|si^iMA^^a--^»i^ 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR  IN 
THE  NETHERLANDS  IN 
THE  AUTUMN  OF  1815 
BY  ROBERT  SOUTHEY 
WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION 
BY  W.  ROBERTSON  NICOLL 


WILLIAM    HEINEMANN 
LONDON  MDCCCCIII 


INTRODUCTION 


U-  \\  0^7 


SouTHEY  wrote  this  Diary  during  one  of  the 
most  prosperous  periods  of  his  anxious,  labo- 
rious, and  happy  life.  In  1813  Croker''s  influ- 
ence with  the  Regent,  backed  up  by  Scotfs, 
procured  for  him  the  appointment  of  Poet 
Laureate,  with  a  salary  of  not  more  than  d^lOO. 

"  That  wreath  which  in  Eliza's  golden  days 
My  master  dear,  divinest  Spenser,  wore  ; 
That  which  rewarded  Drayton's  learned  lays, 

Which  thoughtful  Ben  and  gentle  Daniel  bore — 
Grin,  Envy,  through  thy  ragged  mask  of  scorn  ! 
In  honour  it  was  given,  with  honour  it  is  worn." 

Though  he  had  stipulated  that  he  should  be 
excused  the  drudgery  of  composing  birthday 
odes,  he  was  quite  alive  to  the  duties  of  his 
position,  and  deemed  himself  bound  to  cele- 
brate the  victory  of  Waterloo.  He  did  so  in 
the  verses  entitled  ^^  The  Poet's  Pilgrimage  to 
Waterloo,''  which    is   a   fair   specimen    of  his 


INTRODUCTION 


INTRODUCTION 


poems  on  public  events.  He  hgid  been  enjoy- 
ing for  some  years  a  good  income  from  the 
Quarterly  and  from  the  Edinburgh  "Annual 
Register,'^  and  had  achieved  his  greatest  success 
as  a  prose  writer  in  his  "  Life  of  Nelson,""  pub- 
lished in  1813.  His  extensive  poem,  "  Roderick 
the  Last  of  the  Goths,""  had  been  applauded  by 
the  Edinburgh  as  "the  best  and  the  most 
powerful  of  all  Mr.  Southey"s  poems.""  The 
Quarterly  had  declared  that  the  work  would 
"form  an  epoch  in  the  literary  history  of  his 
country,""  convey  to  himself  "  a  name  per- 
durable on  earth,  and  to  the  age  in  which  he 
lives  a  character  that  need  not  fear  compari- 
son with  that  of  any  by  which  it  has  been 
preceded.""  Southey  himself  complacently  ob- 
served :  "  Nothing  can  be  more  absurd  than 
thinking  of  comparing  any  of  my  poems  with 
'  Paradise  Lost."  With  Tasso,  with  Virgil,  with 
Homer  there  may  be  fair  grounds  cf  compari- 
son."" This  praise  had  been  followed  by  solid 
results  in  the  way  of  cash,  and  Southey  was 
induced  to  disturb  the  regularity  of  his  life  by 
taking  a  Continental  journey,  lliere  were  few 
men  whom  it  was  harder  to  move,  few  men  who 

vi 


missed  more  the  comfortable  routine  of  his 
days.  He  dined  at  four,  and  then  read  himself 
asleep  on  his  sofa.  It  was  the  short  nap  then 
enjoyed  which  he  most  missed  of  all  things  when 
by  any  chance  away  from  home.  He  wakened 
for  his  tea,  and  turned  to  work  again,  especially 
happy  if  there  were  proof-sheets  to  correct.  The 
correction  of  proofs  was  always  the  supreme 
luxury  of  his  experiences.  He  supped  lightly 
at  nine,  indulged  himself  for  an  hour  or  so  with 
some  solid  folio,  and  a  single  glass  of  hot  rum 
punch,  enriched  with  a  little  black  currant  jelly 
— and  so  to  bed.  Though  he  was  able  to  afford 
the  expenses  of  this  journey,  yet  it  was  not  till 
1834  that  he  found  himself  in  possession  of 
money  sufficient  for  the  usual  demands  of  a 
year. 

At  the  time  of  this  excursion  there  was  great 
peace  in  Southey"s  family  circle.  There  never 
was  a  heart  more  acutely  responsive  than  his  to 
the  joys  and  sorrows  of  family  life.  He  traced 
all  his  happiness  to  his  early  marriage;  and 
when  in  1834  his  wife"s  mind  gave  way,  he  said 
in  one  of  his  letters  that  for  "  forty  years  she 
had  been  the  life  of  his  life.""    To  his  children 

vii 


IINIRODUCTION 


he  was  attached  with  peculiar  tenderness,  and 
there  can  be  little  doubt  that  his  sufFerinss 
from  bereavement  gradually  broke  him  down. 
The  greatest  sorrow  of  all  was  impending  when 
he  wrote  this  Diary,  though  he  did  not  antici- 
pate it.  His  eldest  and  most  gifted  son, 
Herbert,  died  on  ITth  April,  1816. 

The  Diary  here  printed  is  a  simple  and  artless 
record,  less  elaborate  than  Southey's  published 
works  of  the  same  kind,  like  the  "  Letters  on 
Spain  and  Portugal " ;  but  nevertheless  pleasing 
and  individual.  No  reader  of  Southey  will  expect 
a  contribution  to  military  history.  The  Duke 
of  Wellington  himself,  speaking  of  Southey's 
"  History  of  the  Peninsular  AVar,''  declared  that 
Southey  signally  misapprehended  his  battles 
and  campaigns.  Southey 's  elaborate  Quarterly 
Review  article  on  the  Duke  of  Wellington  shows, 
however,  that  he  had  given  much  attention  to 
his  subject. 

There  are  one  or  two  glimpses  of  interesting 
people.  Among  them  may  be  noted  Mr.  and 
Mi-s.  Locker.  They  were  the  parents  of 
Frederick  Locker-Lampson,  who  in  his  autobio- 
giaphy,  "'  My  Confidences,"  describes  them  at 


Vlll 


INTRODUCTION 


some  length.     Jonathan  Boucher  (not  Bouchers) 
had  a  lively  career,  and  died  Vicar  of  Epsom, 
in  1804.    His  daughter,  Mrs.  Locker,  the  beauty 
of  Cumberland,  is  described  by  her  son  as  ex- 
ceedingly handsome.     "  Tall  and  fine,  she  had 
a  remarkably  graceful  carriage,  a  natural  dignity 
of  manner  and  movement ;  and  this  description 
held  good  when  she  was  more  than  sixty  years 
old.     She  had  an  innocent  anxious  face.     She 
told  me  that  she  was  very  timid  as  a  girl,  and 
that  when  first  married  to  my  father  she  was 
afraid  of  him.''    She  was  much  younger  than  her 
husband.      Mr.    Locker  was    a   man   of    fine 
qualities,  and   an  old  and  true  friend  of   Sir 
Walter  Scott.     The  glimpses  of  Southey  as  a 
book  buyer  are  attractive.    One  wonders  whether 
he  bought  his  set  of  the  "  Acta   Sanctorum  " 
from  the  young  man  in  "  dirty  but  scholarlike 
costume,''  in  a  Ghent  library.     Whether  or  not, 
the  "  Acta  "  had  a  prominent  place  in  his  library. 
Lockhart  sketches  him  there  surrounded  with 
the   aUe  of  his   books,   mostly    Spanish    and 
Portuguese,  and  bound  in  vellum.     Works  held 
unworthy  of  costly  binding  were  clad  in  calico 
by  the  ladies  of  his  family,  and  had  a  gaiTet 


IX 


INTRODUCTION 


INTRODUCTION 


to  themselves  styled  the  Cottonian  Library. 
Southev  sat  at  a  rather  tall  desk  in  the  middle 
of  the  apartment,  while  three  or  four  ladies  were 
either  busy  with  needlework  by  the  fireside,  or 
in  comers  copying  extracts. 

One  i.otices  here,  as  elsewhere,  the  immense 
influence  which  Southey's  short  stay  in  Spain 
and  Portugal  had  upon  his  life.  It  unquestion- 
ably injured  his  literary  work.  He  chose  subjects 
like  the  "  History  of  Brazil,''  which  had  little 
interest  for  Englishmen,  and  were  related  with 
fatal  minuteness.  Whitwell  Elwin  is  right  in 
saying  that  if  Southey  had  remained  at  home 
during  the  critical  period  when  his  tastes  were 
becoming  fixed,  he  would  |^ave  selected  an 
English  theme  for  his  chief  productions,  and  his 
fame  would  have  been  associated  with  some 
standard  history  of  our  language  and  literature. 
In  this  way  the  journey  to  Lisbon  may  have  been 
in  its  permanent  consequences  a  most  unfortu- 
nate step  in  Southey 's  life.  On  the  other  hand, 
he  had  the  utmost  delight  in  the  perpetual 
exhilaration  of  a  climate  that  not  merely,  as  he 
said,  prolonged  life,  but  gave  him  double  the 
life  while  it  lasted.     The  mere  act  of  breathing 


was  a  positive  pleasure.  When  he  got  back  to 
England,  his  fondest  hope,  a  hope  never  realised^ 
was  that  he  might  obtain  a  position  in  Lisbon 
which  would  enable  him  to  return  and  make  it 
his  home. 

W.  ROBERTSON  NICOLL. 


XI 


AUTHOR'S 
INTRODUCTION 

I  WAS  not  among  those  persons  who  took  the 
earliest  opportunity  of  going  to  the  continent 
when,  after  having  so  long  been  closed  to  English, 
travellers,  it  was  once  more  opened  upon  the 
overthrow  and  abdication  of  Buonaparte.  A 
journey  which  might  have  seemed  easy  from 
the  south  of  England  appeared  formidable- 
when  contemplated  in  Cumberland;  moreover,^ 
I  was  wedded  to  the  enjoyments  and  occupa- 
tions of  domestic  life;  and  my  wishes  as  well 
as  habits  were  so  disciplined  that,  except  now 
and  then  in  books,  I  never  incurred  any  ex- 
penditure which  could  with  propriety  be  spared^ 
If  a  thought  of  visiting  France  and  Switzerland 
was  ever  entertained,  it  was  in  the  potential 
mood,  and  in  the  paulo-post-^tturum  tense. 

It  happened,  however,  a  few  weeks  after  the 
battle  of  Waterloo,  that  my  brother  Henry,. 

•  •  • 
XIU 


,**'" 


^ 


INTRODUCTION 


who  was  just  married,  asked  me  to  join  him  in  a 
bridal  excursion  which  he  was  about  to  make 
with  his  wife's  mother  and  sister — older  friends 
of  mine  than  of  his.  They  proposed  to  go  by 
way  of  Ostend  to  Brussels,  visit  the  field  of 
battle,  proceed  as  far  as  Spa,  if  time  would 
allow,  and  take  Antwerp  on  their  return. 
Tempted  by  this  proposal,  I  prevailed,  but 
not  without  much  persusision,  on  my  wife  to 
-accompany  me  and  take  with  us  our  eldest 
daughter,  then  in  her  twelfth  year.  The  sale 
of  Roderick,  which  had  been  recently  pub- 
lished, was  at  that  time  such  as  fairly  justified 
such  an  expenditure,  and  being,  moreover,  in 
some  degree  bound  to  celebrate  the  greatest 
victory  in  British  history,  I  persuaded  myself 
that  if  any  person  had  a  valid  cause  or  pretext 
for  visiting  the  field  of  Waterloo,  it  was  the 
Poet  Laureate.  Henry  Koster  happened  to  be 
with  us.  Soon  after  his  second  residence  in 
Brazil  he  came  to  visit  me  for  a  few  days,  and 
having  taken  his  departure  on  the  top  of  the 
stage  coach,  was  brought  back  in  a  few  hours 
with  one  of  the  muscles  of  the  thigh  split,  in 
-consequence  of  an  overtimi.     The  accident  con- 

xiv 


INTRODUCTION 


'7- 


fined  him  several  weeks ;  he  was  now  thoroughly 
recovered  and  easily  obtained  his  father's  leave 
to  join  a  party  of  Lisbonians. 

Our  outset  was  singularly  inauspicious.   Some 

little  delay  had  occurred  on  my  side,  and  my 

brotlier  had  no  time   to  lose,  because  of  his 

professional  engagements  and  the  arrangements 

which   he   had  made   for   supplying  his   place 

during  his  absence.     When  we  drove  up  to  his 

door  in  Queen  Anne  Street  he  was  gone.     My 

Uncle,  instead  of  being  at  Streatham,  was  at 

his   Hampshire  living,  and   to    compleat    the 

series  of  disappointments  Edith  found  that  her 

two  sisters,  Martha  and  Eliza  (the  latter  having 

lately  come  to  London  to  visit  the  former)  were 

gone  to  Ramsgate.     She  consoled  herself  with 

the   expectation   of  seeing   them    there,   from 

whence    we    were    to    embark,   but   when   we 

arrived,  behold,  on  that  very  morning  they  had 

embarked  in  the   steamboat  for   their  retunu 

It  was  not  without  great  difficulty  that  I  had 

persuaded    her    to    leave    four    children,    the 

youngest  only  three  years  old,  for  this  excursion. 

She   had   left   home   in    ill   health  and   worse 

spirits ;  both  worsened  during  the  long  journey 


XV 


iBM|g(^.-*'*^lSi««S#a^^3g^ilS*J^^^gi^rf*^t'=s^^  "jSaW-'^-l'-K  ■J^,J^*"'f-  *t.'-~' 


li  U  C  T  1  O  N 


from  Keswick  to  Ramsgate,  and  the  best  hope 
I  now  had  was  tliat  sea  sickness,  with  the  total 
and  frequent  change  of  air,  scene  and  circum- 
stance, would  remove  what  began  to  appear 
a  very  formidable  malady. 


XVI 


JOURNAL 


^iW 


OsTEND,  Saturday^  Sept,  23,  1815. 

"E  left  Ramsgate  yesterday  morning  at 
half  after  twelve,  with  so  fair  and  fresh  a 
breeze,  that  the  Captain  promised  us  a  passage 
of  eight  or  nine  hours,  or  less,  if  the  wind 
should  hold.  It  slackened,  and  we  did  not 
arrive  at  Ostend  till  four  the  next  morning. 
Sixteen  hours,  however,  cannot  be  called  a  bad 
passage;  the  average  is  from  ten  to  twelve. 
My  brother  and  his  party  were  forty-three. 
The  fare  is  a  guinea  and  half,  and  you  provide 
yourself.  But  there  is  a  system  of  exaction  at 
Ramsgate  which  is  not  confined  to  the  Albion 
Hotel.  Dawson,  the  agent  for  the  packet, 
seeing  my  daughter,  said  that  her  fare  would 

[         1         ]  A 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

be  sixteen  shillings.  Capt.  Aylesbury,  of  the 
Lord  Liverpool^  seeing  her  also,  rated  her  at 
twenty.  I  offered  to  pay  him  at  the  time,  but 
he  chose  rather  to  receive  the  money  at  Ostend, 
and  then  demanded  by  his  mate  full  price  for 
the  child.  The  plea  for  this  was  that  she  had 
occupied  a  whole  berth ;  but  this  he  knew  she 
must  have  done,  if  we  were  out  at  night.  She 
suffered  a  good  deal  from  sickness  ;  her  mother, 
to  whom  it  might  have  proved  remedial,  wholly 
escaped  it.  The  little  food  which  I  took  was 
taken  in  commendaro  for  the  fishes,  and  faith- 
fully rendered  up  to  them. 

There  came  on  rain  about  two  in  the  night, 
so  that  I  lost  the  entrance  of  the  harbour, 
which,  tho**  of  little  importance,  I  am  yet 
sorry  that  I  did  not  see.  We  lay  close  to  the 
quay,  and  the  packet  was  presently  filled  with 
porters,  all  speaking  English,  and  all  contending 
who  should  carry  the  passengers'  luggage.  An 
Irishman  belonging  to  the  veteran  battalion 
came  among  them,  but  he  was  treated  as  an 
interloper ;  and  enough  passed  upon  this  occa- 
sion to  show  that  there  was  a  jealousy  between 
the  natives  and  the  garrison.     We  ended  the 

[        2        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


dispute  by  leaving  our  trunks  on  board,  and 
when  we  returned  for  them  gave  the  preference, 
as  was  proper,  to  the  people  of  the  place.     At 
the  Custom  House  we  found  more  dispatch  and 
much  more  civility  than  foreigners  under  like 
circumstances   would    meet   with   in   England. 
My  first  business,  of  course,  was  at  the  Banker's. 
The  money  which  I  took  up  there  was  all  in 
French  coin,  which  it  seems  is  current  every- 
where.    Dim  protege   la  France  is   inscribed 
around  the  edge.     I  observed  on  a  five-franc 
piece,  bearing  date  An.  XI.,  Napoleon  Empereur 
on  one  side,  and  Repuhliqtte  Fran^aise  on  the 
other.     The  pieces  of  later  date  have  Empire 
Frangaise  and  the  Christian  era. 

Had  we  amved  last  night  we  could  not  have 
been  lodged  at  the  Cour  Imperiale,  to  which 
Bedford  and   Herrier  had  directed  me.     The 
apartments,  they  told  us  there,  were  all  full, 
owing  to  the  concourse  of  people  returning  from 
the  Coronation  at  Brussels.     We  were  intro- 
duced to  the  public  room,  which  is  large  and 
wainscotted ;    the  pannels  of  a  light  blue  or 
French  grey,   with    mouldings,   and   a   brown 
edging ;  the  framing  or  interstices  tea  colour. 

[       3       ] 


mmsimim 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


It  has  three  looking-glasses,  two  between  the 
three  windows,  and  the  third,  a  tall  one,  over 
the  chimney-piece.     The  floor  is  boarded  and 
strewn   with  sand— an   uncomfortable  custom. 
There  are  large  square  tables  in  two  comers  of 
the  room,  another  such  against  the  wall  oppo- 
site  the   windows,  and   two  long  tables,  each 
formed  of  two  such,  in  the  middle  of  the  room. 
These  tables  are  all  covered  with  a  gi^een  oil- 
cloth, which  is  let  in,  like  the  cloth  or  leather 
of  a  writing-table.     The  chairs  are  inexpensive, 
and   well-shaped    for   ease,   with   round   rush- 
bottoms  ;  the  backs  are  of  cherry  tree,  and  in 
form  not  unlike  the  present  fashion  of  broad- 
banded  dining  chaii-s  in  England,  but  rather 
more  concave  and  lower  in  the  back.     A  bill  of 
prices  is  hung  up  in  the  room.     Dinner  at  the 
tabU  d'hote,  2fr.  50  per  head ;  private  dinners, 
from  5  to  18fr. ;   breakfast,  2fr. ;    apartments 
from  3  to  9fr.  per  day ;  bedrooms,  2fr.,  mean- 
ing, I  suppose,  such  as  are  distinct  from  the 
sitting-room— the  lodging-rooms  of  those  who 
live  at  the  public  table.     Wines  are  from  3  to 
lOfr.  per  bottle.     Claret  is  the  cheapest  upon 
this  list;   Burgimdy  d'Enclos  de  Vegetan  the 

t       4       ] 


• 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

highest  priced ;  port,  Hermitage,  and  Rhenish 
of  the  best  quality,  7fr.  each.  When  I  enquired 
whether  Ladies  dined  at  the  table  d'hote,  the 
waiter  replied  in  his  English  that  the  biggest 
persons  in  the  town  dined  there.  This  suits 
us,  the  dinner  being  at  one,  and  the  vessel 
for  Bruges  departing  at  three.  It  pleases  us, 
because  we  shall  see  more  of  Flemish  manners 
and  customs ;  and,  moreover,  in  the  present 
case  there  is  no  alternative. 

I  went  into  the  court  to  wash  myself;  the 
bason  was  most  inconveniently  shallow,  being 
just  like  a  small  sallad-dish.  They  brought  me 
soft  black  soap  and  a  check  towel,  which  I  did 
not  perceive  to  be  dirty  till  I  had  used  it :  a 
bad  specimen  this  of  Flemish  cleanliness  !  That 
my  face  might  undergo  its  due  ablutions  I  went 
to  the  pump,  and  did  not  at  first  discover  that  it 
had  a  cock  instead  of  a  common  spout — a  proof 
this  that  they  cannot  afford  to  waste  fresh  water. 

The  bread  is  shaped  like  a  ring,  as  if  it  had 
been  consecrated  to  my  old  Portugueze  acquaint- 
ance Our  Lady  of  the  round  O.  They  call  it 
pain  de  trou,  which  may  properly  be  englished 
ring-bread ;  or  we  should  call  them  simply  rings, 

[       5       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

as  we  speak  of  twists.  Edith  May  saw  the 
baker  bringing  a  number  of  them  on  his  arm, 
like  so  many  bracelets.  I  perceive  the  reason 
of  this  form :  the  waiter,  who  is  now  laying 
the  bread  for  dinner,  cuts  the  loaf  up  with  more 
ease  and  rapidity  than  he  could  do  were  it  in 
any  other  form.  Nothing  can  be  better  than 
the  bread  ;  the  butter  equally  excellent ;  coffee 
abominable  and  no  cream.  The  urn  unlike 
anything  which  bears  that  name  in  England, 
but  not  ugly,  if  the  workmanship  had  been  good 
or  the  vessel  itself  plain.  It  has  large  handles 
and  a  large  clumsy  brass  cock,  and  there  is  a 
wooden  tripod  of  unpainted  wood  for  a  stand. 
While  we  were  at  breakfast  a  man  in  the  street 
blew  a  long  brazen  horn  to  give  notice  that  the 
hot  bread  was  ready. 

The  town  is  handsome,  if  compared  with 
English  towns ;  the  streets  clean,  straight  and 
spacious.  There  was  in  the  morning  an  Edin- 
burgh or  Lisbon  odour,  evincing  that  unfit  use 
was  made  of  the  windows.  And  to  this  the 
gutters  bore  some  evidence  in  their  colour. 
But  the  fnaids  are  so  busy  with  their  besoms 
that  little  of  this  remains,  and  the  men  who 

[       6       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

walk  about  with  pipes  in  their  mouths  are 
numerous  enough  to  diffuse  a  wholesome  saTour 
of  tobacco  through  the  streets. 

The  only  booksellers'  shop  which  I  could 
find  afforded  me  nothing  better  than  a  school 
book  half  vocabulary,  half  grammar,  in  French 
and  Flemish. 

I  led  Edith  May  to  a  large  Calvary  at  one  of 
the  Churches,  it  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  tower, 
under  a  shallow  porch  which  forms  part  of  the 
edifice.  The  image  on  the  cross  and  the  per- 
sonages kneeling  round  it  are  as  large  as  life 
and  coloured  to  the  life.  In  front  there  is  a 
foreground  of  stones  and  skulls;  and  under 
this,  which  is  raised  some  20  feet  from  the 
ground,  is  a  picture  of  the  souls  in  Purgatory. 

The  churches  into  which  I  entered  contained 
little  that  was  interesting ;  and  there  were  only 
three  or  four  old  women  in  them  at  their  devo- 
tions. In  the  porch  of  one  there  was  an  in- 
scription to  forbid  the  entrance  of  dogs.  Near 
the  Town-House,  which  is  in  the  great  Square 
or  Place,  there  is  a  tall  pillar  with  an  iron  at 
the  top,  bent  like  a  shepherd's  crook.  Thinking 
of  the  pellourinho  in  Portugueze  towns,  I  asked 

[       7       1 


;i 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

if  this  were  used  for  a  gallows,  and  was  told  in 
reply  that  they  never  hang  at  Ostend,  and  that 
a  large  lanthom  was  suspended  from  this  pillar 
in  winter.  The  market  in  this  Square  and  in 
a  smaller  place  hard  by  remarkably  good. 
Poultry  and  rabbits  in  great  abundance,  live 
partridges  and  quails ;  eggs  in  baskets-full,  salt- 
fish  whiter  and  cleaner  than  I  had  ever  before 
seen  it  exposed  for  sale,  and  in  one  corner  a 
heap  of  wooden  shoes  upon  the  ground.  It  is 
surprizing  how  commonly  English  is  spoken 
and  understood.  We  bought  some  grapes  in 
the  market.  I  took  a  bunch  and  asked  how 
rmwh^  expecting  the  language  would  pass  cur- 
rent ;  the  woman  replied  four  pence  a  pound — 
so  the  money  is  current  also.  But  she  ex- 
changed my  shilling  as  a  franc,  that  is,  as  ten- 
pence — the  rate  of  exchange  in  such  purchases. 
Upon  our  landing  a  man  presented  himself  to 
take  our  passports,  and  get  them  approved. 
When  he  brought  them  to  the  Inn  I  gave  him 
two  francs,  and  was  blamed  by  some  English- 
men for  so  doing ;  they  said  he  had  volunteered 
his  services  merely  in  the  hope  of  obtaining 
money,  and  told  me  that  in  all  fees  and  pay- 

[       8       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

ments  I  must  consider  two  francs  as  equal  to 
half-a-crown  in  England.  I  may  have  given 
the  man  a  franc  more  than  he  expected,  but  in 
letting  him  take  the  passport  for  ratification 
I  followed  the  usual  and  useful  practice. 

Most  of  the  shops  have  English  inscriptions, 
such  as,  "  Here  is  sold  every  all  sorts  of 
liquor.*"  The  houses  in  general  are  very  good ; 
the  gable-end  to  the  street,  and  with  corbie- 
stairs  as  in  Scotland.  There  is  plainly  no 
window-tax  here,  operating  to  outward  dis- 
figurement and  inward  discomfort;  the  win- 
dows are  many,  large,  and  ornamented,  with 
rounded  or  arched  tops.  One  house  I  noticed 
which  is  painted  the  whole  front  of  a  grass 
green.  The  women  wear  large  ear-rings  ;  I  saw 
some  with  silver  necklaces,  and  one  whose 
kerchief  was  fastened  with  a  plate  of  silver  large 
as  the  plate  of  brass  with  my  name  on  the  port- 
manteau. They  wear  large  cloaks ;  those  of  the 
poorer  classes  look  as  if  they  were  made  of  old 
bed-linen  furniture ;  and  some  are  of  patchwork. 

Among  the  signs  I  remarked,  at  a  Tobac- 
conist's, a  red  cat,  smoking  a  pipe ;  it  was  in 
carving,  and  larger  than  life. 

[       9       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

Writing  this  while  the  waiter  was  laying  the 
tables  for  dinner,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  ask- 
ing why  certain  plates  were  reversed  upon  the 
napkins.  They  are  for  persons  who  dine  here 
by  the  week,  and  use  the  same  napkin  from 
Sunday  to  Sunday.  Pepper  is  placed  in  a  sepa- 
rate salver,  beside  the  salt — a  sensible  custom 
this. 

Leather  is  not  so  much  used  as  in  England. 
I  saw  a  man  seated  in  front  of  a  long  low 
waggon,  driving  by  a  long  rope.  Where  the 
streets  cross  the  gutter  is  covered  with  wooden 
doors  ;  it  thus  offers  no  obstruction  to  carriages, 
and  can  be  cleaned  with  ease.  There  is  a  Be- 
guinage  in  this  street  (Rue  de  la  Chapelle),  a 
large  building  of  conventual  appearance,  with  a 
large  walled  garden.  It  adjoins  the  Church 
with  the  Calvary.  The  waiter  tells  me  there 
are  about  twenty  Beguines,  and  that  strangers 
are  admitted  only  on  Sundays.  The  large 
wooden  gates  are  kept  close,  and  forbid  even 
the  eye  to  enter. 

The  dinner  at  the  table  d'hote  was  excellent. 
The  dishes  were  handed  in  through  a  sliding 
door    in    the   wall.      The   company   consisted 

[        10       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

almost  entirely  of  English,  and  not  of  the  best 
sort.     There  were  only  two  ladies,  who,  finding 
no  room  at  the  long  table,  were  at  a  smaller 
one ;  so  that  Edith  naturally  enough  felt  un- 
comfortable, and  we  withdrew  before  the  desert. 
Our  luggage  (surely  as  little  as  four  travel- 
lers of  gentle  appearance  and  pretensions  ever 
set  forth  with)  was  placed  upon  a  hand-cart, 
and  away  we  went  to  the  waterside,  where  we 
embarked  in  a  boat  which  carried  us  along  the 
harbour  to  the  mouth  of  the   Bruges   canal. 
There  were  not  many  ships  in  the  port,  yet 
enough   to  show  in  these  still  waters  and  be- 
tween these  level    shores  that  sort  of  beauty 
whereof   some    great    painters     have    become 
enamoured.     A  man  was  fishing  from  a  boat  in 
the  harbour  :  the  net  was  extended  by  four  long 
and  pliant  ribs,  like  those  of  an  umbrella,  and 
thus  suspended  form  the  mast,  and  he,  winding  it 
up  and  down  by  a  windlass,  managed  it  alone.    It 
rained  while  we  were  in  the  boat,  and  when  we 
went  on  board  the  Trekschuit — embarking,  as  I 
suppose,  at  the  very  place  which  the  English, 
in  one  of  Mr.  Pitt's  expeditions,  so  absurdly 
destroyed,   and   which,   when   made   prisoners, 

[       11       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

they  were  very  properly  compelled  to  labour  in 
repairing.  This  was  a  fact  which  I  did  not  call 
to  mind  without  some  sense  of  humiliation. 

The  Trekschuit,  being  flat-bottomed,  is  much 
more  roomy  than  would  be  supposed  from  its 
size.  The  best  cabin  is  somewhat  splendidly 
fitted  up  with  cut  crimson  plush,  a  seat  covered 
with  the  same  material  running  round  it.  There 
are  cabins  both  at  the  head  and  stem,  and  in 
the  middle  a  large  apartment  full  of  market- 
women  returning  from  Ostend.  The  confusion 
of  tongues  seemed  in  our  ears  to  resemble  that 
at  Babel,  and  the  vessel  itself  was  a  perfect  Ark, 
which  some  Flemish  Antiquary  might  prove  to 
be  built  upon  the  traditional  model  of  Noah's. 
It  was  tantalizing  to  be  kept  below  by  a  heavy 
rain,  accompanied  by  so  much  wind  that  I  could 
not  keep  a  window  open  without  incommoding 
some  of  the  passengers,  and  this  I  had  neither 
right  nor  inclination  to  do.  On  the  lee  side 
there  was  luckily  a  pane  wanting  in  the  frame, 
and  thro'  this  scanty  aperture  Edith  May  and 
I  spied  what  we  could  as  the  Ark  glided  along. 
The  banks  are  protected  with  rows  of  hurdle  or 
basket-work,  five  or  six  in  depth  we  counted, 

[        12       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

and  were  told  that  they  were  eight  or  nine 
thick.     I  thought  I  saw  rat-holes  in  the  banks. 

There  were  two  Flemings  in  the  cabin  with 
us,  well-behaved  and  sensible  men.  I  learnt 
from  one  of  them  that  the  Beguines  were  of  two 
orders,  one  being  bound  by  irrevocable  vows, 
and  that  this  order  had  not  been  restored.  In 
the  Ramsgate  packet  was  an  old  lady  returning 
to  her  native  place,  Brussels,  from  which  she 
had  been  absent  eighteen  years.  She  told  me 
that  the  Beguines  lived  in  community,  ^ye  or 
six  together  under  the  superintendence  of  an 
elder  sister,  for  some  seven  years,  after  which 
they  lived  as  they  pleased.  Beguinages,  accord- 
ing to  her  account,  are  rather  like  Alms-houses 
than  Convents. 

The  rain  ceased  and  we  ascended  the  deck. 
An  iron  tiller  passes  under  the  state  part  of  the 
deck,  and  rises  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  note 
of  interrogation,  or  the  letter  S  reversed,  (?) 
thus.  The  pilot  stood  with  his  crupper  lean- 
ing against  the  handle,  and  thus  with  perfect 
nonchalance  steered  the  vessel.  It  was  drawn 
by  four  horses,  fastened  to  two  ropes ;  but  we 
had  so  fair  a  wind  that  their  work  was  easy, 

[        13       ] 


J  1)1 

ill 


SI** 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

and  we  advanced  about  five  miles  an  hour.  The 
country,  which  towards  Ostend  had  little  to 
recommend  it,  except  the  cleanliness  of  the 
houses  and  the  appearance  of  competence  and 
comfort,  improved  here.  There  were  fewer 
houses  and  more  trees,  and  we  soon  perceived 
all  the  features  of  the  Flemish  landscape.  Fresh 
as  I  am  from  Derwentwater,  I  can  feel  the  beau- 
ties of  this  kind  of  country,  and  understand  how 
it  should  have  produced  so  many  painters.  It 
h6is  everything  which  is  soothing  and  tranquil 
— still  waters,  a  wide  horizon,  delicious  verdure, 
fertility  and  shade.  Trees  are  not  considered 
injurious  to  agriculture  here,  or  more  probably 
their  value  overbalances  any  injury  which  they 
may  occasion.  The  pollard  willow  often  bore 
no  mean  resemblance  to  the  cocoa,  its  light 
boughs  feathering  on  all  sides.  Poplar  and 
aspin  are  more  common  than  elm  and  oak,  and 
there  are  no  large  trees.  Their  shade  might  be 
detrimental,  or  the  regular  cutting  is  lucrative. 
The  cultivation  seems  to  be  beautiful  —  no 
weeds,  no  waste :  the  fields  all  in  parallelograms 
of  different  forms  and  sizes,  and  all  with  trees 
along  the  ditches  which  divide  them,  giving  to 

[        14        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


the  whole  country  a  woodiness  seldom  seen  in 
England,  and  never  as  accompanying  a  high 
state  of  agricultural  improvement.  There  is  a 
great  proportion  of  garden  land.  Woad  is 
grown  here,  and  much  used  as  a  die  in  the 
Bruges  manufactures,  I  believe.  All  the  houses 
which  we  past  were  neat  and  apparently  com- 
fortable, the  doors  and  window  shutters  were 
generally  of  a  bright  green.  The  bridges  over 
this  noble  canal  are  so  constructed  as  to  wheel 
round  and  afford  passage  for  the  vessel. 

We  reached  Bruges  a  little  before  dusk ;  its 
towers  as  we  approached  were  seen  very  finely 
over  this  sort  of  country.     A  crowd  gathered 
round  us  upon  our  landing,  and  a  fellow  offered 
to  take  us  and  our  luggage  for  two  franks  to  the 
Fleur  de  Bled,  whither  Bedford  had    recom- 
mended  me.     The  carriage  proved  to  be  a  cab- 
riolet, on  which  the  driver  most  incommodiously 
and  not  very  decently  sits  close  before  the  per- 
sons whom  he  drives.     Into  this  vehicle  the  two 
Ediths  were  put,   and   Koster  and  I    trotted 
beside  them  to  the  hotel.     Upon  my  presenting 
a  five-frank  piece  for  change  the  man  offered  me 
two,  claiming  the  third  partly  as  a  gratuity, 

[        15       ] 


tSt  teSMilf  J^-^^'^^aajrirtMiilMMigMMWWlJJ^^ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


partly  for  the  luggage.  I  resisted,  and  even  in 
my  embarrassed  French  put  him  in  some  degree 
to  shame,  maintaining  that  it  was  at  my 
pleasure  to  give  or  withold  the  third  frank,  a 
bargain  having  been  made  for  two.  But  whether 
I  saved  my  credit  or  not,  I  lost  my  money. 

The  apartment  to  which  we  were  shown  was 
a  bedchamber  in  a  tower,  to  which  we  ascended 
by  a  winding  flight  of  stone  stairs.  I  asked  if 
there  was  no  sitting-room,  and  we  were  then 
introduced  into  the  public  hall.  Here  we  im- 
mediately recognized  a  party  who  had  come 
over  in  the  same  packet,  and  had  left  Ostend 
in  the  morning,  travelling  by  land.  They  were 
sitting  at  their  dessert  after  a  late  dinner,  and 
happening  to  be  the  only  persons  in  the  room, 
greeted  us  as  acquaintance.  The  only  previous 
intercourse  we  had  had  was  at  Ostend,  where 
while  we  were  breakfasting  in  separate  parties, 
the  Lady  happened  to  hear  me  say,  as  I  was 
writing  my  journal,  that  for  the  first  time  in 
my  life  I  had  forgotten  to  provide  myself  with 
blotting  paper;  upon  which  she  rose  and  re- 
quested that  she  might  supply  me.  Nothing 
farther  had  passed.     But  they   had   seen  my 

[       16       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


name  when  I  signed  it  upon  leaving  the  packet ; 
and  some  of  those  hooks  and  eyes  were  now 
presently  found  out  by  which  any  two  persons 
of  a  certain  sphere,  in  so  small  a  country  as 
England,  can  hitch  on  an  acquaintance.     Mrs. 
Vardon,  the  lady  in  question,  has  a  sister  who 
is  married  to  my  old  schoolfellow  and  Oxfoixl 
acquaintance  George  JVJaule  ;  and  Knox  is  tutor 
to  her  sons  at  Westminster  and  passed  the  last 
holydays  at  her  house,  which  is  at  Greenwich, 
and  is  called  Crawley,  belonging  to  an  extensive 
iron  concern.     Mr.  Vardon  and  their  daughter 
are  of  the  party ;  Miss  Foreman,  niece  to  the 
widow  of  my  poor  old  friend  Charles  Collins ; 
and  Mr.  Nash,  a  deformed  man  of  uncommonly 
winning  manners.     He   is   an   artist,  and  has 
returned  from  India  with  a  liver  complaint. 

The  Vardons  had  been  at  Bruges  last  year, 
and  on  their  arrival  now  had  been  welcomed 
by  the  people  of  the  hotel  as  old  acquaint- 
ance. Thro'  their  introduction,  and  the  good 
humour  of  the  Flemish  character,  we  were  pre- 
sently at  home  in  the  house,  and  as  the  evening 
was  cool,  and  our  feet  somewhat  damp,  we  got 
into  the  kitchen.     No  painter  ever  had  a  richer 

[        17       ]  B 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

subject  than  this  admirably  characteristic  scene 
affords.  We  stood  in  a  large  open  chimney, 
some':hing  shallower  than  those  in  old  farm- 
houses. Here  large  brazen  fountains  were  boil- 
ing over  a  wood  fire  on  the  hearth ;  and  teal  or 
pigeons  were  roasting  in  a  cylinder  (like  a 
candle-box)  against  a  fire  in  the  wall  on  the 
right.  Behind  was  a  row  of  stoves  with  char- 
coal fires  where  the  process  of  stewing  was  going 
on.  A  dresser  in  the  middle.  The  roof  had 
its  black  rafters.  A  board  with  nails  and 
figures  is  against  the  wall,  where  each  inmate 
when  he  goes  out  hangs  the  key  of  his  apart- 
ment, under  its  correspondent  number,  the  key 
having  the  number  of  the  door  on  a  brass  plate 
attached  to  the  handle ;  the  host  is  then  re- 
sponsible for  all  which  is  entrusted  to  his 
care. 

So  much  business,  so  much  cooking,  and  so 
much  good  nature  I  never  saw  in  one  place 
before.  We  were  all  there.  The  Landlady,  a 
compleat  Flemish  figure,  fat  and  good  tem- 
pered, with  that  familiarity  which  we  want  in 
England,  shewed  us  her  children,  and  produced 
a  chalk  di'awing  which  her  son  Louis  Souriez 

[       18       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


(a  boy  only  8  years  old,  who  studies  at  the 
School   of  design),   had  just   finished  for  his 
father's  birthday.     It  was  a  head  of  St.  Peter ; 
for  a  student  of  ripe  years  it  would  have  been 
a  fine  production,  and  for  one  so  young,  Mr. 
Nash  pronounced  it  almost  miraculous.     The 
Landlady  might  indeed  well  be  proud  of  her 
family — I  have  seldom  seen  a  finer.     Annette, 
the  eldest,  reminded  me  painfully  of  what  Nancy 
Tonkin  was,  so  exceedingly  strong  was  the  like- 
ness,  both   in   size,   features,   and    expression. 
Tho'   not   more   than  fourteen,  she  keeps  the 
accounts  of  the   house,  a  business  which  too 
probably  may  cost  her  her  health,  for  she  can 
rarely  sit  down  to  it  till  after  midnight.     The 
youngest,  about  three  years  old,  a  little  bigger 
than  my  Isabel,  is  a  beautiful  creature  ;  and  all 
have  the  same  beauty  and  the  same  intelligent 
cast  of  countenance.     The  work  of  preparing 
supper  for  the  public  table  went  on  while  we 
were  seeing  the  drawings  and  playing  with  the 
child ;  no  person  was  disturbed  or  hindered  in 
their  business ;  and  it   was   evident   that   our 
presence  seemed  rather  to  give  pleasure  than 
otherwise.    An  English  cook  would  have  driven 

I       19       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

us  out  with  the  ladle ;  or  indeed  we  should  as 
soon  have  exposed  ourselves  to  the  yard-mastifTs 
teeth  as  to  her  tongue. 

The  supper  was  excellent.  Beer  is  placed  on 
the  table  in  half-gallon  decanters.  The  custom 
here  seems  to  be  that  the  first  course  should 
consist  of  white  meats,  the  second  of  brown. 
The  porcelain  is  coarse  and  thick. 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Sunday^  Sept,  24. 

During  the  night  the  dog  got  into  the  fowl- 
house  and  killed  thirteen  fowls ;  but  no  loss 
was  sustained,  for  they  served  for  dinner  and 
supper  just  as  well.  The  mode  of  cookery 
here  makes  any  mutilation  or  disfigurement  of 
no  consequence. 

Our  beds  were  like  the  pictures  in  Quarles' 
Emblems,  and  as  these  are  originally  Flemish, 
the  fashion  has  not  been  altered  during  the 
last  two  hundred  years.  There  are  no  bed- 
posts, and  the  curtains,  which  are  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  feet  high,  fall  sloping  in  a  tentlike 
shape  from  a  sort  of  canopy  suspended  from 

[       20       ] 


the  ceiling.  They  are  of  brown  Holland,  or 
something  resembling  it.  The  bedstead  is  a 
kind  of  box,  rather  more  than  a  foot  deep, 
filled  with  a  straw  mattrass,  upon  which  the 
other  mattrasses  are  laid  as  usual.  And  the 
bolster  is  half  as  large  as  the  bed,  a  most 
uneasy  fashion  for  those  who  have  not  been 
used  to  it. 

At  breakfast  boiling  milk  was  brought  with 
the  tea.  Cream  appears  not  to  be  in  use.  The 
bread  and  butter  are  the  best  possible,  but  the 
butter  is  not  presented  in  so  neat  a  form  as  it  is 
in  the  West  of  England ;  it  seems  to  be  scooped 
from  the  pot  with  a  fluted  spoon.  The  urn  is 
heated  by  charcoal  in  its  bottom,  where  there 
are  holes  to  admit  the  air. 

We  went  to  the  Cathedral  with  Annette  for 
our  guide.  The  outside  is  imposing  for  its  mag- 
nitude rather  than  for  its  architecture  ;  within, 
tho'  it  has  been  injured  by  white-washing, 
it  is  exceedingly  fine.  Large  stone  images  of 
Apostles  and  Saints  (of  a  better  colour)  are 
placed  one  against  each  pillar,  about  half-way 
up,  not  in  niches,  but  standing  out  upon  a 
Gothic  pedestal,  so  that  the  whole  figure  comes 

[       21        ] 


■ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

forward.  Before  each  a  large  gilt  candlestick 
branches  out  from  the  column  below,  but  these 
were  not  lighted.  The  church,  notwithstanding 
its  great  size,  was  well  filled,  and  certainly  by  a 
devout  congregation.  Many  had  chairs,  and 
many  were  kneeling.  While  the  great  body  of 
the  assembly  were  attending  High  Mass,  others 
were  offering  their  lateral  devotions  at  particular 
altars,  of  which  (as  usual)  the  Church  is  full. 
The  organ  is  exceedingly  powerful.  The  ser- 
vice seemed  in  truth  to  fill  the  Church.  There 
was  nothing  cold  and  meagre ;  the  eye  and  the 
ear  were  satisfied ;  the  incense  delighted  another 
sense,  and  my  prayer  (for  I  also  prayed)  was 
that  it  might  please  God  to  enlighten  this  people 
in  His  own  good  time,  and  that  they  might  not 
(as  too  surely  we  have  done)  pluck  up  the  flower 
with  the  weed,  the  wheat  with  the  tares.  After 
mass,  the  Belgian  soldiers  marched  in  by  beat 
of  drum  to  a  mass  of  their  own.  Never  did  I 
hear  anything  so  dizzying,  so  terrific,  so  terrible 
as  the  sound — no  fife  or  other  instrument  to 
attemper  it.  It  could  not  be  imitated  in  a 
theatre,  for  no  theatre  could  give  the  dreadful 
reverberation  which  the  arches  here  produced 

[        22        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


on  every  side.  Two  men  with  axes  stood  near 
the  altar,  and  the  soldiers,  who  were  drawn  up 
in  military  order,  shouldered,  presented  arms, 
and  grounded  at  the  elevation.  Mr.  Nash  was 
almost  overpowered  by  the  stunning  sound,  and 
he  was  shocked  at  the  military  display,  which 
to  his  feelings  was  thus  irreverently  introduced. 
It  impressed  me  differently,  and  I  felt  what 
such  a  ceremony  would  be  worth  in  a  besieged 
town. 

This  day  fortnight  we  were  at  the  little 
Chapel  of  St.  John's,  so  wildly  situated  on  the 
fell  between  the  Vale  of  St.  John's  and  Nathdale. 
What  a  contrast  both  between  the  places  of 
worship  and  the  service ! 

Robbed  as  this  Cathedral  has  been  of  its 
riches,  it  was  not  apparent  to  the  eye  that  any- 
thing was  wanting  in  its  proud  display  ;  yet  the 
lamps,  candlesticks,  censers,  &c.,  were  once  of 
accordant  splendour.  The  monuments  and  the 
pictures  might  delight  and  employ  antiquaries 
and  artists  for  many  days.  There  is  a  picture 
of  St.  Barbara's  martyrdom,  by  a  pupil  of  David, 
who  took  his  sister  for  the  Saint  and  a  butcher 
for  the  murderer.      He  might  with  perfect  pro- 

[       23       ] 


m 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


priety  have  taken  his  master  in  that  character. 
It  is  of  no  great  merit;   but  St.  Barbara,  or 
Holy  Barbara,  as  an  English  or  Irish  Catholic 
who  volunteered  some  information  concerning 
her  to  me  in  the  Church  called  her,  seems  to  be 
in  great  fashion  at  Bruges.    I  bought  her  Litany 
in  Flemish  from  a  nice  old  woman  who  sold 
such  things  in  the  Church.    She  had  also  waxen 
legs,  arms,  &c.,  for  sale,  and  plenty  of  such  offer- 
ings were  hanging  up  in  proof  of  the  popular 
devotion.      St.  Barbara   is   the  advocate  here 
against   sudden   death,   and    her    Litany   says 
nothing  about  her  virtue  as  a  conductor  in  a 
thunderstorm.     Printed  notifications  of  recent 
deaths  are  affixed  to  the  Church  doors,  request- 
ing prayers  for  the  deceased.    Over  some  of  the 
tombs  on  the  outside  there  are  crucifixes  large 
as  life.     One  family  burial-place,  Annette  told 
us,  was  immediately  opposite  the  house  of  the 
family  to  which  it  belongs. 

We  went  next  to  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame, 
which  is  finer  than  the  Cathedral  externally, 
but  less  impressive  within.  Here  we  were  shown 
the  tombs  of  Charles  the  Bold  and  Marie  his 
daughter,  by   the  very  man  who   during  the 

[       «4       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

Revolution  saved  them  from  destruction  at  the 
imminent  hazard  of  his  life.     Several  writers 
have  related  the  fact,  but  without  mentioning 
his  name,  which  is  not  to  their  own  credit.    He 
wrote  it,  at  my  request,  in  my  memorandum - 
book,  PieiTe  De  Zitter.    This  interesting  person 
is  a  man  of  singular  benignant  countenance, 
with  dark  eyes,  tall,  and  rather  thin.     He  took 
the  tombs  to  pieces  during  the  night  and  buried 
them.    For  this  he  was  proscribed,  and  a  reward 
of  2000  francs  set  upon  his  head,  but  he  fled  into 
Holland.     Buonaparte,  after  his  maniage  into 
the  Austrian  family,  gave  him  one  thousand 
and  expended  ten  in  ornamenting  the  chapel 
wherein  they  had  been  replaced.     But  it  has 
not  been  fitted  up  with  any  taste  or  feeling; 
the  roof  is  blue,  with  stars  of  gold,  and  the 
windows  of  stained  glass,  poor  of  their  kind. 
The  monuments  themselves   are  rather  costly 
than  beautiful — gilt  brass  ramifications  upon  a 
black  touchstone  ground,  bearing  emblazoned 
shields.     But  few  tombs  are  more  interesting  for 
the  thoughts  and  recollections  which  they  call 
forth.  Louis  15th,  upon  seeing  them  in  1745,  ex- 
claimed, "  Behold  the  cradle  of  all  former  wars  T' 

C       25       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

Mr.  Nash  pointed  out  to  me  in  one  of  the 
public  buildings  a  figure  of  Justice,  with  wolves 
lying  peaceably  on  one  side  and  sheep  on  the 
other,  and  with  a  plum-line  instead  of  a  balance 
in  her  hand — a  better  emblem,  the  balance  being 
so  easily  deranged.  The  image  of  Justice  over 
the  entrance  to  Dublin  Castle  always  had  the 
scales  unequal,  but  Mr.  Richman  sent  a  man 
to  make  holes  in  them  and  let  the  rain  water 
out. 

The  Town  House,  and  the  adjoining  Chaple 
of  the  Holy  Blood,  must  have  been  veiy  fine, 
before  the  former  was  mutilated  and  the  latter 
destroyed  by  the  rabble,  when  the  revolutionary 
madness  was  at  its  height.  A  little  turret 
which  remains  is  singularly  picturesque.  But 
the  whole  city  is  one  series  of  pictures.  All  the 
houses  are  decorated  on  the  outside ;  all  have 
an  air  of  undilapidated  antiquity ;  little  or 
nothing  has  been  £idded ;  but  in  the  domestic 
buildings  there  is  as  little  appearance  of  demo- 
lition or  decay.  Everything  was  well  built  and 
is  well  preserved.  In  those  houses  which  are 
not  faced  with  brick,  the  prevailing  colour 
seems  to  be  white  with  green  windows,  a  combi- 

[        26        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

nation  which  is  very  pleasing.  The  bricks  for 
the  ornamental  parts  are  made  in  moulds  to  the 
form  required,  and  they  have  taken  a  good 
weather  stain.  The  ornamental  parts  of  every 
house,  and  the  abundance  of  large  windows, 
show  that  wealth  abounded  when  they  were 
built,  and  however  wealth  may  have  declined, 
the  habitations  are  still  light,  airy,  chearful, 
spacious,  commodious  as  human  dwellings  ought 
to  be.  The  general  impression  is  something 
such  as  Oxford  and  Cambridge  produce — only 
Bruges  carries  you  back  more  entirely  to  former 
times.  Mrs.  Vardon  happily  said  you  might 
expect  to  see  heads  set  in  the  ruffs  of  Eliza- 
beth's day  looking  out  of  such  windows.  The 
whole  city  is  in  keeping,  and  it  has  one  especial 
charm  which  heightens  all  the  rest ;  as  there 
are  no  appearances  of  great  opulence,  so  are 
there  none  of  squalid  poverty ;  poor  houses 
there  are,  but  no  wretched  ones — no  sties  of 
filth  and  brutality  and  misery;  poor  people, 
but  none  of  those  objects  who  make  you 
shudder  and  tremble  for  a  society  in  the  bosom 
of  which  such  wretches  are  multiplied.  All  are 
well  housed,  all  sufficiently  even  when  meanly 

[        27        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


clothed.  There  is  an  almost  universal  appear- 
ance of  competence  in  a  degi-ee  which  I  have 
never  seen  elsewhere.  And  the  inhabitants  are 
a  handsome  race. 

We  went  up  the  singular  tower  of  that  edifice 
which  forms  one  side  of  the  great  square. 
People  live  in  it  whose  business  it  is  to  give  the 
alarm  in  case  of  fire.  I  should  have  copied  a 
poem  in  Flemish,  which  is  in  the  upper  room, 
wherein  Turris  loquitur ^  if  some  parts  had  not 
been  effaced.  The  chimes  played  while  we  were 
there,  but  the  noise  of  the  machinery,  though 
perhaps  hardly  audible  below,  and  certainly  not 
heard  at  some  little  distance,  compleatly  over- 
powered the  music.  There  are  two  bells  hei-e 
so  large  that  to  my  remembrance  Tom  of  Lin- 
coln does  not  appear  larger.  The  tower  is 
equally  remarkable  for  its  height  and  construc- 
tion. It  seems  originally  to  have  ended  at  less 
than  a  third  of  its  present  elevation.  From 
thence  a  second  stage  is  carried  up  in  the  same 
square  form,  and  from  the  second  a  third,  which 
is  either  octagonal  or  polygonal,  and  appears  to 
be  top-heavy,  as  if  it  widened  towards  the 
summit. 

[       28        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


At  the  comer  of  the  house,  which  is  now  the 
Academy  of  Design,  there  is  a  very  grotesque 
figure,  the  size  of  life ;  it  is  a  white  bear,  in 
boots,  standing  upright,  with  the  collar  of  some 
order  round  his  neck,  a  shield  on  his  breast,  and 
an  inscription  underneath,  written  in  the  fashion 
of  that  most  provoking  absurdity,  the  chrono- 
gram, thus : 

1417 
T'LUYster  LYCK 
toUrnoY.  -  genootsChap 
Van  Den  Witten  Weir 
WIert  VernleUWt 
In  De  poorters  Logle 

I  believe  this  means  that  the  illustrious  Tourney 
fellowship  of  the  White  Bear  has  been  renewed 
and  holds  its  meetings  in  the  porter's  lodge. 
The  date  is  not  worth  decyphering,  nor  perhaps 
if  I  had  understood  the  words  while  I  was  copy- 
ing them,  should  I  have  thought  them  worth 
the  trouble  of  copying,  especially  as  a  crowd  of 
boys  got  round  me.  The  portrait  of  Van  Eyck 
is  within,  the  supposed  inventor  of  painting  in 
oil.  He  was  buried  at  Bruges,  and  his  epitaph 
is  now  placed  under  his  picture. 

[       29       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

Hie  jacet  eximia  clarus  virtute  Joannes, 

In  quo  picturae  gratia  mira  fuit. 
Spirantes  formas,  et  humum  florentibus  herbis 

Pinxit,  et  ad  vivum  quodlibet  egit  opus 
Quippe  illi  Phidias  et  cedeve  dabat  Appelles 

Arta  quoque  inferior  cui  Polycretus  erat. 
Ipse  est  qui  primus  docuit  miscere  colores, 

Hos  oleo  exprimere  et  reddere  perpetuos 
Pictores  stupuere  vivum,  stupuere  vapertum 

Quo  perseveran  est  sine  fine  color. 
Cru deles  igitur,  crudeles  dicite  Parcas, 

Quae  tantum  nobis  cripuere  vivum. 
Actum  sit  lacrymis,  incommutabile  fatum 

Vivat  ut  in  coelis  soepe  precare  Deum. 

HoC  ita  restaUraVIT  aCaDeMIoe  zeaLUs. 


The  pictures  in  this  Academy  are  of  little 
value. 

At  the  table  d'hote  we  met  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Locker.  He  had  been  Lord  Exmouth''s  secre- 
tary and  called  on  me  last  year  soon  after  his 
marriage  ivith  this  lady  (a  daughter  of  Jona- 
than Bouchers),  the  beauty  of  Cumberland. 
Locker,  by  the  testimony  of  €dl  who  know  him, 
is  a  very  accomplished,  excellent  and  obliging 
man.      He    recognised    Nash    as     an    Indian 

[        30        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


acquaintance  and  showed  us  a  book  full  of 
sketches  which  equally  proved  his  industry  and 
skill.  His  advice  was  that  we  should  proceed 
from  Waterloo  to  Namur,  and  so  along  the 
Meuse  to  Liege,  and  he  especially  recommended 
that  we  should  on  no  account  omit  seeing  the 
quarries  at  Maestricht.  He  has  a  sister  in  a 
Nunnery  here,  where  she  has  professed. 

We  met  the  boys  of  the  Lyceum  ;  they  have 
a  dress  much  like  the  bluecoat  boys. 


Monday,  Sept.  25. 

Our  bill  amounted  to  64  francs. 

After  breakfast  we  embarked  for  Ghent  in  a 
Trekschuit,  which  has  obtained  the  reputation 
of  being  both  the  best  and  cheapest  public 
conveyance  in  the  world.  The  scene  at  the 
point  of  embarkation,  by  the  iron  gates  at  the 
end  of  the  canal,  was  delightful  for  any  one 
who  has  a  painter's  eye.  Vast  numbers  of 
people  were  arriving,  many  in  carriages  of 
sundry  odd  forms:  the  most  remarkable  of 
these  vehicles  was  made  entirely  of  black 
leather,  having  a  hole  at   which  to  creep  in 

[       31       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

and  out,  instead  of  a  door.  It  was  of  venerable 
antiquity.  An  English  chariot  which  we  took 
on  board  was  some  nuisance  by  the  room  which 
it  occupied,  and  the  persons  to  whom  it  belonged 
were  no  addition  to  the  society  of  the  pas- 
sengers. There  was  a  bloody  hand  on  the  arms. 
They  were  said  to  be  Mr.  Peel  and  Sir  Charles 
Saxton,  on  their  duelling  expedition,  and  so 
they  proved  to  be,  tho'  I  did  not  recollect  the 
latter,  neither  did  he  recognise  me.  They  sate 
either  in  the  carriage  or  on  the  box  the  greater 
part  of  the  day,  and  when  they  alighted  they  kept 
at  the  head  of  the  vessel  aloof  from  everybody. 
The  Trekschuit  has  a  canopy  at  the  stern, 
somewhat  of  a  bell  shape,  which  must  certainly 
impede  its  way  when  going  against  the  wind  : 
on  the  top  of  this  is  a  painted  plume  of  feathers. 
There  are  two  cabins  below  and  between  them, 
kitchens,  ccrmmodities  (the  word  is  a  commodious 
one),  and  heaven  knows  what  beside.  It  was 
full  of  paissengers,  of  whom  a  great  proportion 
were  English.  The  Vardons  were  there.  A 
half-cast  man,  travelling  with  a  lady  whom  I 
supposed  to  be  his  wife  for  the  time  being, 
contrived  to  enter  into  conversation  with  me, 

[       32       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


and  let  me  know  that  he  had  been  a  pupil  of 
Tilbrooke's   at   Cambridge.     He   was  a  well- 
informed  person ;  and  I  agreed  with  him  per- 
fectly upon  the  injustice  with  which  men  of  his 
colour  are  treated,  and  the  gross  impolicy.     He 
was  the  first,  he  said,  who  had  been  allowed  to 
practise  at  the  bar ;  this  must  mean  the  Indian 
bar,  for  I  know  of  no  law  or  custom  which 
could  prevent  him  from  practising  in  England. 
(I  afterwards  learnt  from  Wordsworth  that  his 
name  is  Eton.)     Edward   Blore  was  there,  a 
young  artist  of  great  promise ;  he   had  been 
fellow-passenger  with  us  from  Ramsgate ;  and 
Ensign  Sargent,  son  of  an  Irish  member— for 
Waterford,  I  believe.     This  gentleman  told  us 
an  Irish  anecdote  quite  worthy  of  preservation. 
A    man    was   brought    before    his   father   for 
having  been  one  of  the  most  active  persons  in 
a  terrible  riot,  taken  in  the  fact.     Nevertheless 
he  protested  he  was  as  innocent  as  the  babe 
unborn.     As  he  was  passing  that  way,  he  said, 
thinking  of  nothing  at  all,  he  saw  a  number  of 
people  fighting,   upon   which   he  grasped   his 
shillelah  and  ran  among  them,  saying,  "  God 
grant  that  I  may  take  the  right  side !  '^  and  this 

[       33       ]  c 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETH  ERLANDS 


was  all  the  share  he  had  in  it,  being  perfectly 
innocent  of  any  concern  in  the  quarrel,  and 
indeed  not  knowing  what  it  was. 

One  passenger,  hearing  me  express  an  opinion 
in  favour  of  the  East  India  Missionaries,  made 
up  to  me  and  let  me  know  that  he  was  a 
Bible  Society  man  from  Ratcliffe  Highway. 
I  believe  another  day  would  have  made  us 
acquainted  with  the  history  of  everybody  on 

board. 

The  scene  where  we  embarked  was  very  beau- 
tiful :  garden  cultivation  and  country  houses — 
that  is,  subm-ban  retreats ;  a  swan  plying  about 
the  Trekschuit  and  looking  as  usual  to  be  fed 
by  the  passengers ;  the  water  alive  with  fish, 
water-lillies  (a  rare  sight  on  navigable  waters, 
but  these  are  perfectly  still,  and  the  canal  is  of 
such  an  age  that  nature  has  made  it  com- 
pletely her  own) ;  and  Bruges  with  its  majestic 
towers  to  compleat  the  picture.  The  weather 
too  was  as  joyous  as  heart  could  wish.  We 
started  at  forty  minutes  after  nine,  nine  being 
the  stated  hour,  the  wind  was  against  us,  and 
the  rate  of  towing  from  three  miles  an  hour  to 
three  and  a  half.     The  country  for  some  dis- 

[       34       ] 


tance  had  the  same  character  of  fertility,  in- 
dustry  and    beauty,    but   at    length    we    got 
between  high  banks  which  obstructed  all  view, 
except  of  the  long   straight   line   before   and 
behind  generally  bordered  with  willows.     No 
corn   or  hay   in   stacks,   all   I   suppose   being 
housed,    many   stacks   of  brushwood,    in   such 
quantity  indeed  as   to  explain  how  the  trees 
are  kept  down  in  their  growth ;  very  few  cattle, 
and   what   there   are  seemed    to   be   tethered, 
because  of  the  want  of  hedges ;  very  few  sheep, 
and  scarcely  any  swine.    I  am  inclined  to  think 
that  there  are  no  field  paths  from  village  to 
village  or  house  to  house ;  perhaps  the  ditches 
and  rigid  economy  of  gi-ound  will  not  allow  of 
them.      But   here   and   there   straight   narrow 
lanes,  between  lines  of  willows,  have  a  charm  of 
their  own,  such  as  I  have  felt  near  Oxford ;  and 
such   as   the   Willow   Walk    between    Tothill 
Fields  and  Chelsea  may  have  had  when  Aaron 
Hill  expatiated  upon  the  rural  beauties  there- 
abouts.    There  was  something  very  singular  in 
the  silence  and  solitude  of  the  landscape,  for 
though  the  agriculture  proved  the  existence  of 
an  ample  and  active  population,  we  saw  very 

[       35       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


few  people,  and  none  whatever  in  the  fields ; 
only  a  few  stray  travellers. 

It  proved  to  be  a  Kermis  or  fair  day.  In  one 
place  a  party  of  women  were  seated  before  the 
door,  playing  cards  in  the  sun  ;  and  in  a  village 
by  which  we  passed  there  were  booths  for  drink 
and  gingerbread,  and  music  and  dancing  in  the 
houses.  In  some  parts,  where  the  banks  are 
high  and  the  course  of  the  canal  not  straight, 
pleasing  landscapes,  tho'  very  confined,  are 
formed  by  the  slope  of  the  dam,  a  cottage  or 
two  on  the  top,  and  the  trees.  The  dam  is 
often,  perhaps  generally,  made  in  two  shelves  or 
steps,  like  the  first  and  second  of  a  Mexican  Cu, 
and  there  are  frequent  arches  under  it  to  com- 
municate with  ditches  on  the  other  side,  some- 
times, but  I  think  not  always,  with  sluices. 
When  we  met  another  vessel,  or  wanted  to  have 
a  bridge  wheeled  round  for  our  passage,  the 
man  at  the  helm  either  blew  a  pocket  whistle 
or  rung  a  bell,  or  set  up  a  Flemish  halloo. 

We  had  an  excellent  dinner,  included  in  the 
fare  of  five  franks  a  head. 

Passed   some   barges   laden   with    the  most 
offensive  of  all  manure,  for  nothing,  it  seems, 

[       36       ] 


from  which  profit  can  be  extracted  is  wasted  in 
Flanders.  Before  I  discovered  whence  the 
intolerable  stench  proceeded,  the  Flemish  gold- 
finders  were  gi-eatly  amused  at  seeing  me  hold 
my  nose.  We  went  by  some  good  country- 
houses  with  ornamented  gi^ounds  ;  they  are 
genemlly  white,  with  green  windows.  Two  of 
these  villas  were  shut  up.  The  country  near 
Ghent  is  less  beautiful  than  about  Bruges,  but 
the  towers  indicated  the  former  wealth  and 
dignity  of  the  city  which  we  were  approaching. 
When  we  reached  the  quay  it  was  crowded 
with  spectators.  Some  thousands  certainly  had 
assembled,  as  if  all  the  idle  part  of  the  popu- 
lation regarded  the  arrival  of  the  Trekschuit  as 
a  sight,  and  were  waiting  for  it.  Mr.  Vardon, 
who  knew  what  a  scene  of  confusion  would  be 
occasioned  by  the  rush  of  boys  and  porters  con- 
tending for  luggage,  arranged  the  commissariat 
part  of  the  business  well.  I  carried  off  the 
ladies  in  a  coach,  and  the  baggage  followed  upon 
a  hand-cart,  he  and  Koster  conducting  it.  It 
was  about  seven  o'clock  when  we  reached  the 
Hotel  de  Flandres.  Most  of  the  English  pas- 
sengers learnt  where  we  were  going,  and  followed 

C       37       ] 


JOU  RN  AL    OF    A    TOUR 

us,  but  few  of  them  could  obtain  room.  Mrs. 
V^ardon  had  been  here  before  and  knew  the  land- 
lady, so  that  she  secured  beds  for  our  united 
party.  The  public  room  is  gaily  fitted  up  with 
paper  representing  East  Indian  scenery,  and 
good  of  its  kind — a  sort  of  panorama,  which 
reminded  Mr.  Nash  of  the  country  wherein  he 
had  spent  so  many  years.  Supt  at  the  table 
cThote^  where  some  fine  people,  women  as  well 
as  men,  came  after  the  play. 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Tuesday^  Sept.  26. 

The  King  of  France's  suite  were  at  this  hotel. 
The  landlord  spoke  of  the  King's  apathy  in  a 
manner  which  implied  much  indignation,  though 
he  expressed  none.  "He  ate  well  and  drank 
well,''  were  his  words,  "  while  everything  was  at 
stake."  When  the  officer  arrived  with  tidings 
of  the  victory  the  King  was  asleep,  and  his 
attendants  said  that  he  must  not  be  dis- 
turbed ;  but  Lord ,  who  brought  the  news, 

insisted   upon   seeing  him  immediately.      The 
Prince  of  Orange  has  won  the  hearts  of  the 

[       38       ] 


people  by  the  part  he  bore  at  Waterloo.  He 
is  a  brave  gar^cm^  they  say,  and  they  frankly 
add  that  they  care  not  how  soon  his  father  may 
please  to  die  and  make  way  for  him.  A  boy 
here  was  quite  shocked  when  Mrs.  Vardon, 
forming  her  opinion  from  a  portrait,  observed 
that  the  Prince  was  like  his  Mother.  "Ah,  non, 
madame,  elle  est  si  vilaine,  elle  est  si  laide!'''* 
He  could  not  bear  that  his  hero  should  not  be 
thought  beautiful  as  well  as  brave.  His  wound 
tells  greatly  in  his  favour.  The  wish  here  is 
that  he  may  marry  an  English  Princess,  not  a 
Russian,  as  is  now  talked  of.  Our  Landlord 
says  that  they  can  never  do  enough  for  the 
English.  This  place  was  in  the  utmost  alarm  on 
the  sixteenth  and  the  two  succeeding  days.  He 
had  sent  off  part  of  his  property  and  had  packed 
up  all  he  could  for  removal,  being  certain  that 
if  the  French  were  victorious  his  house  would 
be  marked  for  pillage.  Fear  made  his  wife  so 
ill  that  she  took  to  her  bed,  and  he  says  that  if 
the  allies  had  been  defeated  he  is  sure  she  would 
have  died.  Even  the  joy  of  security  did  not 
restore  her  at  once;  and  when  the  wounded 
were  brought  here  she  sate  the  whole  day  bol- 

[       39        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


t    ? 


stered  up  in  bed,  tearing  linen  for  bandages  and 
scraping  lint.  Wine  and  water  for  the  wounded 
was  mixed  in  the  street  by  pailfuUs.  Lord 
Uxbridge  was  lodged  in  an  adjoining  house, 
where  he  could  be  quieter  than  in  this,  and  his 
food  was  taken  from  hence. 

Ghent,  tho'  a  fine  city,  is  far  less  impres- 
sive than  Bruges,  a  great  part  being  more 
modem,  and  all  that  is  modem  proportionately 
in  worse  taste.  The  Cathedral  is  not  such  an 
edifice  as  might  be  expected  in  a  place  of  such 
antiquity  and  ancient  opulence.  The  tower  is 
not  remarkable,  and  the  body  of  the  building 
was  built  in  a  mean  age,  the  former  one  having 
been  destroyed  by  lightning  in  1641.  The 
crypt,  however,  is  curious.  This  is  as  old  as 
the  days  of  Charlemagne,  and  service  is  still 
performed  in  its  chapels  ;  but  there  is  a  certain 
air  of  neglect  as  well  as  of  dampness  there  which 
it  is  melancholy  to  observe.  The  pulpit  is  a 
fine  thing,  with  marble  statues  about  it  and  a 
marble  tree  with  a  gilt  serpent  twisted  about 
its  branches,  more  probably  representing  the 
brazen  serpent,  I  think,  than  the  tempter.  An 
antiquary  would  find  much  to  interest  him  in 

[       40       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

. ^ 

the  pictures  in  the  crypt.  The  most  remarkable 
is  that  of  a  Bishop,  on  his  knees,  reading  these 
words:  "It  is  appointed  to  all  men  to  die," 
upon  a  scroll  which  Death  is  presenting  to  him. 
The  skeleton,  I  know  not  why,  is  gilt,  the  rest 
of  the  monument  being  marble.  Our  cicerone 
told  us  that  this  bishop  was  put  to  death  at 
Madrid  about  the  year  1660,  and  that  the  inten- 
tion of  the  artist  was  to  express  that  he  resigned 
himself  to  his  fate  there  as  willingly  as  if  it  had 
been  in  his  own  country.  I  believe  the  history 
as  little  as  the  explanation.* 

The  Church  of  St.  James,  here  called  St. 
Jacob,  struck  us  as  an  immense  building,  more 
important  in  size  than  St.  Bavon''s,  which  is  the 
Cathedral,  but  upon  entering  it  appears  smaller 
than  we  had  expected  to  find  it.      Perhaps  this 

*  The  truth  is  that  the  sculptor  borrowed  the  con- 
ception  from  the  monument  of  Cardinal  Erardus  a 
Marca,  who  died  1538,  and  was  buried  in  St.  Lam- 
bert's at  Liege,  of  which  place  he  was  bishop. 
•' Visitur  inibi  statua  ejus  aenea,  ad  vivum  (ut  volunt) 
afformata,  et  genibus  nixa ;  cui  adstat  imago  Mortis, 
sic  ut  fieri  solet  expressa,  cum  brevissimo  isto  sed 
seito  admodum  epitaphio ;  Erardus  a  Marca,  mortem 
habens  prae  oculis,  vivus  posuit. 

[       41        ] 


!l 


i 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


deception  may  be  accounted  for  by  the  want  of 
any  decoration  without  and  the  profusion  of  it 
within. 

I  should  not  have  guessed,  after  walking  over 
the  town,  that  the  bridges  were  so  numerous ; 
they  are,  however,  more  than  three  hundred, 
and  the  city,  by  its  rivers  and  canals,  is  divided 
into  six  and  twenty  islands.  The  bridges  are 
all  of  wood  and  add  nothing  to  the  beauty  of 
the  place,  but  it  seems  they  have  added  freely 
to  the  insecurity  of  the  inhabitants,  and  that  in 
a  frightful  manner.  It  has  been  a  recent  prac- 
tice for  villains  to  stretch  ropes  across  them  in 
the  dusk  of  the  evening,  and  tripping  up  the 
passengei-s  by  this  means,  rob  and  murder  them 
and  throw  their  bodies  into  the  water.  On  this 
account  last  year  centinels  were  ordered  to  be 
stationed  at  the  bridges,  but  we  saw  none,  and 
the  city  is  ill-lighted.  In  this  respect,  there- 
fore, the  police  is  bad,  and  yet  no  city  stands  in 
need  of  a  more  vigilant  one,  morals  here  being 
so  abominably  depraved.  There  are  at  the 
time  940  persons  in  the  house  of  correction. 
The  doors  of  the  theatre  are  beset  by  boys  in 
the  regular  exercise  of  their  business  as  pimps. 

[       42        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

One  of  these  young  wretches  accosted  Mr.  Var- 
don  l£ist  year  and  offered  to  conduct  him  to  his 
sister ;  he  had  introduced  eleven  English  gentle- 
men to  her,  he  said,  and  they  had  all  been  tres 
content  with  her.  These  imps  of  the  Devil  will 
sometimes  make  other  propositions,  for  which 
an  Englishman  in  his  own  country,  if  he  did  not 
deliver  them  over  to  justice,  would  send  them 
as  far  on  the  road  to  the  Devil  as  a  kick  would 
cany  them. 

I  observed  in  many  houses  reflecting  cameras 
fixed  to  the  windows  of  the  first  floor — sl  pretty 
device  for  bringing  the  moving  picture  of  the 
street  into  the  apartment.  This,  I  believe,  is 
very  usual  in  these  parts.  The  farriers  have  an 
iron  bar,  to  which  the  hoi-se's  leg  is  fastened 
when  it  is  shod.  Others  have  a  more  formid- 
able apparatus — a  frame  before  the  door,  into 
which  the  horse  enters,  and  being  confined  there 
as  in  a  cage,  is  unable  to  move  in  any  direction. 
The  hoi-ses  are  remarkably  large  and  fine ;  it 
was  not  without  reason  that  the  Flanders  mares 
had  their  reputation  in  former  times.  Few 
creatures  seem  to  be  exempt  from  labour  here  ; 
the  dogs  are  commonly  employed  in  draught, 

[       43       ] 


iff 
I  if 


r 

I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


I 


and  the  poor  things  labour  with  a  willingness 
of  exertion  which  I  was  sorry  to  see  overtasked 
sometimes,  and  often  not  well  applied.  Four 
very  large  bull-dogs,  abreast,  were  drawing  a 
butcher^s  cart,  and  one  cart  I  saw  drawn  by  a 
goat.  In  general,  they  use  long,  low  trough- 
shaped  carts,  which  rattle  along  the  streets  like 
cannon. 

I  picked  up  an  Italian  poem  upon  the  taking 
of  Constantinople  by  the  Latins — Ulmperio 
Vendicato,  by  Antonio  Caraccio,  Barone  di 
Corano.  But  Ghent  is  a  bad  place  for  finding 
books  ;  excepting  new  French  publications,  it  is 
surprising,  considering  the  size  and  wealth  and 
old  importance  of  the  city,  how  few  are  to  be 
found.  Some,  however,  I  bought  of  the  first 
bookseller  there,  G.  de  Busscher  and  fils,  Place 
de  la  Calandre :  very  obliging  persons.  They 
live  in  a  house  which,  if  it  were  in  London, 
would  be  thought  a  desirable  residence  for  one 
of  the  first  nobility,  and  they  presented  us 
grapes  from  the  garden.  Here  I  saw  some 
music  called  the  Battle  of  Waterloo.  The 
Battle  of  Waterloo  set  to  music  !  I  could  not 
help   observing  to   M.   de   Busscher  that  the 

[       44       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


music  which  had  been  heai'd  upon  the  field  was 
of  a  very  different  kind.  Mrs.  Vardon  gave 
Edith  May  a  very  beautiful  book  of  Dutch 
costumes,  which  are  exceedingly  picturesque. 
There  was  a  fine  copy  of  Houbraken's  lives  of 
the  painters,  on  which  I  laid  hands,  but 
resigned  it  to  Mr.  Nash,  who  as  an  artist  was 
better  entitled  to  become  the  possessor.  With 
what  I  purchased,  these  were  sufficient  to  make 
up  a  small  package,  which  the  bookseller 
will  consign  to  Longman's  care. 

The  Hanoverians  are  not  liked  here,  Hano- 
vauriens  they  are  called.  But  the  Prussians  are 
abominated.  We  hear  of  nothing  but  theu' 
insolence  and  brutality  ;  their  conduct  towards 
women  is  said  to  have  been  even  worse  than 
that  of  the  French.  This  it  is  to  make  nations 
military ! 

Our  Landlord  took  us  to  his  garden,  which  is 
in  the  town.  It  was  full  of  excellent  fruit,  but 
withal  so  damp  as  to  strike  one  with  an  anguish 
feeling.  Here  he  had  a  summer-house,  fitted  up 
with  a  sofa  and  some  English  prints,  and  he 
thought  this  place  a  little  Eden.  The  delight 
which  these  people  and  their  neighbours,  the 

[        46        ] 


I 
I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


Dutch,  take  in  such  gardens  and  pleasure- 
houses  is  a  pleasing  part  of  their  national 
character. 

We  went  to  the  play  in  the  evening.  The 
piece  was  called  Azemla,  or  the  Savages,  The 
principal  female  character  was  dressed  in  a 
petticoat  which  did  not  reach  the  knees,  and 
close-fitting  flesh-colour  drawers:  even  upon 
our  opera  stage  this  would  not  have  been 
endured.  The  house  was  very  ill  lit:  the 
scenery  bad  and  dirty.  The  music  was  said  to 
be  good.  I  did  not  stay  long,  but  leaving  the 
party  there,  returned  to  the  hotel,  and  sate  down 
to  my  journal,  till  they  came  home  to  the  table 
d'hote.  We  had  dined  at  it,  and  were  there- 
fore quite  ready  for  supper. 


Wednesday^  Sept,  27. 

We  ascended  the  Belfrey  in  which  Roland, 
the  great  bell,  hangs.  The  tower  does  not 
form  part  of  a  church,  but  there  is  a  prison  for 
debtors  connected  with  it.  I  do  not  remember 
any   one   in   which   the  ascent    is   more    pic- 

[       46       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

turesque.     The  stone  steps  are  so  worn  away 
by  long  use  that  they  are  now  faced  with  iron, 
and  much  care  is  required  in  descending  lest 
the  foot   should  hitch   in   these   iron   frames, 
where  a  fall  would  be  terribly  serious.     In  one 
place  near  the  top  there  is  a  long,  low,  straight 
flight  of  stone  steps  than  which  nothing  more 
dungeonish   can    be    imagined.      This    tower, 
tho'  not    the  highest   in  Ghent,  is   the  most 
remarkable  object  there,  and  it  commands  the 
whole   panorama.     The  gi-eat   bell   Roland   is 
said  to  weigh  11,000  lb.     Roland's  horn  I  sus- 
pect could  not  have  been  heard  so  far.     The 
carillons  are  above  it,  in  a  place  to  which  you 
climb  by  an  ascent    more  resembling   ladders 
than  stairs.     I  delight  in  chimes  and  quarter- 
boys,  they  are  good-natured,  chearful,  accom- 
modating devices ;  proofs  that  neither  poverty 
nor  parcimony  were  prevailing  when  they  were 
set  up.    When  Christ  Church,  Bristol  (in  which 
I  was  christened),  was  rebuilt,  my  Father,  who 
was  churchwarden  that  year,  used  his  utmost 
endeavours  to  preserve  the   quarter-boys,  and 
offered  to  subscribe  for  their  re-establishment ; 
he  had  known  them  more  than  twenty  years, 

[       47       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

and  missed  them  like  old  acquaintance.  But 
the  saving  spirit  prevailed,  and  they  who  have 
since  been  bom  in  that  parish  have  one  recol- 
lection the  less  to  attach  them  to  it.  On  the 
top  of  the  Belfrey  are  four  little  round  towers, 
one  at  each  comer,  each  ending  in  a  point  with 
its  gilt  vane.  The  dragon  on  the  summit  is 
said  to  have  been  sent  by  Count  Baldwin  9th 
from  Constantinople. 

The  Stadthouse,  which  is  near  this  tower,  is 
a  largely  stately  pile  at  the  corner  of  two 
streets,  but  the  one  front  has  been  modernized, 
about  a  century  (I  suppose)  ago,  in  a  sort  of 
Grecian  style,  which  accords  miserably  with  the 
more  characteristic  and  picturesque  architectuie 
of  the  original  building.  It  is  so  surrounded 
with  houses  that  there  is  no  obtaining  a  good 
view  of  it  from  any  point. 

I  found  a  very  intelligent  young  man  at  the 
public  library,  evidently  poor  and  studious,  in 
dirty  but  scholar-like  costume.  Upon  my  en- 
quiring how  I  could  procure  a  set  of  the  Acta 
Sanctomm  (which  was  one  object  of  my  jour- 
ney) he  proposed  to  exchange  a  set  and  other 
duplicates  in  that  collection  for  English  works 

[        48        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


which  were  wanting  there.     To  this  I  gladly 
assented,  looked  out  several  great  works  im- 
portant  to  my  pursuits,  and  was  referred  to 
M .   Venhulten  at  Brussels  as  the  person  who,, 
when  the  Mayor  should  have  given  his  consent, 
would  have  power  to  conclude  the  an-angement. 
The  young  librarian   shewed   me   with  great 
satisfaction    a    passage    in    the    Acta    where 
Napoleon  occurs  as  the  name  of  a  Devil.     It  is 
in  the  life  of  S.  Lita.     The  library  is  a  fine 
collection  containing,  no  doubt,  all   that   has 
been  saved  from  the  wreck  of  so  many  con- 
vents.     The  place   in   which   it  is   kept   was 
formerly  a  Church   (St.  Anne's).     Indeed  the 
organ  is  still  there;  and  there  are  some  pic- 
tures  in   imitation   of    bas-relief,   which   they 
resemble  so  perfectly  as  to  produce  a  provoking 
deception.     There    were    such    in    the    great 
Church,  on  each  side  the  quire,  the  first  I  had 
ever  seen.     For  painting  to  imitate  sculpture 
is  certainly  a  perversion  of  the  art ;  but  if  a 
man  so  ignorant  in  matters  of  art  may  have  an 
opinion  upon  the  subject,  I  think  these  imita- 
tions  show  that  much  more  may  be  done  in 
bas-relief  than  has  ever  been  attempted.     This 

[       49       ]  D 


I 


-% 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


is  a  favourite  notion  of  Miss  Barker's,  and  now 
I  can  understand  what  she  means  by  it. 

But  the  most  interesting  object  in  Ghent  to 
me,  and  indeed  the  most  remarkable,  is  the 
Beguineage,  which  is  the  principal  establish- 
ment of  the  order,  and  very  much  the  largest. 
It  is  at  one  end  of  the  city,  and  entirely  in- 
closed, being  indeed  a  little  town  or  world 
of  itself.  You  enter  thro'  a  gateway,  where 
there  is  a  statue  of  St.  Elizabeth  of  Hungary, 
the  patroness  of  the  institution.  The  space 
enclosed  cannot  be  less  than  the  area  of  the 
whole  town  of  Keswick  ;  but  the  Beguineage 
itself  is  unlike  almshouse,  college,  village  or 
town.  It  is  a  collection  of  contiguous  houses 
of  different  sizes,  each  with  a  small  garden  in 
front,  and  a  high,  well-built  brick  wall  inclosing 
them  all.  Upon  every  door  is  the  name,  not 
of  the  inhabitants,  but  of  the  Saint  under 
whose  protection  the  house  is  placed ;  but  there 
is  no  opening  in  the  door  thro'  which  any- 
thing can  be  seen.  There  are  several  streets 
thus  built,  with  houses  on  both  sides;  the 
silence  and  solitude  of  such  streets  may  easily 
be  imagined,  and  the  effect  is  very  singular 

[       50       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

upon  coming  from  the  busy  streets  of  Ghent. 
You  seem  to  be  in  a  different  world.  There  is 
a  large  church  within  the  inclosure ;  a  burying 
ground  in  which  there  are  no  monuments ;  a 
branch  from  one  of  the  many  rivers  or  canals 
wherewith  Ghent  is  intersected,  in  which  the 
washing  of  the  community  is  performed  from 
a  large  boat,  and  a  large  piece  of  ground 
planted  with  trees  where  the  clothes  are 
dried. 

Our  appearance  here  and  the  evident  curiosity 
with  which  we  were  perambulating  a  place 
seldom  visited  by  strangers  attracted  notice, 
and  we  were  at  length  courteously  accosted  by 
a  sister  who  proved  to  be  the  second  personage 
in  the  community.  She  showed  us  the  interior 
and  gave  us  such  explanations  as  we  desii^. 
It  is  curious  that  she  seemed  to  know  nothing 
of  the  origin  of  the  order,  nor  by  whom  it  was 
founded,  nor  could  she  refer  to  any  book  con- 
taining either  its  history  or  its  rule. 

According  to  this  lady,  there  are  about  6000 
Beguines  in  Brabant  and  Flanders,  in  which 
countries  they  are  confined :  there  are  620  resi- 
dent in  the  Beguinage.     They  were  rich  before 

[       51       ] 


ijirfiii^sa'^aiaaiifha^^ 


% 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


the  Revolution  ;  then  in  the  general  spoliation 
their  lands  were  taken  from  them  and  they  were 
commanded  to  lay  aside  their  distinctive  dress,  but 
this  mandate  was  only  obeyed  in  part,  because 
public  opinion  was  strongly  in  their  favour,  and 
they  were  of  such  manifest  utility  to  all  ranks 
that   very  few  were  disposed  to   injure  them. 
They  receive  the  sick  who  come  to  them  for 
succour,   and  they  support   as  well  as  attend 
them  as  long  as  the  case  requires  ;  they  go  out 
also  to  nurse  the  sick  where  their  services  are 
requested.      They  are  bound  by  no  vow,  and 
M.  Devolder  (this  was  the  name  of  our  obliging 
informant)  assured  us  with  an  air  of  becoming 
pride  that  no  instance  of  a  Beguine  leaving  the 
establishment    had   ever    been    known.      The 
reason  is  obvious :  the  institution  is  in  itself 
reasonable  and  useful  as  well  as  religious ;  no 
person  is  compelled  to  enter  it,  because  there  is 
no  clausure,  and  no  person  could  be  compelled 
to  stay,  and  I  suppose  their  members  are  gene- 
rally, if  not  wholly,  filled  up  by  women  who, 
when  their  youth  is  gone  by,  seek  a  retirement 
or  need  an  asylum  from  the  world.     M.  Devol- 
der herself  entered  after  the  death  of  her  hus- 

[       52       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

band.     The  property  which  a  Beguine  brings 
with  her  reverts  to  her  heirs-at-law. 

During  the  Revolution  the  Church  of  the 
Beguinage  was  sold  as  confiscated  religious  pro- 
perty. The  sale  was  a  mere  trick — or,  in  English 
phrase,  a  job — to  accommodate  some  partisan 
of  the  ruling  demagogues  with  ready  money. 
Such  a  man  bought  it  for  a  nominal  price,  and 
in  the  course  of  two  or  three  weeks  sold  it  for 
300  Louis  d'ors  to  M.  Devolder  and  another 
sister,  who  then  made  it  over  to  the  com- 
munity. 

The  sisters  dine  in  the  Refectory  if  they 
please,  but  any  one  who  prefers  it  may  have 
dinner  sent  from  thence  to  her  own  apartments. 
We  were  taken  into  three  of  these  chambers ; 
they  were  small,  and  furnished  with  little  more 
than  necessary  comforts,  but  these  comforts  they 
had,  and  they  were  remarkably  clean.  In  one, 
a  sister  who  had  been  bedridden  many  years 
was  sitting  up  in  her  bed,  knitting ;  we  were 
introduced  into  her  chamber  because,  M.  Devol- 
der said,  it  amused  her  to  see  visitors,  tho'  she 
could  not  converse  with  us,  for  she  spoke  no 
French.     Two  sisters  were  spinning  in  another 

[       53       ] 


{    I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

chamber — one  of  them  was  83  years  of  age,  the 
other  85. 

I  might  have  learnt  more  if  my  tongue  and 
my  ears  had  not  been  the  most  Anti-GalHcan  in 
the  world,  and  the  Flemish-French  of  M.  Devol- 
der,  who  was  little  accustomed  to  speak  in  any 
other  language  than  her  own,  was  not  always 
intelligible  to  Mrs.  Vardon,  for  she  interpreted 
when  I  failed  to  understand  or  to  make  myself 
understood. 

The  dress  of  the  Beguines  is  not  incon- 
venient, but  it  is  abominably  ugly,  as  the  habits 
of  every  female  order  are,  I  believe,  without 
exception. 

Except  for  its  Beguinage,  Ghent  is  a  place 
which  I  shall  remember  with  less  pleasure  than 
Bruges.  There  is  a  greater  show  of  business, 
but  a  much  greater  appearance  of  poverty. 
The  city  is  not  so  clean,  there  is  an  odour  of 
Lisbon  or  Edinburgh  about  it,  tho'  the  filth 
is  speedily  removed,  the  gardens,  I  suppose, 
requiring  a  constant  supply  of  manure,  and  thus 
consuming  all  that  can  be  obtained.  It  was  so 
in  London  two  centuries  ago.  Here,  too,  the 
gutters  are  in  part  bridged  over  with  wooden 

[        54        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

doors  for  the  convenience  of  passing  and  clean- 
ing. 

The  cabinet  work  here  is  solid  and  good; 
they  stain  wood  very  beautifully.  What  is 
used  in  the  more  expensive  furniture  they  call 
Acajou,  and  say  they  get  it  from  Spain.  If 
this  be  its  proper  name,  it  must  come  from 
Cuba,  and  the  tree  has  an  additional  value 
which  I  was  not  aware  of.  It  would  in  that 
case  be  perhaps  the  most  valuable  tree  in  the 
world,  considering  its  fruit,  its  nut,  its  oil,  and 
its  power  of  flourishing  upon  the  driest  soiL 
But  I  doubt  it's  being  the  same  tree. 

I  should  have  been  tempted  at  Ghent  by 
some  oysters  of  excellent  physiognomy,  for 
there  is  a  physiognomy  in  oysters,  but  the  Land- 
lord told  us  that  they  had  lately  appeared  to- 
possess  some  poisonous  quality,  for  no  person 
had  eaten  them  without  experiencing  some  ill 
effects. 

Thursday^  Sept,  28. 

Yesterday  was  a  Kermes.  I  could  not  pre- 
cisely learn  the  meaning  of  this  word  ;  it  is  not 
exac%  a  fair,  but  it  is  something  of  the  same 

[       55        ] 


I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

kind.  Women  of  the  middle  and  iiigher  ranks 
were  walking  the  town  in  holyday  costume,  and 
sX  night  parties  of  men  paraded  the  streets 
singing,  to  the  annoyance  of  those  who  went  to 
bed  at  a  reasonable  hour. 

Our  wish  was  to  have  gone  from  hence  to 
Antwerp.  The  passage  of  the  Scheldt  at  Tete 
<lu  Flandres  was  an  obstacle.  Mrs.  Vardon  told 
us  the  boats  were  very  inconvenient  and  we 
might  have  to  wait  on  this  side  an  indefinite 
time  at  a  miserable  place.  I  was  then  for 
going  round  by  land,  but  to  this  the  coachmen 
who  were  consulted  objected ;  they  said  there 
was  no  chauseey  and  the  deep  sand  roads  were 
impassable.  An  Englishman,  in  the  present 
state  of  the  roads,  which  are  neither  too  wet 
nor  too  dry,  would  prefer  the  side  to  the  paved 
way.  However,  there  is  no  contesting  these 
points  in  a  foreign  country,  hardly,  indeed,  in 
one's  own.  Mr.  Vardon  therefore  hired  two 
carriages  for  forty-five  francs  to  carry  our  con- 
joined parties  (eleven  in  number  including  his 
man  and  maid  servant)  with  their  baggage  to 
Brussels,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  This 
-appeared  very  reasonable  when  compared  with 

[        66        ] 


IN    THE     NETHERLANDS 

expence  of  posting  in  England ;  nevertheless 
we  were  afterwards  assured  that  Mr.  V.  had 
been  greatly  imposed  on. 

It  was  the  hop  harvest,  and  in  every  house 
or  before  the  door  whole  families  were  busy  in 
stripping  them,  making  a  chearful  scene.  Hay- 
making also  (the  aftermath)  was  going  on,  and 
we  now  saw  haystacks,  none  of  which  we  had 
observed  before.  Flax  is  cultivated  here,  for 
oil.  Some  of  the  villages  have  a  green,  as  in 
England ;  even  Flemish  economy  allowing  this 
little  wholesome  and  useful  remains  of  the  com- 
mon, which  the  all-grasping  spirit  of  inclosures 
is  destroying  in  England.  Every  house  seems 
to  have  its  small  plot  of  tobacco.  Both  the 
sense  of  comfort  and  the  diffusion  of  it  certainly 
appear  to  be  much  more  general  than  with  us. 
A  blacksmith  was  eating  grapes  from  the  vine 
which  covered  his  house.  The  road-side  trees 
have  all  their  lower  branches  lopt,  and  thus 
they  admit  more  air  to  the  road  than  finds 
its  way  thro'  an  English  hedge.  The  villages 
which  we  passed  are  not  by  the  road-side,  but 
at  convenient  distance  from  it.  The  country 
much  of  the  same  character,  and  still  no  cattle 

[        57        ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


till  we  came  to  the  little  town  of  Alost,  where 
we  dined,  faring  badly  in  a  bad  inn. 

The  name  of  this  place  occurs  in  history  often 
enough  to  make  it  interesting.  The  town 
house  bears  this  motto,  with  the  date  in  the 
middle,  Nee  spe,  1200,  nee  metu,  but  it  must  not 
be  supposed  that  the  building  is  six  hundred 
years  old.  The  church  is  remarkable  for  having 
an  open  gallery  over  the  great  window.  Neither 
Mr.  Nash  or  I  had  seen  anything  like  it.  The 
Dender  runs  thro"  the  town. 

There  was  a  well-contrived  basket  at  the  inn 
with  partitions  for  small  glasses.  The  best 
thing  they  produced  was  some  small  creamy 
cheeses,  very  good  of  their  kind.  They  come 
from  Enghien ;  the  Priests,  we  are  told,  receive 
them  in  exchange  for  Agnus  Deis  and  such 
things,  and  supply  the  inns  with  them.  It  is 
not  the  first  time  that  I  have  been  benefitted  by 
this  sort  of  connection  between  the  Priest  and 
the  Innkeeper.  We  should  often  have  fared 
badly  in  Portugal  if  the  Estalajadeiro  had  not 
had  some  game  of  the  Curate's  shooting  to  dis- 
pose of.  As  soon  as  we  left  Alost  the  character 
of  the  country  changed  ;    we  entered  upon  a 

[        58        ] 


grazing  district,  and  saw  plenty  of  cattle.  The 
trees  also  were  much  larger.  This  is  a  land  of 
wells,  but  of  bad  water ;  at  least  since  our  land- 
ing the  Ladies  had  met  with  none  that  was  good 
till,  in  the  large  village  of  Assche,  between 
Alost  and  Brussels,  it  was  presented  them  in 
very  long  glasses  of  cuiious  form,  as  a  delicacy, 
after  some  sweet  cakes.  These  cakes,  for  which 
it  seems  Assche  is  renowned,  are  made  at  the 
sign  of  the  Negro  by  Judocus  de  Bisschop,  next 
door  to  the  Bull's  Head  Inn,  and  described  in 
his  handbills  by  the  deformed  appellation  ot 
Suyker-lcoekxkens^  which  latter  word,  I  think, 
must  belong  to  the  language  called  by  the  poet 
Randolph  croakation^  and  never  written  except 
by  Aristophanes.  Gateaux-Sucres  is  the  French 
version  thereof.  But  the  cakes  are  good  cakes, 
worthy  to  be  eaten  and  commended. 

By-the-bye,  I  can  make  nothing  of  the  chris- 
tian name  Judocus.  Mynheer  de  Bisschop  here 
frenchifies  it  by  Josse,  which,  whether  it  be 
Joseph  or  Joshua,  required  a  farther  interpre- 
tation. But  VondePs  name  is  written  sometimes 
Judocus  and  sometimes  Joost,  and  Joost  is 
certainly  Justus. 

[       59       ] 


Ij 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


We  past,  at  some  distance  on  our  left,  the 
extensive  ruins  of  Afflighem,  one  of  the  largest 
and  finest  monastries  in  Brabant,  and  celebrated 
for  its  rich  library  even  in  a  country  famous  for 
such  riches.     Large  hewn  stones  from  the  ruin 
were  lying  by  the  roadside.      This  destruction 
was  one  of  the  acts  of  revolutionary  madness. 
The  driver  told  us  that  before  its  demolition, 
which  he  seemed  to  lament  with  proper  feeling, 
it    had   given    employment    to   fifty   families. 
We   heard   little   of   the   revolutionary   havoc 
committed  in  the  Low  Countries,  the  bloodier 
enormities  in   France   occasioned   them  to   be 
overlooked.     But  I  have  already  seen  enough 
to  convince  me  that  great  and  irreparable  mis- 
chief has  been  done,  quite  as  much  as  in  England 
at  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  and  of  the  same 
kind.     And   here   it  has   been   pure  mischief, 
without  any  accompanying  good. 

Upon  this  stage  we  were  annoyed  by  children 
^ggi^g  "^ost  importunately  by  the  wayside 
wherever  there  was  what  the  Netherlanders  call 
a  monta^ne.  They  sung  in  a  monotonous  strain 
these  words,  half  French,  half  English,  "  Vive 
VAngleterre !  dis  for  Napoleon,''  and  then  the 

[       60       ] 


finger  was  significantly  passed  across  the  throat. 
I  suspect  this  has  come  into  use  since  the  battle. 
Some  whistled  the  tune,  accompanying  it  with 
the  same  gesture;  others  tumbled,  like  vaga- 
bonds of  a  like  description  in  England ;  and 
others  hopt  along  in  imitation  of  frogs. 

It  was  dusk  before  we  reached  Brussels ;  this 
was  unlucky,  as  it  prevented  us  from  seeing  the 
approach.  Our  passpoi-ts  were  taken  at  the 
gates,  in  so  courteous  a  manner  that  it  would 
have  reconciled  us  to  a  measure  of  police  more 
troublesome  and  less  reasonable.  The  Emperor 
Alexander  was  here,  and  the  city  illuminated 
in  consequence.  We  drove  to  the  Hotel  de 
Flandres,  in  the  Place  de  Roi,  adjoining  the 
Park. 

Friday^  Sept,  29. 

Our  first  business  was  at  the  Police  Office, 
where  the  people  were  less  courteous  than  they 
had  been  at  any  former  place,  in  proportion  as 
they  have  more  business ;  he  must  be  unreason- 
able who  complains  of  short  and  pithy  manners, 
necessarily  arising  from  this  cause.  Here  I 
ascertained  that  my  brother  and  his  party  had 

[^      61        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

gone  to  Antwerp  on  their  way  home  instead  of 
proceeding  to  Spa,  as  they  had  talked  of  doing. 
All  hope  of  falling  in  with  them  was  therefore 
at  an  end.  We  fairly  joined  company  therefore 
vnth  the  fellow-travellers  whom  chance  had 
^ven  us  and  whom  choice  approved  ;  and  it 
was  settled  that  we  should  go  on  from  Waterloo 
to  Namur,  Spa  and  Aix  la  Chapelle,  and  re- 
turn to  Brussels  by  way  of  Maestricht  and 
Lou  vain. 

I  had  read  in  the  BiTissels  Guide  or  Petit 
Necessaire  that  Anderlecht  butter  or  pistolets 
made  the  breakfasts  in  that  city  excellent. 
Upon  this  I  asked  the  waiter  what  these  pistols 
were,  and  he  replied  by  pointing  with  a  smile 
to  some  little  long  rolls  upon  the  breakfast- 
table.  We  had  also  the  Anderlecht  butter, 
which  is  not  better  than  what  we  have  found 
along  the  whole  way,  because  the  butter  every- 
where is  as  good  as  it  can  be.  I  had  been  told 
that  we  should  meet  with  good  coffee  on  the 
continent ;  it  is  about  as  good  as  you  usually 
find  it  in  England,  that  is  to  say,  detestable  to 
a  Lisbonian's  palate,  more  like  the  rinsings  of 
the  pot  than  what  he  has  been  accustomed  to. 

[        62        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Tea  evidently  is  not  used  in  these  countries. 
We  had  been  advised  to  take  some  with  us,  but 
as  cream  is  never  to  be  had,  it  proved  of  little 
use. 

We  staid  at  Brussels  four  days ;  this  was 
longer  than  we  intended,  or  desired,  but  because 
the  Emperor  and  the  Prussian  Prince  were 
there,  carriages  were  not  to  be  procured.  I 
had  thus  ample  time  to  look  after  books  and 
see  what  was  to  be  seen. 

Brussels  has  been  too  much  modernized,  too 
much  Frenchified  in  all  respects.    As  a  speci- 
men of  the  leprous  filthiness  with  which  the 
French   have  infected   these   countries,    I   saw 
some  toys  in  a  shop  window  representing  men 
with  their  loins  ungirt,  in  the  attitude  of  the 
Deus  CcLcaturiens,  each  with  a  piece  of  yellow 
metal,  like  a  sham  coin,  inserted  behind.     The 
persons  who  exhibit  such  things  as  these  for 
sale  deserve  the  pillory  or  the  whipping  post — 
the  very  mob  in  England  would  not  tolerate 
them.     And  where  these  are  exposed,  it  may 
easily  be  guessed  what  sort  of  ware  is  to  be 
found  within.      Indeed,  I  am  told   that  such 
damnable  abominations  as  were  manufactured 

[       63       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


by  the  French  prisoners  during  the  war  are 
always  upon  sale  here.  The  Flemings  and 
Brabanters  have  caught  this  sort  of  corruption. 
It  does  not  belong  to  their  national  character, 
which  must  essentially  be  the  same  as  that  of 
the  Dutch.  What  difference  there  is  can  only 
be  such  as  their  different  religions  have  induced, 
and  it  would  be  a  very  interesting  enquiry  to 
trace  this  for  one  who  was  sufficiently  acquainted 
with  the  respective  countries. 

Of  course  I  enquired  for  the  Manneke,  as  the 
most  notorious,  if  not  the  most  famous  piece 
of  sculpture  of  modem  times,  and  one  which 
the  populace  value  as  if  it  were  the  Palladium 
of  Brussels.  The  execution  is  so  admirable 
that  one  can  hardly  forgive  the  artist  for  the 
design,  and  yet  the  figure  is  far  too  infantine 
and  innocent  to  be  deemed  offensive.  It  might 
probably  provoke  the  cognizance  of  a  society 
for  the  suppression  of  vice;  but  for  myself, 
certainly  I  should  not  indict  it  as  contra  honos 
mores.  I  remember  Olivier  de  la  Marche  speaks 
of  such  an  image  at  an  entertainment  given 
by  Philip  the  Good  ;  it  made  rose-water.  The 
best  manners  therefore  iri  that  age  were  not 

[        64        ] 


i 

w 


^^. 


I 


V'^' 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


offended  by  it.  I  do  not  know  when  the 
Manneke  was  made.  TTie  sculptor  may  have 
had  this  very  description  of  the  Chroniclers  in 
mind,  or  which  is  still  more  likely,  may  have 
intended  a  good-natured  satire  upon  the  absurd 
taste  so  commonly  displayed  in  fountains,  of 
which  Brussels  abounds  in  examples.  For  in- 
stance, here  is  a  half-length  human  figure  with 
the  water  flowing  from  his  mouth ;  and  others 
where  the  figure  is  female,  and  it  spouts  from 
both  breasts.  The  Manneke  may  be  con- 
sidered as  a  fair  burlesque  of  such  preposterous 
devices. 

Madrid  is  the  city  for  handsome  fountains. 
The  only  fine  one  here  is  in  the  Place  de  Sablon. 
And  the  finest  monuments  are  in  the  Church  de 
Sablon. 

Richard  Carbonell,  the  poor  fellow  who  was 
wounded  at  Waterloo,  and  for  whom  I  brought 
a  letter  from  his  parents  at  Keswick,  died  on  the 
14th  of  August.  In  going  to  the  hospital  to 
enquire  for  him,  I  saw  some  waggons  full  of 
wounded  men,  who  had  been  taken  out  for  air 
— a  most  melancholy  sight.  Some  were  lying 
upon    straw,   pale,   emaciated,   and    with    the 

[       65       ]  E 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

utmost  languor  and  listlessness  in  their  appear- 
ance ;  others  in  a  rapid  state  of  convalescence, 
erect  and  seeming  to  have  no  feeling  or  con- 
cern for  their  companions.     This  I  particularly 
noticed  in  a  load  of  Frenchmen  whom  I  fol- 
lowed  for   some   time.      They   were   in    white 
flannel  dresses,  and   it   was   gratifying   to   see 
(however   ill   this  accursed   race   deserved   it!) 
that  they  were  as  well  taken  care  of  as  if  they 
had  been  our  own  countrymen.     The  manage- 
ment of  the  hospital  appeared  to  be  excellent. 
My  errand  there  was  soon  accomplished  ;  the 
books  were  turned  to  and  my  enquiry  answered 
in  less  time  than  it  has  taken  me  to  describe 
what  I  saw  there.     I  have  no  recollection  of 
the   poor   fellow   himself,    but   it   would   have 
gratified   me   if    I    could    have   sent   home   a 
different  account  to  his  parents.     I  had  never 
before  seen  the  real  face  of  war  so  closely  ;  and 
God  knows  !  a  deplorable  sight  it  is. 

Lt.-Colonel  Miller,  of  the  Inniskillen  Dra- 
goons, is  in  our  hotel  lying  in  his  bed,  miser- 
ably wounded.  His  thigh  was  broken  by  a 
grape-shot,  and  splinters  and  the  rags  which 
were  driven  into  the  flesh  prevent  the  wound 

[       66        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


from   healing.     By  desire  of  his  sei^ant,  who 
seems  most  faithfully  attached  to  his  master, 
we  visited  him.    He  is  a  remarkably  fine-looking 
man  and  beai-s  up  with  wonderful  spirit ;  and 
in  this  he  has  his  best  chance ;  for  the  surgeon 
considers  his  recovery  as  extremely  difficult.     I 
saw  the  ball  which  had  been  extracted ;  it  was 
not  smaller  than  a  walnut,  and  very  ragged,  as 
if  the  mould  in  which  it  was  cast  had  not  been 
fairly  closed.     He  was  wounded  near  La  Haye 
Sainte  towards  the  close  of  the  action,  and  at  a 
time  he  says   when   he  thought  the   day   was 
going  ill  with  the  English.     But  he  had  been 
hurt  before  he  was  thus  disabled.     Leading  on 
his  men  to  charge  a  solid  square,  he  thought 
they  appeared   to  funk,  and   was  afraid   they 
might  tum  back ;  upon  which  he  pushed  on  a 
little  too  far  before  them,  for  an  example,  and 
was  thrown  from  his  horse  with  two  bayonet 
wounds.      These,    however,    were    slight,    and 
when    the     men    did    their    duty    in    saving 
him,   he   had   some  sticking-plaister,   he   said, 
put     on    and     returned    to    the    field.      The 
question   now  is  whether  nature  can  hold  out 
till   the  wound  suppurates  and  expels  all  the 

[        67        ] 


mmtmt 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


extraneous   substances  which   now   prevent   its 

healing.* 

The  Great  Square  is  the  finest  thing  of  its 
kind  I  have  yet  seen.  The  Stadthouse,  which 
forms  one  side,  is  truly  a  magnificent  building, 
but  the  roof,  which  rises  very  high,  with  a  long, 
straight,  unrelieved  outline  and  a  great  number 
of  unomamented  garret  windows,  does  not 
accord  with  the  richness  of  the  structure  in  all 
other  parts.  These  Townhouses  are  indeed 
splendid  edifices,  and  show  what  the  spirit  and 
wealth  of  these  provinces  must  have  been  in 
their  better  days.  To  complain  that  there  is 
nothing  within  which  corresponds  with  the 
magnificence  of  their  exterior  would  be  finding 
fault  with  them  for  being  what  they  are.  It  is 
only  in  ecclesiastical  buildings  that  the  impres- 
sion which  the  external  grandeur  makes  upon 
the  mind  can  be  heightened  when  we  enter. 
Westminster  Hall  indeed  is  an  exception.  At 
the   back   of  the  building  there   is   a  row  of 

-  Mrs.  Vardon  met  him  at  Bruges  twelve  months 
afterwards  on  his  way  to  England,  only  just  then  able 
to  bear  the  removal,  and  using  crutches,  but  in  a  fair 
way  of  recovery. 

[       68       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

gigantic  gilt  arms  projecting  from  the  wall, 
each  holding  what  for  want  of  a  more  appro- 
priate word  I  must  call  a  candlestick,  for  a 
torch.  The  effect  would  be  very  grand  if  the 
arm  did  not,  in  the  worst  imaginable  taste, 
come  out  of  the  mouth  of  a  huge  face ! 

Not  far  from  hence,  according  to  the  direction 
given  me  by  the  Librarian  at  Ghent,  I  found 
Verbeyst  the  bookseller,  a  very  singular  and 
striking  man.  A  more  thorough  sloven  I  never 
saw,  and  seldom  or  never  a  man  with  a  better 
and  finer  countenance.  Frequent  as  were  my 
visits  to  him,  I  never  happened  to  see  him 
entirely  drest ;  sometimes  he  was  without  neck- 
cloth, sometimes  without  stockings.  His  house, 
from  the  ground  floor  to  the  garret,  is  full 
of  books,  beyond  all  comparison  the  largest 
collection  of  foreign  works  I  ever  saw  exposed 
to  sale,  a  sight  which  made  me  wish  that  I  had 
plenty  of  money  at  command.  Here  was  what 
had  been  saved  from  the  wreck  of  many  a  con- 
vent library,  but  what  a  destiniction  has  been 
made !  Verbeyst,  who  loves  books  as  dearly  as 
I  do,  spoke  of  it  with  proper  feeling.  They 
had  been  brought  to  him  in  such  quantities 

[        69        ] 


I' 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

that,  not  having  where  to  stow  them,  after  fill- 
ing his  own  house  and  a  church  also,  he  had 
been  obliged  to  sell  moi-e  than  an  hundred  thou- 
sand weight  for  waste  paper,  for  which  use  he 
once  sent  off  fi ve-and-twenty  waggon-loads  at  one 
time  !  He  related  this  with  as  much  vexation 
as  it  gave  me  to  hear  it,  for  Verbeyst  is  no  ordi- 
nary bookseller;  he  has  a  thorough  love  of 
books,  and  told  me  he  would  not  exchange  the 
pleasure  which  he  finds  in  reading  for  any 
advantages  of  wealth  or  station.  I  dealt  with 
him  largely  considering  my  slender  means. 
Artzema's  great  work,  with  the  continuation, 
was  among  my  purchases — eleven  folios,  a  huge 
mass  of  materials  quite  indispensable  for  any 
one  who  would  write  upon  the  history  of 
the  17th  century.  Here,  too,  I  found  the 
Jesuit  Pierre  du  Jarvie\s  history  of  the  progress 
of  Christianity  in  the  Portugueze  conquests,  the 
original  French  in  three  small  quartos.  I  had 
long  been  in  search  of  this  book,  which  is  very 
scarce,  and  very  important  to  my  pursuits,  as 
supplying,  so  far  as  it  goes,  better  than  any 
other  work,  the  want  of  a  series  of  the  Annual 
Relations. 

[        70        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

I  went  to  see  the  French  cannon  which  had 
been  taken  at  Waterloo.  They  were  in  an 
open  place  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  under 
the  care  of  a  single  centinel,  who  was  pacing 
quietly  beside  them,  for  they  had  now  ceased 
to  be  an  object  of  public  curiosity,  and  few 
travellers  thought  of  enquiring  for  them, 
or  took  the  trouble  to  search  them  out. 
There  were  133  pieces,  all  of  brass,  some  bear- 
ing the  mark  of  the  Republic,  others  of  Louis, 
others  of  Buonaparte.  Many  had  a  name 
stamped  on  them,  such  as  Le  Coitsem,  Le  Furet, 
I  remember  in  my  early  boyhood  a  Bristol 
privateer  of  some  celebrity  during  the  American 
War,  which,  in  a  like  spirit,  was  called  the 
Hortiet,  Proceeding  from  this  place  to  the 
canal,  we  then  ascended  the  ramparts  and 
walked  upon  them  half  round  the  city,  and 
thus  obtained  a  good  prospect  of  the  whole. 

Our  quai-ters  were  at  the  Hotel  de  Flandres, 
in  the  Place  de  Roi,  a  handsome  square  on  the 
top  of  the  hill,  very  handsome  indeed  of  its 
kind,  but  it  is  such  a  square  as  might  as  well  be 
in  London,  or  Paris,  or  Berlin,  the  buildings  have 
nothing  about  them  to  characterize  their  country, 

[       71       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


i  / 


and  in  this  respect,  therefore,  they  ill  supply  the 
place  of  the  Palace  which  was  burnt  there  in 
1731.  The  Hotel  is  as  good  as  can  be  desired, 
and,  of  course,  sufficiently  expensive.  Our  sit- 
ting-room was  on  the  lowest  floor,  unluckily,  not 
so  much  because  this  put  us  to  the  trouble  of 
ascending  seventy-two  stairs  to  the  bedroom,  as 
because  it  exposed  us  to  the  street,  and  we  were 
beset,  in  consequence,  by  a  class  of  pei-sons  quite 
as  importunate  as  beggars,  and  whom  there  are 
stronger  reasons  for  discouraging.  While  we 
were  at  breakfast  nosegays  of  the  sweetest 
flowers,  nicely  arranged  for  a  lady's  dress,  were 
thrown  in  at  the  window.  After  dinner  we 
were  serenaded  by  musicians  and  female  singers, 
who  were  better  performers  than  are  found  in 
our  provincial  theatres.  One  day  an  itinerant 
juggler  set  up  his  portable  table  in  front  of  our 
apartment  and  began  to  exhibit  his  tricks  for 
our  amusement  and  that  of  the  crowd,  but  he 
was  by  no  means  expert  in  his  art. 

All  this  is  rather  French  than  Flemish,  and, 
indeed,  this  is  in  very  many  respects  a  Frenchi- 
fied city.  The  modem  pai-t  is  said  to  resemble 
Paris,  and  the  Park  is  altogether  French,  with 

[        72        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

its  straight  walks  and  statues,  and  fountains 
and  shade  enough  to  afford  a  convenient  cover 
for  a  profligate  people.  The  town  is  overrun 
with  splendid  carriages ;  and  these,  as  was  noto- 
riously the  case  in  France,  are  driven  without 
caution  or  remorse,  as  if  the  coachmen  wished 
to  terrify  or  even  to  run  over  the  foot-passengers, 
a  practice  the  more  dangerous  because  the  streets 
are  not  flagged.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
public  library  we  stept  aside  to  look  at  some 
statues,  which  had  been  used  at  some  late 
spectacle  (probably  the  inauguration)  and  then 
laid  by.  The  drapery  appeared  so  remarkably 
good  that  it  induced  us  to  examine  them,  and 
it  was  not  till  we  saw  one  comer  of  a  robe  move 
with  the  wind  as  we  approached  that  we  dis- 
covered them  to  be  actually  dressed  in  coarse 
linen,  which  had  afterwards  been  whitelimed, 
and  thus  stifl*ened  to  resemble  stone.  This  was 
tmly  French — the  shift  and  the  cleverness,  the 
imposing  appearance,  and  the  intrinsic,  dis- 
gusting meanness. 

The  Cathedral  stands  well,  but  none  of  the 
Cathedrals  which  I  have  seen  in  these  countries 
are  to  be  compared  with  our  own  for  their 

[       73       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

external  beauty,  nor  even  with  some  of  the  fine 
parochial  churches  in  Lincolnshire  and  in  the 
West  of  England.  The  pulpit  here  is  the  most 
beautiful  I  ever  saw ;  it  is  the  work  of  Henry 
Verbouggen,  of  Antwerp,  who  made  it  in  1699 
for  the  Jesuits'  Church  at  Louvain,  and  on  the 
suppression  of  that  order  the  Emperors  pre- 
sented it  to  this  Cathedral.  This  was  probably 
done  in  honour  of  St.  Gudule ;  but  it  is  surely 
an  act  of  great  injustice  thus  to  rob  one  city  of 
one  of  its  noblest  ornaments  to  enrich  another. 

While  we  were  at  Brussels  the  Emperor 
Alexander  and  the  Prussian  Princes  arrived,  so 
that  Edith  May  saw  a  live  Emperor.  Having 
letters  to  write  and  more  than  enough  to  employ 
me,  I  did  not  join  the  crowd  which  had  col- 
lected to  behold  these  great  personages,  but  con- 
tented myself  with  just  going  into  the  Park  to 
look  at  the  illuminations  at  the  Palace.  On  the 
following  night  the  AUe  Verte  was  illuminated, 
and  three  large  vessels  also,  which  produced  a 
striking  effect  as  they  moved  upon  the  canal. 

We  went  to  see  M.  De  Burtin's  pictures,  a 
choice  and  celebrated  collection ;  but  nothing 
in  his  possession    is   half   so   extraordinary  as 

[       74       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


■ 


himself.  The  Queen  and  the  Prussian  Princes 
had  been  just  before  us,  so  that  he  was  in  half- 
dress,  having  on  an  embroidered  white  sattin 
waistcoat,  over  which  he  had  a  magnificent 
flowered  diessing  gown.  "  Have  you  seen  my 
Book  ?  "  was  his  first  question— a  critical  cata- 
logue of  his  own  collection,  with  a  preliminary 
treatise  upon  painting,  in  two  large  octavo 
volumes,  which  he,  albeit  S.CM.M.  a  Consil: 
Gen:  Belg :  etc,  etc.  sells  himself  to  whoever 
pleases  to  buy  it.  We  humbly  acknowledged 
that  we  had  not.  "  What ! "  he  exclaimed, 
"  not  seen  it  ? ''  And  then  he  told  us  what  an 
excellent  book  it  was,  and  how  much  we  had  to 
learn,  and  what  a  pleasure  we  had  to  come,  for 
it  was  as  delightful  as  it  was  instructive.  It 
was  as  entertaining  as  a  novel,  he  assured  us ; 
it  taught  everything  concerning  pictures  which 
could  be  known ;  it  was  such  a  book  that  it 
could  be  read  a  thousand  years  hence  with 
enthusiasm.  It  was  already  famous  at  Oxford 
and  Cambridge ;  the  language  was  so  pure  that 
French  masters  preferred  it  to  any  other  work 
for  their  pupils.  An  English  lady  who  never 
had  handled  a  brush  till  she  read  that  book 

[       75       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


leamt  to  paint  by  studying  it,  came  to  Brussels 
from  a  feeling  of  gratitude  to  thank  him,  and 
painted  his  portrait,  which  he  accordingly 
showed  us,  in  a  night-cap  and  the  identical 
robe  de  chambre  wherein  he  stood  before  us. 

It  was  well  that  I  had  prudence  enough  to 
caution  my  companions  against  ever  saying 
anything  in  English  which  they  would  not  like 
the  persons  present  to  understand.  Sorely,  as 
it  proved,  should  we  have  been  ashamed  if  this 
man's  extraordinary  figure,  more  extraordinary 
countenance  (he  was  truly  an  ill-favoured  rogue), 
and  most  extraordinary  con  vei-sation  had  tempted 
us  to  any  such  remarks  as  everyone  was  strongly 
inclined  to  make,  for  the  old  fox,  who  had  pre- 
tended not  to  understand  English,  began  to 
speak  it  just  as  we  were  going  away.  As  it 
was,  we  left  him  in  good  humour,  for  both  Nash 
and  I  bought  his  book,  and  perhaps  the  most 
i-emarkable  part  of  the  adventure  is  that  really 
the  book  is  a  very  good  one,  probably  the  best 
which  has  been  written  of  its  kind. 

I  pretend  to  no  knowledge  of  pictures  ;  but 
I  will  venture  to  say  that  what  he  shows  as 
Michael   Angelo's  was   never  pciinted  by  that 

[        76        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


r; 


master.  He  has  prefixed  an  engraving  of  it  to 
his  second  volume. 

While  we  were  at  the  Hotel  an  English  family 
arrived  there,  on  their  return  from  Italy. 
According  to  the  account  which  their  servants 
spread,  robbers  are  so  numerous  in  that  country 
that  they  had  waited  at  one  place  till  fourteen 
carriages  were  collected.  Even  this  caravan 
was  stopt,  but  the  banditti  hesitated  about 
attacking  them.  A  parley  ensued,  which  ended 
in  the  travellers  hiring  these  robbers  to  escort 
them  the  rest  of  the  stage,  by  which  means 
they  were  protected  from  a  second  stage. 

Mr.  Vardon  is  acquainted  with  a  very  intelli- 
gent German  merchant  in  this  city,  a  native  of 
the  Duchy  of  Berg,  Engelbert  Werth  by  name. 
He  tells  us  that  the  Prussian  Commandant  at 
Paris  has  been  murdered,  that  the  destruction 
of  Paris  must  be  expected  as  an  inevitable  con- 
sequence ;  that  Alexander,  upon  this  intelligence, 
had  set  off  hastily  for  France,  and  that  this  was 
the  reason  why  he  had  not  been  at  the  theatre 
on  the  preceding  evening,  according  to  the 
notice  which  had  been  given  in  the  bills.  It 
had  been  said  in  the  morning  that  the  manager 

[       77       ] 


III 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


had  been  sent  to  prison  for  having  deceived  the 
public  by  announcing  his  intended  presence,  not 
being  authorized   so   to   do.      This,   however, 
would  have  implied  a  degree  of  despotism  which 
certainly  does  not  exist  in  Belgium.     As  for 
the  news,  I  have  lived  long  enough  in  a  country 
where  the  newspapei-s  are  of  no  value,  to  know 
how  little  credit  is  due  to  the  reports  which 
spring  up    wherever    authentic    intelligence  is 
wanting.     The  slightest  enquiry  sufficed  to  show 
that  this  formidable  tale  rested  on  no  authority, 
and  the  old  saying  about  the  month  of  March 
might  be  applied  to  it— it  came  in  like  a  Lion 
and  went  out  like  a  Lamb. 

Mr.  Werth  drew  a  plan  of  the  battle,  which 
he  explained  with  remarkable  clearness,  and 
which  he  has  promised  to  draw  out  fairly  and 
send  after  me  to  Spa.  Yet  I  doubt  the  accu- 
racy of  his  statement  in  one  point,  and  upon 
another  there  is  indubitable  proof  that  he  is 
wrong.  He  says  that  the  English  were  diiven 
from  Hougomont.  Certainly  they  were  not; 
great  part  of  the  buildings  were  destroyed, 
but  the  French  never  could  effect  an  entrance. 
He  says  that  Buonaparte  lost    the  battle  by 

[        78        ] 


sending  Vandamme  with  22,000  men  against 
Waure  in  the  evening,  when  he  considered  the 
field  as  decisively  his  own,  and  that  Bulow  took 
advantage  of  this  fatal  error.  Now,  unless  I  am 
grievously  mistaken,  Vandamme  was  despatched 
under  Grouchy  the  preceding  day.  A  useful 
lesson  this,  if  I  had  needed  one,  to  teach  me 
with  what  caution  the  hearsay  relations  even  of 
intelligent  men  are  to  be  received.  He  was 
upon  the  field  five  days  after  the  action  with 
Henry  Bedford's  friend,  Hercules  Sharp.  They 
found  the  house  at  Papelot  full  of  wounded 
Pmssians  who  had  literally  been  forgotten. 
Falling  in  with  a  party  of  Prussian  soldiers, 
they  stated  the  fact  and  intreated  them  to  go 
and  assist  their  countrymen  ;  the  answer  was 
that  this  was  the  fortune  of  war;  they  had 
received  orders  whither  to  march,  and  could  not 
deviate  from  them.  This  indeed  was  .tme,  nor 
was  there  any  assistance  which  it  was  in  their 
power  to  have  afforded.  Mr.  Werth  and  his 
companion  then  applied  to  the  Mayor  of  some 
neighbouring  place,  but  he  had  already  more 
wounded  than  he  could  find  room  to  lodge  or 
persons  to  attend. 

[        79        ] 


Vl 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


Tuesday^  Oct,  3. 

Left  Brussels  after  an  early  breakfast  and 
went  thro'  the  Forest  of  Soigny  to  Waterloo. 
The  forest  is  for  the  most  part  a  close  planta- 
tion, approaching  so  close  to  the  road  as  to 
shade  it  and  prevent  it  from  drying.  There  are 
wells  in  all  the  villages,  and  almost  at  every 
house ;  they  are  generally  under  a  shed,  per- 
fectly secured  against  any  accident  from  care- 
lessness, and  with  a  wheel  over  which  the  rope 
passes.  The  church  at  Waterloo  is  a  singular 
and  not  unhandsome  building,  considering  its 
size  and  materials,  with  a  dome.  It  is  some 
distance  from  thence  thro"  the  Forest  to  the 
scene  of  action,  which  commences  at  Mont  St. 
Jean.  We  neglected  to  mark  the  distance,  and 
now  differ  about  it,  some  saying  scarcely  one 
mile,  others  extending  it  to  three,  to  which 
latter  opinion  I  more  nearly  incline,  but  the 
difference  shows  how  little  a  vague  estimate  is 
to  be  trusted.  Upon  leaving  the  forest  you 
come  upon  an  open  country,  and  at  the  village 
of  Mont  St.  Jean  (where  you  may  look  in  vain 

[       80       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


for  anything  like  a   mount)   we  saw  the  first 
direct  mark  of  the  battle,  a  large  curb-stone  at 
a  bam  door,  cracked  and  splintered  by  a  cannon 
ball.     Here  we  were  surrounded  by  men  in  their 
blue  frocks  and  caps,  contending  who  should  be 
our  guide.     Luckily  the  one  was  successful  whom 
I  should  have  selected  for  his  striking  counte- 
nance and  manner,  and  a  better  choice  could  not 
have  been  made.     He  led  us  along  the  road 
toward  La   Haye   Sainte.      The   enemy  never 
could  pass  a  cross  road  leading  from  Wavre  to 
Braine   le  Lend,    which    crosses    the    chaussee 
between  Mont  St.  Jean  and  La  Haye  Sainte. 
Here  the  Highlanders  were  posted.  "  O  my  God ! ' ' 
the  man  exclaimed,  "  how  well   they  fought — 
those  Scotchmen — those  men  without  breeches  ! 
How  they  fought !     If  they  had  not  fought  so 
well,  Brussels  and  Waterloo  would  have   been 
taken  and  Mont  St.  Jean  burnt!''     This  was 
always  the  burthen  of  his  song.     Mont  St.  Jean 
was  the  dwelling-place,  and  his  fate  as  well  as 
that  of  Europe  depended  upon  the  issue  of  the 
battle. 

While  we  were  surveying  this  gi'ound — where 
the  Scotch  and  the  Inniskillens  may  almost  be 

[        81        ]  F 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


said  to  have  decided  the  fate  of  the  day,  two 
officers,  not  in  regimentals,  came  up.     I  think 
they  were  Prussians.     Koster  supposed  them  to 
be  Enghsh.     They  asked  the  guide  in  French 
where  the  Emperor  was  during  the  battle,  but 
he,  in  his  plain  honest  sense  of  right  and  wrong, 
did  not  understand  that  they  meant  Buonaparte 
by  that  appellation,  till  they  explained.     When 
he  pointed  to   the  wood  and  said,  "  There  it 
was  that  the  fifteen  thousand    Prussians  came 
out,^  one  of  them  answered  in  the  most  super- 
cilious manner  imaginable,  "  Trente-deux,   s^il 
vous  plait !  ^  moving  his  moustachios  to  a  sar- 
donic smile. 

The  farm  house  at  La  Haye  Sainte  is  well 
represented  in  the  panoramic  print.  The  house 
here  and  the  stables  had  been  full  of  wounded 
and  the  yard  full  of  dead.  It  suffered  some- 
thing, but  not  much,  and  having  changed  its 
tenant  since  the  battle,  the  holes  in  the  wall 
have  been  repaired.  La  Belle  Alliance  is 
on  the  chaussk,  in  a  line  with  this  house,  but 
we  left  the  road  here,  and  turning  to  the  right, 
crost  the  fields  to  Hougomont. 

Let  me  endeavour  to  describe  the  scene.     It 

[       B2        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


is  a  wide,  open  country^  in  which  the  most  con- 
spicuous object  is  the  Church  of  Braine  le  Leud. 
Standing  on  the  chaussSe  by  Mont  St.  Jean  and 
looking  to  the  field  of  battle,  the  forest  is  behind 
you ;  Papelot  and  Frechemont  on  its  skirts  to 
the  left ;  La  Haye  Sainte,  and  farther  on.  La 
Belle  Alliance,  both  straight  forward,  on  the 
high  road ;  the  Observatory  to  the  right  at  a 
greater  distance,  upon  what  we  are  told  is  the 
highest  ground  in  the  Low  Countries  ;  Hougo- 
mont farther  to  the    right,  but    less    remote; 
Braine  la  Leud  more  to  the  right  still,  and  more 
distant,  and  thus  looking  round  to  the  Forest  of 
Soigny  you  compleat  the  circle.      The  ground 
would  not  appear  strong  to  a  person  ignorant  of 
the  art  of  war.     But  there  are  dips  and  swells 
like  those  on  our  South  Downs  and  Wiltshire 
hills  (tho'the  inequality  is  considerably  less) 
which  in  wet  weather  and  in  this  heavy  soil 
would    give    great    advantage    to    the   troops 
defending  the  ascent.     I  suppose  Lord  Welling- 
ton looked  to  two  advantages:  the  fair  open 
field  of  battle,  and  the  security  which  the  forest 
afforded  his  rear. 

The  observatory  is  still  upon  the  ground,  and 

[        83        ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


the  people  here  all  agree  in  saying  it  was  erected 

by  the  English. 

Hougoumont    was  a   gentleman's   residence, 
and  a  fine  one,  with  chapel,  pigeon-house,  out 
buildings,  extensive  gardens,  orchard  and  grove. 
This  is  the  only  picturesque  point  in  the  whole 
field,  and  it  is  highly  so— a  sort  of  oasis,  or 
wood-island,  having  that  beauty  which  a  well- 
planted    spot  possesses  in    a    bare    and   open 
country.     There  are  avenues  and  covered-walks 
in  the  garden ;  at  the  end  of  that  which  faces 
the    middle   of  the   teiTace   before  the   house 
(where  the  ascent    is  by  a  few  steps)    a   vile 
picture    is    placed     upon    a    little    eminence, 
representing   another   avenue,  with  a   summer 
house    at    the     end.       In   a    country    which 
abounds  with  fine  pictures,  such  an  instance  of 
abominable  taste  was  not  to  have  been  looked 

for. 

Lord  Wellington  was  here  on  the  17th, 
asking  the  names  of  all  the  places  round,  the 
distances,  etc.  When  he  went  away  he  said  to 
the  Gardener  that  if  he  did  not  occupy  this 
point  the  next  day  the  French  would.  In  con- 
sequence of  what  Mr.  Werth  had  said,  I  asked 

[        84        ] 


the  Gardener  if  the  French  had  at  any  time 
obtained  possession  of  the  place,  and  he  assured 
me  that  they  had  not. 

The  garden  wall,  toward  the  grove,  where  the 
hottest  attack  was  made,  is  substantially  built 
of  brick,  nine  feet  high,  and  supported  with 
buttresses.  Our  men  made  holes  in  it  for  mus- 
quetry;  they  broke  the  buttresses  half-way 
down,  and  then  laid  planks  along  the  truncated 
tops,  so  as  to  form  a  rampart,  or  rather  plat- 
form;  and  when  any  of  the  French  who 
attempted  to  scale  the  wall  reached  the  top, 
they  bayonetted  them  from  below.  On  the 
skirts  of  the  grove,  a  little  way  from  the  entrance 
of  the  house,  the  bodies  of  six  hundred  French 
had  been  burnt,  and  the  remains  buried.  A 
hole,  like  a  rabbit's  bun-ow,  had  been  made  in 
this  heap ;  and  the  guide  raked  it  with  a  stick, 
to  prove  the  truth  of  his  story,  tho'  no  one 
would  have  disputed  it.  He  scraped  out  some 
ashes  and  the  calcined  bone  of  a  finger  before 
we  could  make  him  desist ;  and  a  perceptible 
smell  of  ammonia  came  from  the  burnt  animal 
remains  which  he  disturbed.  We  had  seen  the 
place  by  La  Haye  Sainte  (near  a  tree)  where 

[       86       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


General  Picton  fell.  Here  the  spot  was  pointed 
out  where  Major  Howard  was  killed ;  and  in 
the  garden  the  place  where  an  officer,  by  name 
Crawford  (I  think)  had  been  buried,  till  his 
father  came  from  Ireland  and  removed  the  body. 
In  one  place  the  wall  of  the  house,  for  about 
five  feet  in  a  perpendicular  line,  was  covered 
with  blood.  Some  poor  fellow  must  have  been 
knocked  to  pieces  against  it  by  a  cannon  ball. 

A  painter  might  have  found  many  pleasing 
subjects  here  before  the  battle ;  the  ruins  now 
would  afford  him  some  of  a  very  different  kind. 
Beneath  these  ruins  our  wounded,  who  had  been 
carried  into  the  house,  were  at  once  crushed 
and  buried.  Part  of  the  house  still  remains 
habitable,  and  to  this  the  Gardener's  wife  and 
children  have  returned.  The  Chapel  was  only 
half  ruined.  There  is  a  crucifix  in  it,  large  as 
life,  which  escaped  any  injury  from  the  shot, 
but  had  been  mutilated  by  some  of  our  men. 
When  I  expressed  my  regret  at  this,  the  Gar- 
dener said  it  was  ill  done,  but  he  said  it  mildly, 
and  without  any  apparent  feeling  of  anger  or 
indignation.  Perhaps  the  British  character 
never  was  so  highly  esteemed  in  any  part  of  the 

[        86        ] 


world  as  it  is  at  this  time  in  this  country.  I 
have  heard  no  other  instance  of  misconduct  in 
our  troops,  though  I  made  the  enquiry ;  and 
the  people  seem  as  much  conciliated  by  their 
good  discipline  and  inoffensive  deportment  as 
they  are  astonished  and  awed  by  their  courage. 
Tlie  pigeon  house  escaped  all  injury.  As  soon 
as  the  action  began  the  pigeons  took  flight — to 
the  forest  no  doubt ;  and  two  or  three  days 
afterwards,  when  they  saw  that  the  mischief 
was  over,  they  came  back  again. 

The  Prince  of  Orange  has  promised  to  repair 
all  the  damage  which  has  been  done  here.  The 
present  owner  of  Hougoumont  is  a  nobleman, 
who  resides  far  off,  and  wishes  to  sell  this  pro- 
perty. One  should  think  that  he  would  now 
rather  pride  himself  upon  possessing  it.  We 
met  his  tenant,  a  respectable  farmer  in  appear- 
ance, in  a  cart. 

In  the  orchard,  which  is  a  large  one  (not  less 
than  four  acres),  and  in  the  grove  and  garden, 
many  trees  have  had  their  branches  carried 
away  or  broken,  and  their  trunks  wounded ;  but 
except  in  these  marks,  neither  the  grounds  or 
garden  bore  any  vestiges  of  war.     The  flowers- 

[        87        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


were  in  blossom  and   the   fruit  on   the   trees. 
Indeed  over  the  whole  field  poppies  and  pansies 
were  in  bloom ;  you  saw  them  where  the  foot- 
steps of  the  cavalry  were  still  uneffaced,  and  in 
some  parts  upon  the  very  graves.     I  know  not 
whether  it  were  more  melancholy  or  consolatory 
to   observe   how   soon  these  lower  creatures  of 
nature   recovered   from   the   havoc   which  had 
been  committed  here.     Between  Hougoumont 
and  La  Haye  Sainte,  where  the  Prince  of  Orange 
was  wounded,  2000  bodies  are  buried.      Hats 
from  all  which  the  lace  has  been  stript,  caps, 
shoes,   belts,   and  such  things,  are   still   lying 
about  in  great  numbers ;  but  crows  and  v^tures 
are  not  so  active  after  a  battle  as  the  followers 
of  an  army.    When  Mr.  Werth  visited  the  field 
and  saw  it  in  its  recent  horrors,  all  the  dead 
horses  were  lying  on  their  backs,  with  their  feet 
stiff  up  in   the   air,   in   the   attitude   wherein 
they  had  been  placed  by  those  who  came  for 
their  shoes !     One  of  our  coachmen,  who  was 
there  two  days  after  the  action,  observed  that 
it  was  more  shocking  to  see  the  wounded  horses 
than  the  wounded  men,  because,  poor  things, 
they  had  no  will  of  their  own  or  knowledge  why 

[        88        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

they  were  thus  tormented.  Colonel  Miller  in 
like  manner  spoke  with  shuddering  of  the 
horses  running  about  on  three  legs  and  bleeding 
to  death.  But  these  are  thoughts  with  which 
a  soldier  must  not  trust  himself ;  and  he  endea- 
voured to  cover  the  feeling  which  it  gave  him 
with  a  forced  laugh. 

Edith  and  her  mother  each  picked  up  a  flint 
and  a  musquet  ball,  but  relics  of  this  kind  have 
been  diligently  gleaned  for  sale.  I  bought  a 
French  pistol  and  two  ornaments  of  the  French 
infantry  cap  (like  the  leaden  or  tin  ornaments 
of  a  coflin)  for  six  franks,  and  an  artillery  badge 
with  a  grape  shot,  for  one.  Some  of  our  party 
bought  swords  and  other  ornaments  at  about 
the  same  rate,  the  weapons  so  cheap  as  to  render 
the  supposition  that  they  had  been  bought  up 
at  Brussels  and  brought  hither  for  sale  perfectly 
absurd.  A  boy  on  the  preceding  day  had  found 
a  double  Napoleon  wrapt  in  paper.  Our 
guide  told  us  this  more  than  once,  and  as  often 
stoop'*d  to  look  among  the  stubble  or  grass  in 
hope  of  the  like  good  luck.  He  said  also  that 
an  English  General  who  was  wounded  near  La 
Haye  Sainte  had  hid  in  the  sand  bank  a  Img 

[        89        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

containing  200  Napoleons,  which  had  never 
been  found.  It  may  well  be  supposed  how 
much  search  this  idle  storv  has  occasioned.  The 
people,  he  said,  had  suffered  so  much  by  the 
destruction  of  their  crops  that  they  were  all 
ruined ;  but  they  had  since  been  made  rich  by 
the  English.  Well  indeed  has  it  been  for  them 
that  the  field  of  Waterloo  is  within  such  easy 
reach  of  England. 

The  Prussians  are  as  much  detested  here  as 
the  English  are  popular.  The  people  give  them 
their  due  as  soldiers,  and  say  that  they  came  in 
time,  for  the  English  could  not  much  longer  have 
supported  such  a  conflict ;  an  easy  error  this, 
for  persons  who  understood  nothing  of  what 
was  going  on,  except  their  own  danger.  But 
the  behaviour  of  the  Prussians  toward  the  inha- 
bitants is  represented  as  abominable :  nothing 
but  insolence,  violence  and  rapine.  They 
threatened  to  kill  our  guide's  father,  an  old 
man  above  seventy  years  of  age,  for  not  giving 
them  what  he  had  not  to  give.  This  guide  was 
a  man  whose  countenance,  manner,  and  gestures 
were  singularly  impressive.  His  exclamations 
of  astonishment  at  the  courage  of  the  allies  were 

[        90        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

as  passionate  as  they  were  frequent.    All  fought 
well,  he  said.     The  French  were  like  mad  dogs, 
they  raved  and  even  foamed  with  fury  when 
they  were  told  to  remember  Jena  and  Wagram. 
The  allies  all  fought  well,  and  the  English — 
"  Oh  mon  Dieu !  how  they  fought !    But  especi- 
ally the  Scotchmen,  those  men  without  breeches ; 
had  it  not  been  for  them  Mont  St.  Jean  would 
have  been  burnt ! "     To  him  it  was  evident  that 
the  preservation  of  Mont  St.  Jean  was  the  great 
object  of  the  victory.     He  was  very  angry  that 
Waterloo  should  give  name  to  the  battle ;  call 
it  Hougoumont,  he  said,  call  it  La  Belle  Alli- 
ance, or  La  Haye  Sainte,  or  Papelot,  or  Mont 
St.  Jean — anything  but  Waterloo  !      When  I 
told  him  that  I  would  give  it  its  proper  name  in 
England   he   seemed    perfectly   delighted,   and 
again  and  again  entreated  me  to  remember  this 
promise,  and  set  the  people  in  England  right. 
Misnamed    the  battle   certainly  has  been,  but 
Waterloo  is  a  word  so  well  suited  to  English 
ears  that  it  must  needs  prevail. 

A  wounded  Frenchman  who  was  placed  under 
the  surgeon's  care  at  Mont  St.  Jean  had  his  arm 
amputated ;  as  soon  as  the  operation  was  over 

[        91        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


he  asked  for  the  arm,  and  taking  the  dead  hand 
in  the  living  one  waved  it  over  his  head  and 
cried  "  Vive  Napoleon  !  "^  When  the  Guide  told 
us  this  anecdote,  he  said  he  would  have  killed 
him  if  he  had  been  present,  for  such  a  man  was 
not  fit  to  live.  I  was  silent  at  this,  knowing 
that  if  I  attempted  in  my  villainous  French  to 
modify  his  zeal,  I  should  only  have  disturbed  a 
just  and  natural  feeling.  For  the  feelings  of 
this  honest  Brabanter  were  all  straight-forward  ; 
he  took  them  as  they  came,  and  troubled  him- 
self with  none  of  those  sophistries  which  make 
the  worse  appear  the  better  reason  ;  the  road 
from  his  heart  to  his  lips  was  short,  and  on  a 
right  line.  More  than  once  he  exclaimed  about 
the  blood  which  had  been  shed,  ciying  out, 
*'  And  all  for  one  man  !  ce  coquin !  *".  Very 
anxious  he  was  to  be  assured  that  we  had  the 
tyrant  safe;  but  he  repeatedly  said  it  would 
have  been  better  to  have  put  him  to  death — 
that  this  ought  to  have  been  done,  and  that  he 
himself  would  gladly  with  his  own  hand  have 
performed  that  act  of  justice.  And  then  he 
told  us  how  his  house  had  been  filled  with 
wounded  men  ;  that  it  was  nothing  but  sawing 

[        92        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

off  legs,  and  sawing  off  arms.  "  Oh  mon  Dieu  ! 
and  all  for  one  man !  Wliy  did  not  you  put 
him  to  death.?""  In  this  proper  feeling  it 
always  ended.  It  was  eight  days  before  all  the 
wounded  were  removed  to  Brussels. 

I  was  glad  to  hear  him  speak  with  enthusiasm 
of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  whose  wound  has  been 
worth  something,  and  has  given  him  a  place  in 
the  opinion  of  the  people  which  may  in  no 
slight  degree  tend  to  establish  an  insecure 
crown.  But  mischievous  spirits  are  at  work 
here.  The  people  here  asked  us  if  it  were  true 
that  there  was  to  be  no  more  mass.  We  assured 
them  that  this  was  an  abominable  falsehood, 
circulated  for  wicked  purposes,  and  that  the 
intention  was  for  every  man  to  worship  in  his 
own  way,  leaving  the  old  established  religion  of 
the  country  untouched.  They  believed  us  and 
said  that  this  was  as  it  ought  to  be.  They 
were  not  French,  they  said;  they  never  had 
been  French ;  they  were  Brabanters ;  and  now 
they  belonged  to  Holland.  "  No,"*^  I  replied, "  you 
do  not  belong  to  Holland,  Holland  rather  be- 
longs to  you ;  for  the  seat  of  Government  is 
with  you,  and  you  are  the  richer  and  better 

[        93        ] 


JOURNAL    ut-    A    TOUR 

part.  Singly  you  were  each  too  weak  ;  together 
you  will  be  strong  enough  to  stand."  They 
observed  that  they  were  more  English  than 
French.  I  answered  that  they  and  the  English 
were  children  of  one  stock  ;  nations  of  the  same 
family,  who,  by  inclination  and  interest,  ought 
to  be  allies  and  friends.  This  conversation 
past  while  we  were  crossing  the  open  fields 
from  Hougoumont  to  La  Belle  Alliance,  whither 
the  two  carriages  had  proceeded  along  the  high 
road. 

La  Belle  Alliance,  where  Blucher  and  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  met  after  the  victory,  is  a 
poor  farm  house,  almost  as  much  worse  than  La 
Haye  Sainte,  as  that  dwelling  of  a  substancial 
yeoman  is  inferior  to  the  Chateau  de  Hougou- 
mont. Since  the  action  it  has  been  converted 
into  a  public  house,  the  owners  having  >visely 
profited  by  the  opportunity  which  Fortune 
offered  them.  On  the  Sunday  before  our  visit, 
the  Emperor  Alexander  dined  there,  and  threw 
Napoleons  among  the  people,  whereby  he  pur- 
chased much  popularity  at  small  cost.  The 
woman  of  the  house  was  near  the  hour  of  her 
delivery,  when  the  approach  of  the  two  armies 

[        i»4        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

drove  her  into  the  woods ;  she  has  since  had 
twins.  There  is  a  well  behind  the  house ;  twice 
I  dropt  stones  into  it,  and  each  time  dis- 
tinctly counted  twelve  before  the  sound  reached 
the  water.  The  water  is  said  to  be  good,  but  it 
was  not  clear  enough  in  the  bucket  for  me  to  be 
induced  to  taste  it.  Behind  the  well,  near  a 
mined  outhouse,  a  Frenchman  is  buried  in  a 
dunghill,  and  the  bone  of  one  leg  with  the  shoe 
on  is  lying  above  ground,  as  if  it  had  been 
carried  off  by  the  shot  which  killed  him,  and 
left  out  when  he  was  buried,  either  from  negli- 
gence or  perhaps  as  a  slight !  Here  we  had 
bread  and  cheese,  wine  and  fruit.  The  cheese, 
called  Bullets  from  their  size  and  shape,  rich 
and  good  tho'  very  odorous  and  strong. 
From  hence  to  Genap  is  two  short  leagues,  over 
an  open  and  uninteresting  country.  We  past 
by  the  remains  of  a  few  houses  which,  it  was 
said,  the  enemy  had  burnt  in  their  retreat. 
Burnt  the  houses  certainly  had  been,  but  the 
French  when  they  retreated  were  in  too  much 
haste  to  lose  any  time  in  making  bonfires  by  the 
way.  The  mischief  had  probably  been  done 
before  the  action. 

[        95        ] 


i 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


Genap   is   a   poor   town,   about   the   size  of 
Keswick.     We  were  in  an  Inn  called  Le  Roy 
d'Espagne,  from  which  appellation  it  may  be 
inferred  that  the  house  was  an  Inn  before  the 
Succession  War.    But  whatever  may  be  if  s  age, 
it  has  now  become  a  memorable  place.     Welling- 
ton had  his  headquarters   here  on    the   17th, 
Buonaparte  on  the  18th,  Blucher  on  the  19th. 
And   to   this  house  it  was  that  the  Duke  of 
Brunswick's  body  was  brought,  and  laid  on  a 
table  in  the  room  opposite  to  that  which  we 
occupied.      They    told    us   that    the    D.    of 
Wellington  embraced   the  body,  which  is  not 
very  likely,  and  that  he  wept  over  it  and  called 
the  Duke  his  friend  and  his  brother-in-arms. 
But  these  things  are  not  according  to  the  Eng- 
lish character  nor  to  that   of  the   individual. 
The  Brunswick    officers  knelt  round  the  body 
and  vowed  vengeance.     Geneml  Duhesme  was 
cut  down  by  a  Brunswicker  at  the  Inn-door, 
where  the  sabre  has  left  some  of  its  marks  on 
the  side  posts,  and  the  blood  stains  are  not  yet 
effaced.      For  fuller  justice,  the  stroke  should 
have  come  from  a  Catalan  hand.     It  was  in  this 
town  too  that  the  Comte  de  Loban,  General 


[ 


96 


] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Mouton,  became  a  lost  mutton.  There  are 
bullet  holes  over  our  parlour  fire  place,  in 
our  bedroom  cieling,  and  thro'  our  bedroom 
door.  The  Prussians  were  not  in  a  humour 
that  night  for  making  prisoners,  and  there  had 
been  fighting  in  the  houses  as  well  as  in  the 
street. 

The  Inn  is  much  better  than  would  be  found 
in   England  in  so  mean  and   inconsiderable  a 
place.     We  had  a  comfortable  wood  fire.     Here 
I  should  think  coal  must  be  the  cheaper  fuel ; 
but  there  is  probably  a  prej  udice  against  it,  or 
a  pride  in  using  the  cleaner  materials,  as  there 
long  continued  to  be  in  London.     The  kitchen 
range  was  peculiar  and  excellently  convenient. 
A  round  brazen  stone  holds  the  fire  nearly  in 
the  middle  of  the  room,  and  the  funnel,  which 
communicates  with  the  wall,  is  broad  enough  for 
large  dishes  to  stand  on  along  its  whole  length, 
and  has  under  it  in  one  place  a  sort  of  square 
oven,  or  cupboard,  suspended  for  what  is  here 
called  roasting.     The  fire  place  in  the  bedroom 
was  unlike  anything  I  had  seen  of  the  kind ;  it 
is  circular  and  concave,  like  an  oven,  and  at  the 
bottom  of  this  circle  is  a  small  square  grate  with 

[        97       ]  o 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


perpendicular  bars.  Our  sitting  room  is  papered 
with  a  French  paper,  containing  little  land- 
scapes in  good  taste,  and  a  very  rich  border.  The 
lower  part  was  covered  with  a  singular  pattern, 
of  tea  and  coffee  services  set  out  upon  a  table. 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Wednesday^  Oct  4. 

We  had  a  dismal  night ;  not  from  the  recol- 
lections of  the  day,  or  the  feelings  which  the 
house  itself  excited  with  its   bullet-holes  and 
bloodstains,  and  marks  of  the  sabre — we  were 
fatigued  enough  to  have  slept  soundly  in  spite 
of  all  this.     But  all  night  long  we  were  dis- 
turbed by  the  almost  continual  passing  of  heavy 
coal    waggons,   rattling    like    fire    engines    in 
London,  only  with  a  slower  and  heavier  sound. 
The  whole  artillery  of  an  army  could  not  more 
effectually  have  prevented  sleep;  and  by  way 
of  lighter  music  in  the  intervals  we  had  the 
cracking  of  the  whips  (every  crack  loud  as  a 
pistol   shot)   of  all   the    posts  who  pass  thro' 
this  town. to  or  from  Brussels.     The  coachman 
told  us  yesterday  that  this  was  an  assez  bonne 

[       98       ] 


auherge;  but  this  morning  he  asked  us  if  we 
had  slept  ?  and  then  told  us  that  nobody  ever 
slept  at  Genap ;  it  was  impossible  to  sleep  there, 
because  of  the  coal  waggons  and  the  posts. 

There  is  a  Raven  in  the  yard  here,  fifty  years 
old— the  first  which  Edith  May  had  ever  seen, 
except  in  the  air.  The  coachman  tells  us  we 
shall  see  one  at  Maestricht  which  has  been 
there  an  hundred  and  ten  years.  The  fellow 
here  put  his  head  thro'  the  bars  of  his  house 
as  if  inviting  me  to  caress  him.  I  scratched  his 
head,  much  to  his  satisfaction  as  it  appeared, 
for  about  a  minute ;  and  then  the  rascal  made 
a  stroke  at  my  hand,  which  I  was  lucky  enough 
to  avoid. 

Mr.  Na^sh  and  I  walked  thro'  the  town. 
In  one  of  the  shops  we  saw  the  common  mouse 
trap  of  the  country,  which  is  even  simpler  in  its 
construction  than  oun. ;  flour  is  used  as  the 
bait,  and  it  is  so  placed  that  in  getting  at  it 
the  mouse  brings  down  a  broad  block  of  wood 
which  crushes  him.  I  asked  the  price  of  a 
showy  handkerchief,  intending  to  buy  it  as 
a  curiosity  for  good  old  Mrs.  Wilson;  the 
woman    in  the   shop   absurdly   supposed   that 

I       99       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


I  could  not  possibly  mean  to  purchase  it,  and 
therefore  said  that  the  price  was  ten  francs,  the 
probable  value  being  two ;  so  she  disappointed 
me  and  lost  a  customer. 

At  the  end  of  the  town  is  the  bridge  where 
Buonaparte  was  so  long  impeded  in  his  flight ; 
so  insignificant  a  one  it  is,  that  but  for  this 
circumstance  we  should  have  passed  it  without 
notice,  and  perhaps  hardly  have  known  that  a 
bridge  was  there.    The  Dyle  is  a  mere  ditch,  the 
water  being  at  this  time  scarcely  sole-deep,  and 
the  width  not  above  ten  or  twelve  feet.     We 
were  told  that  the  mills  had  now  drawn  off  the 
water,  and  that  it  was  full  at  the  time  of  the 
battle.     But  however  full  it  might  be,  it  never 
could   impede  any   men   who   were   flying   for 
their  lives,  if  they  could  find  the  way  to  its 
banks.     Some  houses  come  close  to  it,  near  the 
bridge,  both  on  the  right  and  left,  and  thus  it 
was  that  the  difficulty  was  occasioned. 

The  best  point  of  view  for  this  little  town  is 
looking  back  upon  it,  a  little  while  after  you 
have  crost  the  bridge.  Not  that  it  is  any- 
where picturesque,  but  being  a  memorable  place 
on  other  accounts,  as  well  as  for  its  relation  with 

[        100       ] 


I 


■■i 


I" 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

these  late  events,  it  is  desirable  that  we  should 
have  views  of  it ;  and  in  this  direction  there  is 
a  church  which  comes  in  well. 

A  straight  and  uninteresting  league  of  paved 
road  brought  us  to  Les  Quatre  Bras,  or  what  in 
English  we  should  call  the  Cross  Roads.  This 
having  been  the  scene  of  so  severe  a  contest  I 
thought  it  worth  while  to  copy  what  the  direct- 
ing post  bears,  close  to  the  house  into  which 
the  Duke  of  Brunswick  was  first  carried : 

f  de  p*^  ver  St.  Doules 
2/4  de  p*^^  ver  Genappe 
2/4  de  p*^  ver  Merbais 
2/6  de  p*®  ver  Frasne 

This  house  is  at  the  farther  comer,  on  the 
right  hand.  Its  owner,  a  fat  and  j oily  Brabanter, 
kept  close  in  the  stable  during  the  action,  till 
the  balls  came  in  so  fast  that  he  thought  it 
prudent  to  seek  some  safer  place.  This  man 
remembered  the  last  time  the  English  were 
here,  and  remembered  it  with  some  pride  and 
pleasure ;  for  the  Duke  of  York  slept  in  this 
house  upon  the  owner's  bed,  and  gave  him  a 
Louis  d'Or  for  the  inconvenience  to  which  he 

[       101       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

had  been  put.  Nothing  had  been  taken  from 
him,  for  the  Duke's  people  brought  their  food, 
and  thus  they  left  a  good  report  behind  them ; 
much  better  than  the  Prussians  have  left  at  this 
time,  for  herc  and  at  Genappe,  heartily  as  the 
French  are  hated,  the  Prussians  are  spoken  of 
with  equal  bitterness ;  perhaps  with  more, 
because  they  came  in  the  character  of  friends 
and  acted  as  rapaciously  as  enemies. 

We  were  told  of  a  French  Officer  who  would 
have  been  taken  prisoner  here  if  he  had  not 
provided  himself  with  a  white  cockade  in  his 
pocket,  and  attempted  to  put  it  on  when  for- 
tune failed  him  on  the  three-coloured  side ; 
when  this  was  perceived  he  was  cut  down  as  a 
fellow  who  was  true  to  neither  party :  a  con- 
clusion which,  tho'  natural  enough  in  hot 
blood,  would  but  ill  bear  revision ;  for  it  seems 
much  more  probable  that  he  was  sincerely 
attached  to  the  Bourbon  cause,  and  meant  to 
take  the  fii-st  opportunity  of  joining  it. 

Our  jolly  Brabanter  expatiated  in  praise  of 
the  Prince  of  Orange ;  and  here  (as  at  Mont 
St.  Jean)  his  youth  was  accounted  among  his 
merits  ; — so  handsome  he  was  ! — and  so  brave  ! 

[        102        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

"Oh,  he  fought  like  a  Devil  on  horseback."" 
But  when  he  spoke  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, he  said,  "  Sacre  Dieu !  What  a  man  is 
that ! ""  and  putting  his  finger  to  his  eye,  "  He 
sees  everywhere."  Here  too  we  found  the 
same  disposition  to  claim  affinity  with  the 
English. 

The  place  where  the  Scotch  suffered  so 
severely  is  just  at  the  opposite  corner,  and 
there  are  the  most  graves — too  hastily  made. 
In  one  the  bare  ribs  of  a  skeleton  were  exposed ; 
dogs  or  swine,  I  believe,  had  opened  it.  Mrs. 
Vardon's  maid,  Mary,  and  William,  their  man, 
saw  another  in  which  the  worms  were  at  work  ; 
they  wished  to  persuade  themselves  that  it  was 
the  body  of  a  horse  which  had  been  thus  negli- 
gently covered ;  for  myself  I  turned  away,  not 
chusing  wilfully  to  look  upon  these  loathsome 
features  of  mortality.  The  Duke  of  Brunswick 
fell  a  little  in  advance  of  these  graves.  The 
rage,  the  absolute  rabies  of  the  French  in  this 
action,  had  made  a  deep  impression  upon  our 
friend:  they  cursed  the  English  while  they 
were   fighting,   and   curst    the    precision  with 

which  their  grape  shot  were  fired,  which  the 

[       103       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


man  said  was  neither  too  high  nor  too  low,  but 
struck  right  in  the  middle. 

The  great  Golgotha  is  opposite  this  man's 
house.  At  the  corner  diagonally  opposite  to 
his  dwelling  is  a  bam  bearing  many  marks  of 
cannon  shot.  Nothing  was  offered  for  sale 
here;  the  Waterlooers  not  going  beyond  La 
Belle  Alliance. 

Here  we  left  the  Charleroy  road,  and  struck 
to  the  left.     Koster,  Mr.  Vardon  and  I  walked 
on.    Caps,  shoes,  &c.,  were  lying  by  the  wayside, 
and  there  were  patches  of  bare  earth  which  we 
did    not    immediately   recognise   as   so    many 
graves,   common    or   solitary.     One  was  open, 
and   the  greater  part  of  a  skeleton  exposed  ; 
this  seems  to  have  excited  a  proper  feeling,  and 
many  of  the   nearest  graves  were  secured   by 
heaps  of  stones  from  the  animals  which  had 
uncovered  it. 

The  country  became  more  hilly  and  varied. 
About  three  miles  from  the  Cross  Roads,  the 
greater  part  having  been  a  gradual  ascent,  we 
came  to  a  village  where,  from  the  Church  Tower, 
Buonaparte,  as  we  were  informed,  directed  the 
attack  upon  the  Prussians.     Here,  by  advice  of 

[        104       ] 


the  peasants,  we  left  the  carriages,  which  were 
to  proceed  to  Sombref  and  wait  for  us  at  a 
house  which  they  called  Salade,  imless  that  were 
the  name  of  the  person  who  keeps  it ;  one  of 
the  coachmen  saying  that  if  we  should  not  be 
satisfied  with  our  entertainment  there  we  might 
cut  off  his  head. 

The  young  man  who  now  guided  us  had  been 
carried,  with  his  father,  before  Buonaparte  to 
give  intelligence.     He  led  us  to  the  village  of 
Brie,  or  St.  Brie,  near  which,  according  to  his 
account,  the  bloodiest  part  of  the  action  had 
been  carried  on,  by  the  windmill  of  St.  Amand. 
Graves  enough  were  visible  to  show  that  the 
slaughter  there  had  been  very  great ;  and  we 
were  told  stories  of  the  woimded  which,  instead 
of  repeating,  I  would  gladly,  if  it  were  possible, 
forget.      All  the  houses  here  were  filled  with 
wounded,  and  there  was  no  medical  aid.     Many 
beggars  beset  us,  but  nothing  was  offered  for 
sale.     Caps,  shoes,  and  French  cards  were  lying 
about  the  ploughed  fields  ;  for  here,  as  on  the 
other  scene  of  battle,  the  surface  of  the  earth 
had  lost  all  other  traces  of  the  tragedy— almost, 
it  might  be  said,  as  compleatly  and  as  soon  as 

[        105        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


the  sea  loses  all  vestiges  of  a  tempest  in  which 
whole  fleets  are  wrecked.  From  St.  Amand  to 
Ligny  is  nearly  a  mile,  and  the  intermediate 
space,  an  open  field,  is  well  manured  with  the 
dead.  According  to  the  guide's  account,  the 
French  lost  more  than  the  Prussians ;  and  the 
carnage  on  both  sides  was  enormous.  The 
rivulet,  as  it  is  called,  runs  from  St.  Amand  to 
Ligny  ;  it  is  too  insignificant  a  stream  to  have 
any  name  upon  the  spot,  tho'  a  stream  it  is. 
In  many  places  a  child  might  step  across  it,  and 
I  think  it  was  nowhere  ancle-deep.  But  the 
battle  was  fought  in  a  wet  season,  and  the  guide 
observed  that  the  Prussians  might  have  derived 
some  advantage  from  the  water-course  if  they 
had  bestowed  a  little  labour  in  widening  it. 
You  cross  it  by  a  bridge  near  the  Castle,  which, 
as  you  advance  in  this  direction,  is  at  the 
extremity  of  the  village,  on  the  right  hand. 
The  Castle  is  a  very  picturesque  object,  with  a 
moat  and  bridge.  It  was  in  ruins  before  the 
battle,  but  bears  marks  of  having  been  fitted  up 
as  a  residence  some  century  ago,  when  the  long 
avenue  was  planted.  In  one  of  the  older  rooms 
there  is  a  circular  opening  in  the  middle,  like 

[        106        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

the  mouth  of  a  mattamore ;  but  this  was  the 
entrance  of  a  dungeon.  The  court  had  been 
converted  into  a  farmyard,  with  substantial 
buildings  round  it.  The  whole  of  these  were 
burnt  during  the  conflict,  and  the  livestock 
perished  in  the  flames  !  In  front  of  the  village 
on  this  side,  which  is  to  say,  at  the  back  of  the 
street,  are  large  quarries  of  gi'anite,  from  whence 
fine  blocks  used  to  be  sent  in  great  quantities 
for  the  public  buildings  at  Paris.  Many  are 
now  lying  there  for  which  there  is  no  market. 
A  gi'eat  many  houses  have  been  burnt;  they 
are  all  built  of  stone,  but,  unhappily,  were 
covered  with  thatch.  The  people  here  all 
agreed  that  the  Prussians  would  have  kept  their 
ground  if  they  had  not  been  burnt  out.  They 
were  busily  at  work,  at  almost  every  house,  in 
repairing  the  mischief  which  had  been  done. 
Ligny  is  a  pretty  village,  and  before  its  disasters 
must  have  borne  a  general  appearance  of  sub- 
stantial comfort. 

We  had  walked  a  long  while  on  a  hot  day, 
and  cast  longing  eyes  upon  the  grapes  and  pears 
which  were  growing  against  the  houses  that  had 
escaped  destruction.     Our  guide,  at  our  desire, 

[       107        ] 


4 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


entered  one,  and  requested  that  the  owner  would 
have  the  kindness  to  sell  a  little  fruit  to  some 
strangers.  We  were  immediately  invited  in, 
and  the  mistress  of  the  house,  an  old  lady, 
meanly  drest,  i-eceived  us  in  her  kitchen  with 
a  native  politeness  and  genuine  hospitality 
which  I  cannot  praise  more  than  it  deserves. 
Grapes  and  pears  were  brought,  and  coffee 
offered  us.  Her  name  sounded  like  Le  Brun, 
but  even  in  our  own  language  it  is  not  easy 
to  ascertain  names  by  merely  hearing  them. 
Buonaparte  had  been  in  her  house  after  the 
battle,  and  she  and  her  family  were  in  the  cellar. 
Tho'  the  house  had  escaped,  she  had  suffered 
greatly,  Vandamme,  more  siro,  having  pillaged 
the  whole  place.  This  General,  according  to 
every  account,  is  one  of  the  vilest  wretches  in 
the  French  army.  The  Prussians  are  not  dis- 
liked here,  for  an  obvious  reason :  their  beha- 
viour in  action  had  excited  admiration,  and 
their  sufferings  had  excited  compassion  ;  their 
deportment  in  peace  there  had  been  no  oppor- 
tunity of  observing.  The  French  were  cordially 
execrated,  and  Buonaparte  was  spoken  of  as  the 
worst  of  criminals.     Our  guide  wondered   and 

[        108        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

regretted  that  he  had  not  been  put  to  death, 
and  declared  that  he  would  willingly  kill  him 
with  his  own  hand.  I  am  fully  persuaded  that 
the  execution  of  that  Tyrant  would  have  been 
the  most  useful  act  of  justice  that  ever  was 
performed. 

In  this  kitchen  where  we  were  so  hospitably 
entertained,  all  payment  in  any  shape  being 
refused,  fire-balls  were  used,  composed  of  clay 
and  finely-pounded  coal.  The  common  dress 
of  the  men  is  a  short  blue  smock  frock,  girt 
round  the  waist ;  it  is  clean  and  commodious, 
and  looks  well. 

Our  Guide  asked  the  same  questions  as  his 
predecessor  concerning  the  state  of  religion 
under  the  new  government,  and  expressed  great 
confidence  in  the  young  prince  because  he  had 
lived  so  much  in  England,  a  country  of  which 
the  people  here  evidently  think  as  they  ought 
to  do.  Everything,  he  said,  had  been  reviving 
here  before  Buonaparte  returned  from  Elba. 
His  father  had  taken  the  barriere  at  that  time, 
and  now,  when  everything  was  at  a  stand,  the 
Government  in  consideration  had  remitted  a 
quarter's  payment ;  and  he  had  no  doubt  this 

[        109       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

indulgence  would  be  extended  if  the  times  did 
not  mend.  He  spoke  very  reasonably  of  the 
loss  which  had  been  sustained.  It  fell  heavy 
where  it  fell,  but  it  had  only  been  partial.  The 
greater  part  of  the  countiy  had  not  suffered 
anything  ;  and  if  an  additional  contribution  were 
levied  upon  the  whole  department  to  relieve 
the  sufferers,  it  would  fall  lightly  upon  all. 

We  were  told  that  the  Prussians  call  Blucher 
Le  Guidon^  the  Banner,  because  he  is  always  at 
their  head  and  in  the  hottest  fire. 

Wells  are  numerous  here,  and  indeed  all  the 
way  from  Brussels.  Their  number  is  a  sure 
indication  of  wealth.  They  would  not  be  so 
frequent  and  so  near  each  other  unless  the 
inhabitants  could  well  afford  to  sink  them. 

We  walked  across  the  fields  to  Sombref,  about 
a  mile  and  half — half  an  hour's  walk  at  a  brisk 
Lady's  pace — following  the  course  of  the  brook. 
We  went  thro'  the  village,  and  on  a  hill  on 
the  other  side  came  to  the  aiiberge  which  was 
kept  by  the  niece  of  the  old  Lady  to  whom  we 
felt  ourselves  so  much  obliged.  The  mistress 
was  a  newly  married  woman  of  seven  or  eight 
and     twenty,     of    striking    countenance    and 

[        110       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


manners.  Such  a  village  in  England  would 
have  afforded  nothing  better  than  alehouse  fare. 
The  house  here  was  not  better  than  a  respect- 
able alehouse,  but  it  supplied  us  with  a  good 
dinner,  good  wine  (better,  indeed,  than  we  had 
found  at  Brussels),  and  a  good  desert.  For 
this,  however,  we  were  charged  dearly — 54 
franks.  We  were  nine  in  number,  besides  two 
servants  and  two  guides.  Everywhere  abroad 
Englishmen  are  made  to  pay  for  the  wealth  of 
their  country,  and  here  we  fared  so  well,  and 
were  served  with  such  cheerful  alacrity,  that  we 
were  not  disposed  to  complain. 

Proceeding  towards  Namur  we  past  a  very 
large  waggon  made  of  basket  work.  Saint 
boxes  are  frequent  in  this  country  ;  I  call  them 
so  because  they  are  shaped  like  watch-boxes. 
The  Saint  is  generally  a  little  doll  in  a  nich, 
behind  a  glass,  and  a  grate.  The  field  pigs 
which  we  have  seen  are  lean  and  lank  as  grey- 
hounds—miserable-looking wretches.  Consider- 
ing how  easily  pigs  are  fed,  it  is  difficult  to 
understand  how  these  people  contrive  to  starve 
them— unless  they  themselves  eat  what  would 
go  to  the  pigs  in  England. 

[         111        ] 


f 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

Beyond  Sombref  there  is  a  fine  chateau  to  the 
right,  seated  among  woods,  with  a  stream  at  the 
bottom,  but  too  far  from  the  road  to  be  seen 
distinctly.  A  pretty  village  lies  on  the  road, 
where  this  stream  crosses  it,  and  close  by  the 
bridge  is  a  Chateau  on  the  left  with  fine  grounds. 
The  female  inhabitants  were  at  the  windows, 
looking  at  us  with  as  much  curiosity  as  we  felt 
towards  them. 

Evening  closed  in  before  we  reached  Namur, 
and  thus  we  lost  the  approach  to  that  city. 
The  lamps  here  are  suspended  across  to  the 
street,  according  to  the  French  custom.  After 
driving  thro"  streets  of  no  very  inviting 
appearance,  we  stopt  at  the  Hotel  d'Hars- 
camp.  The  outside  is  the  gable  end  of  a  large 
house  without  windows,  and  the  gates  were  shut ; 
this  had  a  doleful  appearance  while  the  questions 
respecting  beds  were  going  on ;  the  conference, 
however,  ended  in  having  the  gates  opened, 
and  we  then  drove  thro**  one  large  court  into 
another.  There  was  only  light  enough  for 
seeing  a  church  tower  close  at  hand,  which  had 
a  very  picturesque  appearance  in  the  obscurity. 
A  boy  waylaid  me  at  the  door  of  the  house  and 

[        112        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


1 


proffered  his  services  as  a  pimp — such  are  the 
manners  of  these  countries  !     But  if  such  offers 
were  always  answered  with  an  admonitory  male- 
diction by  foreigners  they  would  certainly  not 
so  frequently  be  made.     We  were  ushered  into 
an    excellent    room— the   paper  represented  a 
landscape  of  the  country,  with  quite  a  scenic 
effect,  and  as  some  person  was  singing  in  an 
adjoining  room,  the   intermediate  door  being 
open,  Edith  May  observed    that    it  was   like 
being  at  a  play.     The  room  has  some  singularly 
handsome  pieces  of  furniture,  of  the  wood  which 
they  call  acajow,  and  which  resembles  the  very 
finest   mahogany,  with    white  marble  tops;   a 
carpet  cloth  for  the  table,  and  the  room  itself 
was  carpeted,  the  only  one  which  we  found  thus 
covered  during  our  whole  journey. 


Thursday,  Oct,  5. 

This  house  had  been  the  residence  of  a  Lady 
of  rank  and  large  possessions,  who  bequeathed 
it  to  some  charitable  institution,  and  by  that 
institution  it  is  let  for  an  Hotel.     The  house  is 

[        113        ]  H 


fl 


•^. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


a  fine  one — 25  stairs  in  one  flight  lead  to  the 
first  floor,  23  to  the  second.  The  court  which 
we  first  entered  is  full  of  orange  trees  and  other 
ornamental  shrubs,  having  nasturcians  between 
them,  which  are  now  in  profuse  blossom,  hang- 
ing from  vase  to  vase.  There  is  a  canary  bird 
here  so  tame  that  it  flies  about  the  court, 
and  goes  about  on  the  head  of  one  of  the 
waiters,  and  pitches  familiarly  upon  any  person's 
shoulder ;  thus  it  did  to  Edith  May,  and  thus 
we  were  told  it  had  done  to  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  who  was  exceedingly  pleased  at 
this  mark  of  confidence. 

The  wash-hand-basons  here  are  called  dishes, 
and  we  had  proof  that  they  are  used  for  both 
purposes :  one  of  the  Indies  asking  for  a  second 
bason,  was  told  that  the  sallad  should  be  taken 
out  of  it  for  her.  llie  same  sort  of  beds  we 
have  found  everywhere,  except  at  Bruges.  They 
are  placed  against  the  wall  sideways,  and  a  half 
circle  of  iron  is  fixed  in  the  wall  at  a  great 
height  for  the  curtains.  The  bedroom  floors 
are  uncarpeted  and  unclean.  The  doors  and 
locks  everywhere  clumsy,  almost  as  clumsy  as  in 
Portugal.     We  were  annoyed  all  night  by  the 

[        114       ] 


'■1 
■I. 


'i 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


clocks  and  church-bells;  the  nine  o'clock  bell 
seemed  close  at  our  ears,  and  a  more  dolorous 
sound  I  never  remember  to  have  heard.  I  told 
the  waiter  in  the  morning  that  this  cloches  was 
a  bad  neighbour;  and  he  smiled  and  agreed 
with  me. 

Before    the   rest   of  the   paiiy   made    their 
appearance  one  of  our  coachmen  led  me  to  the 
bridge,  as  if  impatient  that  I  should  see  some  of 
the  fine  parts  of  the  city.     There  is  a  bridge 
over  the  Sambre,  some   fifty  yards  above  the 
point  where  it  falls  into  the  Meuse ;  here,  look- 
ing up  the  river,  the  view  is  most  singular.     It 
is  confined  for  some  distance  between  the  back 
part  of  some  old  streets,  and  from  every  house 
an  apparatus  for  fishing  was  suspended,  such  as 
we  saw  at  Ostend  and  Brussels.     A  mill  of  some 
kind  stretches  half  across  the  stream ;  and  farther, 
on  the  left,  are  the  heights  with  the  ruins  of  the 
Castle.     My  guide,  leaving  those  ruins  for  a 
second   visit  when  the  whole  party  should  be 
collected,  took  me  round  the  heights    on  the 
town-side  to  the  walk  by  the  Meuse  and  the 
bridge,  a  less  singular  but  much  finer  view  ;  the 
heights,  the  ruins,  and  the  course  of  the  river 

[       115       ] 


JOURNAL  OF 


TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


beyond,  between  gardens  and  viUas,  forming  a 
prospect  of  extraordinary  richness  and  beauty. 
He  told  me  that  some  of  those  gardens  were 
places  where  parties  went  in  summer. 

After  breakfast  we  took  a  Commissumaire,  as 
they  call  the  porters  and  lacquies  in  this  country, 
and  he  led  us  up  the  heights,  on  the  side  of  the 
Sambre,  under  the  ruins  of  the  Castle.     Thence 
we  had  an  admirable  view  of  the  junction  of  the 
rivers,  the  city,  and  the  vale  down  which  the 
Sambre  flows.     Having  reached  the  summit,  we 
had  then  a  view  of  the  bridge  and  the  Meuse. 
The  rich  autumnal  tints  of  the  wild  part  of  the 
landscape  immediately  on   the   right  (towards 
Dinant)  blended    most    beautifully   with    the 
darker  green  of  the  cultivated  groves  and  gar- 
dens, which  reached  to  the  skirts  of ,  this  un- 
reclaimed ground.     The  heights  on  which  we 
stood,  with  a  river  on  both  sides,  reminded  us 
a  little  of  Durham  ;  the  Meuse  above  the  bridge 
a  little  of  the  Thames  at  Richmond,  tho'  it 
wanted   (especially   on   the   farther  bank)  the 
luxuriant  foliage  which  makes  the  view  from 
Richmond  Hill   unequalled   in   its  kind.      An 
islet  in  the  Meuse  much  resembles  that  in  the 

[       116       ] 


i 


Thames  which  fronts  you  from  Richmond  Hill, 
and  on  which  I  have  so  often  wished  to  see  a 
grove  of  poplars,  as  the  only  improvement  (and 
a  very  gieat  one  it  would  be)  of  which  that 
scene  is  capable. 

We  returned   along   the    summit  thro'  the 
ruins,  where  an  artist  might  find  employment 
for  many  days.     This  must  certainly  have  been 
one   of   the    strongest    fortresses    in    Europe. 
There  is  a  large  open  cistern,  which  seems  to 
have  been   formed   by    blowing   up   the   rock, 
and   thus  enlarging  a   natural    hollow.      You 
descend  by  some  15  or  20  steps.     The  water  is 
green,  and  probably  has  no  other  source  than 
the  ruins.     How  different  from  that  delightful 
mountain  cistern  of  the  purest  water  in   the 
Moorish  Castle  at  Cintra.     A  few  habitations 
have  been  mn  up  among  the  ruins.     The  exca- 
vations,   arches,   walls,   towers,    and    frequent 
steps  make  this  a  most  picturesque  place.     But 
in  descending  into  the  town  there  was  work  for 
the  scavenger  as  well  as  the  artist      All  the 
perfumes  of  Arabia  could  not  have  prevailed 
over    the    stench   which    proceeded    from    its 
defilements. 

[       117       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


I  should  think  this  fortress  could  only  have 
been  reduced  by  famine. 

This  is  the  first  place  which  we  have  seen  in 
a  fine  situation,  but  the  situation  and  the  ruins 
are  all  that  Namur  can  boast.     The  City  itself 
is    without    beauty   of  any    kind.     The    Low 
Country  stile  of  building  does  not  extend  so 
far ;  the  houses  are  totally  unornamented,  and 
the  Churches  have  neither  the  charm  of  antiquity 
nor   of  magnificence.      It   is  a  manufacturing 
town,  chiefly  of  cutlery ;  and,  of  course,  both 
the  place  and  the  people  are  dirty.     I  bought 
Valentine    and    Orson    and    Les    Quatre    fols 
d^Aymon,  both  printed  at  Lisle  in  close  type 
and  on  coarse  paper,  for  popular  sale.     Here 
and  at  Brussels  a  deer's  foot  is  sometimes  used 
as  the  handle  of  a  bell ;   and  the  Apothecaries 
have  usually  a  stag  s  horns  over  their  door.  % 

We  left  Namur  by  the  direct  road  to  France, 
over  the  bridge;  but  presently  turned  to  the 
left  eastward,  and  kept  along  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  road  for  six  leases  to  Huy  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  that  I  ever  travelled. 
That  from  Longtown  to  Langholme  is  not  more 
so ;  that  from  Ambleside  to  Keswick  scarcely, 

[        118        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

if  at  all.  It  is  foolish  to  compare  things  so 
different,  and  yet  the  folly  is  so  natural  that  I 
am  as  prone  to  it  as  if  I  did  not  know  it  to 
be  foolish.  The  Meuse  in  its  ordinary  width 
seems  something  wider  than  the  Thames  at 
Richmond ;  but  it  varies  more  both  in  breadth 
and  depth.  At  Namur  we  saw  a  horse  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  towing  a  vessel  against  the 
stream;  and  the  barge  which  plies  with  pas- 
sengers from  that  city  to  Liege  is  in  like  manner 
drawn  in  the  water  where  the  course  of  the 
road  or  of  the  stream  does  not  allow  the  animal 
to  perform  his  work  on  dry  ground.  A  second 
beast  was  on  board  to  relieve  its  comrade,  for  it 
is  severe  work;  and  we  were  told  that  the 
animals  thus  employed  were  soon  worn  out.  It 
is  difficult  work  also  for  the  rider,  for  the  bed 
of  the  river  is  full  of  holes ;  and  therefore  great 
skill  and  great  experience  are  necessary  for  the 
dangerous  task  of  driving.  This  is  the  reason 
why  only  one  horse  is  used  even  in  drawing 
against  the  stream ;  tho'  four  are  allowed  to 
the  Trekschuits  on  the  Flemish  canals.  It  may 
be  hoped  for  mercy's  sake  that  steamboats  will 
soon  be  introduced  here. 

[       119       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

The  road  lies  along  the  right  bank,  under 
rocks  which  from  the  number  of  kilns  I  sup- 
pose to  be  limestone.  The  villages  are  very 
numerous,  and  mostly  very  beautiful.  The 
crags  are  sufficiently  high  for  a  painter,  and 
more  varied  in  their  forms  than  any  which  I  can 
remember  to  have  seen  elsewhere.  In  some 
places  they  jutted  out  like  buttresses  ;  in  others 
rose  like  spires  and  pinnacles  and  the  chimneys 
of  ruined  buildings.  They  were  most  richly 
adorned  with  brushwood  and  with  a  small- 
leaved  ivy,  and  with  another  creeper  which,  I 
believe,  is  the  nightshade.  The  views  of  Namur 
were  strikingly  picturesque,  and  they  varied 
every  minute  till  we  lost  sight  of  it.  Perhaps 
the  finest  is  between  two  and  three  miles  off, 
where  the  city  appears  behind  a  bend  of  the 
Meuse,  and  that  fine  river  forms  the  foregrouujl. 
Some  houses  were  pointed  out  to  us  on  the  left 
bank  which  were  partly  excavated  in  the  rock  ; 
one  remarkable  one  with  hanging  gardens, 
where  there  was  an  archway  under  one  of  the 
terraces  leading  into  the  excavations,  and  in 
that  archway  a  cascade. 

Many  Prussian  troops  passed  us.    The  coach- 

[        120        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


man  seldom  failed  to  say  "  more  thieves  "  when 

he  saw  them  coming.     The  Gendarmes  are  not 

in  better  repute.  "  Honest  as  a  Gendarme ""  is  the 

worst  that  can  be  said  of  a  man.     The  Prussian 

waggons  usually  carried  a  spare  wheel  in  case  of 

accidents.      They  embargo   the   carts   of    the 

country  without  ceremony    and  without  com- 
pensation. 

We  halted  at  Andenne,  a  place  once  famous 
for  its   convent  of  female  Canons— the    most 
aristocratic  establishment  of  its  kind.      It  was 
near  a  fabric  of  coarse  porcelain  that  the  horses 
baited,  and  we  drank  the  only  bottle  of  wine 
which  the  house   could  supply,  wishing  there 
had  been    more,  for  it  was  good.      We   had 
brought  fruit  with  us,  and  devoured  bread  and 
butter  and  the  excellent  Limburg  cheese,  here 
called  Herve,  which  has  the  richness  of  Stilton 
with  the  flavour  of  Gruyere.     They  brought  us 
Gruyere  also,  which  we  have  seen  everywhere, 
and  which  I    conclude  is  made  everywhere,  as 
being  the  most  approved  kind.     Many  people 
were  employed  in  making  fireballs ;  they  trod 
the  mixture,  and  the  balls  were  drying  by  the 
roadside. 

[        121        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

We  were  now  entering  upon  a  land  of  vine- 
yards. The  approach  to  Huy  is  uncommonly 
striking — a  handsome  and  very  large  old  church 
on  the  right  bank,  with  hanging  gardens  near 
it,  and  a  high  hill  impending  above ;  a  bridge 
of  several  arches  over  the  Meuse,  and  on  the 
other  side  gardens  and  old  brick  buildings, 
apparently  convents,  coming  so  close  to  the 
water  as  to  produce  somewhat  of  the  effect  of 
Hindoo  scenery,  such  as  it  appears  in  prints. 
Having  seemed  quaii;ei*s  in  the  best  auherge  the 
place  afforded,  we  crost  the  bridge,  and  en- 
deavoured to  reach  the  river  side,  above  the 
town,  that  we  might  get  a  good  view  of  the 
bridge  and  the  church.  But  we  found  ourselves 
in  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  lanes  between  high 
walls,  and  among  buildings  in  various  stages  of 
decay  and  ruin,  the  work  of  the  revolution. 
Huy  itself  is  full  of  manufacturers,  but  this 
suburb,  which  had  been  the  residence  of  the 
Religioners  and  the  wealthy,  is  now  a  complete 
Necropolis — a  place  of  desolation — a  deserted 
city.  I  never  saw  anything  like  it — anything 
that  impressed  me  so  mournfully — the  desola- 
lation    being  recent   enough   to  produce    this 

[        122        ] 


J    ll 


^ 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


effect.  In  one  church,  which  seemed  to  be 
entirely  forsaken,  were  many  old  monuments 
built  into  the  outer  wall,  with  rude  bas-reliefs, 
and  inscriptions  mostly  of  the  16th  century. 

Mr.  Vardon  and  Edith  having  advanced  a 
little  before  us,  looked  into  the  courtyard  of  a 
large  building,  which  proved  to  be  inhabited, 
and  they  were  met  by  two  gentlemen.  Mr.  V. 
asked  if  it  were  a  public  building,  and  was 
answered  by  one  of  them  with  some  hauteur 
that  it  was  his  house.  Mr.  V.  then  begged  his 
pardon,  and  apologised  for  having  trespassed, 
saying  he  was  a  stranger.  The  gentleman  upon 
this  demanded  in  the  same  offended  manner  if 
they  were  Germans  ?  Being  told  that  we  were 
English,  his  tone  immediately  changed,  and  he 
invited  us  in.  By  this  time  we  were  come  up. 
The  person  with  whom  we  thus  had  fallen  in 
was  a  man  rather  above  the  middle  stature, 
thin,  pale,  and  with  a  melancholy  countenance ; 
grey  eyes  with  a  slight  cast,  which  was  not  per- 
ceptible at  first  sight,  and  a  few  marks  of  the 
small  pox.  His  age  was  45,  and  his  name,  as 
written  by  himself  in  my  journal  in  a  remark- 
ably strong,  legible  hand,  F.  J.  Onwerx.     He  is 

[       123       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


a  native  of  Liege.  He  introduced  us  into  a 
room  furnished  with  good  French  prints,  and 
with  some  French  books  lying  about  it.  In  an 
instant  he  uncorked  two  bottles  of  white  wine, 
which  he  called  Comet,  of  the  vintage  of  1811, 
upon  which  the  Comet  was  supposed  to  have 
produced  a  beneficial  effect.  We  assured  him 
that  tho'  it  was  five  o'clock  we  had  not 
dined,  and  that  dinner  was  then  preparing  for 
us  at  the  inn  ;  but  excuses  were  of  no  avail :  a 
brimming  glass  for  each  was  poured  out  and 
drank;  it  was  scarcely  swallowed  before  the 
bumpers  were  replenished  and  pressed  upon  us, 
as  if  this  form  of  hospitality  were  necessary 
towards  persons  of  our  country ;  we  could  not 
refuse  without  the  probability  of  appearing  dis- 
courteous, and  thus  Ladies  and  all  were  obliged 
to  drink  a  second  and  a  third  bumper,  emptying 
both  bottles. 

M.  Onwerx  then  led  us  into  his  garden,  a 
beautiful  spot  extending  to  the  river,  where  the 
bank  was  walled.  There  was  a  frankness  and  a 
decided  manly  manner  about  him  which  were 
very  interesting.  He  told  us  that  he  had  been 
a  widower  fifteen  years,  and  that  there  was  no 

[        124        ] 


. 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


happiness  in  this  world  for  him.     Having  been 
bom  and  bred  in  a  Catholic  country,  the  disgust 
with  which  that  system  of  villainous  and  impu- 
dent imposture  filled  him  has  fatally  made  him 
regard  everything  beyond  this  world  as  doubt- 
ful.    He  spoke  with  bitter  severity  of  the  Prus- 
sians, and  said  they  were  worse  than  the  French : 
he   had  offered  money   to  be   exempted   from 
having  soldiers  quartered  upon  him ;  they  had 
taken  it,  and  quartered  men  upon  him  neverthe- 
less.    And  those  men   had  plundered  without 
mercy  or  shame,  even  to  drawing   out  screws 
from  the  floor.     He  execrated  Buonaparte,  who 
had  been  there,  in  this  house,  and  had  treated 
him  with  insolence,  but  he  added,  "  I  am  not  a 
man  to  crouch  before  him,  and  I  answered  him 
manfully."     This  his  companion,  who    was    a 
much  older  man,  told  us  also,  and  said  that 
Buonaparte   altered  his  manner  when  he  dis- 
covered the  character  of  the  person  with  whom 
he  was  speaking.     He  complained  of  the  manner 
in  which  his  country  had  been  treated ;  they  had 
been  a  free  and  an  independent  and  a  happy 
people,  he  said,  and  they  were  transferred  now 
to  a  foreigner  like  so  many  cattle.     The  policy 

[        125        ] 


1 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

of  England,  he  said,  waus  horrible  :  not  because 
it  had  made  these  countries  a  province  of  Eng- 
land, but  because  we  had  let  Buonaparlte  loose 
from  Elba.  We  perceived  that  the  ti-eaty  of 
Paris  was  too  advantageous  for  France  ;  that  in 
a  few  years  she  would  rival  our  manufactures, 
or  exceed  them,  and  become  dangerous,  if  not 
too  powerful  for  us,  and  therefore  we  had  let  this 
ferocious  beast  loose.  Miserably  as  I  express 
myself  in  French,  I  endeavoured  to  show  him 
how  impossible  this  was,  but  the  most  solemn 
asservation  could  make  no  impression  upon  him, 
so  thoroughly  was  he  persuaded  of  the  absurd 
notion  ;  and  I  was  really  sorry  for  this,  finding 
him  a  man  of  strong  feeling  and  strong  sense. 

M.  Onwerx  has  two  daughters,  whom  we  did 
not  see.  The  firing  at  Waterloo,  he  told  us, 
was  heard  distinctly  here,  and  made  the  house 
shake.  This  might  easily  be  ;  but  he  added 
what  is  very  remarkable,  that  a  friend  whose 
veracity  he  could  not  doubt  assured  him  it  had 
in  like  manner  been  perceived  at  Amiens,  43 
leagues  from  the  field. 

He  promised  to  call  on  us  tomorrow  after 
breakfast,  and  walk  with  us  to  a  beautiful  place 

[        126       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


up  the  little  river  Hoyoux,  where  his  father-in- 
law,  M.  Delloye,  had  a  manufactory  oifer-hlanc, 
which  I  suppose  is  tin.  He  himself  manu- 
factures soap  and,  I  believe,  paper. 

Our  inn  is  curiously  situated,  being  literally 
upon  the  Hoyoux,  which  runs  under  the  court- 
yard, and  presently  passes  under  an  odd  bridge 
of  one  arch ;  the  arch  of  course  is  true,  but  the 
ascent  is  so  steep,  continuing  up  to  the  bridge, 
that  for  more  than  half  the  way  it  is  by  a  flight 
of  steps.     A  few  yards  only  beyond,  this  little 
river  falls  into  the  Meuse  close  by  the  bridge. 
The  fireplace   in  our  apartment  is  a  singular 
one;  a  perpendicular  grate,  with  flues  to  the 
right  and  left,  a  broad  marble  slab  over  it,  and 
over  this  an  oval  window  looking  to  the  bridge, 
the  flues  passing  on  both  sides  of  the  window. 
This  was  more  beautiful  than  convenient,  for 
the  chimney  smoked.     The  frame  of  the  fire- 
place is  brass,  above  it  a  line  of  tiles,  and  then 
the  broad  marble  chimney-piece. 

The  women  here  carry  a  basket  with  a  back 
like  that  of  a  chair,  but  made  of  close  wicker 
work.  The  back  rises  above  the  bearer's  head, 
who  carries   it  back   to  back.     The  basket  is 

[        127       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

something  in  this  shape  ^,  so  that  when  the 
lower  p€irt  is  full,  vegetables  or  whatever  else  it 
contains  may  be  piled  up  to  a  great  height,  the 
bearer  naturally  stooping  in  proportion  to  the 
weight  of  the  load.  It  is  supported  by  a  strap 
across  the  shoulders.  This  basket  is  so  con- 
venient for  those  who,  like  Issachar,  bow  their 
shouldei-s  to  bear,  that  it  is  used  far  and  wide 
over  the  continent. 

We  are  at  the  best  of  two  Inns,  the  sign  of 
the  Helmet,  but  Huy  is  a  place  at  which  few 
travellers  stop,  the  distance  between  Namur 
and  Liege  being  but  a  short  journey.  We 
found  however  good  fare,  good  wine,  and  very 
civil  treatment. 

Friday^  Oct.  6. 

Our  rest  was  disturbed  by  various  noises.  A 
horseman  stopt  at  the  door  after  midnight, 
and  he  and  his  horse,  the  one  calling  and  the 
other  stamping,  as  if  the  horse  understood  and 
seconded  the  impatience  of  the  rider,  reminded 
me  of  the  Ghost  on  horseback  in  the  ballad  of 
Lenora.  Prussian  troops  also  were  marching 
thro"* ;    among    them    I    saw    some    lancers  in 

[        128        ] 


the  morning,  with  little  red  flags  near  the  lance 
point.  The  church  bells  were  very  loud,  frequent 
and  troublesome— this  annoyance  alone  would 
have  told  us  that  we  were  in  a  Catholic  country. 
Pewter  is  in  use  here  for  the  wa^h-cuin-salhd 
bosom,  and  for  certain  other  utensils.  I  slept 
under  a  patch-work  quilt;— this  sort  of  in- 
dustrious economy  is  probably  found  wherever 
printed  calicos  are  worn. 

They  brought  us  gi-apes  and  Gruyere  cheese 
at  breakfast.     The  butter  was  marked  with  the 
I.  H.  S.— a  mark  of  devotion  I  believe— not  the 
initials  of  the  vendor.     M.  Onwerx  called  at  the 
time  appointed,  and  took  us  first  to  the  Church, 
under  an   arch   which   has   some   curious    old 
sculptm-e  representing  the  nativity.     The  great 
tower  having  been   much  injured  toward  the 
bottom   by   lightning  a   few    years    ago,   was 
propt  while  the  lower  part  was  repaired  and 
in  fact  rebuilt,  a  work  of  extraordinary  skill, 
lliis  induced  me  to  tell  him  of  Mr.  Edgeworth's 
exploit,  who  built  a  cast-iron  steeple  on  the 
ground  and  raised  it  in  one  piece.     I  found  the 
names   of    Edgeworth   and  his   daughter   well 
known,  and  their  connection  with  Switzeriand. 

[        129        ]  I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


The  part  of  the  town  thro'  which  we  past 
is  very  picturesque  from  the  number  of  bridges 
and  ruins;  the   latter   are  more  probably  the 
work  of  revolution  than  of  war,  tho'  of  war 
Huy  in  former  times  has  had   its  full  share. 
M.  Delloye's  house  is  about  three  miles  distant, 
up  the  valley,  and  a  more  truly  delicious  valley 
(could  all  vestiges  of  manufactures  be  removed) 
I  have  seldom  seen.     Beautiful  it  must  indeed 
be  to  obtain  this  praise  from  one  who  resides  at 
Keswick  and  has  past  a  summer  at  Cintra.    The 
hills  on  either  side  I  guess  to  be  about  as  high 
as  the  Hatteril  Hills  (or  Black  Mountain)  at 
Lautony.     A  few  years  ago  they  were  clothed 
with  wood,  but    the  forges  have  stript  them. 
However,  the  underwood  is  springing  up,  and 
the  valley  is  so  rich  that  we  scarcely  felt  the 
devastation  of  the  hills  as  an  injury.     There 
are  many  comfoi-table  cottages,  which  M.  Onwerx 
with  evident  pleasure  told  us  belonged  to  little 
landholdei-s.     The  vale  is  beautifully  green  ;  it 
abounds  with  orchards,  large  walnut  and  horse- 
chestnut  trees  are  growing  in   the  fields ;  and 
the  little   river,  before    it   reaches   the   works 
i^hich  block  and  defile  the  latter  part  of  its 

[        130        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


channel,  reminded  me  of  our  Cumberland  streams 
in  the  quiet  part  of  their  course,  where  they 
flow  along  level  ground.  The  vale,  he  said,  con- 
tinued thus  beautiful  for  some  twelve  miles  to 
its  head.  The  waiter  at  the  inn  had  told  us 
that  the  sources  of  the  river  at  that  distance 
were  well  worth  visiting. 

The  mother-in-law  of  M.  Onwerx  had  been 
educated  in  an  English  Nunnery  at  Liege,  but 
long  disuse  had  made  her  unwilling  or  unable 
to    speak  English,    tho'   she    still    understood 
it.     They  gave  us  cakes  and  Muscat  wine.    The 
house  had  all  marks  of  comfort  and  elegance 
and  opulence  about   it;    none  of  ostentation. 
The  garden  was  well  laid  out ;  that  is,  nothing 
had  been  done  there  to  injure  nature.    A  round 
basin  of  water,  with  a  spouting  fountain  in  the 
middle,  is  not  to  be  complained  of.     They  who 
object  to  the  sight  of  art  thus  poorly  and  feebly 
employed  may  look  another  way  and  be  pleased 
with  the  sound. 

M.  Delloye's  works  are  upon  a  great  scale.  I 
was  asked  if  we  had  any  wheels  so  large  in 
England;  and  these  were  large  enough  to 
justify  the  question  from  one  who  had  never 

[        131        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


been  there.  This  is  the  first  manufactory  of 
tin  which  was  established  in  these  parts,  and 
Buonaparte  had  given  money  towards  setting 
it  up.  The  rest  of  the  family,  I  found, 
had  none  of  that  just  and  well-founded 
detestation  of  this  tyrant  which  M.  Onwerx 
exprest.  One  of  the  Ladies  was  silent  when 
I  said  that  he  ought  to  have  been  put 
to  death;  another  observed  to  Mrs.  Vardon 
that  he  had  done  much  good  as  well  as  much 
evil. 

The  conversation  which  I  had  with  M.  Onwerx 
upon  this  walk  was  very  interesting.  Liege,  he 
said,  had  been  a  free  country.  The  Prince 
Bishop  was  elective  ;  it  was  a  dignity  to  which 
any  man  might  aspire.  There  were  two  and 
twenty  towns  in  the  Bishoprick,  each  sending  its 
deputy  to  preserve  the  charter  of  their  freedom, 
for  such  a  charter  they  had,  like  our  Magna 
Charta,  many  centuries  old.  He  himself,  if 
he  had  been  aggrieved  by  the  Prince  Bishop, 
might  have  brought  an  action  against  him  and 
obtained  redress.  There  were  no  delays  of  jus- 
tice ;  a  cause  was  decided  in  24  hours,  or  in 
36  at  the  farthest.      Now,  there  was  no  such 

[        132        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


thing  as  justice.     Before  the  Revolution  they 
had   only   been   too  happy.      He  was   a   man 
who  had  entered  into  the  first  feelings  of  the 
Revolution  with  all  the  ardour  of  youth,  and 
bitterly  lamented  its   excesses  and   its   conse- 
quences.     What    he     now    desired     was    the 
restoration   of  the  old   system;   that  is,  that 
Liege  should  again  be   free   and   independent 
under    its    old   institutions;    for   it   was    his 
opinion  that  small  states  were  those  in  which 
the   people   had    been   happiest,   and   wherein 
there  was  most  encouragement  for   literature 
and  the  arts.     He  admired  the  English,   but 
adhered  to  his  persuasion  that  they  had  pur- 
posely let  Buonaparte  loose ;  else,  he  said,  why 
had  not  the  man  been  punished  who  suffered 
him   to   escape?      A    dreadful   vengeance,   he 
thought,  would  overtake  the  Prussians.     They 
were  retaliating  what  they  had  suffered,  and 
this  would  draw  on  more  retaliation,  evil  pro- 
ducing evil.     But  he  did  not  disguise  his  hope 
that    they   might    be   driven   out   of    France 
They  had  behaved  with  excessive  insolence  at 
M.  Delloye's.    The  best  things  which  the  house 
afforded  had  been  set  before  them,  and  they 

[        133        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

said  the  wine  might  be  good  enough  to  wash 
their  feet  in,  but  not  to  drink. 

We  parted  with  much  good  will  toward  each 
other,  and  having  a  copy  of  Roderick,  which 
I  meant  to  have  carried  to  Manheini  for  my 
Uncle's  friend,  M.  Osserwald,  if  we  had  pro- 
ceeded so  far,  I  left  it  with  him. 

We  set  off  from  Huy  at  noon,  well  pleased 
with  our  adventures  there,  crost  the  bridge 
and  proceeded  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river. 
More  beautiful  scenes  than  those  of  yesterday 
had  been  promised  us ;  they  were  less  so,  but 
still  it  is  a  fine  and  interesting  country.  The 
views  of  Huy  are  very  striking,  tho'  inferior 
to  those  on  the  other  approach.  Red  cliffs — the 
reddest  I  ever  saw  ;  broken  rocks  with  creepers 
in  great  luxuriance ;  and  many  picturesque 
buildings.  The  river  frequently  forms  islands 
in  its  course.  The  vale  widened  as  we  advanced, 
losing  thereby  in  beauty.  We  past  almost 
under  a  very  remarkable  Chateau^  a  large  square 
building  upon  the  brow  of  a  rock  which  is 
precipitous  on  three  sides,  and  the  garden  wall 
appeared  as  if  it  were  on  the  very  brink  of  the 
precipice.     At  a  village  near  we   halted,  and 

[        134        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


had  good  bread,  cheese,  butter  and  wine,  all 
good  things,  and  which  seem  in  these  countries 
everywhere  to  be  good  in  their  kind.  Here  and 
everywhere  we  heard  the  same  complaint  of  the 
Prussians.  Indeed,  we  saw  something  of  their 
insolence  upon  this  stage ;  for  we  met  a  party 
of  their  soldiers.  A  carriage,  with  two  gentle- 
men and  ladies  of  the  country,  had  come  up 
with  them,  and  these  Prussians  would  not  allow 
them  to  drive  by,  but  insisted  upon  their 
following  patiently  and  waiting  upon  their 
foot  pace. 

As  we  approached  Liege  we  saw  nothing  but 
filth  and  poverty,  and  the  City  itself  presented 
nothing  inviting  in  its  appearance.  The 
Cathedral  was  destroyed  by  the  Revolutionists 
in  their  brutal  love  of  destruction.  We  had 
been  recommended  from  Namur  to  the  Aigle 
Noir^  an  Inn  not  in  a  good  situation,  and  suffi- 
ciently uninviting  in  its  external.  Some  dis- 
comfort was  apprehended  and  some  discontent 
exprest  when  we  were  shown  into  the  public 
room,  where  there  was  one  man  at  dinner  and 
a  strong  odour  of  tobacco.  They  told  us  we 
should  soon  have  the  room  to  ourselves,  and 

[        135        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


that  the  folding  doors  between  it  and  the  bar 
should  be  shut  to  secuie  our  privacy.  Pre- 
sently, however,  another  person  came  in  to 
dinner.  I  saw  now  that  the  bar-part  of  the 
room  would  fall  to  our  lot,  and  calling  there 
for  pen,  ink  and  paper,  sate  down  and  wrote  to 
John  May,  while  a  woman  sei-vant  washed  the 
hearth  and  made  a  fire  for  us.  The  chimney 
piece  was  tiled;  the  hearth  tessellated  with 
little  bricks  about  two  inches  long  and  half  an 
inch  wide ;  a  brazen  plate,  like  a  waiter,  on  an 
iron  stem,  was  the  screen.  By  the  time  I  had 
finished  my  letter  the  table  was  spread,  and  we 
had  an  excellent  dinner  with  good  wine. 


Saturday^  Oct,  7. 

In  all  the  inns  we  have  found  a  want  of 
cleanliness  in  the  bedroom  floors  and  a  want  of 
bedside  carpets.  Here  we  had  cigarrs  laid  upon 
the  bedroom  table — being,  I  suppose,  as  neces- 
sary for  a  German  as  his  night  cap. 

The  windows  in  Liege  and  its  vicinity  are 
mostly  square  and  small.     .The  city    displays 

[        136        ] 


I  N 


THE    NETHERLANDS 


an  appearance  of  activity  and  trade,  tho'  its 
population  has  been  diminished  by  the  loss  of 
15,000   inhabitants   since  the   revolution.      It 
still    contains  50,000.      In  passing   thro^   the 
suburbs  yesterday  we  observed  that  a  very  great 
number  of  the  houses  were  to  be  let.    The  Com- 
missionaire who  guided  me  when  I  went  to  put 
my  letter  in  the  Post-Ofiice  said  that  Buonaparte 
has  many  partizans  here.      The  Post-Office  is 
inconveniently  situated  at  one  end  of  the  city 
instead  of  in  the  middle ;  to  avoid  a  long  cir- 
cuit in  getting  there  we  crost  the  nearly  dry 
channel  of  one  of  the  many  branches  with  which 
the  place  is  intersected  by  the  Meuse,  a  boat 
being   laid   across   the   channel,   and   reaching 
from  one  bank  to  the  other,  and  for  the  use  of 
this  sort  of  bridge  a  small  copper  coin  was  paid. 
Among  the  signs  I  noticed  that  of  the  S.  Esprit 
at  a  cabaret ;  the  Catholicks  appear  not  to  be 
sensible  of  any  irreverence  in   the  use  of  such 
names  and  symbols.     Except  at  Bristol  fair,  I 
never  saw  so  much  gingerbread  in  any  one  day 
as   in  going  thro'  this  city ;    it   must    surely 
be  commonly  in  use  as  food,  not  merely  as  a 
luxury  for  children.     The  wetness  of  the  morn- 

[        137       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

ing  preventing  our  party  from  going  over  this 
dirty  city ;  but  we  had  driven  thro'  great  part 
of  it  the  preceding  evening,  and  my  walk  to 
the  Post-Office  showed  me  more.  Beggars  have 
become  more  numerous  since  we  entered  the 
Pais  de  Liege.  There  is  neither  Flemish  comfort 
here  nor  Flemish  cleanliness  ;  both  have  been 
lessening  all  the  way  from  Bruges,  and  both 
have  now  disappeared.  A  few  old  and  poor 
persons  wear  very  broad  bever  hats — the  last 
remains  of  old  costume.  The  houses  about  the 
place  are  generally  of  a  deep  red  colour. 

One  roguery  I  must  notice,  not  as  peculiar  to 
Liege,  for  we  have  obsei'\'ed  it  everywhere.  The 
bottles  are  manufactured  in  so  rascally  a  shape 
that  the  bulging  bottom  defrauds  you  nearly  of 
one-third  of  what  the  bottle  appears  to  hold. 

As  we  looked  back  upon  Liege,  the  hop-poles, 
which  were  very  numerous  in  the  adjoining 
country,  and  were  now  pitched  together  as 
thickly  as  the  tents  of  an  army,  combined  in  a 
most  singular  manner  with  the  steeples.  A 
mile  or  two  off  we  crost  the  narrowest  bridge 
which  I  ever  saw  for  carriage,  over  a  stream 
which,  coming  from  an  opposite  direction  to  the 

[        138        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Meuse,  falls  into  it  close  by  this  bridge.     From 
thence  we  ascended  a  very  long  straight  paved 
road,  which   was   a   tremendous   pull   for    the 
horses.     The  country  here  is  beautiful,  remind- 
ing  me    of   the  Monmouthshire   scenery,    not 
in  the  mountainous    but    hilly   parts  of   that 
fine  county;    and   the   weather,   tho'  the  rain 
sometimes  melted  into  mist  and  the  mist  some- 
times  dissolved   in    rain,   did    not    materially 
obscure  the  prospect  at  any  time.     Near  the 
city  the  roadside  beggars  were  very  numerous ; 
one  man  who  was  placed  in  a  chair  beside  the 
way  to  excite  charity  gave  me  a  painful  idea 
of  the  demoniacks  in  scripture.     Women  were 
threshing  in  the  barns ;  they  use  a  flail  shorter 
than  the  English  one,  especially  in  the  striking 
part.     A  man  was  picking  up  manure  from  the 
road  in  a  basket — a  proof  at  least  that  nothing 
is  allowed  to  be  lost  here.     The  road  is  for  the 
most  part  hilly,  and  sometimes  it  passes  over 
the  first  wastes  or  commons  that  we  have  seen. 

We  halted  at  Theux,  at  a  wretched  house, 
where  the  only  room  in  which  we  could  be 
received  was  wet.  llie  floor  was  composed  of 
bricks   laid   in  large  square  pannels  within  a 

[        139        ] 


i  i 

if      I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

black  framing — no  doubt  of  that  black  marble 
for  which  this  place  is  celebrated ;  it  is  said  to 
be  the  finest  in  Europe,  and  to  take  a  polish  as 
fine  as  glass.  There  were  marks  of  antiquity 
about  the  house,  some  fragments  which  had 
been  built  upon  on  the  chinmey  bore  the  date  of 
1592,  and  a  fragment  in  the  yard  that  of  1565. 
We  had  excellent  bread  and  butter  here,  and 
the  fine  Herve  cheese — upon  which  we  dined 
heartily  and  hungi'ily,  not  knowing  that  we 
were  scarcely  six  miles  from  Spa.  Going  out  of 
the  town  you  come  to  a  building  with  this  in- 
scription :  Wauxhallchampetre.  About  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  off  is  a  castle  on  the  left,  appearing 
like  a  square  of  brickwork  without  any  loop- 
holes. It  shows  well,  with  a  brook  and  bridge 
and  village  in  the  foreground,  and  we  had  seen 
it  at  a  considerable  distance.  The  country  all 
the  way  to  Spa  is  very  pleasing,  still  of  the  tamer 
Monmouthshire  character — heights  covered  with 
brushwood,  and  streams  of  clear  water — much 
that  is  soothing  and  picturesque,  nothing  that 
approaches  to  sublimity. 

We  found  at  the  Hotel  de  Prince  d'Orange 
all  the  accommodation  to  be  expected  at  a  place 

[        HO        ] 


il 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


of  fashionable  resort— a  fine  spacious  apartment, 
a  chandelier  in  the  middle,  a  noble  wood  fire, 
tables  with  marble  slabs  and  old  screens  of  the 
oldest  fashion,  large  and  inconvenient;  the 
hearth  tessellated  as  at  Liege.  Good  beds,  but 
here  and  everywhere  else  they  seem  intended 
only  for  single  persons,  as  if  married  ones  nevei- 
slept  together. 

Sunday^  Oct,  8. 

This  is  a  little  quiet  place,  in  that  respect 
resembling  Tunbridge  Wells.  One  of  the 
springs  is  in  the  town,  and  these  verses  have 
been  inscribed  over  it  since  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  who  is  here  at  present,  arrived : 

L  ouvre  men  sein  salubre  au  fils  de  la  patrie 
Et  desire  arderament  de  prolonger  sa  vie. 

There  are  three  other  springs.  Two  are  at  the 
same  place  about  a  mile  and  half  from  the 
town;  both  are  strong  chalybeaters,  tho'  one 
is  stronger  than  the  other,  and  in  the  strongest 
you  see  bubbles  rise.  Close  by  the  other  is  a 
footstep  cut  in  stone  some  four  or  five  inches 
deep,  with  these  words  beside  it :  Le  Pied  de 

[        141        ] 


1 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


St.  R.  Not  knowing  who  the  Saint  might  be, 
but  not  doubting  that  his  footstep  had  been 
imprinted  there  for  some  good  purpose,  I  en- 
quired the  meaning,  and  w£is  informed  that 
Ladies  who  desired  to  become  fruitful  were  to 
set  a  foot  in  it  and  obtain  their  wish  thro'' 
the  merits  of  St.  Remacle.  Mrs.  Vardon  had 
already  been  trying  whether  the  footstep  fitted 
her.  Away  I  went  to  Edith,  led  her  there  and 
begged  her  to  set  her  foot  in  the  impression, 
which  my  Governess  did,  and  when  we  told  her 
the  legend  she  declared  that  she  never  again 
would  do  anything  I  desired.  Koster  also 
before  he  heard  of  the  spell  tried  his  foot,  and 
we  had  much  laughing  about  the  consequences. 
He  had  stood  in  the  Saint's  shoes,  we  said,  but 
it  might  not  be  so  pleasant  some  time  hence  to 
stand  in  his;  and  we  wished  him  well  thro** 
it.  The  third  spring,  which  contains  some 
sulphur,  is  a  mile  and  half  from  these  and  at 
the  same  distance  from  the  town ;  the  woods 
about  this  have  not  been  cut  down,  and  the 
place  is  sequestered  and  beautiful.  A  poor 
woman  here  presented  a  petition  to  us  with  a 
mournful  story,  which  the  people  of  the  well 

'      [        142        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


assured  us  was  true.  She  had  offered  it  to  the 
Prince's  attendants  (for  he  comes  every  day  to 
drink  this  water),  and  they  told  her  he  had  no 
money  and  could  give  to  no  one.  Mrs.  Vardon 
explained  to  her  that  this  was  the  answer  of  the 
attendants,  not  of  the  Prince  himself.  It  is 
indeed  his  obvious  policy  to  acquire  all  the 
popularity  he  can,  and  popularity  is  always  to 
be  cheaply  bought  by  Princes  ;  a  little  money 
goes  a  great  way  in  purchasing  it.  If  he  does 
not  make  hay  while  the  sun  shines  he  will 
never  get  in  his  harvest. 

Spa  has  suffered  much  since  the  days  before 
the  Revolution,  when  it  was,  perhaps,  the 
most  fashionable  place  of  resort  in  Europe. 
The  woods  all  around  it  are  gone,  except  the 
small  part  by  the  sulphur  spring.  Eight  years 
ago  180  houses  were  destroyed  by  an  accidental 
fire;  an  inundation  did  further  mischief,  and 
last  year  the  Prussians  bivouacqued  here.  The 
Master  of  our  hotel  speaks  English.  His  wife, 
who  had  borne  up  against  repeated  calamities, 
died  about  six  weeks  ago  broken-hearted  by  mis- 
fortunes. Their  whole  hopes  had  been  upon  this 
season;  the  return  of  Buonaparte  from  Elba 

[        143        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


made  her  believe  there  would  be  no  end  to  their 
troubles,  and  she  sunk  under  them.  The  poor 
man  is  in  the  deepest  dejection,  and  speaks  of 
his  children,  especially  of  a  babe  who  is  only  a 
few  months  old,  with  great  feeling. 

One  of  the  Vauxhalls  here  has  the  whole  of 
the  upper  part  cased  in  wood  to  preserve  it  from 
the  weather — a  very  large  house  in  a  packing 
case.  The  great  ambition  of  the  boys  seems  to 
be  to  crack  the  whip,  like  the  postillions ;  they 
were  emulously  practising  it,  one  fellow  with  so 
nmch  exertion  that  he  threw  himself  down  with 
the  effort.  We  were  serenaded  here  as  Brussels, 
and  with  good  music  and  singing.  A  blind 
woman  came  begging  into  our  room,  and  told 
us  she  was  the  person  who  had  given  occasion  to 
Madame  Genlis"*  story — a  story  which  we  were 
supposed  to  know.  She  had  been  in  England, 
she  said,  where  the  Duchess  of  Devonshire  intro- 
duced her  to  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  he  gave 
her  two  guineas.  She  now  subsisted  upon  the 
bounty  of  the  English,  and  kept  a  little  oi-phan 
girl  to  guide  her  about.  Crayfish  are  very 
abundant  here — a  provoking  sort  of  food,  which 
promises  so  much  more  than  it  affords. 

[         144        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Monday^  Oct.  9. 
To-day  there  was  a  horse  race  patronised  by 
the  Prmce.     It  was  on  the  heights  about  a  mile 
and   half  from  the    town,  and  certainly  there 
never  was   worse  racing ;    but   the  scene   was 
chearful,  and  the  people  seemed  very  happy  and 
thoroughly  delighted,   in   spite   of  a  piercing 
north-ea.t  wind.      Blue  was  the  predominant 
colour,  the  greater  part  of  the  spectators  being 
in  their  frocks.     Next  door  to  our  hotel  is  a 
large  house,  built  for  a  gambling  house  and  for 
dancing.     We  were  invited  to  a  baJl  there,  but 
did  not  go.     A  woman  called  for  our  names, 
which  we  afterwards  found  were  to  be  printed  in 
the  hst  of  visitors  to  Spa.     House  rent  is  cheap 
here,  a  good  one  only  from  200  to  300  francs 
per  annum. 

Here  I  bought  Rennefort's  Travels,  which 
under  the  absurd  title  of  «  Histoire  des  Indes 
Onentales  -  contains  a  great  deal  about  Mada- 
gascar, something  about  Brazil,  and  a  few 
curious  notes  concerning  England. 

The  fruit  and  the  wine  appeared  to  have  dis- 

[        145        ]  ^ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


agreed  with  me  here,  as  they  did  at  Brussels. 
The  effect  for  a  night  and  half  a  day  was  violent, 
and  I  think  the  Eau  de  Cologne,  which  I  took  by 
Mrs.  Vardon's  advice,  tended  to  stop  the  com- 
plaint. But  it  was  proper  to  abstain  from  any- 
thing that  might  renew  it ;  which,  as  my  incli- 
nation for  both  had  suffered  no  abatement,  made 
me  talk  of  describing  my  situation  at  the  dinner 
table  as  the  Temptation  of  St.  Robert. 


Tuesday,  Oct.  10. 

Our  coachmen  dissuaded  us  from  attempting 
to  reach  Aix  la  Chapelle  in  one  day ;  the  dis- 
tance, they  said,  was  ten  strong  leagues  and  the 
road  bad,  and  they  assured  us  that  there  was  a 
good  Inn  at  Verviers,  four  leagues  on  the  way. 

Owing  to  this  adnce,  and  to  some  mismanage- 
ment about  our  linen,  we  did  not  start  till 
noon.  We  soon  rolled  over  the  good  road  back 
as  far  as  Theux,  where,  being  told  that  we  had 
plenty  of  day  before  us,  we  went  up  to  examine 
Franchimont  Castle,  which  we  had  only  seen 
from  the  road.     The  place  is  often  mentioned 

[       146       ] 


IN 


THE    NETHERLANns 


'n  the  French  Memoirs,  and,  if  I  am  not  mis- 
taken, ,s  the  scene  of  an  adventure  with  robbers 
Z  ~  -hich  is  .said  to  have  happened  to 
Man^hal  W      It  was  ™ined  no  longer  ago 
than  the  Revolution,  when  a  passion  fordestrov- 
.ng  whatever  wa^  ancient  and  venemble  seems 
to  have    possessed  the  hearts    of   the  people. 
TTie  rums  are  extensive,   but  less  picturesque 
than  any  which  I  ever  .saw  before,  or  than  I 
should  have  thought  possible    for  so  large  a 
mass.      We  saw  some  snail  shells  here    of  a 
speces  lai-ger  than  any  in  England,  and  a  yellow 
flower,  w.th  which  none  of  us  were  acquainted,  we 
gathered  here  ;  it  was  very  pretty  and  sweet. 

From  hence  we  turned  aside  by  a  wretched 
road  to  Verviers,  up  a  long  and  most  wearying 
hill,  and  then  down  it  into  the  fertile  valley 
"herein  the  town  stands.     It  is  a  flourishing 
place  containing  10,000  inhabitants,  and   its 
manufactures  of  cloth  and  kersymere  have  the 
reputation  of  being  the  best  in  Europe.     Teazles 
gow  in  the  neighbourhood.     The  master  of  the 
Hotel  at  Spa  advised  us  to  drive  to  the  sign  of 
the  Emperor;  the  house  was  dirty,  the  mistress 
received  us  with  the  utmost  incivility,  and  the 

[        147        ] 


JOU  RN  AL    OF    A    TOUR 


beds  were  neither  enough  in  number,  nor  invit- 
ing in  appearance  if  they  had.     We  tried  our 
fortune  therefore  at  another  inn,  to  which  the 
Coachman  would  fain  have  taken  us  at  first,  but 
we  had  been  assured  that  it  was  only  part  of  a 
large  building,  the  other  part    of  which  was 
used  as  a  manufactory,  noisy  enough  to  keep  us 
awake  the  whole  night.     Upon  enquiring  here 
we  found  that  an  English  family  from  Spa  had 
arrived  before  us  and  engaged  all  the  beds  except 
two :  our  party  required  eight.     The  auhergiste 
was  exceedingly  civil,  and  recommended  us  to 
proceed  to  Batisse,  and  if,  as  she  thought  it 
would   prove,  we  could  not  be  lodged  at  the 
Post  House  there,  go  then  to  Herve,  which  was 
only  a  quarter  of  an  hour  out  of  our  way.     The 
grumpy  coachman  grumbled,  but  could  neither 
help  himself  nor   us.      Henri,   as   usual,  took 
things   contentedly ;    and  having   lost   half  an 
hour   in  these  fruitless   attempts   to   establish 
ourselves  for    the    night,    we    proceeded    two 
leagues  to  Batisse ;  the  trial  there  was  in  vain, 
and  we  turned  aside  to  Herve,  where  we  arrived 
about  six  o'clock,  dinnerless,  and  not  a  little 
apprehensive  as  to  obtaining  quarters  in  so  un- 

[        148        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


promising  a  little  town.  Room,  however,  was 
promised  with  some  makeshifts;  we  found  a 
very  civil  landlady,  and  sate  down  to  dinner  at 
seven.  But  we  had  left  French  cookery  behind 
us,  and  perceived  to  our  sorrow  that  we  were 
now  in  a  land  of  gi^ease. 

When  we  had  been  in  the  house  about  two 
horns  the  Prussian  commandant  of  the  town 
came  in,  and,  calling  for  the  Hostess,  asked  her 
if  she  had  forgotten  the  law  which  required  her 
always  without  delay  to  communicate  an  account 
of  all  strangers  who  aiTived  at  her  Inn  ?     "  For 
this  first  time,''  said  he,  "  I  remind  you  of  it. 
The  second  time  I  shall  reprimand.     The  third 
I  shall  punish."      He  then  turned  to  us  and 
demanded  our  passports.     To   us   he  deported 
himself  with   great    courtesy,  even    winningly 
so,  a  manner   which  was  at  once  conciliatinjr 
and  dignified,  being  aided  by  a  fine  countenance. 
But  he  came  in  followed  by  two  gens  d'armes, 
and  if  we  had  been  of  any  other  nation    our 
treatment  perhaps  might  not  have  been  so  satis- 
factory.    The  Hostess  said  it  was  the  first  time 
he  had  ever  entered  her  house;   in  the  hurry 
and,   perhaps,   the  pleasure    of  having    unex- 

[        149        ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


pectedly  so  large  a  party  to  provide  for,  she 
had  neglected  to  conform  to  a  precaution  which 
is  by  no  means  unnecessary  in  these  parts  at 
this  time.  The  poor  woman  was  very  attentive 
and  obliging,  desirous  of  accommodating  us  in 
the  best  manner  she  could.  She  spoke  with 
bitterness  of  the  French  tyranny  and  its  effects, 
but  observed  that  the  Prussian  frontiers  were 
too  near,  and  that  the  Rhine  would  be  the 
proper  boundai*y. 

The  public  room  in  the  uncivil  woman's  inn 
at  Verviers  was  heated  by  a  stove,  being  the  first 
which  we  had  seen  except  in  kitchens.  At  Herve 
we  found  the  same  symptom  of  our  approach  to 
Germany,  and  whatever  may  be  the  advantage 
of  thus  diffusing  the  heat  over  the  whole  room, 
we  all  disliked  the  oppressive  sensation  which  it 
produced.  To  say  nothing  of  the  life  and 
motion  and  beauty  of  an  English  fire,  there  is 
the  gi-eat  objection  to  the  stove  that  when  you 
enter  the  room,  and  require  to  be  warmed,  it 
heats  the  face  too  much  and  the  feet  too  little. 

An  insulated  spiral  staircase  of  dark  brown 
wood  fronted  us  as  we  entered  the  house,  having 
a  door  at  the  bottom  which  led  to  the  cellar. 

[        150       ] 


The  chairs  are  wooden  and  of  a  fashion  rather 
old  than  foreign,  but  the  round  knobs  on  the 
crossbars  below  are  polished  with  black-lead. 
The  beds  were  of  German  fashion,  having 
instead  of  blanket  or  counterpane  a  mattrass 
about  four  feet  square  for  a  covering.  The 
pannels  of  Mrs.  Vardon's  door  are  painted  with 
pictures  most  ludicrously  bad,  representing  an 
irresistible  gentleman  courting  an  incomparable 
lady,  both  in  full  dress. 

I  was  in  bed  when  I  was  alarmed  by  the  voice 
of  William,  crying  in  great  distress  from  the 
upper  story,  "Mary,  Mary,  send  Mr.  Koster 
here  !  send  Mr.  Koster  here  directly !  The 
Coachmen  are  getting  into  the  gentlemen's  beds, 
and  I  can't  make  them  understand  me."  It  had 
been  arranged  that  William  should  sleep  in  the 
same  room  with  Koster  and  Mr.  Nash,  there 
being  no  other  place.  Accordingly  he  had  gone 
to  bed  and  fallen  asleep,  but  happening  to  open 
his  eyes  on  hearing  some  stir  in  the  chamber,  to 
his  utter  astonishment  he  saw  the  two  coachmen 
undressing  themselves  and  about  to  take  pos- 
session. Up  ran  Mr.  Nash  and  Senhor  Henrique 
at  the  outcry,  hardly  able  to  claim  their  beds 

[        151        ] 


I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


for  laughing  at  the  circumstance— and  the 
scene.  The  coachmen,  when  they  discovered 
their  mistake,  were  equally  amused.  The  whole 
party,  having  heard  the  uproar,  joined  in  the 
laugh,  and  we  never  went  to  rest  more  merrily 
than  at  Herve.     Nesda  mens  hominum. 

For  the  only  time  during  the  journey  Edith 
May  had  not  been  lodged  in  the  same  room 
with  us.     The  beds  in  our  chamber  would  only 
hold  one  person  each.     Mary  had  a  larger,  and 
Edith   therefore  was  to  sleep  with  her.     The 
child  had  a  miserable  night  owing  to  a  sore 
throat  which  had  not  been    perceived  before, 
but  which  was  doubtless  occasioned  by  exposure 
to  the  sharp  wind  at  the  Spa  races,  and  pro- 
bably aggravated  by  the  discomfort  of  the  bed  ; 
for  it  is  impossible  for  any   person    to   sleep 
between    two   beds   or   mattrasses  unless   they 
have  been  used  to  it,  and  all  of  us,  not  having 
learnt  to  sleep  in   the  German  fashion,  found 
ourselves  repeatedly  without  any  covering  during 
the  night.     She  was,  owing  to  this  cause,  ex- 
posed alternately  to  heat  and  cold,  and  obtained 
no  rest.    Being  accustomed  to  seeing  the  tonsils 
of  all    my  children  frequently  swoln  without 

[        152        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


producing  any  inconvenience  I  was  not  alarmed, 
and  strolled  into  the  town  before  breakfast  with 
an  easy  and  unapprehensive  mind.     We  found 
a  good  church  internally,  tho'   of   little  out- 
ward beauty  ;  and  we  saw  a  pig  fastened  by  one 
leg  to  a  stake  in  the  street,  and  presently  heard 
unequivocal  proofs  that  they  were  killing  him 
there.     Here  and  at  Verviers  we  observed  the 
whole  preparation  of  the  Haidlle,  as  coal  of  this 
kind  is  called.     Men  tread  it  like  mortar,  and 
women  make  it  into  rolls  or  loaves  with  their 
hands ;  it  is  put  into  the  stove  with  a  trowel 
when  the  hands  are  not  used  instead.     There 
were  several  carts  full  of  the  Herve  or  Limbourg 
cheese  in  the  town,  and  you  might  nose  them 
at  a  considerable   distance.     These  cheeses,  as 
abominable   in   smell  as  they  are  excellent  in 
flavour,  are  made  in  the  shape  and  size  of  ordi- 
nary bricks,  and  packed  in  the  carts  very  nicely 
upon  straw. 

Returning  to  the  inn,  I  found  that  Edith 
had  much  fever,  and  that  her  throat  was  fright- 
fully swoln.  We  were  between  fi\e  and  six 
leagues  from  Aix  la  Chapelle,  and  thither  it 
was  necessary  to  proceed ;  for  as  to  remaining 

[        153       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


where  we  were  it  was  impossible.  There  were 
neither  accommodations  for  sickness  nor  medical 
aid  if  it  should  be  needed.  I  went  out  again, 
looked  for  a  Stag's  Horns  (the  sign  over  an 
Apothecary's  door  in  these  countries),  and  bought 
volatile  spirit  of  ammonia,  the  knowledge  of  a 
medical  term  proving  for  once  in  my  life  of 
some  use.  But  the  appearance  of  the  Apothe- 
cary made  me  shudder  to  think  how  I  should 
have  felt  if  it  had  been  necessary  to  call  him  in 
and  rely  upon  him.  This  was  applied.  The 
child  had  been  sick  after  taking  some  Eau  de 
Cologne;  she  appeared  to  rally.  We  set  off, 
and  the  air  seemed  at  first  to  revive  her.  But 
it  soon  became  expedient  to  remove  her  to  the 
close  carriage,  and  by  the  time  we  reached 
Aix  la  Chapelle  she  was  very  ill. 

The  country  is  one  of  the  richest  I  ever  saw, 
completely  spotted  with  villages  and  single 
houses.  In  richness  and  woodiness  it  resembles 
the  best  parts  of  Kent  or  Herefordshire.  Pic- 
tiu^sque  it  is  not,  and  its  features  ai*e  too  even 
to  be  beautiful ;  but  it  bears  abundant  marks 
of  industry,  activity,  and  of  a  thriving  popu- 
lation.     It   improved   in   beauty   as   we   drew 

[        154        ] 


nearer   Aix.     We   past   one   pleasant  country 
house,  which  had  a  series  of  fish  ponds  belonging 
to  it  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road.     The 
carts  (for  they  are  upon  two  wheels)  seem  to 
be  preposterously  long;   they  are  very  neatly 
covered  with  cloth  when  the  goods  require  cover. 
Walking  up   a  long  hill   I   observed  a  great 
number  of  pansies  entirely  yellow.     The  only 
place  where  I  remember  them  growing  wild  in 
England  is  at  Busselton,  near  St.  Helens  Auck- 
land.    I  know  not  why  it  is  that  local  recollec- 
tions  are  so  vividly  recalled   by  the  sight  of 
flowers  and  by  odours ;  but,  according  to  my 
experience,  nothing  makes  the  strings  of  memory 
vibrate  so  finely.     The  Belgian  Custom  House 
is  neai^  the  boundary,  and  after  a  few  minutes 
delay   there    a    few   franks   prevented  further 
trouble.     Near  the  city  there  are  whole  fields  of 
cabbages  of  both  colours. 

We  heard  at  the  Custom  House  that  the 
King  of  Prussia  was  expected  every  hour  from 
Liege ;  and  accordingly,  when  we  entered  Aix 
the  whole  population  was  in  motion,  and  the 
streets  were  crowded  to  receive  him,  so  that  we 
trembled    for    a   lodging.      Yesterday  a  like 

[        155        ] 


JOURNAL     OF     A     TOUR 


apprehension  at  Verviers  and  at  Herve  had 
been  a  matter  of  jest ;  in  our  present  situation 
it  was  truly  painful,  for  the  child  was  worsening 
every  minute.  The  Dragon  d'Or,  to  which  we 
had  been  directed,  was  full ;  the  Hotel  Grande, 
chez  Debig'h,  which  is  next  door,  took  us  in. 
While  arrangements  were  making  for  the  rooms 
I  walked  out  for  half  an  hour.  On  my  return 
the  child  appeared  so  ill  that  I  thought  it 
necessary  to  look  for  a  physician.  There  was 
or  seemed  to  be  a  risque  of  being  recommended 
to  some  ignorant  or  unprincipled  fellow  if  I 
asked  the  people  of  the  inn  to  recommend  one. 
I  therefore  went  to  the  Banker  to  whom  mv 
circular  letter  was  addrest,  and  asked  him 
where  I  should  apply.  He  directed  me  to 
Dr.  Reumont,  who  had  studied  at  Edinburgh. 

The  complaint  was  severe  without  being 
dangerous,  farther  than  the  danger  which  always 
exists  that  such  a  disease  may  put  on  a  malig- 
nant type.  Under  any  circumstances  I  should 
have  been  anxious;  and  here  we  were  under 
curious  circumstances  of  discomfort.  The  people 
of  the  house  were  brutal  in  the  extreme.  We 
were  obliged  to  take  what  we  wanted,  for  they 

t        156        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

would  not  bring  it  us,  and  to  prepare  every- 
thing ourselves.  Mrs.  Vardon's  servants  were 
of  great  use  in  purveying  for  us  and  foraging 
for  what  was  necessary.  During  two  days  it 
was  only  water  that  she  needed  and  the  things 
required  in  medicine.  She  had  been  ordered  to 
use  a  warm  gargle  every  hour,  even  if  it  were 
necessary  to  wake  her  for  that  purpose.  This 
was  not  needful,  for  she  never  slept  an  hour  at 
a  time  ;  but  one  of  the  women  servants  abso- 
lutely refused  to  let  us  have  fuel  for  keeping  up 
a  fire  during  the  night  in  the  adjoining  room. 
She  said  we  had  been  supplied  three  times  in 
the  course  of  the  day ;  and  if  it  had  not  been 
for  a  poor  civil  German  woman,  who  speaks  no 
French,  and  whom  I  talked  with  by  help  of  the 
grammar,  we  should  have  been  without  fire. 
On  Thursday  she  grew  better,  but  apparently 
fell  back  at  night.  Friday  the  amendment  was 
more  certain,  but  at  night,  when  for  the  first 
time  she  was  disposed  to  a  natural  and  restoring 
sleep,  the  whole  Prussian  band  struck  up  in  the 
yard  under  our  window  and  played  for  about  an 
hour ;  and  what  made  it  more  provoking  was 
that  it  was  done  as  a  compliment  to  our  party. 

[        157        ] 


JOURNAL    O  t    A    TOUR 


This  roused  her  so  compleatly  that  she  did  not 
sleep  a  wink  till  three  o'clock,  tho'  between 
one  and  two  I  got  out  of  bed  and  read  to  her 
for  half  an  hour  in  hope  of  composing  her. 
Saturday,  however,  the  disease  was  subdued ;  it 
left  her  greatly  reduced,  and  with  a  compleat 
prostration  of  spirits. 

Miserable  as   the  occasion  was   which   thus 
delayed  us  at  Aix  la  Chapelle,  the  delay  proved 
highly   advantageous.      Our   apartment   being 
close  to  the  sick  room   it  was  determined  to 
dine  at  the  table  d'hote  after  the  first  day,  and 
there  we  fell  into  the  company  of  some  Prussian 
officers  who   were  here  recovering   from    their 
wounds.     Major  Petry,  second  in  command  at 
this  place,  was  one.    His  companions  here  assure 
us  that  it  was  he  who  gained   the  battle   of 
Donowitz,  and  that  he  is  one  of  the  best  and 
most  distinguished  men  in  the  Prussian  service. 
His  face  is  a  singular  compound  of  two  coun- 
tenances perfectly  unlike  each  other— Carlisle's 
and  Rickman's,  the  character  of  the  latter  pre- 
dominating.    He    commanded    in    the    attack 
upon  Namur,  where  a  bullet  entered  his  throat 
under  the  tongue  and  came  out  at  the  back  of 

[        158        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


his  neck.  It  is  said  that  he  will  recover  his 
speech,  which  at  present  is  unintelligible  to 
those  only  who  are  accustomed  to  it. 

Capt.  Ferdinand  Augustus  Leopold  Francis 
von  Dresky,  a  Silesian  by  birth,  was  another  of 
our  new  acquaintances ;  during  our  stay  he  re- 
ceived the  cross  of  honour  and  his  promotion  to 
the  rank  of  Major  for  his  conduct  at  Ligny, 
where  he  was  severely  wounded.     Dresky  is  the 
officer  who  was   ridden  over  with  Blucher  in 
that  battle.     He  and  his  servant  and  the  old 
Greneral  knew  that  their  only  chance  of  escaping 
was  to  lie  as  if  they  were  dead.     After  awhile 
he  ventured  to  look  up  and  asked  his  men  if 
the  coast  were  clear.     "  I  am  glad  to  hear  you 
speak,''  was  the  reply.     In  person  I  certainly 
never  have  seen  any  man  who  excelled — perhaps 
hardly  any  one  who  in  all  respects  equalled  him 
as  to  outward  accomplishments.     At  this  time, 
when  he  is  overflowing  with  happiness, his  natural 
hilarity  has  full  scope  and  he  possesses  a  ver- 
satility of  talents  of  which  he  is  fully  conscious, 
and  which  he  delights  to  display.     His  musical 
powers  absolutely  astonished   me.     He    plays 
the  violin  (tho'  it  is  not  what  he  calls  his  in- 

[        159        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

strument)  in  such  a  manner  as  to  call  from  it 
the  tones  of  almost  every  instrument — flute, 
drum,  trumpet,  guitar,  etc.  His  voice  is  so 
powerful  that  he  led  the  band  with  it,  and  it 
predominated  above  their  music.  But  his  most 
extraordinary  exhibition  was  upon  the  Jews- 
harp,  an  instrument  differing  a  little  in  its  con- 
struction here  from  the  English  one  of  that 
name,  but  not  in  more  repute.  Playing  upon 
two  of  these  at  once  he  produced  sounds  as 
sweet  as  those  of  an  ^Eolian  harp ;  and  an  air 
in  which  he  echoed  with  the  one  the  notes  of 
the  other  was  more  magical  than  anything  I 
ever  heard  before.  He  assured  us  that  if  the 
candles  were  put  out  the  effect  would  be  greater, 
and  that  this  was  not  imagination,  but  that 
darkness  produced  an  actual  and  perceptible 
difference  in  the  sounds.  The  experiment  was 
made,  and  every  person  agreed  that  it  was  so ;  a 
fact  in  confirmation  of  an  opinion  which  I  have 
long  maintained. 

Another  of  these  officers  whom  I  shall  like 
to  remember  hereafter  is  a  young  Pomeranian, 
by  name  Geek,  son  of  a  rich  merchant  at 
Stettin.     He  is  said  to  resemble  the  Prince  of 

[        160        ] 


1!:LI1!Anetherlands 


Orange   most   strikingly,  and   is   therefore   no 
beauty,  but  from  what  is  said  of  the  Prince's 
present  conduct,  I  suspect  there  is  something  in 
Geek's  physiognomy  which  must  be  wanting  in 
his  Royal  Highness's  ;  for  this  is  at  once  a  very 
acute  countenance  and  a  very  honest  one      I 
found  him  not  only  well  acquainted  with  the 
literature  of  his  own  country,  but  estimating 
It  J  udiciously  and  speaking  of  the  merits  of  the 
different  poets  like  a  man  whose  opinions  were 
denved  from  the  right  source. 

But  the  most  interesting  person  with  whom 
we  fell  in  wa^  a  Major  in  the  German  Legion 
by   birth  a  Pole,  and   by    name  Constantine,' 
Charles,   Henry,  Ernest,   Frederick,  Augustus, 
Gustav  Adolph    de    Forster-for    so    he    has 
written  it  in  my  memorandum  book.     What  a 
polyonomous  person  !    Twice  as  many  names  as 
Dresky !     His  father  wa^  a  man  of  rank,  hold- 
ing  some  office  equivalent  to  that  of  our  Chan- 
cellor  of  the  Exchequer.     But  the  family  have 
been  marked  for  misfortune.     One  brother  was 
taken  by  the  conscription  and  died  in  a  hospital, 
broken-hearted.     He  himself  was  taken  prisoner 
by  the  French,  and   after   much   cruel   usage 

[       161       ]  ^ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


{being  made  to  march  barefoot,  etc.)  effected 
his  escape  by  way  of  Strasburg  almost  miracu- 
lously. He  was  afterwards  in  the  Duke  of 
Brunswick's  corps,  one  of  those  who  stood  by 
him  faithfully  to  the  last,  and  were  ill  requited 
by  that  Prince,  whose  only  merit  seems  to  have 
been  his  courage  and  his  patriotism,  for  Forster 
says  he  was  wanting  in  gi^atitude,  principle  and 
conduct.  In  1810  he  went  to  Spain  in  the 
German  Legion,  and  continued  there  till  the 
end  of  the  war,  where  by  marching  on  foot  in 
that  climate,  by  bivouacking,  and  by  a  fall  in 
the  Pyrenees  down  some  crags,  his  constitution 
has  received  most  serious  injury,  so  that  he  is 
here  on  unlimited  leave  of  absence  for  his 
health.  All  his  family  are  dead  except  two 
brothers;  the  one  is  a  poor  lad  of  18,  whom 
he  has  always  supported  out  of  his  pay,  and 
who  has  now  for  2  years  been  suffering  with 
an  abscess  of  the  spleen,  but  whom  he  speaks 
of  with  the  deepest  affection  and  the  highest 
admiration  for  his  spirit  and  genius.  The 
other,  who  was  also  with  the  D,  of  Brunswick, 
has  just  married  the  daughter  of  a  Sicilian 
noble.     Forster  had  written  his  own  memoirs 

[        162        ] 


up  to  the  year  1812,  when  he  lost  them  in  a 
shipwreck  off  Santona.     He  has  promised   to 
rewrite  them  under  my  roof  next  summer  if  he 
lives  so  long.     The  day  before  our  departure 
he  had  a  return  of  haemorrhage  from  the  liver, 
at  a  time  when  his  meeting  with  me  and  the' 
news  of  his  brother's  mamage  had  given  him 
better  hopes  and  more  chearful  feelings  than 
have  often  fallen  to  his  lot.     Illness  and  ill- 
fortune  have  fixed  a  melancholy  and  thoughtful 
character  upon  his  countenance,  naturally  fine, 
intellectual  and  open. 

All  these  men  were  Free  Masons,  and  Koster 
having  been  initiated  into  the  same  fraternity, 
an  acquaintance  with  them  was  facilitated  by 
that  circumstance.     When   I   was   introduced 
each  of  them  tried  me  as  he  shook  hands,  to  the 
discomposure  of  my  joints  and  knuckles  ;  and  I 
have  no  doubt  that  a  man  may  derive  some 
advantage   in   his   travels  from  being  a   Free 
Mason  if  he  can  condescend  to  degrade  himself 
by  submitting  to  its  mysteries  and  its  mum- 
meries.    ITie  acquaintance  began  at  table.    The 
Prussians  filled  their  glasses  with  champagne, 
stood  up,  and  addressing  themselves  to  us,  gave 

[        163       ] 


i 


r 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


the  Prince  Regent's  health.  In  return  we  ren- 
dei-ed  the  same  mark  of  respect  to  the  King  of 
Prussia.  Each  individual  then  gave  a  toast  in 
turn,  after  we  had  done  honour  to  the  D.  of 
Wellington  and  Marshal  Blucher,  and  when  my 
turn  came  I  mustered  up  French  enough  to 
sav,  "  The  Belle  Alliance  between  Prussia  and 
England;  may  it  continue  as  long  as  the 
memory  of  the  battle.''  The  Prussians  were  so 
pleased  at  this  that  they  rose  and  embraced 

me. 

It  is  not  possible  that  these  officers  can  be  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  Prussian  army,  for  they 
would  be  very  much  above  the  average  of  men 
anywhere  ;  but  there  may  be  good  hopes  for 
anv  nation  that  has  such  men  in  its  armies. 
They  had  a  national  feehng  at  once  proud  and 
generous,  such  as  the  last  two  years  of  their 
history  justified,  and  by  which  indeed  the  re- 
generation of  their  country  had  been  brought 
about.     Their  hatred  of  the  French  was  pro- 
found, principled  and  hearty,  and  perhaps  the 
more  indignant  for  the  contempt  with  which  it 
is  mingled.     There  were  some  regiments,  they 
told  us,  in  which  the  officers  had  made  a  rule 

[        164       ] 


I 


1 

i 

I 


I 

*■ 

% 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


that  any  one  of  them  who  spoke  a  word  in 
French  should  be  knocked  down.  I  shall  never 
forget  the  look  and  the  gesture  of  Dresky  when 
he  was  speaking  of  the  French  helmets  worn  by 
the  cuirassiers.  "They  save  the  head,*"  said 
he,  "  from  a  cut  in  this  direction  "  (suiting  the 
action  to  the  word).  "  But  I  never  cut  in  that 
manner;  when  I  cut  at  a  Frenchman  I  cut  thus,'' 
and  he  made  a  kind  of  feint  as  of  striking  right 
at  the  face. 

The  table  d'hote  had  some  English  visitants  ; 
they  were  an  old  hanidan  of  quality — Lady 
Aldborough,  I  think,  is  her  title,  sister  to  Lady 
Melbourne,  with  her  two  granddaughters.  Miss 
Rodney  and  Miss  Hallowell,*  young  Ladies  who 
seem  very  well  disposed  to  walk  in  the  way 
wherein  they  are  trained  up.  Finding  them- 
selves unnoticed  by  our  party,  and  that  we 
attracted  the  officers,  they  absented  themselves 
from  table  the  third  day,  and  decamped  the 
fourth. 

The  mistress  of  the  hotel  resembles  Lady 

in  person,  voice,  manner  and  expression ;  and 

*  One  of    these  very  Ladies  has  been  divorced 
this  year  (1824). 

[        165        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


tho''   she    is  by  no  means    so    handsome,    the 
likeness  is    as    striking  as  if  they  were   twin 
daughters  of  the  Devil.      Never  was   a  house 
under  worse  management.     The  first  improve- 
ment in  our  treatment  was  when  Koster  (follow- 
ing the  advice  of  the  Prussian  officers)  told  the 
waiter  he  would  thrash  him  if  he  did  not  attend 
upon  us  better;  the  second  when  Mr.  Vardon 
took  the  Landlady  to  task  and  roundly  repri- 
manded  her.      It   seems   the  economy    of  the 
household  was  that  there  was  a   woman  who 
>^'eighed    out  everything  to  the  servants,  and 
allowed  them  so  much  for  each  person  in  the 
house,  as  if  every  person  in  an  Inn  were  not 
entitled  to  have   as   much   of  anything  as  he 
chose  to  call  for. 

The  houille  or  klitter  Jire,  as  the  German 
woman  called  it,  requires  peculiar  management. 
Stirring  does  more  harm  than  good  ;  if  you 
blow  it  you  put  it  out.  An  Aix  la  Chapelle 
guide  which  I  bought  here  taught  me  to  make 
it  bum  up  by  sprinkling  salt  upon  it.  The 
fire  is  good  and  durable,  but  it  makes  a  great 
quantity  of  ashes. 

The  Cathedral,  here  called  the  Nostre  Dame, 

[        166        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

is  the  most  extraordinary  building  we  have  seen. 
The  central  part,  which  is  Charlemagne's  work, 
seems  to  have  been  built  after  a  Greek — that  is 
to  say,  a  Constantinopolitan  model ;  but  in 
every  succeeding  age  something  has  been  added, 
and  there  is  now  so  much  patchwork  that  some 
houses  which  have  been  built  round  the  one  end 
of  the  church,  between  the  buttresses,  so  as  to 
block  up  the  lower  part  of  the  longest  windows 
in  the  world  (such  I  suppose  them  to  be) 
hardly  appear  out  of  place.  There  remain  no 
other  vestiges  of  the  founder's  tomb  than  a 
large  slab  with  the  words  Carola  Magiio,  We 
did  not  see  the  relics.  There  are  some  very 
curious  brasses  in  the  wall  of  one  of  the  chapels  ; 
the  letters  are  raised  and  the  groundwork 
strongly  hatched,  which  makes  the  inscription 
much  more  distinct.  It  is  like  wood  engraving,  an 
impression  of  the  letters  might  have  been  taken. 
Under  some  of  these,  the  epitaph  of  some  old 
canon,  is  a  ghastly  representation  of  a  dead  body, 
with  worms  as  large  as  snakes  at  their  work. 
Some  lads  of  sixteen  or  eighteen  were  whipping 
tops  in  the  cloisters  and  smoaking  their  pipes  at 
the  same  time. 

[       167       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


We  had  intended  to  commence  our  retui^n  on 

Monday;    it  was,  however,  found  prudent  to 

remain  another  day,  that  Edith  might  recover 

a  httle  more  strength,  and  making  use  of  the 

time  I  went  up  the  hill  on  which  the  obelisk 

stands.     The  hill  is  called  Lausberg,  originally 

Luouesberch,  signifying,  according  to  M.  Pois- 

senot,  the  mount  of  observation.     Beacon-hill  is 

the  more  likely  meaning  of  the  name,  and  this 

explanation    of  the    Frenchman    savours    the 

obelisk,  which  beai-s  these  inscriptions: 

On  the  south  side  : 

Cette  pyramide  est  un  des  sommets  des  grands 
triangles  qui  ont  servi  de  base  a  la  carte  topo- 
graphique  et  militaire  des  departemens  reunis  de 
la  rive  gauche  du  Rhin,  levee  sous  le  regne  de 
Napoleon  le  Grand,  et  d'apres  les  ordres  de  S.A.S. 
le  prince  Alexandre  Berthier,  ministre  de  la 
guerre,  par  les  officiers  ingenieurs-geographes 
depot  general  de  la  guerre. 

On  the  west : 

Au  mois  de  Juillet  1804,  il  a  ^t^  fait,  au  pied 
de  cette  pyramide  des  observations  astronomiques 
par  M.  J.  Jos.  Tranchot,  astronome,  directeur  et 

[        168        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Colonel  au  corps  des  ingenieurs-geographes,  qui 
en  a  determine    la  latitude  de  50°,  47',  8"  8" ' 
et   la   longitude,   comptee  de  TObservatoire    de 
Paris  de  3°,  44',  57",  5"', 

On  the  north : 

La  distance  de  ce  point  k  la  ligne  meridienne, 
passent  par  I'Observatoire  de  Paris,  est  de 
264187°^,  7. 

La  distance  a  la  ligne  perpendiculaire  k  cette 
meridienne  passant  par  la  meme  Observatoire,  est 
de  223526°^,  7. 

La  distance  a  la  grande  tour  de  Sittard,  est  de 
28124^,  98. 

La  distance  a  la  grande  tour  D'Erkelens,  est  de 
SQ59&^  05. 

Cette  demiere  distance  forme,  avec  le  meridien 
de  ce  lieu,  un  angle  spherique  de  26°,  27'   11" 

21"'. 

On  the  east  the  original  inscription  was : 

A  Napoleon-le-Grand 

Premier  Empereur  des  Fran9ais 

et  Roi  d'ltalie  ; 

but  that  has  been  erased,  and  in  its  place  there 
now  stands  the  following  memorial  of  his  fall : 

[        169        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


Denckmal 

Gallischem 

Geburmuthe 

Einst  Gewerht 

mit  den 

Tyrannen 

Zugleich 

Gesturzt 

Am  11  April 

1814. 

Wieder 

Errichtet  Der 

Wissenschaft 

Und  Teutscher 

Kraft 

Am  Tage  der  Fever- 

-lichen  Huldigung 

Der  Prussischen 

Rhein-Laender 

Den  XV  May 

1815. 

Just  below  the  summit  of  this  hill  is  one  of 
the  coffee  houses  which  are  so  numerous  about 
this  city,  with  a  fine  room  commanding  a  rich 
and  extensive  prospect.  The  two  towers  of  the 
Town  House  come  in  very  finely  here  with  the 
Cathedral.     A  willowy  hue  still   predominates 

[        170        ] 


in  the  landscape,  and  the  effect  of  this  foliage  is 
increased  and  partly  modified  with  a  bluer  tinge 
by  the  quantity  of  ground  which  is  planted  with 
cabbages,  here  cultivated  more  extensively  for 
men  than  for  cattle  in   England.      I  am  per- 
suaded the  sour  krout  would  be  one  of  the  most 
useful   additions  that  could   be    made   to  our 
standard  food.     They  are  forming  a  fine  public 
walk  round  the  walls,  or  perhaps  were  making 
it,  for  it  was  commenced  in  Buonaparte's  time, 
who,  in  imitation  of  Charlemagne,  affected  to 
distinguish  this  city  by  his  favour.      Fishponds 
are    very  numerous  here,  tho'   one   never  saw 
any  fish  at  the  tahle-cThote  except  Red  herrings. 
We  drove  to  Borset,  or  Bursheid,  for  it  is  one 
inconvenience  in  these  countries  that  every  place 
has  two  names,  its  German  and  its  French  one, 
which  are  sometimes  very  different,  and  some- 
times  a    Dutch   name   equally   differing   from 
either ;  for  example,  Liege  is  called  Luttich  by 
the  Germans,  Luyk  by  the  Dutch ;  Aix  la  Cha- 
pelle  is  Achen  or  Aken.     Bursheid  is  a  large 
village  about  one  mile  from  the  city,  and  one  of 
the  hot  springs  for  which  this  part  of  the  country 
is  remarkable  rises  in  the  street,  in  a  large  open 

[        171        ] 


I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

octagon  walled  basin.  The  water  is  hot  enough 
to  dress  an  egg.  The  stream  which  it  produces 
flows  under  cover  for  about  an  hundred  yards — 
after  which  it  serves  as  a  general  washing  place, 
and  sundry  washerwomen  were  availing  them- 
selves of  it. 

The  poultry  are  very  familiar  in  this  city. 
They  frequently  come  into  the  public  room,  and 
in  a  stationer''s  shop  there  were  some  perched  on 
the  counter — a  familiarity  this  which  implies  in 
the  inhabitants  more  good  nature  than  cleanli- 
ness. There  is  a  cruel  consumption  of  small 
birds  in  all  these  countries,  insomuch  that  I 
wonder  that  they  are  not  extirpated,  for  they  are 
a  constant  and  favourite  dish  everywhere.  They 
dress  them  undrawn  like  woodcocks,  but  the 
sight  of  red  herrings  in  the  inside  is  by  no  means 
tempting.  We  saw  a  jay  in  the  market,  and  I 
am  told  magpyes  may  sometimes  be  seen  there. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Cabinet  of 

Baron  .      It   is   one   of  three   collections 

which  the  virtuosos  of  the  last  century  were 
fond  of  forming,  and  which  travellers  were  at 
one  time  chiefly  employed  in  visiting  and  cata- 
loguing.    It  was  the  fashion  then  for  travellers 

[        172        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

to  look  for  curiosities  and  antiquities,  and  they 
seem  to  have  had  no  eyes  for  anything  else. 
This  collection  is  rich  in  agates,  carved  ivory 
and  bronzes,  and  must  have  been  made  at  an 
enormous  expence.  The  room  was  filled  up 
with  stuff*ed  animals,  and  at  one  end  of  it  sate  a 
waxwork  old  gentleman  in  a  wig,  as  if  he  were 
reading  a  folio  on  the  table  before  him.  A 
singular  hisiis  naturcc  is  preserved  here :  a 
block  of  wood  sawn  transversely,  and  repre- 
senting a  profile  which  I  instantly  recognised  to 
be  like  that  of  Louis  16.  It  is  plainly  the 
natural  veining,  without  any  assistance  from 
art.  The  room  into  which  we  were  first  intro- 
duced had  its  walls  compleatly  covered  with 
prints,  of  which  great  part  were  of  English 
manufacture.  I  must  use  the  word,  because 
prints  are  manufactured  in  England,  the  spirit 
of  trade  degrading  everything  with  which  it 
connects  itself.  The  garden  of  this  Nobleman's 
seat  was  a  good  specimen  of  its  kind.  There 
was  a  piece  of  stagnant  water  there,  not  to  be 
condemned  because  it  served  as  a  fishpond,  and 
fishponds,  which  are  useful  everywhere,  are 
necessary  to  the  comfort  of  a  Catholic  family  in 

[        173        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


inland  countries.  It  was  very  small,  and  in 
gi-eat  part  overgrown  with  aquatic  plants;  yet 
an  island  had  been  formed  in  it,  communicating 
with  the  mainland  by  a  bridge,  and  on  this 
island  was  a  boat  house,  and  by  this  boat  house 
lay  a  boat,  which  three  strokes  of  the  oar  would 
have  sent  to  land  in  any  direction  except  one, 
where  perhaps  half  a  dozen  more  might  have 
been  required.  The  borders  and  alleys  were 
ornamented  with  a  railing  and  with  little 
Cupids  at  regular  intervals. 


Tuesday y  Oct,  17. 

Mr.  Short  wrote  to  Mr.  Vardon  from  Maes- 
tricht  to  let  him  know  that  the  road  was  very 
bad,  and  that  we  should  find  a  most  obliging 
hostess  at  the  Levrier.  This  Gentleman's  family 
it  was  which  had  forestalled  us  at  Verviers.  We 
had  spoken  with  him  there,  met  them  on  the 
next  day's  road,  and  were  at  the  same  hotel  at 
Aix.  He  is  a  Devonshire  man,  who,  having 
had  his  boys  educated  up  to  a  certain  age  by 
my  old  friend  Lightfoot  (of  whom  he  spoke  as 
one  loves  to  hear  an  old  friend  spoken  of),  had 

[        174       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


placed  them  at  Westminster  and  taken  a  house 
in  Abingdon  Street  for  the  sake  of  being  near 
them.  Colonel  Haliburton  called  on  us  with  a 
message  from  him  to  the  same  purport,  lest  his 
letter  should  not  have  arrived.  The  reason  of 
this  solicitude  on  his  part  was  that  he  had  wit- 
nessed the  behaviour  of  the  Aix-le-Chapelle 
Hostess,  and  knew  how  desirable  it  was,  in  case 
Edith  should  have  any  return  of  the  fever,  that 
we  should  find  common  humanity  in  the  mistress 
of  the  house. 

Our  coachmen  had  always  said  that  the  road 
to  Maestricht  was  bad,  and  that  a  third  horse 
for  each  caiTiage  would  be  necessary.  They 
had  heard,  however,  now  that  it  was  worse  than 
they  had  apprehended,  and  required  each  an 
additional  pair.  After  Mr.  Short's  letter  and 
the  Colonel's  account  of  this  road,  it  would  have 
been  unreasonable  to  have  made  any  demur; 
both  the  men,  moreover,  being  very  careful, 
civil,  and  obliging,  and,  I  believe,  very  honest — 
at  least  we  have  every  reason  to  think  so. 

Forster  would  have  risen  from  his  bed  and 
come  across  the  street  to  take  leave  of  us,  but  I 
extorted  a  promise  from  him  not  to  attempt 

[        175        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


this,  and  charged  his  servant  (a  faithful  old 
soldier,  who  has  refused  his  discharge  that  he 
may  still  attend  him)  not  to  allow  it.  He 
would,  however,  rise  and  come  to  the  window. 
I  parted  from  him  with  much  regret  and  much 
fear,  but  not  without  a  hope  that  our  meeting 
may  prove  of  some  advantage  to  himself — ^and 
to  history,  for  his  Memoirs,  seeing  what  he  is 
and  what  he  has  seen,  would  be  most  valuable. 
Major  Petry  was  to  have  escorted  us  out  of 
town,  but  his  wound,  or  rather  the  issue  at  the 
back  of  his  neck,  had  been  painful  in  the  night 
and  rendered  it  prudent  for  him  to  keep  his 
apartment.  We  took  leave  of  him  there,  where 
he  and  another  officer  were  smoking.  The  skin 
of  that  officer  was  covered  with  a  varnish  com- 
posed of  tobacco  smoke  and  perspiration. 
Dresky  and  Geek  drove  out  with  us  in  an  open 
carriage.  The  Commissionaire  had  taken  our 
passports  to  the  Commandant,  and  brought  us 
in  return  a  letter  of  surety  for  four  days,  to  be 
renewed  if  needful.  The  passports  were  now 
made  valid  for  Maestricht. 

Our  road  lay  round  the  end  of  the  Lausberg, 
on  which  the  obelisk  stands.      It  led  us  thro' 

[        17G        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


a  rich  and  pleasing  country ;  the  red  foliage  in 
the  landscape  exceeded  in  vividness  any  that  I 
remember   to   have   seen.     About  three   miles 
from  the  city  our  friends  took  their  farewell, 
Greek  with  an  honest  shake  of  the  hand  and  a 
promise  that  we  should  see  him  in  England, 
where  he  had  been  in  the  King's  train,  and  con- 
sequently had  seen  little  more  than  Kings  see. 
Dresky  saluted  Mr.  Vardon,  Koster  and  myself, 
the  only  persons  who  were  then  on  foot,  first  on 
the  right  side  of  the  nose,  then  on  the  left,  a 
ceremony  to    which   I   submitted    with  great 
resignation,  and  which  my  daughter  witnessed 
with  no  less  astonishment.     And  so  farewell  to 
Aix-la-Chapelle. 

The  road  was  even  worse  than  it  had  been 
represented.  An  Englishman  indeed  must  not 
expect  to  find  such  cross-roads  on  the  continent 
as  in  his  own  country,  far  as  they  are  even  there 
from  being  what  they  ought  to  be.  The  country 
fertile  and  populous,  and  tho'  in  its  pic- 
turesque appearance  not  entitled  to  a  higher 
epithet  than  pleasing,  pleasing  it  certainly  was 
to  a  high  degree.  Streams,  villages,  churches, 
a  chateau  here  and  there,   with  its  Flemish 

[        177       ]  M 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

towers,  and  a  general  woodiness  not  produced 
by  coppices  or  forests,  but  by  enclosures  and 
hedge  rows.  The  willowy  hue  again  predomi- 
nated when  we  had  left  the  bluer  tint  which  the 
vast  fields  of  cabbeige  occasion  round  the  city. 
A  residence  among  lakes  and  mountains  has 
not  in  any  degree  diminished  my  enjoyment 
of  humbler  and  milder  scenes.  We  past  a 
church  yard  full  of  gravestones,  noticeable 
because  we  had  not  observed  tombstones  before 
in  any  such  situation.  These  were  all  in  the 
form  of  a  short  cross,  the  arms  and  top  being 
broad  and  round. 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


When  we  were  about  three  miles  from  Maes- 
tricht  it  began  to  rain  most  heavily ;  in 
so  much  that  our  carriage  stopt  and  both 
Grumpy  and  the  postilion  took  shelter  under 
its  lee,  the  former  laughing  heartily  in  the 
best  humour,  till  the  pelting  had  abated  a  little, 

[       178       ] 


I 


I 


and   then  we  proceeded.     The  master  of  the 
horses,  one  of  the  hugest  and  heaviest  men  I 
ever  saw,  rode  postilion  to  the  first  carriage-— 
an  unmerciful  load  he  was,  for  he  was  at  least 
six  feet  in  stature,  and  all  his  limbs  were    of 
enormous    bulk.     Our  postillion   was    a    lad, 
apparently  about  seventeen,  who  smoked  as  he 
went,  according  to  the  abominable  custom  of 
this  country,  and   had   been  more   than   once 
admonished  by  his  master  to  pay  a  little  more 
attention  to   the  ofl-horse  lest  it  should  fall. 
The  fellow  chose  rather  to  attend  to  his  pipe, 
and  so  going  down  hill   the   horse    tript  and 
fell.     It  required  all  Grumpy's  skill  to  keep 
the  carriage  back,  and  well  it  was  that  Grumpy 
was  skilful ;  and  it  was  some  time  before  the 
horse  could  be  got   up.     But  then,  to  our  no 
small   astonishment,  the   lad,  tho'  he   himself 
had  not  fallen,  was  so  frightened  that  he  ran 
away,  meaning  to  make  his  way  back  to  Aix- 
la-Chapelle.      Koster  pui'sued    and    presently 
brought  him   back ;  he  still  declared  that  he 
would  drive  us  no  farther ;  upon  this  his  master 
gave  him   two  or  three  well  deserved  strokes 
with  the  whip,  and  getting  furious  as  he  gave 

[        179       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


way  to  anger,  threw  him  down  in  the  dirt  and 
trod  upon  his  neck.  Being  in  the  close  carriage 
I  was  so  placed  as  not  to  see  this  act  of 
ferocious  anger.  The  lad,  however,  was  more 
frightened  than  hurt;  and  the  last  fear  pre- 
vailing over  the  first,  he  remounted  and  we 
reached  Maestricht  safely.  The  distance  is  four 
posts — about  18  miles. 

The  atmosphere  was  so  thick  with  rain  that 
we  saw  little  of  the  city  as  we  approached  it, 
and  in  this  we  had  some  loss,  considering  its 
situation  and  its  importance  in  military  history. 
But  we  caught  a  sight  of  the  moats  and  ram- 
parts and  drawbridges  and  gates  in  passing 
them.  The  Levrier  is  not  so  pleasantly  situated 
as  those  hotels  which  stand  in  the  Great  Place ; 
the  Hostess  has,  however,  a  reputation  among 
English  travellers  for  obliging  civility,  and 
certainly  she  well  deserves  it.  Everything  here 
was  good  of  its  kind.  The  apartment  was  well 
furnished,  and  the  walls  so  full  of  closets  as 
literally  to  be  lined  with  them.  There  were 
some  family  portraits  decently  executed,  two 
landscapes  ill  cut  in  paper,  poor  specimens  of  a 
poor  art ;  a  bust  of  Voltaire  about  as  good  as 

[        180        ] 


I 


the  common  porcelain  ones  of  Wesley,  and 
a  companion  to  it  which  I  suppose  to  be 
Rousseau. 

Voila  quelque  chose  de  rare !  said  our  good- 
natured  hostess,  bringing  in  a  plate  of  wild 
strawberries  after  dinner — and  a  rare  it  must 
be  allowed  they  were  in  the  middle  of  October. 

There  was  no  stirring  out  of  doors  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day  because  of  the  continued 
rain. 

Wednesday/,  Oct.  18. 

There  is  a  very  fine  raven  belonging  to  this 
Hotel  with  a  mane  like  a  cock.  He  spoke  the 
word  Napoleon  distinctly.  Grumpy  tells  us 
there  was  one  in  this  city  which  was  known  to 
be  a  hundred  and  ten  years  old,  and  used  to 
wander  about  the  place  whither  he  pleased, 
being  known  to  every  man,  woman  and  child 
as  the  Old  Raven,  and  held  sacred  accordingly ; 
till  a  year  or  two  ago,  when  some  French 
soldiers  killed  it  in  mere  mischief. 

Mr.  Locker,  when  we  fell  in  with  him  at 
Bruges,  earnestly  advised  us  not  to  omit  seeing 
the  quarries  at  Maestricht,  which  are  the  most 

[       181       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


remarkable   excavations   of    their   kind.      We 
hired  two  hackney  coaches  at  six  franks  each  to 
take  us  thither,  and  according  to  custom  drove 
thro'    them    in    the   usual    route.      But     the 
horses  in  one  turned  restive,  and   had  nearly 
overturned   it;     the    way    owing   to   the    rain 
proved  actually  impassable  ;  of  necessity  there- 
fore we  got  out,  and  fearful  of  her  catching 
cold  I  carried  Edith  May  over  the  wet  ground. 
We  entered  the  hill,  or  mountain  as  it  is  called, 
under  a  low  arch  of  masonry,  where  my  Lady 
Governess,  feeling  the  oppressiveness  of  the  air, 
would  fain  have  tunied  back  if  I  would  have 
permitted  her,  or  if  there  had  been  any  one  to 
have  retui-ned  with  her.     But  we  soon  past  this 
low  entrance  and  found  ourselves  in  the  excava- 
tions, where,  dead  as  the  air  is,  and  motionless, 
it  produces  no  sense  of  weight  or  suffocation. 
We  continued  walking  about  an  hour  at  a  good 
brisk  pace  in  these  endless  labyrinths,  where  I 
believe  none  of  the  party  felt  themselves  per- 
fectly at  ease  except  the  Guide,  for  irretrievably 
lost  we  must  have  been  without  him,  as  soon  as 
we  had  lost  sight  of  the  entrance.     Certainly  it 
is  not  prudent  to  venture  into  such  a  labyrinth 

[        182        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

with  only  one  guide  who  knew  the  way,  and  no 
more  than  two  flambeaux,  which  were  both 
lighted  at  the  same  time.  But  I  determined,  in 
case  these  should  by  any  accident  fail  us,  to  sit 
down  immediately  and  wait  till  we  should  be 
missed  at  the  Hotel  and  search  made  for  us. 
For  if  we  remained  in  any  part  of  the  regular 
course,  there  we  should  be  found.  Among  the 
names  inscribed  on  the  white  stone  pillars  and 
roof  was  that  of  Ellen  Locker.  Buonaparte 
had  been  there  and  the  Prince  of  Orange.  The 
sides  indeed  were  everywhere  marked  with  the 
memorials  of  former  visitors.  They  led  us  to 
a  stone  hollowed  like  a  basin,  into  which  water 
continually  falls  from  the  roof,  drop  by  drop ; 
and  to  a  chapel  decorated  upon  the  excavated 
sides  with  drawings  of  purgatory,  etc.,  by  no 
means  ill  executed.  Here  and  there  were  other 
drawings,  heads,  or  whole-length  figures,  and 
in  one  place  a  Cherubira''s  head.  We  were  told 
that  these  excavations  extend  all  the  way  to 
Liege.  I  believe  indeed  that  both  cities  have 
been  built  from  them. 

None  of  our  party  were  so  entirely  at  their 
ease  dming  this  hour's  walk  as  not  to  acknow- 

[        183        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

ledge  a  feeling  of  hearty  pleasure  when  once 

more  in  sight  of  daylight.     We  debouched  upon 

an  eminence  above  the  Meuse,  having  on  the 

right  the  ruins  of  a  Castle  which  the  Guide 

assured  us  was  built  by  Julius  Caesar  ;  and  on 

the  left  shut  in  by  the  door  of  what  had  once 

been  a  Convent  of  Recollets,  but  is  now  in  great 

part  demolished,  and  the  rest  converted  into  a 

coffee-house  and   public    garden.      Maestrichc 

was   on   our   left.     The  scene  reminded  us  in 

some  respects  of  the  view  over  the  same  river 

from  Namur;  it  is  not  so  fine,  but  we  came 

upon  it  in  a  manner  to  make  us  feel  its  beauty 

most  sensibly.    Few  things  can  be  more  striking 

thsin  to  emerge  from  a  long  subterranean  walk 

upon  such  a  prospect  in  light  and  sunshine; 

and   it  is  well  worth  while  to   go  into  these 

frightful   excavations,   were    it    only    for    the 

pleasure  of  coming  out  of  them.     It  was  from 

the  recollections  of  having  felt  thus  at  Wokey 

Hole  some  twenty  years  before,  that  I  wrote  the 

beginning  of  the  last  canto  but  one  in  Kehama. 

When  we  entered  the  Gate  yesterday  a  young 

Belgian  Officer  very  civilly  said  he  would  not 

detain  us  in  the  rain,  but  would  send  for  our 

[        184       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


passports.  This,  however,  was  not  done.  The 
English  are  apt  to  complain  of  this  part  of  the 
police  in  other  countries.  We  have  never 
experienced  the  slightest  trouble  or  inconveni- 
ence from  it,  and  the  regulation  appears  to  me 
not  only  necessary  at  this  time,  but  reasonable 
and  useful  at  all  times. 

On  our  return  to  the  Hotel  the  carriages  were 
ready,  and  we  started  before  twelve  o'clock. 
The  drivers  lost  some  twenty  minutes  by  taking 
a  wrong  road  when  they  set  out.  Three  leagues 
over  the  pav4  to  Tongres,  a  little  before  we 
reached  it,  there  are  some  large  and  very  well- 
shaped  barrows.  This  place,  once  of  such  cele- 
brity, is  now  in  a  state  of  sad  decay.  It  has 
never  recovered  the  wanton  havoc  committed 
there  by  the  French  in  Louis  the  14th's  time.  No 
modem  nation  has  so  many  crimes  of  this  kind 
to  disgrace  its  history  as  the  French.  And 
perhaps  there  is  not  any  Prince  who  ought  to  be 
so  peculiarly  odious  for  the  havoc  which  his 
armies  committed  as  Louis  14. 

The  Church  here,  which  is  said  to  have  been 
the  first  that  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary 
on  this  side  the  Alps,  was  set  on  fire  by  those 

[        185       ] 


K 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


wretches,  and  its  fine  tower  destroyed.  It  is 
still  a  grand  and  venerable  edifice,  tho'  dis- 
figured by  some  incongruous  additions.  We 
entered  it  in  time  to  be  present  at  a  christening. 
The  child,  which  had  been  born  that  day,  was 
well,  or  rather  ill  swaddled  in  the  old  prepos- 
terous fashion,  and  wrapt  in  a  mantel  most 
richly  embroidered  with  coloured  silks.  The 
midwife  carried  it,  and  the  father  and  sponsors 
attended— decent  people  in  humble  life.  The 
ceremony  was  mumbled  over  by  the  Priest  with 
as  much  haste  and  as  little  decorum  as  it  is 

by  the  Vicai-   of ,   and  the  infant  having 

been  blown  upon,  touched  with  spittle,  crost, 
chrisened,  sprinkled,  oiled  and  salted,  was  laid 
on  the  altar.  I  observed  that  while  the 
Priest  read  the  office  the  lips  of  the  attendants 
moved  as  if  mechanically,  tho'  they  did  not 
understand  what  he  was  saying.  The  service 
was  performed  at  one  of  the  side  altai's,  but  I 
neglected  (which  I  am  sorry  for)  to  observe  of 
what  Saint,  and  to  ask  the  name  of  the  child. 
A  five-frank  piece  was  given  for  her,  as  a 
memento  that  some  English  travellers  had  been 
present  at  her  baptism. 

[        186        ] 


! 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

We  lunched  here  with  good  appetites  upon 
bread,  butter,  cheese  and  wine,  good  things 
which  you  meet  with  good  of  their  kind  every- 
where in  these  countries — the  bread,  I  think, 
always  better  than  in  England,  and  the  butter 
and  cheese  generally  so.  Our  room  was  hung 
with  canvas  painted  in  good  imitation  of 
tapestry.  I  went  out  to  look  for  some  fruit, 
and  finding  some  excellent  apples,  proffered  in 
payment  a  piece  of  the  base  metal  which  is 
current  here,  but  which  had  been  refused  at  the 
Liege  post  office.  It  was  as  much  like  a  button 
as  a  bad  shilling ;  they  gave  me  as  many  apples 
as  my  pockets  would  hold,  and  a  heap  of  copper 
money  beside  in  exchange.  Upon  the  same 
stall  there  were  large  snails  lying  for  sale — the 
common  large  house-snail,  not  the  larger  kind 
which  Sir  Kenelm  Digby  imported,  and  which, 
if  it  still  exists  in  Buckinghamshire,  has  not, 
I  believe,  travelled  beyond  it. 

Here  we  were  assured  that  the  next  two 
leagues  were  actually  impassable  without  four 
horses  to  each  carriage,  and  would  scarcely  be 
passable  with  them.  The  Landlady  at  Maes- 
tricht  had  boasted  of  the  road  to  Louvaine  as  a 

[        187        ] 


4# 


JOUkiNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


light  half  day's  journey  for  us — it  was  only  two 
leagues,  she  said,  of  country  road  (de  terre  was 
her  expression),  and  the  rest  of  the  way  was  like 
the  street — which  we  should  have  thought  no 
recommendation  in  England,  but  here  it  is  as 
desirable  for  the  traveller  to  get  on  the  stones 
as  it  is  there  to  get  off  them.  For  noise  and 
jolting,  however,  the  paved  roads  are  just  like 
the  streets.  We  now  perceived  that  we  had 
been  at  cross  purposes  with  Colonel  Haliburton, 
and  that  this  was  the  stage  concerning  which 
Mr.  Short  had  desired  him  to  wani  us.  There 
waij  some  delay  in  getting  horses  from  the 
plough,  and  we  resumed  our  journey  about  four 
o'clock. 

The  Church  continued  in  sight  as  long  as 
there  was  light  for  distinguishing  it — a  grand 
and  solemn  object  in  this  wide  and  open  plain. 
Of  what  coarse  clay  must  those  beasts  upon  two 
legs  be  formed  who  are  for  pulling  down  Cathe- 
drals and  building  Meeting  Houses  ! 

The  roads  were  indeed,  as  Grumpy  called 
them,  abominable.  Three  times  we  were  ob- 
liged to  alight  and  walk  while  the  carriages 
were  dragged  thro'  places  so  bad  that  it  was 

[        188        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

doubtful  whether  they  would  escape  an  over- 
turn. These  places  were  generally  deep  sloughs. 
But  in  one  part,  the  way  from  one  line  of  road 
(if  road  it  may  be  called)  into  another  had  been 
banked  up  by  the  owner  of  the  ground  at  the 
farther  end,  leaving  the  other  open  where  we  had 
entered,  so  that  we  were  caught  as  in  a  trap.  In 
the  midst  of  this  difficulty,  where  the  nicest 
driving  was  required,  the  pin  of  our  carriage 
came  out,  and  never  did  I  see  more  presence  of 
mind  and  judicious  exertion  than  were  displayed 
in  replacing  it.  Indeed,  both  drivers  and  pos- 
tilions behaved  with  the  greatest  alacrity  and 
good  humour,  and  we  got  through  at  the 
expense  only  of  a  few  sacrds  and  sacrements.  An 
Englishman  seems  to  increase  his  angry  or 
vexed  feelings  by  swearing,  but  the  pests  and 
sacr4s  which  are  in  use  here  appear  to  act  as 
safety  valves.  The  words  are  uttered  with  a 
slow  and  deliberate  earnestness  of  enunciation, 
in  which  the  vexation  that  called  them  forth 
passes  away.  The  third  of  these  passes  was  an 
absolute  Slough  of  Despond — ^a  long  piece  of 
hollow  road  half  full  of  water ;  but  we  had  here 
the  distant  sound  of  wheels  upon  the  paved  way 

[        189       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


— and  few  sounds  were  ever  more  welcome  to 
our  ears.  In  the  midst  of  this  slough,  where 
the  water  and  mud  were  up  to  the  horses'* 
bellies,  the  pin  came  out  a  second  time,  and 
was  a  second  time  with  equal  dexterity  replaced, 
tho'  poor  Grumpy  could  only  act  by  the  sense 
of  feeling,  it  now  being  too  dark  for  him  to  see 
what  he  was  about.  We  were  at  this  time 
walking  on  the  high  and  dry  bank  above,  and 
just  then  the  moon  rose  behind  us,  red  as  blood, 
over  the  wide  and  open  country  which  we  were 
leaving. 

Having  at  length  cleared  this  passage,  we 
reached  the  chaitss^.  From  Maestricht,  as  far 
as  Tongres,  I  believe  to  be  the  Liege  road  from 
that  city,  and  we  had  now  crost  into  the  road 
from  Liege  to  Brussels.  The  first  letter  in  the 
alphabet  represents  the  course — A :  we  have 
gone  up  the  left  leg  half  way,  and  then  struck 
by  the  cross  line  into  the  right  one,  instead  of 
describing  the  angle.  There  is  a  poor  cabaret 
where  this  bye-road  opens  into  the  high  one, 
and  we  went  in  to  warm  ourselves  and  dry  our 
feet  while  the  horses  rested.  The  only  liquor 
it  afforded  was  white  beer,  a  weak,  fresh,  and 

[        190        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


not  unpleasant  beverage,  tasting  well  of  the 
malt ;  if  bottled  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  it 
would  be  a  very  agreeable  summer  drink.  The 
kitchen  was  full  of  country  fellows  who  neither 
moved  their  hats  nor  appeared  in  the  slightest 
degree  curious  at  beholding  so  large  a  party  of 
foreigners.  One  man  sate  writing  a  letter  the 
whole  time,  without  once  lifting  his  eyes  from 
the  paper.  The  mistress  of  the  house  was  a 
woman  of  prodigious  stature,  at  least  six  feet 
high.  They  were  all  decent  in  their  appeai-- 
ance,  and  I  may  remark  here  that  during  our 
whole  journey  we  have  seen  no  drunkenness,  no 
quarrelling  (unless  the  affair  of  yesterday  with 
the  postillion  be  called  so,  which  was  rather  a 
matter  of  chastisement),  and  no  ill  behaviour  of 
any  kind.  We  had  full  leisure  for  looking  at 
these  people  well,  and  were  all  struck  by  the 
general  good  expression  of  their  countenances. 

Here  the  extra  horses  were  dismissed ;  the 
stage  had  been  severe  tho'  short  (about  six 
miles),  and  the  drivers  were  very  thankful  for  a 
frank  each,  which  they  had  well  deserved.  We 
paid  for  what  our  own  horses  had  here,  and  also 
for  the  coachmen — which  put  them  also  in  high 

[        191        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

good  humour.  They  were  two  civil,  good 
fellows  6is  ever  travellers  fell  in  with.  The 
moonlight  served  us  well  for  our  stage  to  St. 
Trou,  which  was  three  leagues.  Our  inn  was 
the  Hotel  de  Sauvage.  We  went  into  the 
public  room,  which  was  heated  by  a  comfortless 
stove  in  the  middle,  and  there  we  found  a  Bel- 
gian officer,  who  commanded  the  detachment 
stationed  in  this  poor  decayed  town.  Like 
every  man  with  whom  we  have  conversed,  he 
seemed  to  have  a  strong  impression  that  things 
were  by  no  means  settled.  Peace,  he  said,  had 
been  dictated  to  the  French,  but  not  accepted 
by  them.  The  mistress  of  the  house  said  we 
must  not  expect  much  in  so  poor  a  place  as 
St.  Trou,  which  she  called  a  village.  What  we 
had,  however,  was  excellent  in  its  kind — chops, 
fricassee,  and  omelet.  The  beds  were  good,  and 
the  charges  more  reasonable  than  had  been  any- 
where else.  I  have  called  her  the  mistress  be- 
cause we  supposed  her  to  be  so,  but  it  appeared 
afterwards  that  the  mistress  was  ill,  and  there 
w£is  a  Beguine  in  the  house  nursing  her,  from 
a  Beguinage  near  the  town. 


IN 


THE    NETHERLANDS 


[ 


192 


] 


'I 

4 

;l 


Thursday/,  Oct  19. 

Our  chamber  was  a  very  large  room  with  a 
black  floor,  the  hearth  a  singular  composition, 
being,  if  Edith  May  and  I  were  not  both  mis- 
taken, made  of  rushes,  like  a  chair-bottom,  or 
of  twine  (we  could  not  ascertain  which),  plaited 
in  a  diaper  pattern  and  thickly  painted.     We 
had  a  quilt  of  yellow  sattin.     Here,  and  almost 
everywhere,  the  tables  are  covered  with  an  oiled 
marble-paper,  set  in  a  wooden  border.      The 
tower  with  the  chimes  stands  in  the  great  Place ; 
it  bears  the  date  of  1606,  and  is  painted  black 
and  white.     There  is  also  a  large  church,  by 
which  some  fine  old  flat  tombstones  were  lying, 
broken   and   half  covered   with   filth.      Large 
blocks  of  coal  were  to  be  seen  in  the  shops,  as 
if  sold  by  weight. 

Three  leagues  to  Tirlemont.  By  the  way  we 
noticed  an  odd  contrivance  for  the  poultry. 
Some  six  or  more  feet  from  the  ground  there 
was  a  hole  in  the  wall,  to  serve  as  a  door  for 
them ;  and  sticks  were  driven  into  the  wall,  at 
intervals,  like  the  steps  of  a  ladder,  for  them  to 
ascend  by.     We  saw  this  at  so  many  farms  that 

[        193        ]  N 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


it  is  plainly  the  custom  here,  and  I  suppose  it 
is  found  to  secure  them  from  vermin.  Some 
mud  houses  here  have  the  whole  side,  which  is 
most  exposed  to  the  weather,  covered  with 
thatch.  The  villages  are  not  by  the  roadside  ; 
the  churches  very  numerous  everywhere.  Here 
I  saw  a  Royston  crow,  or  what  I  took  to  be 
one — a  crow  with  the  head  and  wings  black 
and  the  body  grey.  We  past  over  Dumouriez' 
field  of  battle,  in  a  wide  and  open  country. 

The  gate  thro'  which  we  entered  has  been 
painted  Orange  colour,  in  compliment  to  the 
new  sovereign.     Much  as   I  may  approve  the 
old  cry  of  Orange  boven,  I  certainly  do  not  like 
an  orange  coloured  town  gate.  The  Plat  (TEtain 
here  is  a  good  hotel.     The  Landlord  remembers 
the  battle  in  1792,  when  a  fourth  part  of  the 
town  was  destroyed  by  an  explosion ;  and  this 
house  had  all  its  windows  shattered,  tho'  far 
enough  from    the  spot   to  escape  any  greater 
injury.     This  would  account  for  the  wide  space, 
and  the  number  of  fields  within  the  circuit  of 
its  old  walls.      But  no  part  of  Europe  has  suf- 
fered so  frequently,  or  so  severely,  from  war  as 
these  poor  countries,  of  which  Tirlemont  and 

[        194       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


St.  Trou  and  Tongres  are  melancholy  proofs ; 
and  the  latter  place  especially,  which  is  the  more 
melancholy  because  it  is  a  famous  and  a  vener- 
able name. 

There  is  a  fine  church  at  Tirlemont,  not  a 
little  disfigured   by  the   buildings   which    are 
stuck  against  its  sides.      Buying  some  apples  I 
was  surprized  to  find  that  the  woman  who  sold 
them  spoke  English.    I  bought  also  two  coloured 
prints,  designed  for  children,  of  the  very  coarsest 
kmd,  but  not  a  little  curious,  representing  in 
a  series   of  compartments,  one   the  history  of 
Gulliver,  the  other  that  of  Tom  Thumb,  with 
Flemish  verses  under  each.      Both  stories  are 
greatly  corrupted.     Gulliver  is  made  to  die  in 
Brobdignag  by  falling  into  a  tureen  of  soup, 
and   Tom    Thumb    by  falling    into    a    pond 
from   a  tree   where  he  has   climbed   to   steal 
apples. 

The  trappings  of  the  horses  are  in  general 
very  handsomely  ornamented  with  brass  nails. 
The  leaders  in  these  huge  waggons  are  usually 
three  abreast,  the  shaft  horses  in  pairs.  The 
cattle  seem  to  be  very  well  used.  I  have  seen 
neither   instance  nor  marks   of  cruelty   to   an 

[        195        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


I 


i 


animal,  and  I  fear  no  man  could  travel  a  day 
in  England  without  perceiving  both. 

When  a  nosegay  is  stuck  in  a  cart  or  waggon, 
it  is  undei-stood  as  signifying  that  what  is  for 
sale  there  is  of  the  best  quality. 

Two  leagues  to  Louvain.     Here,  as  at  Tirle- 
mont,  there  aie  fields  and  barns  within  the  old 
walls  ;  but  Louvain  is  still  a  very  large   and 
populous  city.   In  the  early   part  of  the  15th 
century  (the  golden  age  of  the  Low  Countries) 
it  was  the  largest  city  on  this  side  the  Alps. 
We  had  seen  no  dogs  used  in  draught  since  we 
left  Brussels  till  we  arrived  here.     The  church 
of  St.  Pauls  here  has  a  most  magnificent  pulpit : 
one  side  represents  the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul, 
the   other   St.    Peter,   sitting,   with   the   keys. 
These  Pulpits  in  the  Low  Countries  I  suppose 
to  be  the   finest   specimens  of  carving  in  the 
worid.     Nor,  indeed,  is  sculpture  anywhere  to 
be  seen  upon  so  large  a  scale  of  design  and 
execution.     Chaire  de  la   Veriti,  they  call  the 
pulpit,  a  felicitous  name,  considering  the  enor- 
mous fables  which  have  been  delivered  from  it 
in  Roman  Catholick  countries.     I  have  in  my 
possession  Catholick  sermons  containing  stories 

[        1%        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


quite  as  amusing  and  quite  as  true  as  any  in 
Mother  Goose. 

At  our  Inn  here,  the  Hotel  de  Cologne,  there 
is  the  same  luxury  of  plate  glass  windows  as  at 
Brussels.  The  windows  everywhere  fasten  as 
they  do  at  Lisbon,  with  a  large  bolt,  which 
presses  up  at  one  end  and  down  at  the  other 
by  turning  a  handle  in  the  middle.  But  the 
workmanship  is  much  better.  We  had  some  of 
the  Peterman  beer,  for  which  this  place  is 
famous,  at  dinner.  Finer  I  never  tasted  ;  it  is 
soft,  mild,  and  strong  as  Burton  Ale,  but  neither 
sweet  nor  cloying. 

The  Town  House  at  Louvain  was  well  charac- 
terised by  Mrs.  Vardon,  who  exclaimed  at  first 
seeing  it  that  it  was  like  a  trinket,  actually  an 
architectural  hijoux.  The  ornaments  are  so  ex- 
quisitely rich  that  it  looks  like  a  thing  of  ivory 
or  fillagree,  designed  for  a  Lady's  dressing  table. 
There  is  a  very  remarkable  picture  in  one  of 
the  rooms  which  our  guide  (a  most  incom- 
petent one,  for  he  could  neither  understand 
us  nor  make  us  understand  him)  ascribed  to 
Quintin  Matsys.  A  Guardian  Angel  is  pointing 
out   the  Crucified  Saviour  in   Heaven  to  two 

[        197        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


children,  a  boy  and  a  girl,  who  seem  clinging 
to  his  knees.  Another  boy,  who  holds  a  cross, 
is  looking  wistfully  to  the  Angel,  but  the  Devil 
has  his  leg  in  a  chain.  He  could  tell  us  nothing 
of  the  history  of  the  piece,  but  it  plainly  relates 
to  some  family  unhappily  divided  in  those 
religious  troubles  of  which  this  Painter  saw  the 
commencement  and  progress. 

I  set  out  in  search  of  the  Beguinage,  and 
after  a  long  walk  was  conducted  to  the  smaller 
one,  for  there  are  two  in  this  city.  This  proved 
to  be  a  single  narrow  street,  closed  at  the  one 
end.  There  are  no  gardens,  and  the  houses  are 
like  those  at  Ghent,  but  not  so  large.  A  Beguine 
whom  I  met  and  accosted  told  me  there  were 
only  three  sisters  here,  the  apartments  being 
occupied  by  Nuns  formerly  belonging  to  the 
suppressed  orders.  The  larger  Beguinage,  she 
said,  had  seventy  sistei*s  ;  but  that  was  half  an 
hour's  walk,  and  time  did  not  allow  me  to  get 

there. 

Tho'  this  large  city  is  the  seat  of  a  Uni- 
versity, I  could  not  discover  that  it  contained  a 
decent  bookseller's  shop.  At  the  best  I  could 
find,  I  picked  out  from  a  very  few  books  three 

[        1^«        ] 


ti 


I 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

which  I  was  glad  to  obtain.  The  one  a  Gazet- 
teer of  Louvain  and  what  are  called  its  Mayeries^ 
published,  I  see,  in  successive  years  as  an  appen- 
dage to  some  Almanack,  but  collected  into  a 
volume,  of  a  very  unpretending  and  useful  kind. 
Another  is  the  Acta  of  King  St.  Ferdinand, 
in  a  good  octavo,  with  the  prints  reduced,  pub- 
lished in  this  form  by  the  BoUandists  before  the 
volume  of  their  great  work,  which  includes  his 
day,  was  ready.  This  belongs  to  my  Spanish 
collection.  The  third  relates  to  Irish  or  Scotch 
Ecclesiastical  history  :  Saricti  Rumoldi  Martyris 
Inclyti^  Archiepiscopi  Dubliniensis^  MechUnien- 
slum,  Apostoliy  Advocati  sterilium  conjugumy 
ag^ricolary/m,  piscatorum  institorum,  et  hairgen- 
tium,  Acta  Martyrium,  Liturgia  Antiqua,  etc., 
by  Hugo  Vardoeus,  an  Irish  Franciscan,  1662. 
It  had  been  a  presentation  copy  from  the  Author. 
The  book  appears  to  contain  a  good  deal  of 
research  into  the  dark  as  well  as  the  fabulous 
ages  of  Scotland  and  Ireland. 


[ 


199 


] 


ii 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

Friday,  Oct,  20. 

Five  leagues  to  Brussels.  On  the  way  Edith 
May's  quick  eyes  discovered  the  small  or  Lilli- 
put  cabbages  growing  like  warts  upon  the 
stalks  of  what  seemed  common  cabbages ;  and 
no  doubt  they  are  an  artificial  product.  The 
road  commands  a  most  extensive  prospect, 
such  as  the  slightest  elevation  gives  over  a 
plain  country,  llie  cathedral  at  Mechlin  was 
distinctly  seen,  and  Antwerp,  we  were  agreed, 
is  visible  to  good  eyes  in  clear  weather.  We 
left  Laeken  on  the  right,  and  reached  our  old 
quarters  at  Brussels  to  dinner. 

During  this  tour  wherever  we  went  the  blue 
frock  continued  to  be  the  costume  of  the  com- 
mon men,  and  that  of  the  women  has  nowhere 
varied  from  what  we  saw  at  Ostend.  The  men 
of  the  better  orders  wear  caps  more  frequently 
than  hats  ;  these  caps  are  mostly  of  grey  or 
black  cloth,  with  a  front  of  the  same  or  of 
horn,  like  a  jockey's  cap ;  or  they  are  of  velvet, 
and  have  generally  then  a  circle  of  grey  worsted 
(perhaps  it  may  be  Astrachan  lamb-skin,  real 
or  imitated)  at  the  bottom. 

[        200        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


The  swine  are  as  miserably  lean  as  in  Ireland 
— or  leaner,  if  that  can  be.  I  called  them  not 
pigs,  but  grey-pigs — for  as  some  humourists  in 
England  have  trained  pigs  to  point,  here  they 
might  use  them  for  coursing. 


Saturday y  Oct.  91, 

Our  chance  acquaintance  with  Mr.  Nash 
having  by  this  time  been  ripened  by  mutual 
good  will  into  incipient  intimacy,  he  offered  to 
make  some  Waterloo  sketches  for  my  intended 
poem,  and  for  that  purpose  we  returned  this 
day  to  the  field  of  battle,  leaving  the  Vardons 
to  pass  the  day  with  their  Brussels  friends. 
We  set  out  a  little  after  seven,  the  two  Ediths 
with  Nash  and  myself  in  the  open  carriage, 
Koster  and  Miss  Foreman  on  horseback. 

The  forest  of  Soigny  is  very  striking.  It 
has  none  of  the  beauty  of  a  natural  forest ;  but 
because  it  is  an  artificial  one,  it  has  a  character 
of  its  own,  not  always  becoming  impressive 
where  it  is  upon  a  large  scale.  The  trees  are 
so  straight  that  they  look  as  if  they  had  grown 

[        201        ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


under  the  superintendence  of  a  Drill  Sergeant. 
An  oak  which  stands  on  the  verge  of  the  forest, 
where  it  has  room  to  spread  its  arms  in  natural 
gi'owth,  really  appeared  like  a  deformed  and 
monstrous  being,  from  its  utter  unlikeness  to  all 
the  other  trees.  They  stand  in  many  parts  so 
close  that  the  interstices  look  only  like  straight 
lines  of  green  light.  The  road  is  in  many  parts 
raised  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  forest. 
Labouring  men  and  boys  were  seated  by  the 
wayside  at  breakfast,  and  spreading  their  dark  * 
brown  bread  with  a  white  substance,  which 
whether  it  be  lard,  or  a  sort  of  inferior  butter, 
or  curd,  we  have  not  yet  learnt,  tho**  we  have 
frequently  seen  it  thus  used.  Saw  one  horse 
with  a  comb  attached  to  the  trappings  of  his 
neck;  another  with  red  tassels  pendant  over 
his  face,  which  must  be  useful  against  the 
flies. 

Breakfaisted    at    Waterloo.      Among    other 
vessels   in  the   kitchen   there   were  to   my  no 

*  This  bread  is  dark  enough  to  explain  the  Dutch 
word  for  a  favourite  child,  or  one  cockered,  as  we 
should  say,  and  brought  up  on  dainties.  It  is 
uittehroodskind — or  kindje — a  white  bread  child. 

[        202        ] 


■^3 


"^^ 


small  astonishment,  six  bright  and  shining 
pewter  chamber-pots  hanging  up — evidently  for 
ornamental  display  when  not  on  service.  Edith 
May  tells  me  there  were  similar  ornaments  in 
the  kitchen  at  Tongres.  The  inner  room,  in 
which  a  noble  wood  fire  was  kindled  for  us,  con- 
tained four  beds,  which  no  doubt  has  been 
sadly  occupied  after  the  battle.  On  the  chimney 
piece  was  a  tuft  of  artificial  flowers,  something 
of  the  same  kind  more  artificial  still,  being  an 
imitation  of  flowers  made  with  feathers,  and 
with  gilt  foil  for  the  stamens,  and  two  hyacinth 
glasses  of  blue  and  gold.  There  is  generally  a 
sort  of  vallance  or  little  canopy  about  a  quarter 
of  a  yard  deep  over  the  chimney  piece  in  these 
countries.  The  ceiling  of  the  room  was  of 
black  boards,  the  floor  of  bricks  and  sanded ; 
and  under  the  window  was  a  hole  to  let  the 
water  out  when  the  room  is  washed.  Knowing 
at  what  sort  of  house  we  should  make  our  first 
halt,  we  took  our  own  tea  rather  than  trust  to 
the  chance  of  finding  coffee  there,  toasted  bread 
by  help  of  a  gridiron  which  the  people  of  the 
house  brought  us  for  that  purpose,  and  break- 
fasted well  as  well  as  merrily. 

[       203       ] 


'ia«i'g*.^miiiriiii]iMiiirtiifiii{iiiSMarirt^^ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

After  breakfast  Nash  made  a  sketch  of  the 
Church,  and  I  copied  the  inscription  over  its 
portico — interesting  enough  for  its  subject  and 
its  semi -pagan  form. 

D  .  O  .  M  . 

£t  D .  D  .  Josepho  et  Annoe, 

Hoc  Sacellum, 

Pro  Desiderata  Dominiis  CathoHcis 

Caroli  2. Hisp.  Ind .  Regis,  Belg.  Principic  Prosapia, 

Fran  .  Ant .  Agurto  .  Marchio  de  Castanaca 

Belg .  Gubemtor . 

Cause  enough  indeed  had  these  poor  countries 
to  pray  that  that  most  pitiable  poor  king  might 
leave  issue  to  succeed  him  !  There  is  a  good 
portrait  of  this  poor  king  in  the  Acta  S.  Ferdi- 
fiandi  Regis,  which  I  bought  yesj^erday  ;  it  is  so 
truly  characteristic  that  it  alone  would  make 
the  book  valuable.  I  never  saw  a  more  com- 
pleat  union  of  gentleness,  melancholy,  and 
imbecillity. 

There  are  two  monuments  in  the  Church  to 
the  English  Officers  :  one  to  those  of  the  first 
foot  guards,  the  other  to  those  of  the  15th 
hussars,  both  at  the  cost  of  their  brother 
officers ;  they  are  of  plain  white  marble  with  a 

L        *-204         ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


narrow  black  edge.     I  copied  both  inscriptions. 
The  Church  yard   is  a   square  unadorned  in- 
closure,  between  two  and  three  hundred  yards 
behind  the  Church,  or  rather  Chapel.     Several 
giaves  were  shown  us  on  the  way  between,  on 
the  edge  of  the  forest,  where  men  had  been 
buried    who   died   of    their   wounds.      In   the 
Church    yard   are    two   flat   tombstones   close 
together,  and   both  on    the   ground.     One   to 
Col.    de     Langrehr     of    the    Bremen    corps; 
the    other    to    Lt.    Col.    Richard    Fitzgerald 
of  the  2nd   Life  Guards.     The   children  who 
acted  as  om*  guides  [here   said   his   body  had 
been    buried   on   the   field,   but    was   removed 
hither  by  his  widow ;  and  that  it  was  the  trunk 
only,  the  head   having  been  carried  off  by  a 
cannon    ball.      I   copied    these   epitaphs   also. 
There   was   but   one  other   tombstone   in   the 
cemetery :  it  was  that  of  an  inhabitant  of  the 
village;     and    this,    tho'    it    has    been    made 
some  years,  is  not  yet  fixed — only  laid   upon 
some  temporary  supporters. 

I  enquired  at  the  Inn  if  there  were  any  re- 
membrance in  the  village  of  an  affair  here  in 
1705,  when  the  Duke  of  Marlborough  gained 

[        205        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

some  advantage  upon  this  very  ground,  but 
could  not  learn  that  there  was  any  recollection 
of  it.  They  are  so  used  to  such  things  in 
these  countries  that  nothing  short  of  a  general 
action  leaves  any  impression  upon  them  ;  but  I 
should  add  that  the  man  of  the  house  both 
speaks  and  understands  French  worse  than  any 
person  whom  we  have  met  with  who  pretended 
to  do  either  the  one  or  the  other. 

Lord  Uxbridge's  leg,  the  most  remarkable 
relic  of  modem  times,  is  deposited  in  the 
garden  of  a  house  opposite  the  Inn,  and  on  the 
same  side  of  the  road  as  the  Chapel,  the 
nearest  house  to  it  on  the  Brussels  side.  The 
owner  of  the  house  is  as  proud  of  possessing  it 
as  a  true  Catholic  would  be  of  an  undoubted 
leg  of  his  patron  Saint.  The  figure,  manner, 
and  earnest  enthusiasm  of  this  Leg-worshipper 
were  in  the  highest  degree  comic.  I  accosted 
him  hat  in  hand,  and  with  the  best  French 
I  could  muster  (which  is  bad  enough.  Heaven 
knows),  but  as  much  courtesy  as  if  I  had  been 
French  by  birth  and  breeding,  requested  per- 
mission to  visit  the  spot.  He  led  us  to  a  little 
mound  in  his  garden,  which  is  in  front  of  the 

[       206        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


house.  The  mound  is  about  three  or  four  feet  in 
diameter,  and  of  proportionate  elevation  (sound- 
ing words  should  be  used  on  gieat  occasions), 
and  in  the  centre  of  it  is  a  tuft  of  Michaelmas 
daisies ;  at  this  time  in  blossom.     The  leg,  he 
told  us,  had  been  at  first  interred  behind  the 
house ;  but  the  Wife  of  my  Lord  has  requested 
him  to  plant  a  tree   which  should  mark  the 
spot;  and  he,  considering  that  a  tree  behind 
the  house,  which  was  not  private  ground,  might 
be  very  probably  injured  or  destroyed  by  boys, 
had  removed  the  leg  into  his  own  garden,  and 
there  deposited  it  in  a  proper  box  or  coffin. 
The  Michaelmas  daisy  was  a  mere  temporary 
ornament.     In  November  he  should  plant  the 
tree,  it  was  to  be  "  un  *aw/^— English  willow:'' 
—-Oui,  Monsieur,  I  replied— /Vn^^/i^^  ;~rarhre 
larrrwyant ;  the  weephig  willow.     It  will  be  very 
picturesque  and  pathetic— the  whole  thing  is 
so  ridiculously  comic  that   I  hope  no  foolish 
person  will  hint  to  him  that  the  laurel  might 
be   more  appropriate.     He   had  composed  an 
epitaph  for  the  leg,  he  said,  which  was  then  in 
the  stone  cutter's  hands ;  but  he  had  a  copy  of 
it.     Of  course  I  requested  to  be  favoured  with 

[       207       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

the  perusal,  and  having  perused  it  with  due 
gravity  solicited  permission  to  transcribe  it  also. 
Upon  this  he  presented  me  with  the  copy,  and 
I  then  perceived  that  he  had  several  other 
copies  ready  to  be  disposed  of  in  like  manner. 
Here  follows  the  Epitaph,  being  I  believe  unique 
in  its  kind  : 

C  est  enterrie  la  Jambe  \de  L^illustre,  brave  et 
vaillant  Comte  Uxhridge^  Lieutenant  General, 
Commandant  en  Chef  la  Cavalerie  Anglaise, 
Beige  et  Hollandoise ;  bless^  le  18  Juin,  1815, 
en  la  memorable  battaille  de  Waterloo :  qui  par 
son  heroisme  a  concouru  au  triomphe  de  la  cause 
de  Genre  humain,  glorieicsement  decid^e  par 
Veclatante  victoire  du  ditjoiir. 

I  did  not  present  him  with  my  own  Epitaph 
upon  the  same  subject  in  return. 

This  is  the  Grave  of  Lord  Uxbridge's  leg  : 
Pray  for  the  rest  of  his  body,  I  beg. 


He  was  too  proud  of  having  such  a  deposit  in 
his  garden,  too  happy,  and  too  serious  in  his 
happiness,  for  such  a  jest  to  have  been  allow- 
able. He  took  us  into  the  house  and  shewed 
us  the  stain  of  blood  upon  two  chairs,  telling 

[        208        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


us  Lady  Uxbridge  had  desired  it  might  never 
be  washed  out.     And  he  called  for  the  boot, 
i^marking  as  he  displayed  it,   Voild  quel  petit 
pi£  pom  si  grand  Jumme!    According  to  his 
account  some  dozen  surgeons  assisted  at   the 
operation,  which  I  do  not  believe,  because  if 
the  surgeons  at  hand  had  been  fifty  fold  more 
numerous   than   they   were,  there  would  even 
then  have   been  fifty  times  as  much  work  as 
they  could  all  have  performed.     It  was  ampu- 
tated at  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  and  they  were 
ten  minutes  about  it,  his  Lordship  never  utter- 
ing  an  expression  of  pain. 

The  Forest  extends  farther  on  the  East  (that 
is  the  left)  side  of  the  road  than  on  the  West. 
To  the  end  of  the  forest  from  Waterloo  is  a  dis- 
tance which  we  were  thirteen  minutes  in  driving 
at  a  regular  jog-trot  pace ;  from  that  termina- 
tion to  Mont  S.  Jean  fifteen  more,  and  another 
fifteen  from  thence  to  the  Belle  Alliance,  La 
Haye  Sainte  being  about  half  way  between  the 
two  latter  places,  as  nearly  as  may  be.  There 
was  therefore  no  fighting  within  two  miles  and 
a  half  of  Waterloo. 

At    Mont  S.  Jean  the  wells  are  in  some  of 

[        209        ]  o 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

the  houses,  a  door  opening  directly  upon  it. 
This  must  be  for  the  double  purpose  of  security 
and  cleanliness.  .  Our  guide  seemed  delighted 
at  recognizing  us  as  we  drove  past,  tho"*  his 
services  were  not  needed  on  this  second  visit. 
We  left  the  carriage  and  the  two  horses  at  La 
Belle  Alliance  and  crost  the  fields  to  Hougou- 
mont,  taking  a  boy  with  us  to  carry  our  pro- 
visions. The  Gardiner  gladly  bade  us  welcome 
here.  Mr.  Nash  established  himself  by  the 
house,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  chusing  a 
point  of  view  in  which  the  Chapel  is  the  promi- 
nent object,  with  the  adjoining  ruins  to  the 
right;  and  while  he  was  thus  employed  we 
reconnoitred  the  ground  a  second  time  at 
leisure. 

I  now  discovered  in  the  garden  a  sun-dial  cut 
in  box,  but  having  been  neglected  and  allowed  to 
gi'ow  in  its  own  way  since  the  action.  I  should 
not  have  perceived  what  it  had  been  if  the 
wooden  gnomon  had  not  caught  my  eye  and 
induced  me  to  examine  the  circular  bed  in 
which  it  stood.  It  is  surprizing  to  see  how 
many  small  trees  have  been  destroyed  in  the 
wood,  and  in  a  row  beside  the  path,  at  the  end 

[        210        ] 


'N    THE    NETHERLANDS 


of  the  premises.     There  can  be  no  better  proof 
how   thickly  the   shot   must  have  fled.      The 
owner  of  the  estate,  a  man  of  eighty-six,  who 
resides  at  Nivelles,  has  just  sold  the  wood  for 
feUing,  and  wishes  to  dispose  of  the  whole  pro- 
perty.    I  wish  it  might  be  allowed  to  remain 
untouched,  that    the    ruins   themselves   might 
remain  as  the  best  monument  of  the  brave  men 
who  are  buried  underneath  them. 

Mr.  Nash  made  a  second  sketch  from  the 
door  of  the  Chapel,  comprizing  the  interior  of 
the  ruins,  and  another  of  the  Mansion  looking  at 
its  entrance.  When  making  this,  his  seat  was 
placed  on  the  mound  where  the  burnt  remains 
of  the  Frenchmen  are  covered,  and  the  children 
who  beg  here  with  the  most  invincible  perti- 
nacity actually  offered  him  for  sale  some  calcined 
bones  which  they  had  raked  out  of  a  hole. 

Leaving  the  ladies  here,  I  walked  with  Koster 
to  Papelote,  which  is  a  large  inclosed  farm  and 
dweUing  house  like  Hougoumont,  and  is  perhaps 
the  more  picturesque  place  of  the  two,  tho' 
it  does  not  appear  to  have  been  so  recently 
inhabited  as  the  mansion  of  a  wealthy  owner. 
Had  these  short  days  permitted,  I  could  very 

[        211        ] 


•0m 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


much  have  wished  that  Mr.  Nash  should  have 
made  some  sketches  here  also.  They  are  rapidly 
rebuilding  such  parts  as  were  destroyed.  We 
spoke  with  the  owner,  a  plain  farmer  he  appeared 
to  be.  There  had  not  been  many  men  killed 
here,  but  a  great  many  wounded  Prussians  had 
been  carried  into  the  stables,  which  escaped  the 
fire ;  and  tho'  he  made  repeated  applications 
at  all  the  neighbouring  places  both  for  means  of 
transport  and  for  assistance,  they  had  neither  to 
give,  and  in  this  state  of  utter  abandonment 
did  Mr.  Werth  find  these  poor  creatures  ^\e 
days  after  the  battle. 

At  some  little  distance  a  fine  plain  stone 
pillar  is  lying  on  the  ground,  apparently  from 
the  ruins  of  some  considerable  edifice. 

Hougoumont  and  Papelote  were  the  extreme 
points  of  the  British  position.  We  were  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  walking  from  one  to  the 
other  at  a  brisk  pace ;  the  distance  therefore  ig 
three  miles.  The  fighting  extended  no  farther 
on  the  left  than  to  the  end  of  the  Orchard,  some 
two  hundred  yards.  The  French  had  possession 
of  it  for  some  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then 
abandoned    it    upon    the    appearance   of    the 

[        212        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


I 


i.-s 


Prussians.  Papelote  is  not  upon  the  Wavre  road, 
but  on  a  road  that  turns  from  it  to  the  right. 
The  road  from  La  Haye  Sainte  to  this  turning 
is  lined  with  graves,  and  here  we  saw  more  bones 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  field.  More  than 
once  the  air  told  us  in  how  hasty  and  insufficient 
a  manner  the  bodies  had  been  covered.  This 
labour,  and  an  enormous  labour  it  must  have 
been,  was  left  for  the  peasants  to  perform— for 
their  own  sakes  and  at  their  own  cost.  It  is  no 
part  of  military  business  to  bury  the  dead. 

As  we  walked  leisurely  over  the  field  on  our 
return,  the  inequalities  of  the  ground  were  con- 
siderable enough  to  make  us  take  a  little  circuit 
for  the  sake  of  avoiding  them.  Certainly,  there- 
fore, in  bad  weather  they  would  greatly  impede 
the  cavah-y.  It  was  an  affecting  circumstance  to 
observe  the  oats  which  had  been  trodden  down 
during  the  battle  springing  up  here  and  there. 
The  young  com  was  shewing  itself  in  other 
places. 

We  conversed  with  Lacoste,  who  has  obtained 
so  much  notoriety  for  having  been  involuntary 
guide  to  Buonaparte.  He  was  with  him  during 
the  whole  day,  and  assured  us  that  Buonaparte 

[       213       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


never  charged  at  the  head  of  the  cuirassiers,  nor 
ever,  in  any  part  of  the  action,  exposed  himself. 
The  Observatory,  he  says,  was  erected  by  the 
Belgian  Government,  and  there  are  three  or 
four  such  along  the  frontier  between  this  place 
and  Ghent. 

Five  or  six  parties  of  English  arrived  while 
we  were  here.  We  afterwards  learnt  that 
Dr.  Ireland,  the  Dean  of  Westminster,  was  with 
one  of  them.  Among  the  pertinacious  children 
who  infest  this  place,  the  most  pertinacious  was 
a  girl,  drest  in  a  good  and  apparently  new 
upper  dress,  which  was  carefully  pinned  up  to 
display  a  ragged  under  petticoat  and  present  an 
appearance  of  poverty.  It  will  be  well  if  the 
habits  of  greedy  mendicity,  in  which  all  these 
children  have  been  encouraged  by  their  parents 
and  by  the  shoals  of  visitors,  do  not  render 
them  shameless  and  worthless  thro'  life.  There 
is  a  noble  dog  at  Hougoumont  who  remained 
there  with  the  Gardener,  his  master,  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  action,  barking  at  times 
bravely,  as  if  he  would  willingly  have  taken 
part  in  it.  But  when  the  French  got  possession 
of  the  wood,  General  Maitland  desired  the  man 

[       214       ] 


to  get  off  while  he  could,  lest  the  enemy,  if  he 
fell  into  their  hands,  should  put  him  to  death 
as  one  who  had  given  information  to  the 
English. 

It  was  dark  before  we  returned  to  Brussels  .  .  . 
some  apprehension  was  expressed  as  if  there 
might  be  robbers  in  the  forest  (for  whom  it  cer- 
tainly affords  fine  cover),  and  at  the  gate  we 
were  questioned  concerning  our  passports. 

The  women  in  this  country  take  a  much 
greater  part  in  business  than  they  do  in  Eng- 
land. Very  commonly  they  keep  their  husbands' 
accounts  ;  they  are  quite  as  active  in  the  shops ; 
and  I  am  told  that  it  is  not  uncommon  for 
them  to  have  the  management  of  the  concern. 
There  must  be  advantages  in  this,  as  well  as 
objections  to  it ;  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  the 
advantages  predominate. 

The  houses  very  much  resemble  those  in 
Spain  and  Portugal  as  to  the  entrance,  doors, 
etc. ;  in  fact,  the  Spanish  fashion  in  building 
them  still  prevails.  They  are  often  coloured 
of  a  light  green.  Throughout  Flanders  the 
favoiuHite  colour  for  doors  and  window  shutters 
(which  all  open  outwards)  is  grass-green,  and 

[        215        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

nothing  can  give  a  more  chearful  appearance. 
The  doors  of  good  houses  have  generally  a 
brazen  knob  or  handle  (which  is  a  Bristol 
fashion)  fixed  in  a  brazen  star.  The  stables  are 
all  without  stalls,  which  makes  them  cooler  and 
cleaner.  Hooks  are  fixed  on  the  roofs  of  the 
houses  to  secure  ladders  when  laid  there  for  the 
purpose  of  repairs.  The  form  of  the  common 
saw  here  is  like  that  of  a  turning  saw. 


Sunday^  Oct.  22. 

Wishing  to  see  Antwerp,  which  the  Vardons 
had  seen,  we  left  them  at  Brussels,  where  they 
were  to  remain  this  day  and  meet  us  to-morrow 
evening  at  Ghent.  Mr.  Nash  accompanied  us. 
On  the  way  we  crost  the  Allee  Verte,  and  had 
a  good  view  of  the  gardens  at  Laeken  and  the 
back  of  the  palace,  which  is  certainly  most  finely 
situated.  A  little  beyond  is  a  fine  villa,  with 
long  covered  walks  and  jetting  fountains.  The 
covered  walk  is  better  in  a  warmer  climate, 
and  there  it  is  perfectly  delightful — a  natural 
cloister,  perfumed  by  orange,  lemon,  or  jessamine 

[        216        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


blossoms,  or  enriched  with  clusters  of  grapes. 
I  like  fountains,  and  think  we  have  done  ill  in 
discarding  them  from  the  English  garden.  The 
sound  is  always  soothing,  and  in  a  sultry  day 
they  produce  the  sense  as  well  as  the  association 
of  coolness  and  freshness.  We  saw  some  splen- 
did trekschuits,  tho'  perhaps  none  so  hand- 
some as  that  which  plies  between  Bruges  and 
Ghent.  They  look  more  like  Chinese  junks 
than  Eui'opean  vessels.  The  barges  have  on 
each  side  a  large  moveable  fin,  which  prevents 
them  from  falling  to  windward.  It  is  no  doubt 
borrowed  from  the  fin  of  a  fish,  and  is  shaped 
and  used  like  them. 

We  past  thro'  Vilvorde,  where  there  is  an  im- 
mense House  of  Correction,  large  enough  to  ac- 
comodate six  thousand  criminals,  with  separate 
apartments.  It  is  probably  the  largest  edifice 
of  its  kind  in  the  world,  and  poisoners  are  sent 
there  from  all  parts  of  the  Low  Countries. 
Vilvorde  is  remarkable  to  a  Protestant,  and 
more  especially  to  an  Englishman,  on  another 
account,  as  being  the  place  where  Tindal  suf- 
fered martyrdom.  He  was  betrayed  by  an 
English  Catholic,  who  was  a  student  at  Louvain, 

[       217       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


and  the  Clergy  of  that  University  delivered^him 
over  to  the  secular  arm — to  be  strangled  and 
burnt.  The  town  is  still  Catholic,  and  those  of 
its  inhabitants  who  are  not  unbelievers  would,  I 
have  no  doubt,  at  this  day  justify  his  execution, 
such  is  the  unmitigated  and  immitigable  spirit 
of  this  abominable  superstition.  More  allow- 
ance, however,  is  to  be  made  for  its  intolerance 
in  the  Netherlands  than  in  any  other  part  of 
Europe. 

The  acacia  is  a  very  common  tree  here. 

Four  leagues  from  Brussels  to  Mechlin,  or 
Malines,  as  it  is  here  called.  The  public  room 
at  the  Cour  Imperial  was  hung  with  embossed 
leather,  of  which  the  greater  part  of  the  ground 
was  covered  with  gilding.  I  never  saw  so  mag- 
nificent a  remnant  of  old  times.  The  Cathedral 
Tower  is  remarkable  (that  is,  it  appeared  so  to 
me)  for  the  depth  of  its  projecting  parts.  They 
have  the  fashion  of  placing  only  the  skeleton 
of  a  dial  upon  their  church  clocks.  In  par- 
ticular lights  the  figures  are  sufficiently  distinct; 
and  I  suppose  the  reason  for  the  fashion  is  the 
same  as  for  our  invisible  fences,  that  the  clock 
may  not   be   seen,  or    rather  seen  as  little  as 

£        218        ] 


possible,  unless  you  have  occasion  to  look  at  it, 
being,  tho'  a  necessary  appendage  to  a  church 
tower,  no  ornament  to  it  in  the  opinion  of  these 
architects.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  effect  of  these 
skeleton  dials  is  by  no  means  good.  Give  me  an 
honest  clock  that  shows  its  face  and  a  quarter- 
boy  standing  at  each  side. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  very  fine  one.  Within 
there  is,  according  to  the  usual  custom  in  the 
Low  Countries,  a  whole  length  statue  upon  every 
pillar ;  and  there  is  also  a  second  regiment  above 
them ;  but  this  upper  range  consists  of  Termes^ 
if  that  word  be  fitly  applied  to  half-length 
figures,  ending  in  a  pedestal  which  makes  up  the 
full  length  of  life.  There  is  much  fine  marble 
in  the  Church,  and,  withal,  some  imitations  of 
marble,  always  provoking  for  their  paltriness  ; 
for  example,  there  is  some  carving  in  the  choir 
painted  to  look  like  bas  relief  in  white  marble, 
and  some  monuments,  which  you  think  very  fine 
at  first  sight,  betray  the  same  meanness  upon 
nearer  inspection. 

Mechlin  is  at  present  the  great  seminary  for 
the  Clergy.  Many  of  the  students  were  walking 
about  the  streets  at  liberty,  which  we  were  told 

[       219        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

was  only  allowed  there  on  Sundays.  Some  of 
the  houses  are  ornamented  with  gilding  on  the 
outside.  The  great  Place  has  a  singular  build- 
ing, which  I  suppose  to  be  the  Town-house, 
with  two  pointed  Flemish  towers  on  each  side 
the  gate.  The  Beguinage  here  is  of  some 
extent,  and  resembles  that  at  Ghent,  except 
that  there  are  neither  courts  nor  gardens  before 
the  houses.  Mechlin  is  an  interesting  place, 
which  well  deserves  to  be  seen  at  leisure. 

The  country  from  Brussels  to  this  city  is 
chiefly  pasture.  I  saw  a  pye-bald  sheep  on  the 
way,  spotted  like  a  water  spaniel.  We  have 
seen  so  few  sports  among  the  boys  that  the  sight 
of  a  party  at  ninepins  was  noticed  by  us  as  some- 
thing extraordinary.  There  are  so  many  public 
gardens  in  the  vicinity  of  every  large  town  that 
it  is  evidently  very  much  the  custom  to  frequent 
them. 

From  Mechlin  to  Antwerp  four  leagues.  We 
past  thro'  a  large  village  half  way,  with  a 
large  church  where  service  was  going  on  at 
three  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  church  was 
crowded.  The  congregation  consisted  wholly, 
as  it  appeared  to  us,  of  the  lower  ranks,  and 

[       220       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

very  many  sailors  among  them,  on  their  knees, 
in  much  apparent  devotion.  Both  here  and  at 
Vilvorde  the  coachman,  when  he  stopt  to  water  his 
horses,  drove  under  a  large  open  shed,  erected  to 
afford  shelter  (should  it  be  needed)  at  such  times. 

Near  Antwerp  there  are  some  extensive  public 
gardens,  which  have  been  so  recently  made  that 
they  have  not  yet  any  one  beauty  to  recommend 
them.  You  merely  perceive  that  they  will  be 
places  for  recreation  when  the  plants  shall  have 
had  time  to  grow.  If  we  were  correctly  in- 
formed, they  are  laid  out  upon  the  ground 
where  a  considerable  part  of  the  suburbs  stood, 
which  was  pulled  down  by  the  French.  Yet  to 
this  bare  and  joyless  spot  (as  we  should  have 
deemed  it)  all  Antwerp  and  his  wife,  and  all 
the  little  Antwerps,  were  crowding. 

Our  passports  were  required  as  we  entered, 
and  we  were  told  to  call  for  them  at  the  Police 
Office  between  the  hours  of  six  and  seven. 
Having  reached  the  Bear  Hotel  we  asked  for  a 
private  room,  and  were  shewn  into  one  with  a 
stove  and  a  sanded  floor.  Dinner  was  ordered 
at  six,  and  we  set  out  to  make  the  best  use  of 
two  hours  daylight. 

[       221       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

The  first  place  to  which  the  Commissionaire 
led  us  was  the  Cathedral.  Its  celebrated  tower 
is  like  the  Town  house  at  Lou  vain,  a  piece  of 
architectural  trinketry  ;  but  here,  to  my  feelings 
at  least,  the  trinketry  is  out  of  place.  It  excited 
surprize,  wonder,  and  perhaps  admiration ;  but 
I  felt  that  grandeur  and  effect  had  been  sacri- 
ficed. You  must  be  near  enough  to  see  the 
lace  work  distinctly,  otherwise  the  form  only 
is  perceived,  which  has  neither  the  solemn  mas- 
si  veness  and  majesty  of  a  tower  nor  the  light 
sky-pointing  beauty  of  a  spire.  Surprizingly 
beautiful,  however,  in  its  kind  it  is.  Charles  5 
said  of  it,  when  he  saw  it  first,  that  it  ought  to 
be  shut  up  in  a  case  and  shewn  only  once  a 
year.  We  saw  it  under  the  most  favourable 
circumstances — in  an  evening  light,  against  a 
clear  sky,  which  made  all  the  open  parts 
distinct. 

Perhaps  the  interior  has  lost  nothing  in 
effect  from  having  been  mercilessly  stript  by 
the  Revolutionists  and  the  French.  It  has  now 
the  naked  grandeur  of  an  English  cathedral. 
All  the  Images  have  been  destroyed  except  one, 
which  a  mechanic  of  the  town  purchased  in  the 

[        222        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


i 


time  of  havoc,  preserved,  and  has  since  replaced. 
Of  six  and  thirty  chapels  which  it  contained, 
the  French  only  left  one.  They  sold  the 
brasses,  broke  the  marbles,  and  melted  down 
the  plate.  A  safer  method  of  inlaying  monu- 
mental stones  is  practised  here.  The  stone 
is  a  blueish  marble,  and  the  letters,  armorial 
bearings,  and  ornaments  or  emblems  are  let  in 
in  white. 

The  Pulpit  is  poor  in  comparison  with  those 
which  we  have  lately  seen.  Four  figures,  repre- 
senting the  four  parts  of  the  world,  support  it, 
and  emblematic  birds  and  other  animals  are 
grouped  about  it.  The  great  picture  of  Rubens 
is  expected  to-morrow ;  others  have  already 
arrived  from  Paris  (for  which  honour  and  praise 
to  the  name  of  old  Blucher),  and  when  they  are 
replaced  there  is  to  be  an  illumination  and  a 
day  of  public  rejoicing,  in  which,  if  it  were  my 
lot  to  be  present,  I  should  partake  as  heartily 
as  if  I  were  a  Roman  Catholic  and  a  native  of 
Antwerp. 

The  Commissionaire  was  now  leading  us 
towards  the  Docks,  but  we  had  so  little  day- 
light remaining  that  none  could  be  afforded  for 

[        223       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


an  object  of  no  great  interest  to  any  one  of  the 
party ;  so  he  turned  back  to  the  Museum,  in 
all  the  avenues  to  which  there  was  an  abomin- 
able and  sickening  stench  of  uncleanness  from 
the  cloacas.  Here  is  the  Chair  of  Rubens,  so 
inscribed,  and  decorated  with  a  laiu-el  wreath 
round  that  inscription,  which  is  always  replaced 
before  it  grows  sere.  Mr.  Nash,  as  in  duty 
bound,  kissed  the  chair.  A  Church  which  under 
the  French  has  been  appropriated  for  the  use 
of  the  Academy  of  Design,  has  lately  been 
emptied  of  its  pictures  that  it  may  be  fitted  up 
as  a  place  of  worship  for  the  English.  The 
Commissionaire  now  said  he  would  take  us  to  a 
Church  which  had  not  its  equal  in  the  world ; 
and  as  far  as  any  of  us  had  seen  the  World, 
he  was  right  in  his  boast.  For  in  a  Court 
belonging  to  the  Church,  and  adjoining  to  it, 
half  the  scripture  history  is  represented  by 
figures  large  as  life,  and  coloured  to  life ;  and 
at  the  end  is  a  huge  Calvary  built  up  against 
the  wall  of  the  Church  and  made  to  the  model 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  two  inventors,  we 
were  told,  having  made  three  joumies  to  Jeru- 
salem in  order  that  the  plan  might  be  perfectly 

[        224        ] 


correct.     Then   statues,   lettered   B.   Jordanus 
and  B.  Gundisalvus,  are  the  first  as  you  enter. 
Round  about  the  Sepulchre  you  see  thro'  iron 
grates   the   Souls   in  Purgatory  praying  amid 
the  flames— whether  the  beatified  artists  went 
thither  also  to  make  their  sketches  on  the  spot 
our  guide  did  not  inform  us.     The  body  in  the 
Sepulchre  is  covered  with  a  white  silk  pall ;  you 
look  at  it  thro'  a  hole,  and  see  it  by  the  light 
of  a  lamp  within.     This  was  the  most  ridiculous 
puppet  show  in  all  its  parts  that  I  ever  saw. 

The  Dominican  Church,  to  which  it  is  attached, 
has  a  good  picture  of  the  Descent  from  the  Cross 
painted  some  seven  years  ago  at  Rome  by  an 
artist   who    is    still    living,  and    whose   name 
sounded  to  our  ears  like  Seltz—perhaps  Schultz. 
There  is  a  singular  clock  over  the  entrance  to 
the  Choir;  a  dart   in  the  hand  of  an  Angel 
points  to  the  hours  which  are  marked  upon  a 
revolving    globe.     The   Confessionals    in    this 
Church  are  ranged  against  the  wall  all  round, 
and  have  statues  about  them  of  dark   brown 
wood,  large  as  life,  making  a  terrific  appear- 
ance, especially  as  we  saw  them  when  the  even- 
ing was  closing  fast. 

[        225        ]  p 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


IN 


We  went  also  to  the  Church  of  St.  Jaques, 
which  is  exceedingly  rich  in  marble,  but  our 
reason  for  going  there  was  to  see  the  grave  of 
Rubens.     There  was  a  large  Beguinage,  which 
the   French   destroyed,  because   the    site    was 
wanted  for  some  of  their  works.     The  Beguines, 
to  the  number  of  some  six  or  seven  hundred,  are 
now  lodged  in  a  convent,  a  change  made  for 
the  worse.   There,  as  throughout  these  countries, 
they  are  much  respected,  and  they  are  said  not 
to  be  poor.    The  great  street  is  certainly  a  very 
fine  one,  and  may  fairly  be  ranked  with  those  at 
Madrid  and  Oxford  wherewith  it  is  compared. 
That  at  Naples,  which  is  named  with  them,  I 
have  not  seen.    Yet  the  Calle  de  Aleala  is  much 
longer,  and  terminates  more  finely  in  a  gateway, 
and  the  High  Street  at  Oxford  contains  much 
finer  buildings.     Water   is   flowing  under  the 

street. 

As  we  had  asked  for  a  private  apartment, 
I  was  displeased  upon  our  return  at  finding  a 
great,  fleshy,  florid  fellow,  who  looked  like  an 
Englishman,  seated  at  dinner  in  the  room  which 
we  had  engaged.  However,  he  soon  took  his 
departure,  without  having  opened  his   mouth 

[       226       ] 


THE    NETHERLANDS 


I 


for  any   other   purpose  than  that  of  putting 
something  into   it,   and   when   the   book   was 
brought  for  us  to  enter  our  names  and  desig- 
nation, I  perceived  that  he  styled  himself  Doctor, 
and  was  Irish.     The  door  of  the  stove  when 
it  was  opened  displayed  a  grating  within,  so  a» 
to  allow  the  sight  of  a  fire,  which  makes  no 
inconsiderable    part   of    its    comforts.      After 
some  trouble  in  the  search,  Koster  found  out 
our  trekschuit  acquaintance,  Mr.  Sergeant,  and 
brought  him   to  pass   the   remainder   of    the 
evening  with  us.     From  him  we  heard  all  that 
he  had  heard  or  knew  respecting  Antwerp.    He 
told  us,  what  may  well  be  believed,  that  there 
is  a  large   party   of    Buonapartists   here,   for 
Antwerp  is  one  of  the  few  places  which  derived 
great  advantage  from  his  policy,  and  that  the 
late  Mayor,  for  belonging  to  this  faction,  had 
been  compelled  to  resign  his  office  a  few  days 
ago.     The   English,   he   said,   had    been    very 
popular  a^  long  as  there  were  other  troops  in 
the  town ;  but  now,  when  they  were  quartered 
on  the  inhabitants,  they  were  no  longer  liked, 
and  the  people  were  not  civil  to  them.     In  con- 
sequence of  this  marked  incivility,  many  oflficers 

[        227        ] 


i| 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


who  could  afford  it  had  taken  lodgings,  to  the 
great  alarm  of  the  former  hosts,  who  are  thus 
put  in  fear  of  having  their  quarters  occupied 
by  less  scrupulous  guests.  The  firing  of  the 
16th  was  heard  here,  not  that  of  the  18th, 
which,  the  wind  being  in  an  opposite  direction, 
was  heard  at  Herve. 

A  Hanoverian  Officer  assured  Sergeant  that 
the  German  Officers  in  general  made  it  a  rule  if 
one  of  them  spoke  to  another  in  French  to 
knock  him  down,  and  that  such  a  blow  was  not 
to  be  resented.  They  had  determined  also  that 
their  children  should  not  learn  to  speak  the 
language  of  their  mortal  enemies. 

Sergeant  told  us  a  truly  characteristic  story 
of  his  own  countrymen.     A  fellow  was  brought 
before  his  father  for  having  been  one  of  the 
most  active  persons  in    a    desperate    riot— to 
which  indeed  his  appearance  bore  full  proof. 
He  however  protested  that  he  was  as  innocent 
as  a  babe  unborn :  "  AU  I  had  to  do  with  it, 
your  honour,  was  this.    As  I  was  walking  along 
thinking  of  nothing  at  all,  I  saw  a  parcel  of 
men  fighting,  so  I  only  took  my  shillelah  to 
help  one  of  the  parties,  and  cried  out  as  I  ran 

[        228        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


into  the  thick  of  them — God  grant  I  may  take 
the  right  side." 


Monday^  Oct,  23. 

Our  bedroom  was  very  comfortable,  and,  for 
the  first  time,  carpetted.  Sergeant  having  been 
upon  duty  all  night,  called  upon  us  according 
to  appointment  at  half  after  six  and  took  us  to 
the  citadel.  We  got  there  before  the  draw- 
bridge was  lowered,  and  a  crowd  was  waiting 
for  admission,  among  whom  were  men  who  had 
slept  out  without  leave.  The  citadel  is  to  the 
S.W.  of  the  town.  There  had  formerly  been 
some  fine  trees  between  them,  which  Carnot  cut 
down,  and  our  men  had  hardly  yet  cleared  them 
out  of  the  ditches. 

The  carts  which  came  with  vegetables  to- 
market  were  packed  with  remarkable  nicety. 
Everything  was  in  baskets,  resembling  in  shape 
our  strawberry  baskets,  and  containing  I  sup- 
pose a  certain  measure.  The  cart  was  filled 
with  them,  and  others  even  hung  round  the 
outside,  so  that  there  was  nothing  more  to  do 
than  to  take  the  baskets  out  and  arrange  them 

[       229       ] 


li 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


in  the  mai'ket  place.  The  market  is  held  at 
the  top  of  the  great  street. 

Charges  at  the  Bear  were  high.  They  have 
indeed  everywhere  been  higher  than  they  ought 
to  be  in  a  land  which  is  overflowing  with  plenty. 
But  this  is  because  we  are  English. 

The  Coachman  had  crossed  the  Scheldt  at 
seven  o'clock,  high  water  being  necessary  either 
for  embarking  or  landing  the  carriage.  We 
were  on  the  other  side  before  nine,  leaving 
Antwerp  thro**  a  gate  which  has  a  large 
statue  of  Neptune,  or  some  river  God  over  the 
entrance.  The  Scheldt  we  thought  to  be  about 
as  wide  as  the  Thames  at  Greenwich,  and  the 
water  was  just  savoured  with  salt.  The  city 
and  its  towers  were  seen  to  great  advantage 
from  the  river  and  the  opposite  shore.  The 
ferry  was  cheap,  the  weather  fine,  and  the  pas- 
sage to  Tete  de  Flandre  pleasant ;  but  if  the 
traveller  goes  from  Ghent  to  Antwerp  it  is 
desirable  that  he  should  reach  Tete  de  Flandre 
early  enough  to  cross,  otherwise  he  must  put  up 
at  an  uncomfortable  auberge. 

The  first  three  miles  of  our  journey  lay  over 

open  and  marshy  pasture  lands,  which  of  all 

[       230       ] 


kinds  of  country  is  the  dreariest.  We  then 
entered  upon  inclosures  where  the  cultivation 
was  in  the  highest  degree  careful,  the  Pays  de 
Waas  indeed,  being  the  most  highly  cultivated 
part  of  Flanders,  and  consequently  of  Christen- 
dom. What  there  may  be  in  Asia  I  know  not, 
but  in  any  other  part  of  the  world  I  believe 
there  is  nothing  can  be  compared  with  this. 
And  it  is  not  a  little  gratifying  to  perceive  how 
much  beauty  has  been  produced  by  this  wise 
and  careful  industry,  which  had  utility  alone  in 
view.  The  richest  parts  of  England  present 
nothing  more  woody,  tho'  the  wood  here 
consists  only  of  double  rows  of  trees,  one  on 
each  side  the  ditches  which  divide  the  fields. 
The  fields  are  for  the  most  part  very  small — 
gardens  perhaps  they  ought  rather  to  be  called, 
both  from  their  size  and  produce.  Every  one 
is  slightly  raised  in  the  middle,  with  an  inclina- 
tion which  is  just  sufficient  to  be  perceptible 
toward  the  sides.  This  is  evidently  that  the 
water  may  run  off,  not  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
creasing the  surface,  as  has  foolishly  been  stated 
by  writers  who  either  had  not  seen  the  ground 
or  did  not  reflect  upon  what  they  were  saying. 

[        231        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

The  first  place  on  the  way  is  Beveren,  the 
chief  place  of  the  Pays  de  Beveren  (a  Barony  in 
old  times),  which  is  almost  surrounded  by  the 
Pays  de  Waas.  It  is  one  of  those  places  called 
in  French  a  JrancMse^  which  is  more  than  a 
village  and  less  than  a  town,  and  may  perhaps 
be  rendered  a  privileged  village.  In  size  how- 
ever, beauty  and  apparent  opulence  and  com- 
fort, it  is  superior  to  half  the  towns  we  have 
seen.  The  next  place  to  which  we  came, 
St.  Nicholas,  is  of  the  same  description ;  but  it 
is  a  finer  place,  and  has  indeed  the  name  of 
being  the  wealthiest  and  finest  village  in  the 
world.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  neatness  and 
visible  welfare  of  this  place,  and  be  it  observed 
that  this  is  not  a  prosperity  arising  from  manu- 
factures— if  it  were,  there  would  be  none  of  this 
neatness  and  quiet  comfort — but  wholly  from 
agriculture  and  the  trades  which  every  com- 
munity requires. 

In  the  Great  Place  at  St.  Nicholas,  or  what 
in  England  might  be  called  the  Green,  is  a  pole 
with  a  bird  on  the  top,  which  the  men  practise 
in  shooting  at. 

As  we  drove  by  I   perceived  a  bookseller's 

[        232        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


shop.  Thither  I  went  while  the  horses  were 
watered,  and  was  received  with  a  degree  of 
coldness  amounting  even  to  sour  incivility  by 
the  mistress.  The  cause  was  explained  when 
she  said  she  supposed  I  was  a  Frenchman,  and 
the  change  in  her  manner  was  instantaneous 
when  I  assured  her  she  was  mistaken.  She  then 
told  us  that  her  husband  had  been  obliged  to 
conceal  his  most  valuable  books  when  the  French 
were  in  authority  there,  and  they  had  suffered 
much  from  that  detested  people.  Here  I  bought 
the  Lives  of  the  Admirals,  an  old  popular 
compilation  in  Dutch,  and,  overlooking  the 
inconvenience  of  transporting  it,  the  great 
history  of  the  War  in  the  Netherlands  down 
to  the  year  1600,  by  Pieter  Bor,  in  four  huge 
folios.  We  were,  however,  sufficiently  amused 
with  that  inconvenience  as  we  carried  them  off, 
I  bearing  one  under  each  arm  in  triumph,  and 
Mr.  Nash  and  Koster  following  with  one  each ; 
and  we  laughed  heartily  as  we  stowed  them  in  the 
co6Ujh,  even  the  Coachman  joining  in  our  mirth. 
Beyond  this  place,  which  is  two  posts  and 
a  quarter  (about  12  miles)  from  Tete  de 
Flandre,   the   country   becomes   less  beautiful. 

[       233       ] 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS 


In  some  places  where  the  soil  is  poorest  they 
cultivate  broom,  to  be  used  for  an  under-layer 
in  thatching.  No  com  of  any  kind  is  grown 
along  the  whole  way  from  the  Scheldt ;  at  least 
we  saw  none  growing,  nor  vestige  of  any.  When 
we  had  left  the  pasture  land  the  inclosures  were 
all  filled  with  culinary  herbs,  with  here  and 
there  a  few  fields  of  flax  and  woad.  In  the 
sandier  and  worse  soil  there  is  sometimes  a  slip 
of  woodland  by  the  wayside ;  and  as  we  advanced 
farther  we  came  again  to  pasturage.  An  old 
man  was  making  twine  in  a  manner  sufficiently 
rude:  the  string,  which  was  of  very  great 
length,  was  past  over  nails  driven  into  some 
of  the  roadside  trees,  and  a  boy  (probably  his 
son)  turned  a  wheel  at  the  end  of  the  walk. 

We  dined  at  Lokeren,  which  is  about  eight 
miles  from  St.  Nicholas  and  twelve  from  Ghent 
Here  we  had  pewter  plates  and  sour  red  wine, 
but  the  other  fare  was  good.  There  is  an  odd 
sign  here  of  a  stag's  head,  in  which  real  horns 
are  fixed  upon  a  painted  head.  Some  few  miles 
farther  a  party  of  men  and  women  were  playing 
bowls,  all  in  great  glee,  and  some  of  them 
slapping  their  thighs  as  an  expression  of  delight. 

[        234        ] 


We  saw  many  women  making  lace  in  their 
houses,  an  employment  which  seems  to  be 
wholly  domestic  in  these  countries.  Pasture 
and  bleaching  grounds  near  Ghent,  where  we 
arrived  at  ^ve  o'clock,  and  were  joyfully  recog- 
nised by  the  good  people  of  the  Hotel  de 
Flandres,  from  the  Master  and  Mistress  down 
to  the  little  boy  who  ascended  the  Belfrey  with 
us. 

Having  in  consequence  of  the  advanced  season 
dismissed  the  open  carriage,  we  had  taken  a 
close  one,  and  a  different  coachman  from 
Brussels.  This  man  had  been  employed  in 
conveying  the  wounded  from  Waterloo  to  the 
hospital  in  that  city,  and  what  he  had  seen 
while  upon  that  service,  he  said,  had  made  him 
ill.  He  enquired  of  Koster  what  was  the 
meaning  of  O  Lord!  which  he  said  the  men 
repeatedly  cried  out  along  the  road.  Some  of 
our  officers,  whom  he  had  seen  lying  on  the 
feild,  were  pierced  with  more  than  twenty 
bayonet  wounds. 

The  Vardons  arrived  at  Ghent  half  an  hour 
after  us,  and  we  supt  at  the  Table  cTHote, 
Here  Koster  had  a  long  conversation  with  a 

[        235        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


high   spirited   young    Frenchman,    who   hated 
Buonaparte,  despised  the  Bourbons,  and  groaned 
over  the  state  of  his  country.     The  Marshals, 
he  said,  were  all  brigands,  except  one  or  two ; 
instancing  Clarke  and  Macdonald  as  exceptions. 
And  when  we  mentioned  Pudinot,  he  exclaimed 
with  great  delight,  Pudinot  is  my  countryman  ! 
Louis,   he   said,  ought   to  have   hanged  some 
thirty  of  the  chief  brigands,  and  broken  all  the 
officers  of  the  rabel  army  ;  and  in  this  I  heartily 
agreed  with  him.     The  Duke  de  Berry  seems  to 
be  detested  by  everybody;    he   must   have   a 
rare  union  of  demerits  to  be  regarded  at  once 
with   so  much  contempt  and   abhorrence.     In 
one  point  this  young  Frenchman,  however,  was 
mistaken.      He   insisted   that   the   old   Guard 
cared  nothing  for  Buonaparte ;  that  it  was  for 
their  country  they  felt  and  fought,  and  that 
they  would  have  fought  with  the  same  good  will 
for  the  King.      Now  our  coachman  had  seen 
one  of  this  guard  who  had  lost  both  thighs, 
and   in   that   condition    lain  four  and    twenty 
hours  upon  the  field.     He  had  seen  that  man 
wave  his  hat  over  his  head  for  Buonaparte,  and 
heard  him  exclaim :    Vive  PEmpereur^  au  sacre 

i       236       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


nom  de  Dku !  It  is  beyond  all  doubt  that 
there  was  a  very  strong  military  feeling  in 
Buonaparte's  favour. 


Tuesday^  Oct.  24. 

Seven  leagues  to  Courtray.  The  road  comes 
frequently  near  the  river  Lys.  We  saw  some 
barges  drawn  against  the  stream  by  six  or  seven 
men,  with  much  greater  exertion  than  I  should 
have  looked  for  in  so  level  a  country.  Vines 
are  in  some  places  here  trained  upon  the  roofs 
of  the  houses,  and  the  appearance  is  very 
pleasing.  Some  houses  have  three  or  four  rows 
of  tiles  at  the  bottom  of  the  thatch  ;  and  the 
thatch  at  the  points  of  the  house  is  usually  tied 
in  some  fantastic  form. 

During  this  day's  journey  we  had  some  cloud 
scenery  of  the  grandest  character.  At  one  time 
the  clouds  were  cumulated  till  they  resembled 
a  range  of  Alpine  mountains  covered  with 
snow,  and  with  the  appearance  of  deep  rifts  and 
drifts,  the  sun  shining  upon  them.  At  another 
they  extended  in  one  dark  mass  above  us,  but 
terminated  on  the  west  in  a  line  of  lighter  sky, 

[       237       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


over  which  a  curtain  literally  seemed  to  be  let 
down  when  the  rain  began  to  fall  there  in  heavy 
streaks. 

The  effect  of  the  light  falling  upon  the  red 
sails  of  a  windmill  in  motion  was  equally 
singular  and  striking.  In  some  places  there 
was  a  most  abominable  stench  of  manure.  Ves- 
pasion  might  well  lay  a  tax  upon  such  a  com- 
modity if  it  were  used  in  this  way. 

We  put  up  at  the  Golden  Lion,  which  is  an 
excellent  hotel,  but  the  charges  higher  than 
they  ought  to  be.  We  had  the  comfort  of  a 
grate  and  a  good  fire  in  the  sitting  room,  llie 
hearth  was   composed  of  bricks   set  within   a 

brazen  plate  of  this  shape, s^ ,  the  brass 

where  it  was  straight  being  more  than  a  foot 
wide.  There  were  some  prints  in  the  room 
engraved  at  Augsburg  from  English  originals  ; 
the  subjects  were  from  Werter,  and  I  think 
they  were  Bunbary^s  designs.  Here  I  find  that 
the  oiled-paper  table  tops  fit  like  a  cover,  over 
a  deal  frame.  They  make  up  thirty-three  beds 
in  this  house,  and  one  woman,  who  is  the  only 
female  servant,  does  the  whole  work,  and  clean* 
the  house  also.     We  had  English  knives  here> 

[        238        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


and  the  desert  was  served  upon  fine  old  China. 
This  is  the  only  place  where  we  were  asked  if 
we  had  brought  our  own  sheets  or  would  use 
those  of  the  house.  Every  thing  was  very  good 
here,  but  the  charges  higher  than  we  had  found 
them  anywhere  else,  except  at  Aix  la  Chapelle. 

The  Place  at  Courtray  has  one  fine  object,  a 
tower,  which  appears  to  rise  very  incongruously 
from  some  modem  houses.  The  town  has  little 
appearance  of  life,  and  yet  little  of  decay. 
There  were  some  pitiful  caricatures  of  the  Eng- 
lish in  a  shop  window :  one  of  them  represented 
Mylord  Plumpydding  avec  Mylady  CorrMe. 
Nothing  could  be  worse. 

Here  I  bought  the  Histoire  Mcmmnentaire 
du  Nord  des  Gaules  appuySe  sur  les  Traces  mar- 
quantes  et  les  Vestiges  durables  des  Andennes 
Colonies  qui  out  illusM  les  Fortes  Belgiques. 
Par  J.  B.  Lambioz,  T.  1',  printed  at  Mons, 
without  a  date,  but  about  1800  I  suppose.  As 
the  work  of  a  curious  and  credulous  man,  who 
has  brought  together  the  antiquities,  traditions, 
and  fabulous  history  of  these  parts,  with  some 
learning  and  little  discrimination,  I  am  glad 
to   have   met  with  it,  and  wish  it   had   been 

[       239       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


continued   thro'   three   volumes   more,   as   the 
author  proposed. 


Wednesday^  Oct.  25. 

ITie  Landlord  enquired  which  of  our  party 
had  slept  in  No.  29,  and  having  learnt  that 
Koster  was  the  person,  told  him  the  Duke  of 
York  had  slept  in  that  same  bed  and  chamber 
five  and  twenty  years  ago. 

Courtray  appeared  to  most  advantage  as  we 
left  it.  Two  short  leagues  to  Menin,  over  a 
dismal  country,  but  of  good  pasture.  Menin, 
which  once  exported  much  cloth,  especially  to 
Spain,  and  whose  breweries  were  famous  far  and 
wide,  is  now  a  decayed  and  dolorous  place, 
strikingly  so  to  those  who  remember  how  fre- 
quently it  was  mentioned  in  the  Gazettes  diu-ing 
the  first  years  of  the  war.  The  buildings  are  in 
ruins ;  grass  is  growing  in  the  streets ;  the 
works  are  neglected;  they  are  cultivated  in 
some  places,  and  one  part  is  converted  into  a 
cabbage  garden.     Sic  transit ! 

Three  longer  leagues  over  a  pleasanter  country 
to  Ypres.     The  scenery  becomes  more  English, 

[       240       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


and  in  one  part  there  were  some  fields  slovenly 
enough  to  look  like  bad  English  farming.  On 
our  left  we  had  some  rising  ground,  and  the 
remarkable  hill  upon  which  Cassel  stands  in  the 
distance.  We  saw  a  great  many  windmills  in 
this  stage,  and  very  picturesque  ones;  some 
had  the  door  very  high  above  the  ground,  others 
with  a  round  stone  building  at  the  ba^e.  Upon 
arriving  at  Ypres  we  found  that  there  were 
3000  Hanoverians  quartered  in  the  town. 

We  drove  to  two  inns,  both  in  the  Great 
Place.  The  one  appeared  very  bad,  and  at  the 
other,  which  was  little  better,  the  extreme 
incivility  of  the  people  determined  us  not  to 
stop ;  so  we  sallied  in  search  of  something  less 
repulsive,  and  found  civil  treatment  at  the 
Tete  d'Or. 

While  dinner  was  preparing  I  went  out  with 
Koster  and  Mr.  Nash  to  see  what  this  decayed 
and  mournful  city  might  contain.  In  the  days 
of  its  prosperity  the  Great  Place  must  have 
been  one  of  the  finest  things  in  the  Low  Coun- 
tries, perhaps  the  very  finest.  For  tho'  the 
Town  House  has  not  the  florid  beauty  of  those 
at  Louvain  and  Brussels,  it  is  more  imposing 

r       241        ]  Q 


II  ■ 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

than  either,  from  its  extent  and  grandeur  and 
position.  I  know  of  no  building  wherewith  it 
may  be  compared.  It  has  a  character  of  its 
own,  and  might  be  taken  either  for  a  palace  or 
for  the  most  magnificent  of  colleges. 

In  the  Cathedral,  which  stands  behind  this 
noble  edifice,  there  are  some  respectable  pictures. 
One,  which  the  Sacristan  pointed  out  to  us, 
represented  an  attack  upon  the  city  by  the 
English  in  former  times.  Over  one  of  the 
doors  within  there  are  some  life-large  figures  of 
Saints  and  Bishops  painted  on  wood,  and  cut 
out  to  resemble  life.  In  a  land  which  has  been 
above  all  others  prolific  of  great  painters,  one 
wonders  to  find  such  things  as  these.  It  is 
remarkable  that  the  very  name  of  Jansenius, 
''  wherewith  all  Europe  rung  from  side  to  side,*" 
is  now  utterly  unknown  to  the  very  people  who 
shew  this  church  wherein  he  is  buried.  I  wished 
to  have  seen  his  gi-ave.  The  Sacristan  knew  of 
no  such  person ;  perhaps,  he  said,  it  might  be 
the  Bishop  Henry,  whose  surname  had  not  been 
added  upon  his  tombstone,  and  who  died  in 
167-  the  tombstone  having  apparently  either 
been  prepared  in  his  lifetime  or,  by  some  strange 

[       242        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


neglect,  left  in  this  unfinished  state  by  his  repre- 
sentatives. But  Jansenius'  name  was  Cornelius, 
and  this  was  the  grave  of  Henrik  van  Halmale, 
the  fourth  Bishop  after  him,  who  died  in  1677. 
Perhaps  the  monument  of  Jansenius  may  have 
been  removed  thro'  the  influence  of  the 
Jesuits.  Perhaps  the  materials  were  worth 
something,  and  it  may  have  been  demolished 
in  the  days  of  revolutionary  plunder.  It  was  a 
disappointment  to  me  not  to  find  it,  tho'  I 
have  no  respect  for  his  person  and  a  thorough 
detestation  for  his  doctrine,  which  is  mere 
Calvinism. 

Seeing  that  an  old  plan  of  Ypres,  made  in 
the  15th  century,  had  been  newly  engraved, 
and  was  announced  for  publication  by  bills 
upon  the  walls,  I  went  to  the  shop  where  it  was 
sold.  I  did  not,  however,  purchase  it,  because 
from  its  size  it  could  not  have  been  carried 
without  inconvenience  and  injury;  but  there 
were  some  books  in  the  shop,  among  which, 
few  as  they  were,  I  found  some  that  I  was  very 
glad  to  obtain.  The  one  was  a  Dutch  Poem 
upon  the  Great  Earthquake  at  Lisbon,  by  Frans 
de  Hals,  a  quarto,  with  some  large  vignettes, 

[       243       ] 


w 


I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

and  an  admirable  portrait  of  the  author  by 
Houbreken,  the  face  being  most  remarkable  for 
length  of  narrow  chin  and  prominence  of  nose. 
Disagreeable  the  countenance  is  not,  for  it  is 
mild  and  intellectual ;  but  nothing  can  well  be 
imagined  more  unhandsome,  and  yet  the  Author 
has  printed  some  verses,  written  in  his  fifteenth 
year,  on  the  effects  produced  upon  him  by  a 
kiss  from  a  sweet  mouth  !  Some  of  his  poems 
are  upon  a  less  trivial  subject — the  benefit  he 
had  derived  from  Mrs.  Stephens's  remedy  for 
the  Stone. 

My  other  purchase  was  a  collection — and  I 
believe  a  compleat  one — of  VondaPs  Works, 
which  must  have  been  made  with  no  little  care, 
the  plays  having  all  been  printed  separately, 
^nd  none  of  the  other  compositions  collectively, 
€xcept  two  vol.  of  Poems.  The  portrait  of 
him  in  his  eighty-fourth  year  is  the  very  finest 
engraved  portrait  I  ever  saw  for  effect  and 
breadth,  and  yet  it  has  no  engraver'^s  name 
affixed  to  it.  The  collection  is  in  eleven 
volumes  foolscap  quai-to,  and  I  paid  forty 
franks  for  it — a  great  prize.  At  Brussels  I 
wished  to   have   bought   the  works  of  Jacob 

[        244        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


i 


Cats,  who  of  all  writers  in  all  languages  best 
deserves  to  be  called  the  Household  Poet ;  but 
for  the  best  edition,  in  one  huge  folio,  Verbeyst 
asked  140  franks;  and  tempting  as  the  book 
was,  I  might  as  well  think  of  buying  a  Tortoise- 
Shell  Tom  Cat  as  giving  such  a  price  for  it. 

This  purchase  will  always  make  me  recollect 
Ypres  with  pleasure.  The  stove  at  our  Inn 
contained  the  fire  in  a  well-shaped  urn.  The 
wine  was  bad  there,  especially  a  weak  sweet 
wine  to  which  they  give  the  name  of  Tours,, 
and  which  is,  of  course,  a  wine  from  the  Loire, 
about  the  worst  in  kind  I  ever  tasted.  We  had 
met  with  it  before  at  La  Belle  Alliance.  In 
general,  when  the  wines  have  not  been  good  we 
have  found  the  Rhenish  the  best ;  being  the 
best  of  good  wines,  it  seems,  even  when  bad,  to 
preserve  its  superiority. 

The  Coachmen  were  very  much  out  of  humour 
with  Ypres.  Cesi  une  vilaine  ville !  said  the 
one.  You  have  not  fared  well  then  ?  was  the 
reply,  upon  which  he  answered,  (Test  ne  pas 
Bruxelles,  and  declared  that  he  would  never 
again  take  this  road  with  any  pei'son.  The 
country   immediately  without   the  walls  is  in 

[       245       ] 


I 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


pasturage,  drear  and  ugly.  It  soon  improved, 
and  again  became  of  English  character.  Hop- 
poles  are  laid  up  in  the  fields  in  stacks  and 
thatched  over.  The  stench  of  manure  upon 
this  day''s  journey  was  sometimes  almost  in- 
tolerable; some  of  it  was  in  barrels.  It  was 
plain  even  to  nasal  demonstration  that  nothing 
is  wasted  here  which  can  be  applied  to  this 
useful  purpose.  The  distances  are  irregularly 
estimated  by  short  leagues,  strong  leagues,  and 
leagues  of  the  post;  the  latter  are  like  our 
posting  miles  in  England,  measured  for  the 
profit  of  the  posting  concern.  Indeed,  we  have 
everywhere  found  the  distance  less  than  it  was 
represented.  ITie  barriers  are  each  a  post 
league  asunder.  There  are  neither  mile  nor 
league  stones ;  and  when  you  come  to  a  direct- 
ing post,  it  expresses  the  distance  by  the  frac- 
tions of  a  post,  thus  :  2/4  vers  Vpres,  2/4  J  vers 
Poperinge,  It  is  a  stage  of  two  short  leagues 
from  Ypres  to  Poperinge,  and  there  I  am  now 
writing  by  a  comfortable  wood  fire,  in  a  bed- 
room at  the  Grand  Cerf,  The  fireplace  of  this 
chamber  is  as  large  as  the  ingle  of  an  old  farm- 
house, and  when  we  came  in  it  was  closed  by  a 

[        246        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

chimney  board  big  enough  to  have  served  as  a 
scene  for  a  strolling  company  of  players.  The 
people  are  civil  and  obliging.  They  sent  us 
good  coffee  in  an  old  battered  ill-shaped  coffee 
pot  which  had  once  been  plated,  but  now  the 
copper  was  everywhere  appearing ;  the  cups 
were  of  beautiful  French  porcelain,  made  at 
Nantz. 


Thursday^  Oct,  26. 

We  breakfasted  in  the  public  room,  which 
was  in  no  better  stile  than  the  rest  of  the  poor 
house.  It  was,  however,  furnished  with  some 
prints  which,  tho"*  poor  in  themselves,  were 
interesting  to  me  for  their  subjects.  One  which 
bore  for  its  title  La  Lionne  reconnoissante, 
represented  the  lying  story  of  the  woman  at 
Buenos  Ayres  which  is  told  by  Chgurlevoix  on 
the  authority  of  I  know  not  what  fellow  fabler. 
Its  companion  was  upon  a  truer  tale,  a  mother 
falling  on  her  knees  before  a  Lion  who  had  got 
loose  in  the  streets  of  Florence,  and  entreating 
him  to  spare  her  child.  Over  the  chimney  was 
an  engraved  portrait,  which  probably  had  hung 

[        247        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


there  from  the  time  it  was  published,  and  now 
recalled  a  long  train  of  mournful  recollections. 
It  was  the  portrait  of  Elizabeth  Philippe 
Marie  Helme  de  France,  Sceur  de  Mm- 
seigTmir  le  Dauphin,  ix^e  a  VersaiUes  le  3  Mai, 
1764. 

The  church  at  Poperinge  is  much  dilapidated. 
They  are  now  repairing  the  inside,  and  the 
masons,  to  my  surprize,  were  going  on  with 
their  work  during  mass,  tho'  the  church  was 
as  full  as  the  population  of  the  place  gave  any 
cause  for  expecting.  A  flat  tombstone  from 
the  floor  of  the  church  was  lying  in  the  street. 
I  noticed  one  at  Courtray  which  had  been  laid 
in  the  pavement.  In  England  we  walk  over 
them  with  indifference  in  a  church  or  church- 
yard ;  it  would  not  be  so  if  we  were  to  see  them 
thus  irreverently  laid  in  the  street.  But  Forbes 
tells  us  that  during  his  detention  in  France  he 
saw  tombstones,  which  had  been  taken  from  a 
demolished  church,  set  up  as  tables  in  some 
public  tea  gardens ! 

The  poorest  towns  thro'  which  we  have 
past  have  never  been  without  a  silversmith's 
shop.     There  are  three  or  four  in  this  paltry 

[        248        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


place,   so   great   and   universal   is   the   use   of 
trinkets. 

The  coachman  tells  us  that  the  women  dis- 
like the  young  English  officers  for  their  in- 
civility and  rudeness,  but  that  they  fear  the 
Prussian ;  the  one  are  discourteous,  the  others 
brutal.  Here  at  Poperinge,  however,  the  Prus- 
sians have  left  a  good  character ;  they  paid  for 
everything  and  behaved  well.  The  English, 
says  Sir  Cochee,  are  in  general  too  brusques; 
they  enter  a  house  as  if  it  were  their  own.  He 
observed  that  there  were  two  sorts  of  men  with 
whom  it  was  very  unpleasant  to  travel — the 
parvenus,  and  those  fellows  who,  having  nothing 
and  being  nobody  at  home,  go  abroad  and  give 
themselves  airs. 

One  of  our  horses  fell  lame  here,  having 
strained  itself  in  its  impatience  at  going  behind 
the  heavy  carnage.  There  was  much  difficulty 
in  procuring  another.  Past  several  fields  of 
beet,  the  effects  of  Buonaparte's  continental 
system.  Hop-poles  are  laid  up  much  more 
carefully  than  in  England,  and  I  should  think 
must  last  longer  in  consequence.  Some  dozen 
are  fixed  upright  in  the  ground  so  as  to  form  a 

[        249        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


parallellogram  frame,  within  which  the  others 
are  laid  at  length,  and  then  thatched  over. 
These  stacks  look  like  so  many  huts. 

The  French  Custom  House  is  at  Cost  Cap- 
pel  le.  That  on  the  Belgian  side  we  had  past 
without  trouble  or  impediment  at  the  cost  of 
two  or  three  franks,  and  the  Coachmen  had 
assured  us  that  the  same  facility  would  be 
found  here ;  but  we  met  with  a  sour  and  surly 
Frenchman  who  insisted  upon  opening  every- 
thing. A  younger  and  civiller  man,  whose 
hand  was  itching  for  a  five  frank  piece,  whis- 
pered to  us  that  he  was  very  sorry  for  this,  but 
that  it  was  owing  to  the  presence  of  the  Super- 
intendent. In  these  cases  the  Portuffueze 
remedy  is  of  approved  efficacy ;  and  being 
patient  perforce,  we  submitted  to  what  at  first 
was  a  very  rude  overhauling.  The  passports 
were  found  good.  I  had  had  the  precaution  at 
Ghent  of  having  all  our  Waterloo  swords  and 
sabres  sewn  up  in  one  wrapper,  that  we  might 
not  unnecessarily  expose  them  to  the  eyes  of 
the  French.  The  smaller  trophies  which  be- 
longed to  us  were  so  wrapped  up  among  our 
things   that   there  was  little   chance   of  their 

[       250       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 

being  seen  unless  every  separate  article  were  sus- 
piciously examined.  Mr.  Nash's  trunk,  which 
was  behind  our  carriage,  was  produced  the  first, 
and  upon  opening  it  the  first  thing  that 
appeared,  lying  on  the  very  top,  was  the  button 
of  a  French  uniform,  bearing  the  Eagle.  At 
sight  of  this  the  old  Frenchman  muttered 
something  in  a  very  growling  tone,  and  asked 
how  that  came  there.  Cest  a  moi,  replied  poor 
Mr.  Nash,  and  put  it  in  his  pocket,  turning  to 
me  w^ith  a  look  of  such  dolorous  expression 
that  it  was  impossible  to  help  laughing.  After 
opening  and  examining  three  or  four  trunks 
the  men  began  to  be  tired,  and  they  began  to 
be  civil  also,  seeing  the  good  humour  and  per- 
fect unconcern  with  which  we  submitted  to  the 
search.  They  assured  us  that  this  proceeding 
here  would  save  us  from  a  much  more  rigorous 
examination  at  Bergues,  or  Dunkirk,  for  their 
certificate  would  clear  us  at  both  places. 

We  now  thought  all  was  done.  The  trunks 
were  replaced,  and  I  had  again  taken  my  seat 
in  the  carriage  when  I  was  summoned  into  the 
house  to  show  what  money  I  had  about  me. 
It  was  the  poor  stock  of  a  single  guinea  and  a 

[        251        ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 


single  Napoleon.  But  upon  my  treasurer, 
Koster,  among  eight  or  ten  pieces  four  false 
Louis  were  found.  We  had  received  this  money 
from  Danot  the  Banker  at  Brussels,  some  days 
after  the  Gazette  had  officially  announced  that 
such  counterfeits  were  in  circulation,  and 
pointed  out  the  marks  by  which  they  might  be 
distinguished.  Mr.  Nash's  and  the  Vardons' 
were  all  good,  Mr.  Worth,  who  had  cashed 
their  bills,  having  been  scrupulously  and  pro- 
perly exact  in  examining  what  he  gave  them. 

Here  was  an  inconvenient  loss,  because  we 
had  aimed  at  taking  no  more  foreign  coin  with 
us  than  would  clear  us  out  of  the  country.  But 
the  loss  was  likely  to  be  the  least  unpleasant 
part  of  the  business.  The  Superintendent  (a 
gentlemanly  man)  showed  us  the  circular  letter 
by  which  he  was  enjoined  to  search  all  tra- 
vellers for  this  false  money,  and  he  laid  some 
little  stress,  courteously  but  perceptibly,  upon 
the  assumed  (and  probable)  fact  that  it  was  of 
English  manufactory,  which  we  readily  admitted 
they  were  likely  to  be.  He  must  send  the  four 
pieces  to  Dunkirk,  he  said,  and  an  officer  of 
the   customs   must  go   with  us    to  that  city. 

[        252       ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


A  fellow  made  ready  at  the  word  with  all  speed 
to  accompany  us  upon  this  pleasant  errand. 
Upon  this  Koster  exclaimed  he  would  rather 
lose  the  four  Louis  at  once.  There  was  good 
reason  for  this,  for  he  had  more  money  in  his 
dressing  case,  which,  as  the  case  had  not  been 
examined,  he  had  not  thought  fit  to  produce ; 
and  because  he  had  not  produced  it  he  was  now 
apprehensive  that  further  search  might  lead  to 
a  discovery  of  more  of  the  same  die,  and  then 
assuredly  the  endeavour  at  concealing  them 
would  have  placed  us  in  a  suspicious  light.  I 
understood  his  fears,  and  joined  with  him  in 
declaring  that  we  did  not  want  to  be  encum- 
bered with  a  custom  house  Officer  for  the  sake 
of  four  Louis.  If  they  were  false  they  might  as 
well  be  destroyed  where  they  were,  and  we 
would  throw  them  into  the  fire  or  cast  them 
into  the  nearest  ditch.  But  the  Superintendant 
had  no  authority  to  destroy  them,  nor  instruc- 
tions how  to  dispose  of  such  false  money  as  he 
found ;  and  when  we  proposed  to  leave  them  in 
his  hands,  he  expressed  an  apprehension  that 
we  might  suspect  him  of  converting  them  to 

his  own  use,  an  objection,  however,  which  soon 

[        253       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

yielded  to  our  professions  concerning  his  honour. 
I  am  ashamed  of  the  uncharitable  opinion  which 
I  formed  at  the  time,  for  upon  reflection  I  am 
satisfied  that  the  gentleman  acted  toward  us 
both  honourably  and  kindly — honourably  in 
believing  that  we  were  not  concerned  in  circu- 
lating base  coin,  and  kindly  in  sparing  us  the 
expence  and  trouble  to  which  he  might  have 
put  us,  and  which  might  have  been  greater 
than  he  was  aware  of,  for  upon  examining 
Koster's  remaining  stock,  three  others  of  the 
same  die  were  discovered.  The  Banker'^s  con- 
duct was  inexcusable;  he  was,  moreover,  the 
only  Banker  who  made  us  pay  J  per  cent,  for 
receiving  gold  instead  of  silver.  So  we  left  the 
Louis  and  proceeded. 

This  Custom  House  is  about  ^ve  miles  from 
Poperinge ;  from  Poperinge  to  Bergues  being 
as  many  leagues.  There^is  high  ground  in  the 
distance  on  the  left,  and  that  eminence  on  which 
Cassel  stands  is  conspicuous.  The  country  is 
well  cultivated  ;  but  along  the  whole  line  from 
Courtray  there  are  no  marks  of  prosperity,  the 
towns  are  dead  and  stagnant,  the  villages  with- 
out the  Flemish  and^'iBrabantine  characteristics 

[        254        ] 


IN    THE    NETHERLANDS 


of  chearfulness  and  comfort.  The  approach  to 
Bergues  presents  a  not  unpleasing  scene— the 
church  tower;  within  the  works  and  on  the 
summit  of  them  a  sort  of  pyramid  or  obelisk  of 
open  wood  work  (I  know  not  of  what  use  nor 
why  erected),  the  fortifications,  a  few  poplai-s, 
and  an  open  green  country.  We  past  moat 
after  moat,  and  gate  after  gate,  til  J,  at  the  inner 
gate,  our  passports  were  required,  examined,  and 
returned  to  us  with  much  civility  by  a  man 
with  a  wooden  leg.  In  another  minute,  just 
as  we  had  turned  the  corner  close  at  hand, 
a  blackguard-looking  fellow  stopt  the  Coach 
and  again  demanded  them.  Mr.  Vardon  said 
they  had  already  been  inspected.  The  fellow 
instantly  cried  out,  send  two  armed  men 
immediately!  and  two  soldiers  stept  forward 
from  the  gate  house  to  the  horses'  heads.  ^Ve 
who  saw  this  and  had  only  heard  the  call  were 
compleatly  ignorant  of  what  might  be  the  cause. 
Edith  was  alarmed,  and  Koster,  thinking  at 
once  that  the  Buonapartists  were  making  a  new 
struggle  in  France,  said,  "  things  are  evidently 
in  a  very  disturbed  state  here.*"  On  we  moved 
at  a  funeral  pace,  the  two  soldiers,  like  mutes, 

[       255       ] 


JOURNAL    OF    A    TOUR 

leading  the  way,  and  the  whole  population  of 
this  melancholy  town  crowding  to  the  doors 
and  windows,  and  into  the  street,  to  see  a  party 
of  English  travellei's  who  had  been  put  under 
arrest.  At  length  we  reached  the  middle  of 
the  Great  Place,  where  the  Commandant,  coming 
out  of  an  Hotel,  saw  us,  and  came  to  enquire 
into  the  matter.  Is  it,  Sire,  said  he,  that 
you  have  no  passports  ?  Mr.  Vardon  pre- 
sented  them,  and  told  him  what  had  pasL 
He  looked  at  the  papers,  and  saying  that  all 
was  perfectly  correct,  begged  us  to  proceed, 
and  reprimanded  the  fellow  for  his  officious 
interference.  The  soldiers  were  dismissed  and 
we  drove  into  the  hotel  from  which  the  Com- 
mandant had  come  out. 

Here  were  the  best  beds  which  we  had  seen 
since  we  landed  on  the  continent.  While  the 
horses  rested  we  had  some  bread  and  cheese 
and  indifferent  wine,  for  which  we  were  charged 
very  dearly.  The  Flemish  language  seems  as 
common  here  as  the  French,  the  shopkeepers 
using  it.  The  belfrey  is  a  fine  tower ;  the  town 
itself,  like  all  upon  this  line,  mournful  and  in 
decay. 

[       256       ] 


A    LIST    OF 


HEINEMANN'S 
BLICATIOI 


Telegrams: 
Sunlocks,  London 

Telephone 
2279  Gerrard 


London 

21  Bedford  Street 
Strand,  W.C. 
June  1 90 J 


THE   BADMINTON    MAGAZINE 

OF  SPORTS  AND  PASTIMES 


EDITED   BY 


/ 


ALFRED  E.  T.  WATSON 


PUBLISHED  MONTHLY  PRICE  ONE  SHILLING  NET 

ALSO  IN  HALF' YEARLY  VOLUMES 

Volumes  I»— 1895,    IL  and  IIL,  1896.    IV,  and  V.,  i897, 
VI.  and  Vn^  1898.      VIIL  and  IX.,  1899.     X«  and  XI.,  1900. 

6s«  each. 

Volumes  XII.  and  XIIL,  1901.     XIV.,  1902.    71.  dd.  each  net» 

FOUR  COLOURED  ILLUSTRATIONS  ARE  NOW  GIVEN 

IN  EACH  PART,  IN  ADDITION  TO  THE  USUAI 

BLACK-AND-WHITE  ILLUSTRATIONS 


THE 

NORTH    AMERICAN    REVIEW 


EDITED  BY 


GEORGE    HARVEY 


PUBLISHED  MONTHLY 
PRICE    TWO    SHILLINGS    AND    SIXPENCE 


r*^^    ^lEINEMANN^S 
CATALOGUE 

8^  MR,  nEINEMANNwill  send  any  hound  hook  in  this  list 
on  approval  on  receipt  of  the  title  0/ the  tvork  required  and  th. 
name  of  the  nearest  Oooksefler  through  whom  it  may  be  sent. 

art,  Hrcbaroloop,  <Sc 

SIR  HENRY  RAEBURN.     By  Sir  Walter   Armstrono 

RTM°il^'^"''°"^^^'"JJ^^y'  ^^'^'^"^-  ^^^»'>^n  Introduction  hv 
f 't  r^lv  r^''^r'°''|!  \"'^x?  Biographical  and  Descriptive  Catalogue  by 
k  \>\^  kP'^'lT  "^  '^^  National  Portrait  Gallery  of  Scotland  "  With 
IslTn^    '"  Photogravure  aud  2  in  Lithographic  fac-simile.     Imp  Vto, 

GAINSBOROUGH       By  Sir  Walter  Armstrong.      With 

62  Photogravures,  and  10  Lithographs  in  Colours.     Imp.  4to. 

{Out  o/print. 

l^^^vu^  REYNOLDS.     By  Sir  Walter  Armstrong. 

With  70  Photogravures  and  6  Lithographs  in  Colour.    Imp.  4to,  £5  5s  net 

^"^^fo^M^^^  OF  ROMANCE.   By  William  Nicholson.* 

T     fC   A?,   °*^  "^   P""i[l    •"  J?°^^"^^    °f  characters   famous   in   fiction; 

^"MrxSy^W™'     ^'^'.'r'     FOTHERINGAY   AND     CAPTAIN     COSTIGAN 

3.  Mr.  Tony  Weller  ;  4.  Mr.  Rochester  ;  5.  Madgk  Wildfire  •  6  Mr 
JoRRocKs  ;  7.  Chicot  ;  8.  Commodore  Trunnion  ;  9.  Vans  yperkfn  ' 
i^^i^.'^'-'^''^^'' '  ";  Gargantua;  12.  John  Silver  ;   13    SoPHf^  Wes- 
ITZ'^ni.  ""  Munchausen  ;  xj.  Miss  Havisham'  x6.  PorthoL 

^^^Ji^tJ'^.?-  ^y  William  Nicholson.   Mounted  for  framing, 

15  in.  by  i6|  in.     Price  2s.  6d.  each  net.  ^ 

Her  late  Majesty  Queen  Victoria. 
The  Archbishop  of  Canterbury. 
Cecil  Rhodes. 
James  McNeill  Whistler. 
Sir  Henry  Irving. 
Rudyard  Kipling. 

*    J»f  <^^fJJe  \2  portraits  may  be  had  in  a  portfolio,  Mce  21  j  mt      A  /rn., 

Lord  Kitchener.  The  Kaiser. 

A  NEW  PORTRAIT  OF  LORD  ROBERTS.    By  William 
Nichoi^on.     Size  20  X, 5  in.    Price  5^.  net.  ^7  VVILLIAM 

THE   SQUARE   BOOK   OF    ANIMALS.      By  William 

JifSt^r:?    ^^'^^  Rhymes  by  Arthur  Waugh.    The  Popular  Edition 
hlhographed  on  Q  rtr  dge-paper.     410  boards.     Price  5*.  '^'O^ion, 

AUoa  limited  edition,  lU  Japanese  vellum.    Price  12s.  6^.  nei 


His  Majesty  the  King. 
Sarah  Bernhardt. 
Lord  Roberts. 
Prince  Bismarck. 
W.  E.  Gladstone. 
Sir  Henry  Hawkins. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


LONDON     TYPES.     By    William    Nicholson.      Twelve 

Coloured  Plates,  each  illustrating  a  type.     With  Quatorzains  by  W.  E. 
Henley.     4to,  boards.    Lithographed  on  Cartridge  Paper.     Price  5*. 

♦,*  A  few  sets  of  the  Plates,  printed  from  the  Original  Wood-blocks,  and 
Hand-coloured  by  the  Artist,  in  Portfolio.    Price  T^venty  Guineas  net. 

AN  ALMANAC  OF  TWELVE  SPORTS.    By  William 

Nicholson.     Twelve  Coloured  Plates,  each  illustrating  a  sport  for  the 
month.  With  accompanying  Rhymes  by  Rudyard  Kipling.     410,  boards. 
Lithographed  on  Cartridge  Paper.     Price  2j.  6</. 
*  ♦  j(   ff-iy  fgfs  cf  the  Plates,  printed  from  the  Original  Woodblocks  and 
Hand-coloured  by  the  Artist,  in  Portfolio.     Price  Twenty  Guineas  net. 

AN    ALPHABET.    By    William    Nicholson.     Twenty-six 

Coloured   Plates,  each   illii^i rating  a  jetter  of  the  alphabet.     4to,  boards. 
Lithographed  on  Cartridge  Paper.     Price  s-r. 
The  Library  Edition  (Limited).     Lithographed  in  Colours  on  Dutch  Hand- 
made Pap-r,  mounted  on  brown  paper  and  bound  in   cloth,  Gilt  Edges. 
Price  I  ay.  dd.  net. 
*»*  A  few  sets  oj    the  Plates,  printed  from,  the  Original  Woodblocks  and  , 
Hand-coloured  by  the  A  rtist,  in  Portfolio.    Price  £21  net. 

BRITISH  CONTEMPORARY  ARTISTS.  Critical 
Studies  of  Watts,  Mh.lais,  Alma-Tadema,  FiuRNE-JoNES,  Orchard- 
son,  Leighton,  and  Poynter.  By  Cosmo  Monkhouse.  Cheap  re- 
issue.    In  One  Volume,  Royal  8vo.     Illustrated.     Price  lo*.  net. 

RUBENS.  His  Life,  his  Work,  and  his  Time.  By  Emile 
MiCHEL.  Translated  by  Elizabeth  Lee.  With  40  Coloured  Plates, 
40  Photogravures  and  272  Text  Illustrations.  In  Two  Volumes,  Imperial 
8vo,  £,2  2S.  net. 

LEONARDO  DA  VINCI.  Artist,  Thinker,  and  Man  of 
Science.  From  the  French  of  Eugene  Mintz,  Member  of  the  Insti- 
tute of  France,  &c.  With  48  Plates  and  252  Text  Illustrations.  In  Two 
Volumes.     Price  £2  2s.  net. 

ANTONIO   ALLEGRI   DA  CORREGGIO:    His  Life,  his 

Friends,  and  his  Time  By  Corrado  Ricci,  Director  of  the  Royal 
Gallery,  Parma  Translated  by  Florence  Simmonds.  With  16  Photo- 
gravure' Plates,  21  full-page  Plates  in  Tint,  and  190  Illustrations  in  the 
Text     Imperial  8vo,  £2  2s.  net. 

REMBRANDT:  His  Life,  his  Work,  and  his  Time.    By  Emile 

Michel,  Member  of  the  Institute  of  France.  Translated  by  Florence 
Simmonds.  Edited  and  Prefaced  by  Frederick  Wedmore.  Second 
Edition,  Enlarg^-d.  with  76  full-page  Plates,  and  250  Illustrations  in  the 
Text.  In  One  Volume,  gilt  top,  or  in  Two  Volumes,  imperial  8vo, 
£2  2S.  net. 
%*  A  /ew  co/iies  of  the  Evnion  de  Luxe  of  the  Fi^st  Edition,  pHnted  on 

Japanese  vellum  with  India  proof  duplicates  0/  the  photogravures,  are  still  on 

sale,  price  £12  x-^s.  net. 

REMBRANDT,  Seventeen  of  his  Masterpieces  from  the  collec- 
tion of  hi>  Pictures  in  the  Cassel  Gallery.  Reproduced  in  Photogravure 
by  the  Berlin  Photo-rapWc  Company..  With  an  Essay  by  Fkeuekick 
WEUMORii.  la  large  portfolio  27i  indies  X3  0  nches  Twelve  Gmre»- 
ntt. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


A  HISTORY  OF  DANCING:  From  the  Earliest  Aj^es  to 
Our  Own  Times.  From  the  French  of  Gaston  Vuillier.  With  24 
Plates  in  Photogravure  and  409  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  In  One 
Volume,  4to.     Price,  cloth,  36J.  net,  or  Vellum,  gilt  top,  sos.  net. 

•♦*  Also  35  copies  printed  on  Japanese  vellum  (containing  3  additional 
Plates),  with  a  duplicate  set  of  the  Plates  on  India  paper  for  framing.  Each 
copy  nuvibered  and  signed,  price  J^\2  12s.  net. 

ROMAN   ART.     Some  of  its  principles  and  their  application  to 

Early  Christian  Painting.  By  Franz  Wickhoff.  Translated  and 
edited  by  Mrs.  S.  Arthur  Strong,  LL.D.  With  14  plates  and 
numerous  text  Illustrations.    £i  16s.  net. 

MASTERPIECES  OF  GREEK  SCULPTURE.    A  Series 

of  Essays  on  the  History  ef  Art.  By  Adolf  Furtwangler.  Authorised 
Translation.  Edited  by  Eugenie  Sellers.  With  19  full-page  and  200 
text  Illustrations.     Imperial  Svo,  ^^3  3^.  net. 

♦»*  Also  an  Edition  de  Luxe  on  Japanese  vellum^  limited  to  50  numbered 
copies,  in  Two  Volumes ^  price  £\2  ifis.  net. 

POMPEI :   The  City,  its  Life  and  Art.     By  Pierre  Gusman. 
Translated  by  Florence  Simmonds  and  M.  Jourdain.     With  500  text 
Illustrations,   and   12  coloured  plates    from  drawings  by  the   Author 
Imperial  Svo,  £x  \ts.  net. 

THE  LIFE  AND  DEATH  OF  MR.  BADMAN.  Pre- 

sented  to  the  world  in  a  familiar  dialogue  between  Mr.  Wiseman  and 
Mr.  Attentive.  By  John  Bunyan,  Author  of  "  The  Pilgrim's  Pro- 
gress." With  Twelve  Compositions  by  George  Woolliscroft  Rheaii 
and  Louis  Rhead  designed  to  portray  the  deadly  sins  of  the  ungodly. 
Mr.  Badman's  journey  from  this  world  to  Hell.  One  Volume  quarto  on 
Imitation  hand-made  paper.     Price  15J.  net. 

%*  Also  a  limited  edition  on  Dutch  Hand-made  Paper  at  £1  lis.  6d.  net. 

BEAUTY  AND  ART.  By  Aldam  Heaton.  Crown  Svo, 
cloth,  6s. 

CATALOGUE  OF  THE  EXHIBITION  OF  INTER- 
NATIONAL ART,  KNIGHTSBRIDGE,  1898.  THE  INTER- 
NATIONAL SOCIETY  OF  SCULPTORS,  PAINTERS  AND 
GRAVERS,  ILLUSTRATED  SOUVENIR.  In  One  Volume,  4to, 
boards.  With  108  Reproductions  from  the  works  exhibited  (including  3 
Photogravures).    Price  3^.  6^.  net. 

A  CATALOGUE  OF  THE  ACCADEMIA  DELLE 

BELLE  ARTI  AT  VENICE.  With  Biographical  Notices  of  the 
Painters  and  Reproductions  of  some  of  their  Works.  Edited  by  E.  M. 
Keary.    Crown  Svo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.  net ;  paper,  2s.  net. 

A  CATALOGUE  OF  THE   MUSEO  DEL  PRADO  AT 

MADRID.  Compiled  by  E.  Lawson.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  3J.  net ;  paper, 
2S,  6d.  net. 

ANIMAL  SYMBOLISM   IN  ECCLESIASTICAL 

ARCHITECTURE.  By  E.  P.  Evanb.  With  a  Bibliography  and 
Seventy-eight  lUust  rat  ions,  crown  Svo,  ^. 

A 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST, 


JSiofltapbs  an&  Correspon&ence^ 

THE  VERSAILLES  HISTORICAL  SERIES. 

■"  A  Series  of  Memoirs,  Correspondence^  and  Letters  of  Noted 
Persons  belonging  to  the  different  European  Courts^  giving 
Graphic  Descriptions  of  Court  Life,  State  Secrets,  and  the 
Private  Sayings  and  Doings  of  Royalty  and  Court  Attaches. 
Translated  and  arranged  by  Katherine  Prescott  Worme- 
LEY.  Illustrated  with  numerous  Photogravures.  In  Eighteen 
Vols.t  demy  8vo. 

MEMOIRS    OF    MADAME    DE    MOTTEVILLE    ON 

ANNE  OF  AUSTRIA  AND  HER  COURT.    With  an  Introduction 
•-  by  C.  A.  Sainte-Beuve.    In  Three  Volumes.    £3  3s.  net. 

MEMOIRS    OF    THE    DUG    DE   SAINT-SIMON.    On 

the  Times  of  Louis  XIV.  and  the  Regency.  Translated  and  arranged 
from  the  edition  collated  with  the  original  manuscript  by  M.  Cheruel. 
Four  Volumes.    Price  £4  4s.  net. 

THE  CORRESPONDENCE  OF  MADAME,  PRIN- 
CESS PALATINE,  Mother  of  the  Regent ;  of  Marie  Adelaide  de 
Savoie,  Duchesse  de  Bourgogne  ;  and  of  Madame  De  Maintenon,  in 
relation  to  Saint-Cyr.  Preceded  by  Introductions  from  C.-A.  Sainte» 
BfiuVE.     One  Volume.     21^.  net. 

JOURNAL    AND     MEMOIRS    OF     THE    MARQUIS 

D'ARGENSON.  Published  from  the  Autograph  MSS.  in  the  Library  o£ 
the  Louvre.  By  E.  J.  B.  Rathery.  With  an  Introduction  by  C.-A. 
Sainte-Beuve.    In  Two  Volumes.    £2  2s.  net. 

MEMOIRS  AND  LETTERS  OF  CARDINAL  DE 
BERNIS.  With  an  Introduction  by  C.-A.  Sainte-Beuve.  In  Two 
Volumes.    £2  3s.  net. 

LETTERS  OF  MLLE.  DE  LESPINASSE.     With  Notes 

on  her  Life  and  Character,  by  D'Alembert,  Marmontel,  De  Guibert. 
&c.,  and  an  Introduction  by  C.-A.  Sainte-Beuve.  In  One  Volume. 
2is.  net. 


THE   PRINCE    DE 

Miscellaneous  Papers. 

Beuve  and  Madame  de  Stael-Holstein 


LIGNE.     His   Memoirs,    Letters,   and 

With  Introduction  and  Preface  by  C.-A.  Sainte- 

42s,  net. 


Two  Volumes. 


DIARY    AND     CORRESPONDENCE     OF      COUNT 

AXEL  FERSEN,  Grand  Marshal  of  Sweden,  relating  to  the  Court  01 
France,     In  One  Volume,     zis.  net. 

THE  LIFE  AND  LETTERS  OF  MADAME  ELISA- 
BETH DE  FRANCE,  followed  by  the  Journal  of  the  Temple  by  Cl6ry, 
and  the  narrative  of  Marie  Th^rese  de  France,  Duchesse  D'ANGOULiMB. 
In  One  Volume.    21J.  net. 

THE  BOOK  OF  ILLUSTRIOUS  LADIES.     By  Tierrk 

DE  Bourdeille,  Abb6  de  Brantome.    With  Elucidations  on  some  of 
those  Ladies  by  C.-A.  Sainte-Beuve.    One  Volume.    21s.  net. 


:fBiO()rapb»  an&  CoiTcspon&cnce* 


THE 


^.LOVE    LETTERS    OF    PRINCE 

Ji.dued    by   Prince    Herukrt    Bismarck. 
Demy  8vo,  2of.  net. 


Volumes. 


With 


BISMARCK. 

Portraits.     In    Two 


DE 


'^^^b  ^^MOI'RS  OF  VICTOR    HUGO.      With  a  Preface 
^^L^^IAM    COTTON    OSWELL,    Hunter    and   Explorer 

^"  mE^JoF  ^""Kv^iJl^^^    °F    JOHN     DONNE 
^4^^;?;°         "-""^'y  °f  St.  Andrews.    In  TwoVilumes,  8»a'  Mm 

QUINCEY    MEMORIALS.     Bein?   Letters  anri   nfh.. 

Records  here  first  PubUshed.  with  CommuSns  fro  n  ?oleS?dge  t^e 
Wordsworths,  Hannah  More,  Professor  Wn  som  TnH «.k  ^ J-  ? 
w,^I„god„ct,o„.  Notes,  and  N^tWeX  A^eSer  H.'j"pp  Sd" 
F.R.S.E.    In  Two  Volumes,  demy  8vo,  cloth,  with  Portraits,  3".  neT     ■" 

^^"^ZffK^^    SAMUEL    TAYLOR    COLERIDGE. 
MEMOIR  OF  ROBERT,  EARL  NUGENT.   With  Letters 

fsrpo^r^Ss-fiir  BL';--\i"^-:  s^ters-oS 

Gainsborough,  and  others.     In  One  Volume/Svo!;     Pnce  fe^  * 

^^^s^d- ^^^.^^K^^^     ^^     WELLINGTON.      Twelve 

vtt^'j^-     u'^I't^  by  Spknser  Wilkinson.     With  an   Introduction  bv 
8voI  ;^."S  ^^^^'''  ^"  ^^^^^«^«-     With  PortrSnd  Plans! 

FROM  HOWARD  TO  NELSON.    Twelve  Sailors     F^Jf^ 
by  John  Knox  Lauchton,  M.A.  With  PortraS  Map.  ^^^^ 

NEW  LETTERS  OF  NAPOLEON  I.     Omitted  from  fb. 

Edition  published   under    the   auspices  of  Napoleon      II       T        ,  .! 

fcSp^ie^cr^^.c^'^^ " '-•  '^  o^^tz^i^'^::^ 

MEMOIRS  OF  SERGEANT  BOURGOGNE  ri8i2-i8n] 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


THE  LIFE  OF  JUDGE  JEFFREYS.    By  H.  B.   Irving, 

M.A.  Oxon.  Demy  8vo,  with  Three  Portraits  and  a  Facsimile,  X2S.  6d.ntU 

STUDIES    OF     FRENCH      CRIMINALS      OF     THE 

NINETEENTH  CENTURY.    By  H.  B.  Irving.    Demy  8vo,  los.  net. 

MARYSIENKA:  Marie  de  la  Grange  d'Arquien,  Queen  of 
Poland,  and  Wife  of  Sobieski  (1641-1716).  By  K.  Waliszewski.  Trans- 
lated from  the  French  by  Lady  Mary  Loyi>.  In  One  Volume,  with 
Portrait.     8vo,  cloth.     Price  12J.  net. 

PETER    THE    GREAT.     By  K.   Waliszewski,  Author  of 

"The  Romance  of  an  Empress,"  "  The  Story  of  a  Throne."  Translated 
from  the  French  by  Lady  Mary  LoYD.  With  a  Portrait.  8vo,  cloth,  65.; 
or  Library  Edition,  in  Two  Volumes,  Svo,  28^. 

CARDINAL  MANNING.  From  the  French  of  Francis  de 
Pressens6  by  E.  Ingall.     Crown  8vo,  5^. 

THE    PALMY    DAYS    OF   NANCE    OLDFIELD.      By 

Edward  Robins.     With  Portraits.     8vo,  12s.  6d. 

AS  OTHERS  SAW   HIM.    A  Retrospect,  a.d.  54.     Crown 

8vo,  gilt  top,  6s. 

BROTHER  AND  SISTER.  A  Memoir  and  the  Letters  of 
ERNEST  and  HENRIETTE  RENAN.  Translated  by  Lady  Mary 
LoYD.  Demy  8vo,  with  Two  Portraits  in  Photogravure,  and  Four 
Illustrations,  14^. 

CHARLES  GOUNOD.  Autobiographical  Reminiscences  with 
Family  Letters  and  Notes  on  Music.  Translated  by  the  Hon.  W.  Hely 
Hutchinson.    Demy  Svo,  with  Portrait,  los.  6d. 

MEMOIRS.     By  Charles  Godfrey  Leland  (Hans  Breit- 

mann).     Second  Edition.    8vo,  with  Portrait,  price  7^.  6d. 

EDMOND   AND  JULES  DE  GONCOURT.     Letters  and 

Leaves  from  their  Journals.  Selected.  In  Two  Volumes,  Svo,  with 
Eight  Portraits,  32^. 

ALEXANDER  III.  OF  RUSSIA.  By  Charles  Lowe, 
M.A.,  Author  of  "  Prince  Bismarck  :  an  Historical  Biography."  Crown 
8vo,  with  Portrait  in  Photogravure,  6s. 

PRINCE  BISMARCK.  An  Historical  Biography.  By 
Charles  Lowe,  M.A.  With  Two  Portraits.  Cheap  Edition,  crown  Svo, 
2j.  6d. 

MY    FATHER    AND    I.      A   Book   for   Daughters.     By  the 

Countess  Puliga.     Crown  Svo,  with  Four  Portraits,  6s. 

STORY  OF  THE  PRINCESS  DES  URSINS  IN  SPAIN 

(Camarera-Mayor).  By  Constance  Hill.  With  12  Portraits  and  a 
Frontispiece.     In  One  Volume,  Svo.    Price  js.  6d.  net. 

CATHERINE  SFORZA.  By  Count  Pasolinl  Abridged 
and  Translated  by  Paul  Sylvester.  Illustrated  with  numerous  repro- 
ductions from  Original  Pictures  and  documents.     Demy  8vo,  16s. 

VILLIERS    DE    L'ISLE    ADAM :    His   Life  and  Works. 

From  the  French  of  Vicomte  Robert  du  Pontavice  de  Heussey. 
By  Lady  Mary  Loyd.  With  Portrait  and  Facsimile.  Crown  Svo,  cloth, 
xos.  6d, 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


THE  LIFE  OF  HENRIK  IBSEN.  By  Henrik  J^ger. 
Translated  by  Clara  Bell.  With  the  Verse  done  into  English  from  the 
Norwegian  Original  by  Edmund  Gosse.    Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6^ 

RECOLLECTIONS  OF  MIDDLE  LIFE.  By  Francisque 
Sarcby.    Translated  by  E.  L.  Carey.    Svo,  with  Portrait,  10s.  6d. 

TWENTY-FIVE  YEARS  IN  THE  SECRET  SERVICE. 

The  Recollections  of  a  Spy.    By  Major  Henri  le  Caron.    With  New 
Preface.     Svo,  boards,  price  "zs.  bd.,  or  cloth,  35-.  6d. 

*♦*  The  Library  Edition,  with  Portraits  and  Facsimiles,  Zvo^  14J.,  is  still 
on  sale. 

STUDIES    IN    FRANKNESS.     By  Charles    Whibley. 

Crown  Svo,  with  Frontispiece,  price  js.  6d. 

A    BOOK    OF    SCOUNDRELS.    By  Charles  Whibley. 

Crown  Svo,  with  Frontispiece,  price  ys.  6d. 

THE  PAGEANTRY   OF  LIFE.     By  Charles  Whibley. 

Crown  8vo,  with  Frontispiece,  price  js.  6d. 

THE  DIARY  OF  A  CONDEMNED  MAN.  By  Alfred 
Hermann  Fried.  Translated  from  the  German  by  S.  Van  Straalen. 
Crown  8vo,  2s.  6d. 

THE    WOMEN    OF    HOMER.      By    Walter    Copland 

Perry,    With  numerous  Illustrations,  large  crown  Svo,  6s. 

THE    LOVE    LETTERS    OF    MR.  H.  AND    MISS    R. 

1775-1779-     Edited  by  Gilbert  Burgess.    Square  crown  Svo,  5s. 

LETTERS    OF    A    BARITONE.     By  Francis  Walker. 

Square  crown  Svo,  $s. 

LETTERS  OF  A  COUNTRY  VICAR.  Translated  from 
the  French  of  Yves  le  Querdec.  By  M.  Gordon  Holmes.  Crown 
Svo,  is. 


GREAT  LIVES  AND  EVENTS. 

Uniformly  bound  in  cloth,   6s.   each  volume. 
RECOLLECTIONS      OF    COUNT     LEO    TOLSTOY. 

Together  with  a  Letter  to  the  Women  of  France  on  the  "  Kreutzer 
Sonata."  By  C.  A.  Behrs.  Translated  from  the  Russian  by  C.  E. 
Turner,  English  Lecturer  in  the  University  of  St.  Petersburg.  With 
Portrait. 

THE  FAMILY  LIFE  OF  HEINRICH  HEINE.  Illus- 
trated by  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  hitherto  unpublished  letters  ad. 
dressed  by  him  to  different  members  of  his  family.  Edited  by  his  nephew" 
Baron  Ludwig  von  Embden,  and  translated  by  Charles  Godfrey 
Leland.    With  4  Portraits. 

THE  NATURALIST  OF  THE  SEA-SHORE.    The  Life 

of  Phihp  Henry  Gosse.  By  his  son,  Edmund  Gosse,  Hon.  M.A. 
Trinity  College,  Cambridge.     With  a  Portrait. 

MEMOIRS     OF     THE      PRINCE      DE    JOINVILLE. 

Translated  from  the  French  by  Lady  Mary  Loyd.  With  78  Illustrations 
from  drawings  by  the  Author, 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


ALFRED,    LORD  TENNYSON.     A  Study  of  His  Life  and 

Work.     By  Arthur  Waugh,  B.A.  Oxon.     With  Twenty  Illustrations 
from  Photographs  specially  taken  for  this  Work.     Five  Portraits,  and 

Facsimile  of  Tennyson's  MS. 

NAPOLEON   AND   THE   FAIR   SEX.     From  the  French 

of  Frederic  Masson.     With  a  Portrait. 

PETER  THE  GREAT.    By  K.  Waliszewski.     Translated 
from  the  French  by  Lady  Mary  Loyd.    With  a  Portrait. 

THE   STORY   OF   A    THRONE.     Catherine  H.  of  Russia. 

From  the  French  of  K.  Waliszewski.     With  a  Portrait. 

THE    ROMANCE    OF    AN    EMPRESS.     Catherine  U.  of 

Russia.     From  the  French  of  K.  Waliszewski.     With  a  Portrait. 

A    FRIEND    OF    THE    QUEEN.      Marie  Antoinette  and 
Count  Fcrscn.    From  the  French  of  Paul  Gaulot.    Two  Portraits, 


IblstotB  an5  ©eograpbg* 
THE  REGIONS  OF  THE  WORLD 

A  New  Geographical  Series.    Edited  by  H,  J,  MA  CKINDER, 

M.A .,  Student  of  Christ  Churchy  Reader  in  Geography  in 

the  University  of  Oxford^  Principal  of  Reading  College. 

The  Series  will  consist  of  Twelve  Volumes,  each  being  an  essay 
descriptive  of  a  great  natural  region,  its  marked  physical  features, 
and  the  life  of  its  peoples.  Demy  8vo.  Fully  Illustrated  in  the 
Text  and  with  many  Maps  and  Diagrams.  Price  7s.  6d.  each. 
Or  by  subscription  for  the  set,  £4  4J. 

LIST  OF  THE  SUBJECTS  AND  AUTHORS: 
X.  BRITAIN    AND    THE    BRITISH    SEAS.      By    the 

Editor.  [Ready. 

2.  SCANDINAVIA  AND  THE  ARCTIC  OCEAN.     By 

Sir  Clements  R.  Markham,  K.C.B.,  F.R,S.,  President  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society. 

3.  THE     MEDITERRANEAN     AND    FRANCE.      By 

Elis6e    Reclus,    Professor  of    Geography  in   the   New  University  of 
Brussels,  Author  of  the  "  Nouvelle  G^graphie  Universelle." 

4.  CENTRAL  EUROPE.     By  Dr.  Joseph  Partsch,  Pro- 

fessor of  Geography  in  the  University  of  Breslau. 

5.  AFRICA.     By  Dr.  J.  Scott  Keltie,  Secretary  of  the  Royal 

Geographical  Society,  Editor  of  "  The  Statesman's  Year  Book,"  Author 
of  ••  The  Partition  of  Africa." 

6.  THE  NEARER  EAST.  By  D.  G.  Hogarth,  M.A..  Fellow 

of  Magdalen  College,  Oxford,  Director  of  the  British  School  at  Athens, 
Author  of  "  A  Wandering  Scholar  in  the  Levant."  [Ready, 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


7.  THE   RUSSIAN    EMPIRE.    By   Prince  Kropotkin 
Author  of  the  Articles  "  Russia,"   "Siberia"  and  "Turkestan"  in  the 
Encyclopaedia  Bntannica. 

«.  THE     FARTHER    EAST.    By    Archibald    Little 

Author  of  "  Through  the  Yang-tse  Gorges."  ' 

9.  INDIA.    By  Col.  Sir  Thomas  Holdich,  K.C.I.E.,  C.B.. 

R.E.,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Frontier  Surveys. 

10.  AUSTRALASIA    AND    ANTARCTICA.     By   H.  O. 

Forbes,  LL.D.  Director    of  Museums  to  the  Corporation  of  Liverpool 
formerly  Director  of  the  Christchurch  Museum,  N.Z.,   Author  of  "A 
Naturalist's  Wanderings  in  the  Eastern  Archipelago,"  "  A  Handbook  to 
the  Primates.' 

XI.  NORTH  AMERICA.    By  Israel  C.  Russell,  Professor 

of  Geography  in  the  University  ol  Michigan. 

12.  SOUTH   AMERICA.     By  J.  C.   Branner,  Professor  of 
Geology  in  tht  Stanford  University,  California. 


THE  WORLD'S   HISTORY. 

A  Survey  of  Matins  Record. 
Edited  by  Dr.  H.  F.  HELMOLT. 

To  be  completed  in  Eight  Volumes.  Royal  8vo.  With  many  Maps, 
Coloured  Plates,  and  Black-and-white  IllustrationF.  Price  in  cloth  15X. 
net  per  volume,  or  in  half  morocco,  ai  j.  net. 

X.  PRE-HISTORY:   AMERICA   AND    THE    PACIFIC 

OCEAN.   With  an  Introductory  Essay  by  the  Right  Hon.  Tames  Brvcb. 
D.C.L.,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.  [Ready. 

2.  OCEANIA,  EASTERN   ASIA   AND  THE    INDIAN 

OCEAN. 

3.  WESTERN  ASIA— AFRICA. 

4.  THE  MEDITERRANEAN  NATIONS.  IReady. 

5.  EASTERN  EUROPE— THE  SLAVS. 

6.  THE  TEUTON  AND  LATIN  RACES. 

7.  WESTERN  EUROPE  TO  1800. 

8.  WESTERN  EUROPE  SINCE  1800— THE  ATLAN- 

TIC OCEAN. 

THE  GREAT  PEOPLE'S  SERIES. 

Edited  by  F,  YORK  POWELL,  M.A. 

1.  THE    SPANISH    PEOPLE.     Their  Origin,  Growth,  and 

Influence.     By  Martin  A.  S.  Hume.     Crown  8vo.  6s. 

2.  THE  FRENCH  PEOPLE.     By  Arthur  Hassall,  M.A 

Crown  8vo,  6s. 

3.  THE  RUSSIAN  PEOPLE.    By  J.  Fitzmaurice-Kelly. 

[In /re^aratiffft. 


iLtfia'Trfamaribi 


w 


10 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


A     POLITICAL    HISTORY     OF    CONTEMPORARY 

EUROPE,  SINCE  1814.  Translated  from  the  French  of  Charles. 
Seignobos.     In  Two  Vohimes,  Demy  8vo,  20s.  net. 

THE    CHILDREN    OF   THE    NATIONS.      A    Study  o( 

Colonisation  and  Its  Problems.  By  Poultney  Bigelow,  M.A.,  F.R.G.S, 
8vo,  loj.  net. 

THE     GENESIS    OF     THE     UNITED     STATES.    A 

Narrative  of  the  Movement  in  England,  1605-1616,  which  resulted  in  the 
Plantation  of  North  America  by  Englishmen,  disclosing  the  Contest 
between  England  and  Spain  for  the  Possession  of  the  Soil  now  occupied 
by  the  United  States  of  America ;  set  forth  through  a  series  of  Historical 
Manuscripts  now  first  printed,  together  with  a  Re-issue  of  Rare  Contem- 
poraneous Tracts,  accompanied  by  Bibliographical  Memoranda,  Notes, 
and  Brief  Biographies.  Collected,  Arranged,  and  Edited  by  Alexander 
Brown,  F.R.H.S.  WithiooPortraits,  Maps,  and  Plans.  In  Two  Volumes, 
royal  8vo,  buckram,  £2  13^-  ^^'  net. 

DENMARK:    its   History,  Topography,  Lans^uage,  Literature. 

Fine  Arts,  Sqci.-^l  Life,  and  Finance.  Edited  by  H.  Weitemever.  Demy 
8vo,  cloth,  with  Map,  12s.  6d. 

Dedicated,  by  permission,  to  H.M.  the  Queen. 


*  * 


THE    LITTLE    MANX   NATION.     (Lectures  delivered  at 

the  Royal  Institution,  1891.)  By  Hall'Caine,  Author  of  "The  Bond- 
man," *'  The  Scapegoat,"  &c.     Crown  8vo,  cloth,  3^.  td.\  paper,  2j.  td. 

ANNALS  OF  SANDHURST.  A  Chronicle  of  the  Royal 
Military  College  from  its  Foundation  to  the  Present  Day,  with  a  Sketch  of 
the  History  of  the  Staff  College.  By  Major  A.  F.  Mocki.er-Ferrvman. 
With  12  full-page  Illustrations.     Demy  Svo,  \os.  net. 

THE  MODERN  JEW.     By  Arnold  White.     Crown  Svo, 

half-leather,  gilt  top,  75-.  dd. 

ISRAEL  AMONG  THE  NATIONS.  Translated  from  the 
French  of  Anatole  Leroy-Beaulieu,  Member  of  the  Institute  of  France. 
Crown  Svo,  7^.  td. 

THE  JEW  AT  HOME.  Impressions  of  a  Summer  and 
Autumn  Spent  with  Him  in  Austria  and  Russia.  By  Joseph  Pennell. 
With  Illustrations  by  the  Author.     4to,  cloth,  5J, 

SPANISH    PROTESTANTS    IN    THE     SIXTEENTH 

CENTURY.  Compiled  from  Dr.  Wilken's  German  Work.  By  Rachel 
Challice.  With  an  Introduction  by  the  Most  Rev.  Lord  Plunket, 
late  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  and  a  Preface  by  the  Rev.  Canon  Fleming. 
Crown  8vo,  i^s.  6d.  net. 

QUEEN    JOANNA    I.    OF    NAPLES,     SICILY,    AND 

JERUSALEM  ;  Countess  of  Provence,  Forcalquier,  and  Piedmont.  An 
Essay  on  her  Times.  By  St.  Clair  Babdelev.  Imperial  Svo,  with 
numerous  Illustrations,  \6s. 

CHARLES   III.   OF   NAPLES  AND  URBAN  VI.;  also 

CECCO  D'ASCOLI,  Poet,  Astrologer,  Physician.  Two  Historical  Essays. 
By  St.  Clair  Baddelev.    With  Illustrations,  8vo,  cloth,  10s.  6d, 

ROBERT   THE    WISE   AND    HIS    HEIRS,    1278-1352. 

By  St.  Clair  Baddelev,    8vo,  21s. 

MY  PARIS  NOTE-BOOK.    By  Albert  D.  Vandam,  Author 

of  "  An  Englishman  in  Paris."    Demy  8vo,  price  2s.  6d.  net. 

UNDERCURRENTS    OF    THE    SECOND    EMPIRE. 

By  Albert  D.  Vandam.     Demy  Svo,  cloth,  js.  6d.  net. 

STUDIES  IN  DIPLOMACY.  By  Count  Ben  edetti,  French 
Ambassador  at  the  Court  of  Berlin.     Demy  Svo,  with  a  Portrait,  10*.  6d, 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST, 


iz 


AN     AMBASSADOR    OF    THE    VANQUISHED 

Viscount  Elie  De  Gontaut-Biron's  Mission  to  Beriin,  1871-1877.  From 
^^•laPx?"*^  ^""i  Memoranda.  By  the  Duke  de  Broglie.  Translated 
with  Notes  by  Albert  D.  Vandam.     In  One  Volume  Svoioj  6d 

1812.  NAPOLEON  I.  IN  RUSSIA.  By  VassIu  V^rest- 
SwT'     ^'S"  •''"   Introduction  by  R.   Whiteing.      Illustrated  from 

TTo  T?if^?«  2,"^  Paintings  by  the  Author.    Crown  Svo,  6s. 

^^^^^r!«^^,^^^  WORKS.    By  Friedrich  C.  G.  Muller. 
With    88    Illustrations    by    Felix   Schmidt   and   Anders    Montan. 
TMl?     »°^'lTiiT''A'iS"^JS?ri^^,^'''"^"-     4to.     Price  25^.  net. 

THE    REALM    OF    THE    HABSBURGS.      By  Sidney 

T  K/t  DS^?^T*i\^'  Author  of  "Imperial  Germany."    Crown  Svo,  7s.  6d. 
IMPERIAL    GERMANY.     A  Critical   Study  of    Fact   and 

Character.    By  Sidney  Whitman.   New  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 

Crown  Svo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.;  paper,  2s. 

IPoUttcs  anb  (Questions  of  tbe  2)ap* 

^"^ffH''^.'?.'^\^iS^^ONS^NSE-BOOK.  In  the  style 
of  the  old     Book  of  Nonsense,"  by  the  late  Edward  Lear.    By  the  Poet 

r  T  A^^'^A^'^VxT^^  ^T  ?te^J?'""^^^^^"^-"   Paper,  i^. ;  cloth,  l. 
^^w^    \^     BLUNDERLAND.      By  Caroline  Lewis. 

a^rTt:^ 'LV°  i'™^'^!?^  ^y  S-  ^-     Crown  Svo,  2s.  6d. 

THE    MASTERY   OF   THE    PACIFIC.    By  Archibald 

AT  T      '^^Ml?''uTT^'oA^^c?'^nJ"'"^^'-^tions.     Demy  Svof  18^.  net. 

n  ^}^'^  RUSSIAS.     Travels  and  Studies  of  Contemporary 

Conditions  and   Problems  in   European  Russia,    Finland,   Siberia,    the 

Caucasus,  and  Central  Asia.     By  Henrv  Norman,  M.P..  Author  ot 

Peoples  and  Problems  of  the  Far  East,"  «'  The  Real  Japan,"  &c.     With 

T  ^-r/^"I*r'i'^i'?'*°"^a"^^^3PS-     Demv  8vo,  i8j.  net. 

LORD  MILNER  AND  SOUTH  AFRICA.    By  E.  B.  Iwan 

^,,^IuLLER.     With  Two  Portraits,     Demy  Svo.  iw  net 

^"^R^i^^  ^°"^="  AFRICA,  'its  Vllueand  Development. 

^**^of Iwv  A#•^'^■^^  1^°^^  WITHIN.  A  Private  Record 
S!,S   ^fw'"-    r  J.-T-  ^-  f'T^P^J^CK-    With  a  Map  and  New  Inlro- 

8va  ,?'J'1.?.''^P         f",'-.?™'  /J?*-  '°^-  ""• :  ^"P"'^'-  Edition,  crown 
_.,  Jtvo,  2A  Grf.  net ;  P..per  Edition,  6ti.  net. 

Re^o^^^f  ^^^v^^^^c^^  KRUGERISM.  A  Personal 
Record  of  Forty  Years  in  South  Africa.     By  John  Scoble,    Ti;;:es 

rZ'y^nfr  f^u  *?  .^[,^*°"^  ^r^'°^  *°  ^^e  present  war,  and  H.  R.  Aber- 

CROMBiE  of  the  Intelligence  Department,  Cape  Colony.     Library  Edition. 

n^T^J^'^'^^X^ii^'.''^^ '  P^P"^^*"  Edition,  2s.  6d.  ntt.  ^  i^Qifon, 

^^^*..?o^^^^    AFRICAN    CONSPIRACY,   OR    THE 

AJIMS^OF  AFRIKANDERDOM.    By  Fred.  W.  BelL,  F.S.S.    Demy 

WHY  KRUGER  MADE  WAR,  OR  BEHIND  THE 

P?P/v  ^^^^;  t.^yJ°"/  ^-  Buttery.  With  Two  Chapters  on  the 
Pabt  and  Future  of  the  Rand,  and  the  Mining  Industry.  By  A.  Cooper 
Key.     Crown  8vo,  3^.  6d.  j         j  ^ 

CHINA    AND    THE    ALLIES.     By   A.    Henry    Savage 

Landor,  Author  of  "In  the  Forbidden  Land,"  &c.     In  Two  Volumes. 
n^tj^^VrlV^L  J^ith  numerous  Maps  and  Illustrations.     Price  30J.  net. 

^  ^H^^^^p^i^^  ^T^  ^^^  ^^ST.  SibIria-Japan 
nhSi     w-.i,^/^r'*''\  Leroy-Beaulieu.     Translated  by  Richard 

TMl?     )^TTt:^it'rfcF''^If^i^,"^^''^  Norman.    Crown  Svo,  6s. 

THE  QUEEN'S  SERVICE.  Being  the  Experiences  of  a 
Piivate  Soldier  m  the  British  Infantry  at  Home  and  Abroad.  By  Horace 
Wyndham,  lateofthe— th.Regt.    3^.6^. 

A  2 


IS 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


CAN  WE  DISARM  ?  By  Joseph  McCabe.  Written  in  Col- 
laboration with  Georges  Darien     Crown  8vo,  cloth,  3s.  6d. 

TROOPER  3809.  A  Private  Soldier  of  the  Third  Republic. 
By  Lionel  Decle,  Author  of  "Three  Years  in  Savage  Africa.  *  With 
Eight  Illustrations  by  H.  Chartier.     Crown  8vo,  6r. 

MADE  IN  GERMANY.  Reprinted  with  Additions  from 
T/te  New  Revie^v.  By  Ernest  E.  Williams.  Crown  8vo,  cloth,  2*.  6d. 
Also  Popular  Edition,  paper  covers,  i£i  .  ^  ..,,.„  ^        ^     „ 

THE  FOREIGNER  IN  THE  FARMYARD.     By  Ernest 

E    Williams,  Author  of  *'  Made  in  Germany."     Crown  8vo,  2^.  bd. 
THE    WORKERS.    An  Experiment  in  Reality.     By  Waltef 
A.   WvcKOFF.    The  East.     With  Five  Illustrations,  crown  8vo.    Price 


THE^^WORKERS.    An  Experiment  in  Reality.     By  Walter 

A  WvcKOFF.     The  West.     With  Twelve  Illustrations,  crown  Svo.     Price 


3J.  net. 


*  « 


The  Two  Volumes  in  Card  Box,  6s.  net. 


Sport,  H5ventui*et  an6  UvareL 

NICHOLSON'S   ALMANAC   OF  TWELVE   SPORTS. 

See  page  2.  _  .     _^     ^      «      ^ 

SPORT  IN  WAR.  By  Lieut. -General  R.  S.  S.  Baden- 
Powell,  F.R.G.S.    With  19  Illustrations  by  the  Author.    Crown  8vo, 

CRICKET  IN  MANY  CLIMES.    By  P.  F.  Warner.    With 

72  Illustrations  from  Photographs.  Crown  Svo,  7^.  6d.  Also  Cheap 
Edition,  paper  cover,  2s.  6d.  ,  /.     o.   t-.-     • 

PINK  AND  SCARLET;  or.  Hunting  as  a  School  for  Soldiering. 
By  Lieut.-Colonel  E.  A.  H.  Alderson,  D.S.C,  The  Queen's  Own 
Regiment.     Illustrated.     Demy  Svo,  cloth,  7^.  6d.  net. 

DRIVING  FOR  PLEASURE;  or,  The  Harness  Stable  and 
its  Appointments.  By  Francis  T.  Underhill.  Illustrated  with  One 
Hundred  and  Twenty-four  full-page  Plates.  Imperial  8vo,  buckram 
sides,  leather  back,  price  28*.  net.    ,.^  .  ^^^,^  ^,,^  ^,_       ^   „ 

THROUGH  THE  FIRST  ANTARCTIC  NIGHT,  1898- 

1899.  A  narrative  of  the  voyage  of  the  Belgica,  among  newly  discovered 
lands  and  over  an  unknown  sea  about  the  South  Pole.  By  Frederick 
A.  Cook,  M.D.,  Surgeon  and  Anthropologist  of  the  Belgian  Antarctic 
Expedition.  With  an  appendix,  containing  a  summary  of  the  Scientific 
Results.  Demy  Svo,  Cloth,  with  4  Coloured  plates,  and  over  100 
Illustrations  from  photographs  and  drawings.     20s.  net. 

ITALIAN  JOURNEYS.      By  W.  D.  Howells.     With  103 

Illustrations  by  Joseph  Pennell.     Pott  4to,  los.  net. 

A    LITTLE    TOUR    IN    FRANCE.     By  Henry  James. 

With  94  Illustrations  by  JesEPH  Pennell.     Pott  4to,  los.  net. 

MOUNT  OMI  AND  BEYOND  :  A  Record  of  Travel  on  the 
Thibetan  Border.  By  Archibald  John  Little,  F.R.G.S.  Author  of 
"  Through  the  Yangtsi  Gorges,"  &c.  With  a  Map,  Portrait,  and  15 
Illustrations,  from  Photographs  by  Mrs.  Little,    ioj.  net. 

INNERMOST  ASIA.  Travel  and  Sport  in  the  Pamirs.  By 
Ralph  P.  Cobbold,  late  60th  Rifles.  With  Maps  and  Illustrations. 
Demy  8vo,  cloth,  21J. 

THE  FORBIDDEN  LAND.     An  Account  of  a  Journey 

in  Tibet;  Capture  by  the  Tibetan  Authorities;  Imprisonment,  Torture, 
and  Ultimate  Release.  By  A.  Henry  Savage  Landor,  Author  of 
"Corea  the  Land  of  the  Morning  Calm,"  &c.  Also  various  Official  Docu- 
ments including  the  Enquiry  and  Report  by  J.  Larkin,  Esq.,  Appointed 
by  the  Government  of  India.  With  a  Map  and  250  Illustrations.  Popular 
Ildidon  in  one  ▼olume.    Large  Svo.     Price  7^.  (>d.  net. 


IN 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


13 


COREA,  OR  CHO-SEN,  THE  LAND  OF  THE  MORN- 
ING CALM.  By  A.  Henry  Savage  Landor.  With  38  Illustrations 
from  Drawings  by  the  Author,  and  a  Portrait,  demy  8vo,  18s 

THE  INDIAN  FRONTIER  WAR.     Being  an  Account  of 

the  Mohmund  and  Tirah  Expeditions,  1897.  By  Lionel  James,  Special 
Correspondent  for  Renter's  Agency  and  Artist  for  the  Graphic.  With  32 
full-page  Illustrations  from  Drawings  by  the  Author,  and  Photographs, 
and  10  Plans  and  Maps.     Svo,  price  75.  td. 

WITH  THE  ZHOB  FIELD  FORCE,  1890.      By  Captain 

Crawford  McFall,  K.O.Y.L.I.     Demy  8vo,  with  Illustrations,  i8j. 
ROMANTIC  INDIA.     By  Andre  Chevrillon.     Translated 

from  the  French  by  William  Marchant.    Svo,  7^.  td.  net. 

UNDER    THE    DRAGON    FLAG.      My    Experiences    in 

the  Chino-Japanese  War.     By  James  Allan.     Crown  Svo,  is, 

THE    LAST   OF   THE    MASAI.     By   Sidney   Langford 

Hinde  and  Hildegard  Hinde.  With  Illustrations  from  Photographs 
and  Drawings.    4to.    15J.  net. 

UNDER  THE  AFRICAN  SUN.      A  Description  of  Native 

Races  m  Uganda.  Sporting  Adventures  and  other  Experiences.  By  W. 
J.  Ansorge,  M.A.,  LL.D.,  M.R.C.S.,  L.R.C.P.,  late  Senior  Professorat 
the  Royal  College  of  Mauritius,  Meckcal  Officer  to  Her  Majesty's  Govern- 
ment in  Uganda.  With  134  Illustrations  from  Photographs  by  the  Author 
and  Two  Coloured  Plates.     Royal  Svo.     Price  ixs.  net. 

MOGREB-EL-ACKSA.  A  Journey  in  Morocco.  By  R.  B. 
Cunnin«5hame  Graham.  With  a  Portrait  and  Map.  In  One  Volume, 
Svo.    Price  qj. 

TIMBUCTOO  THE  MYSTERIOUS.     By  Felix  Dubois. 

Translated  from  the  French  by  Diana  White.  With  153  Illustrations 
from  Photographs  and  Drawings  made  on  the  spot,  and  Eleven  Maps  and 
Plans.     Demy  Svo,  12^'.  6d. 

TRAVELS     IN     WESTERN    AUSTRALIA.      Being    a 

Description  of  the  various  Cities  and  Towns,  Goldfields,  and  Agricultural 
Districts  of  that  State.  By  May  Vivienne.  Second  Impression,  demy 
Svo,  with  numerous  Illustrations.    Price  6x. 

RHODESIA  PAST  AND  PRESENT.     By  S.  J.  Du  ToiT. 

In  One  Volume,  Svo,  with  Sixteen  full-page  Illustrations,  7^.  (>d. 
THE  NEW  AFRICA.     A  Journey  up  the  Chobe  and  down  the 
Okovanga  Rivers.     By  Aurel  Schulz,  M.D.,  and  August  Hammar, 
C.E.     In  One  Volume,  demy  Svo,  with  Illustrations,  28^-. 

ACTUAL  AFRICA ;  or,  The  Coming  Continent.  A  Tour  of 
Exploration.  By  Frank  Vincent,  Author  of  "  The  Land  of  the  White 
Elephant."     With  Map  and  over  100  Illustrations,  demy  Svo,  cloth,  price 

A    VANISHED    ARCADIA.     By    R.    B.    Cunninghams 

Graham.    Demy  Svo,  gi'. 

AMERICA  TO-DAY.  Observations  and  Reflections.  By 
William  Archer.    Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6^:. 

AMERICA   AND    THE    AMERICANS.     From  a  French 

Point  of  View.     In  one  volume.     Crown  Svo,  -^s.  6d. 

TWELVE  MONTHS  IN  KLONDIKE.      By   Robert  C. 

Kirk.     With  100  Illustrations  and  a  Map.     Crown  Svo,  cloth.     6s.  net. 

THE  CUBAN  AND  PORTO-RICAN  CAMPAIGNS.     By 

Richard  Harding  Davis,  F.R.G  S.    With  119  Illustrations  from  Photo- 
graphs and  Drawings  on  the  Spot,  and  Maps.     Crown  Svo,  cloth,  "js.  6d  net. 


14 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


CUBA  IN  WARTIME.  By  Richard  Harding  Davis,  Author 

of  "Soldiers  of  Fortune."    With  numerous  Illustrations  by  Frederic 
Remington.     Crown  8vo,  price  3^.  6rf. 

THE  LAND  OF  THE  MUSKEG.  By  H.  Somers  Somerset. 

Second  Edition.  Demy  8vo  with  Maps  and  over  100  Illustrations,  280  pp., 
14J.  net. 
THE  OUTGOING  TURK.  Impressions  of  a  Journey  through 
the  Western  Balkans.  By  H  C.  Thomson,  Author  of  *  The  Chitral 
Campaign."  Demy  Svo,  with  Illustrations  from  Original  Photographs. 
Price  14s.  net. 

NOTES     FOR    THE     NILE.     Together    with    a    Metrical 
Rendering  of  the  Hymns  of  Ancient  Egypt  and  of  the  Precepts  of  Ptah- 
hotep  the  •Idest  book  in  the  world).    By  Hardwickb  D.  Rawnsley,  M.  A 
Imperial  i6mo,  cloth,  ^s. 

UNDER  QUEEN  AND  KHEDIVE.  The  Autobiography 
of  an  Anglo-Egyptian  Official.      By  Sir  W.   F.   Mi6villb,  K.C.M.G. 

Crown  Svo,  with  Portrait,  price  6*. 

MONTE    CARLO   ANECDOTES   AND  SYSTEMS  OF 

PLAY.     By  V.  B.,  Author  of  "  Ten  Days  at  Monte  Cario."     Fcap.  Svo,  2s. 

TEN    DAYS   AT   MONTE   CARLO  AT  THE  BANK'S 

EXPENSE.     Containing  Hints  to  Visitors  and  a  General  Guide  to  the 
Neighbourhood.     By  V.  B.     Fcap.  Svo,  2s. 

IN  THE  TRACK  OF  THE  SUN.  Readings  from  the  Diary 
of  a  Globe-Trotter.  By  Frederick  Diodati  Thompson.  With  many 
Illustrations  by  Mr.  Harry  Fenn  and  from  Photographs.    4to,  25^. 

THE  CANADIAN  GUIDE-BOOK.     Part  L     The  Tourist's 

and  Sportsman's  Guide  to  EastemCanada  and  Newfoundland,  including  full 
descriptions  of  Routes,  Cities,  Points  of  Interest,  Sunimer  Resorts,  Fishing 
Places,  &c.,  in  Eastern  Ontario,  The  Muskoka  District,  The  St.  Lawrence 
Region,  The  Lake  St.  John  Country,  The  Maritime  Provinces,  Prince 
Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland.  With  an  Appendix  giving  Fish  and 
Game  Laws,  and  Official  Lists  of  Trout  and  Salmon  Rivers  and  their 
Lessees.  By  Charles  G.  D.  Roberts,  Professor  of  English  Literature  in 
King's  College,  Windsor,  N.S.  With  Maps  and  many  Illustrations. 
Crown  Svo,  limp  cloth,  dr. 

THE   CANADIAN    GUIDE-BOOK.      Part  II.     Western 

Canada.  Including  the  Peninsula  and  Northern  Regions  of  Ontario, 
the  Canadian  Shores  of  the  Great  Lakes,  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  Region, 
Manitoba  and  "The  Great  North-West,"  The  Canadian  Rocky  Mountains 
and  National  Park,  British  Columbia,  and  Vancouver  Island.  By  Ernest 
Ingersoll.  With  ^Iapsand  many  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  limp  cloth,  6j. 

THE  GUIDE-BOOK  TO  ALASKA  AND  THE  NORTH- 
WEST COAST,  including  the  Shores  of  Washington,  British  Columbia, 
South-Eastern  Alaska,  the  Aleutian  and  the  Sea  Islands,  the  Behring 
and  the  Arctic  Coasts.  By  E.  R.  Scidmore.  With  Maps  and  many 
Illustrations.     Crown  Svo,  limp  cloth,  6^. 

EVERYBODY'S  PARIS.  A  Practical  Guide  containing 
Information  as  to  Means  of  Locomotion,  Hotels,  Restaurants,  Cafes, 
Theatres,  Shops,  Museums,  Buildings,  and  Monuments,  Daily  Life  and 
Habits,  the  Curiosities  of  Paris,  &c.  A  rapid  and  easy  method  of  seeing 
everything  in  a  limited  time  and  at  a  moderate  cost.  With  many  Illus- 
trations, Maps,  and  Plans.  Crown  Svo,  paper,  is.  (}d.  net,  or  in  cloth, 
af.  6^/.  net. 

lEssai^s  an5  DBelles  Xettres,  <Sc, 

THE  SOUL  OF  A  CAT  AND  OTHER   STORIES.     By 

Margaret  Benson.  With  Illustrations  by  Henrietta  Ronner  and 
from  Photographs.     Crown  Svo,  3J.  td. 

ESSAY  S  OF  AN  EX-LIBRARIAN.  By  Richard  Garnett, 
C.B.    Crown  Svo,  71.  td. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


IS 


THE  ETERNAL  CONFLICT.  An  Essay.  By  William 
Romaine  Paterson  (Benjamin  Swift).    Crown  Svo,  ts. 

VILLAGE   NOTES,  and  some  other  Papers.      By  Pamela 

Tennant.    With  Illustrations  from  Photographs.    Crown  Svo,  6s. 
STUDIES    IN    STYLE.     By  W.  H.  Helm.     Fcap.  Svo,  gilt 

top,  3 J.  net. 

WILLIAM  SHAKESPEARE.  A  Critical  Study.  By 
George  Brandes,  Ph.D.  Translated  from  the  Danish  by  William 
Archer,  Diana  White,  and  Mary  Morison.  Students'  Edition.  In 
One  Volume,  demy  Svo,  buckram  uncut,  los.  net 

HENRIK    IBSEN.       BJORNSTJERNE     BJORNSON. 

Critical  Studies.  By  George  Brakdes.  Authorised  Translation  from 
the  Danish.  With  Introductions  by  William  Archer.  In  One  Volume, 
demy  Svo.     Roxburgh,  gilt  top,  or  buckram,  uncut,     los.  net. 

MAIN  CURRENTS  IN  NINETEENTH-CENTURY 
LITERATURE.  By  George  Brandes.  Vol.  I.— The  Emigrant 
Literature.  Demy  Svo.  Price  6s.  net.  Vol.  II.— The  Romantic  School 
in  Germany.     Demy  Svo,  gs.  net. 

THE  SYMBOLIST  MOVEMENT  IN  LITERATURE. 

By  Arthur  Symons.    Crown  Svo,  buckram,  6s. 

CORRECTED  IMPRESSIONS.  Essays  on  Victorian  Writers. 
By  George  Saintsbury.     Crown  Svo,  i^ilt  top,  7^.  6d. 

ANIMA  POETiE.  From  the  unpublished  note-books  of  Samuel 
Taylor  Coleridge.  Edited  by  Ernest  Hartley  Coleridge.  Crown 
Svo,  7 J.  6d. 

HYPOLYMPIA,  OR    THE   GODS   IN   THE    ISLAND. 

An  Ironic  Fantasy.    By  Edmund  Gosse.    Fcap.  Svo,  5^. 

SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY  STUDIES.  A  Contribu- 
tion to  the  History  of  English  Poetry.  By  Edmund  Gosse,  Clark 
Lecturer  on  English  Literature  at  the  University  of  Cambridge  ;  Hon. 
M.A.  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge.  A  New  Edition.  Crown  Svo, 
buckram,  gilt  top,  7^.  6d. 

CRITICAL  KIT-KATS     By  Edmund  Gosse.    Crown  Svo, 

buckram,  gilt  top,  7^.  6d. 

QUESTIONS   AT   ISSUE.    Essays.    By  Edmund  Gosse. 

Crown  Svo,  buckram,  gilt  top,  7^.  6d. 

***  A  Limited  Ediiioii  on  Large  Paper,  2ss.  net. 

GOSSIP  IN  A    LIBRARY.     By    Edmund    Gosse.     Third 

Edition.    Crown  Svo,  buckram,  gilt  top,  7^.  6d, 

***  A  Limited  Edition  on  Large  Paj>er,  25J.  net. 

ESSAYS.    By  Arthur  Christopher  Benson,  of  Eton  College. 

Crown  Svo,  buckram,  "js.  6d. 

A   COMMENTARY  ON  THE   WORKS   OF   HENRIK 

IBSEN.    By  Hjalmar  Hjorth  Boyesen.    Crown  Svo,  cloth,  7J.  6d.  net 

THE     POSTHUMOUS     WORKS    OF    THOMAS    DE 

QUINCEY.  Edited,  with  Introduction  and  Notes  from  the  Author's 
Original  MSS.,  by  Alexander  H.  Japp,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.E.,  &c.  Crown 
Svo,  cloth,  65.  each. 

I.  SUSPIRIA   DE   PROFUNDIS.     With  other  Es.says. 

II.  CONVERSATION   AND   COLERIDGE.    With  other 

Essays. 


i6 


MB.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


THE  WORKS  OF  LORD  BYRON.     Edited  by  William 

Ernest  Henley.  To  be  completed  in  Twelve  Volumes.  (The  Letters, 
Diaries,  Controversies,  Speeches,  &c.,  iu  Four,  ami  the  Verse  in  Eight.) 
Small  crown  8vo,  price  5^°.  net  each. 

VCL.  I.— LETTERS,  1804-1813.  With  Portrait  after  Phillips. 

THE  PROSE  WORKS  OF  HEINRICH  HEINE. 
Translated  by  Charles  Godfrey  Leland,  M.A.,  F.R  L.S.  (Hans 
Breitmann).    In  Eight  Volumes. 

The  Library  Edition,  in  crown  8vo,  cloth,  at  s^-  per  Volume.  Each  Volume  of 
this  editicn  is  sold  separately.  The  Cabinet  Edition,  in  special  binding, 
boxed,  price  £2  10s.  the  set.  The  Large  Paper  Edition,  limited  to  50 
Numbered  Copies,  price  155.  per  Volume  net,  will  only  be  supplied  to 
subscribers  for  the  Complete  Work. 

L  FLORENTINE  NIGHTS,  SCHNABELEWOPSKI, 
THE  RABBI  OF  BACHARACH,  and  SHAKE- 
SPEARE'S  MAIDENS  AND  WOMEN. 

II.,  HI.  PICTURES  OF  TRAVEL.     1823-1828. 

IV.  THE  SALON.      Letters  on  Art,   Music,   Popular  Life, 

and  PoUtics. 


v.,  VI.  GERMANY. 

VII.,    VIII.     FRENCH     AFFAIRS. 

1833,  and  Lutetia. 


Letters  from   Paris 


MR.  FROUDE  AND  CARLYLE.     By  David  Wilson.     In 

One  Volume,  8vo,  10^.  6^. 
PARADOXES.     By  Max  Nordau,  Author  of  "  Degeneration," 

"Conventional  Lies  of  our  Civilisation,"  &c.  Translated  by  J.  R. 
McIlraith.  With  an  Introduction  by  the  Author  written  for  this 
Edition.    Demy  8vo,  17s.  net. 

CONVENTIONAL    LIES    OF   OUR    CIVILIZATION. 

By  Max  Norpau,  Author  of  "  Degeneration."  Second  English  Edition, 
Demy  8vo,  17s.  net. 

DEGENERATION.     By   Max    Nordau.      Ninth    English 

Edition.     Demy  Svo,  17^.  net.    Also,  a  Popular  Edition.    SvOj  6j. 

GENIUS  AND  DEGENERATION  :  A  Psychological  Study. 
Ry  Dr.  William  Hirsch.  Translated  from  the  Second  German  Edition. 
Demy  Svo,  17s.  net. 

THE  NON-RELIGION  OF  THE  FUTURE.  From  the 
French  of  Marie  Jean  Guvau.    In  One  Volume,  demy  Svo,  17s.  net. 

STUDIES    OF    RELIGIOUS    HISTORY.      By  Ernest 

Renan,  late  of  the  French  Academy.    Svo,  7s.  dd. 

MANNERS,  CUSTOMS,  AND  OBSERVANCES:  Their 
Origin  and  Signification.     By  Leopold  Wagner.    Crown  Svo,  ds. 

THE  GREAT  WAR  OF  189-.  A  Forecast.  By  Rear- 
Admiral  Colomb,  Col.  Maurice,  R.A.,  Captain  Maude,  Archibald 
Forbes,  Charles  Lowu,  D.  Christie  Murray,  and  F.  Scudamore. 
Second  Edition.  Iu  One  Volume,  large  Svo,  with  numerous  illus- 
trations, ds. 


MR,  HEINEMANN'S  LIST, 


17 


THE     KINGDOM      OF     GOD     IS     WITHIN     YOU. 

Christianity  not  as  a  Mystic  Religion  but  as  a  New  Theory  of  Life.  By 
Count  Leo  Tolstoy.  Translated  from  the  Russian  by  Constance 
Garnett,    Popular  Edition,  cloth,  2s.  6d, 


Domestic  Economy* 


THE  COMPLETE  INDIAN  HOUSEKEEPER  AND 

COOK.  Giving  the  Duties  of  Mistress  and  Servants,  the  General 
Management  of  the  House,  and  Practical  Recipes  for  Cooking  in  all  its 
Branches.  By  Flora  Annie  Steel  and  Grace  Gardiner.  Fourth 
Edition,  revised  to  date.     Crown  Svo.     Price  6^. 

THE  COOK'S  DECAMERON.  A  Studv  in  Taste.  Con- 
taining over  200  recipes  for  Italian  dishes.  By  Mrs.  W.  G.  Waters.  Crown 
Svo.    Price  2s.  6ci. 

THE  AMERICAN    SALAD   BOOK.      The  most  Complete 

Original,  and  Useful  Collection  of  Salad  Recipes  ever  brought  together 
By  Maximilian  de  Loup.    Crown  Svo,  cloth,    ay.  dd. 


(Batbening,  3Botan\>,  an&  matural  t)i5torB* 

THE  ROSE:    A  Treatise  on  the  Cultivation,  History,  Family 

Characteristics,  &c.,  of  the  various  Groups  of  Roses.  With  Accurate 
Description  of  the  Varieties  now  Generally  Grown.  By  H.  B.  Eli^. 
wanger.  With  an  Introduction  by  George  H.  Ellwanger.  ismo, 
cloth,  55. 

THE  GARDEN'S  STORY;  or,  Pleasures  and  Trials  of  an 
Amateur  Gardener.  By  G.  H.  Ellwanger.  With  an  Introduction  by  the 
Rev.  C.  WoLLEY  DoD.     i2mo,  cloth,  with  Illustrations,  5^. 

NATURE'S     GARDEN.      An  Aid   to  Knowledge  of    Wild 

Flowers  and  their  Insect  Visitors.  With  Coloured  plates  and  many 
other  Illustrations,  photographed  from  Nature  by  Henry  Troth,  and 
A.  R.  DuGAiOKE.    Text  by  Neltje  Blanchan.    Royal  Svo,  \2S.  dd.  net 


IFacetia^,  8ic. 

THE  CORONATION  NONSENSE-BOOK.     In  the  style 

of  the  old  "  Book  of  Nonsense  "  by  the  late  Edward  Lear.     By  the  PoET 
and  Painter  of  "  Clara  in  Blunderland."     Paper,  i^. ;  cloth,  2s. 

CLARA    IN     BLUNDERLAND.    By    Caroline    Lewis. 

With  40  Illustrations  by  S.  R.     Crown  Svo,  2s.  6d. 

JOHN  HENRY.    By  Hugh  McHugh.     Fcap.  Svo.    Price  is, 

MR.  DOOLEY'S  OPINIONS.     Crown  Svo,  3^.  6d. 

MR.  DOOLEY'S  PHILOSOPHY.  With  coloured  Frontis- 
piece,  by  William  Nicholson,  and  Illustrations  by  £.  W.  Kbmblb 
and  F.  Offbr.    Crown  Svo,  v«  ^* 


It 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


THE  POCKET  IBSEN.   A  Collection  of  some  of  the  Master's 

best  known  Dramas,  condensed,  revised,  and  slightly  rearranged  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Earnest  Student.  By  F.  Anstey,  Author  of  "Vice  Versa," 
"Voces  Populi,"  &c.  With  Illustrations  reproduced,  by  permission, 
from  Punch,  and  a  new  Frontispiece  by  Bernard  Partridge.  New 
Edition.     i6mo,  cloth,  y.  6d.  ;  or  paper,  2S.  td. 

FROM  WISDOM  COURT.  By  Henry  Seton  Merriman 
and  Stephen  Graham  Tallentyre.  With  30  Illustrations  by 
E.  Courboin.     Crown  8vo,  cloth,  3^.  td. ;  or  picture  boardx,  2J. 

WOMAN— THROUGH     A    MAN'S     EYEGLASS.     By 

Malcolm  C.  Salaman.  With  Illustrations  by  Dudley  Hardy.  Crowa 
8vo,  cloth,  35.  td. ;  or  picture  boards,  is, 

THE     SPINSTER'S     SCRIP.      As    Compiled   by    Cecil 

Raynor.     Narrow  crown  8vo,  limp  cloth,  is.  td. 

THE  PINERO  BIRTHDAY  BOOK.     Selected  and  arranged 

by  MvRA  Hamilton.     With  a  Portrait.     i6mo,  cloth,  2j.  td. 
STORIES  OF  GOLF.     Collected  by  William  Knight  and 

T.  T.  Oliphant.  With  Rhymes-on  Golf  by  various  hands  ;  also  Shake- 
speare on  Golf,  &c.     Enlarged  Edition.     Fcap.  Svo,  cloth,  is.  6d. 

Dcainatfc  Xiteratuve* 

THE  PIPER  OF  HAMELIN;  A  Fantastic  Opera  in  Two 
Acts.  By  Robert  Buchanan.  With  Illustrations  by  Hugh  Thomson. 
4to,  cloth,  zs.  6d.  net. 

THE  TYRANNY  OF  TEARS.  A  Comedy  in  Four  Acts. 
By  C.  Haddon  Chambers.     i6mo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.  ;  paper,  is.  6d. 

THE  AWAKENING.    By  C.  Haddon  Chambers.     i6mo, 

cloth,  2s.  td.  ;  paper,  \s.  6d. 

GIOCONDA.   A  Play  in  Four  Acts.   By  Gabriele  D'Annunzio. 

Translated  by  Arthur  Symons.    Small  4to,  ^s.  6d. 
THE    DEAD   CITY.     A   Play   in   Five   Acts.     By   Gabrielr 

D'Annunzio.    Translated  by  Arthur  Symons.     Small  4to,  cloth,  3^.  6d. 
JAPANESE    PLAYS     AND    PLAY    FELLOWS.       By 

Osman  Edwards.    With  12  Plates,  reproduced  in  colours  from  Japanese 

originals.     8vo,  loj.  net. 

KING  ERIK;  A  Tragedy.  By  Edmund  Gosse.  A  Re -issue, 
with  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Mr.  Theodore  Watts.  Fcap.  8vo, 
boards,  55.  net. 

THE  PLAYS  OF  GERHART  HAUPTMANN. 

THE  SUNKEN  BELL.     Fcap.  8vo,  boards,  ^s.  net. 
HANNELE.     Small  410,  with  Portrait,  ^s.     Paper  covers,  is.  6d.;  or 

cloth,  2S.  6d. 
LONELY  LIVES.     Paper  covers,  js.  6d.;  or  cloth,  2s.  6d. 
THE  WEAVERS.    Paper  coveis,  is.  td.\  or  cloth,  2^.  dd. 

THE  GHETTO.  A  Drama  in  Four  Acts.  Freely  adapted 
from  the  Dutch  of  Herman  Heijermans,  Juiu,  by  Chester  Bailey 
Fernald.     i6mo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.  ;  paper,  is.  6d. 

THE  PLAYS  OF  W.  E.  HENLEY  AND  R.  L.  STEVEN- 
SON. Crown  8vo,  cloth.  An  Edition  of  250  copies  only,  lor.  6d.  net, 
or  separately,  i6mo,  cloth,  2s.  6d.  each,  or  paper,  is.  6d. 

DEACON  BRODIE  1  ADMIRAL  GUINEA 

BEAU  AUSTIN.  |  MACAIRE. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


19 


THE  PLAYS    OF    HENRIK    IBSEN.    Uniform    Edition. 
With  Introductions  by  William  Archer.   Cloth,  2s.  6d. ;  or  paper  covers, 


IS.  6d.  each. 

WHEN  WE  DEAD  AWAKEN. 
JOHN  GABRIEL  BORKMAN. 
LITTLE  EYOLF. 


THE  MASTER  BUILDER. 
HEDDA  GABLER. 


BRAND  :  A  Dramatic  Poem  in  Five  Acts.  By  Henrik  Ibsen. 
Translated  in  the  original  metres,  with  an  Introduction  and  Notes,  by 
C.  H.  Herford.     Small  4to,  cloth,  js.  6d. 

THE  DRAMA  :  ADDRESSES.  By  HenryIrving.  With 
Portrait  by  J.  McN.  Whistler.    Second  Edition.     Fcap.  8vo,  3X.  6d. 

THE  PRINCESS  MALEI^E:  A  Drama  in  Five  Acts 
(Translated  by  Gerard  Harry),  and  THE  INTRUDER;  A  Drama  in 
One  Act.  By  Maurice  Maeterlinck.  With  an  Introduction  by  Hall 
Caine,  and  a  Portrait  of  the  Author.     Small  4to,  cloth,  5^. 

HIS  EXCELLENCY  THE  GOVERNOR.  A  Farcical 
Romance  in  Three  Acts.  By  R.  Marshall.  i6mo,'cloth,  2s.  6d. ;  paper, 
IS.  6d. 

THE  PLAYS  OF  GILBERT  MURRAY. 

CARLYON   SAHIB.    A  Drama  in  Four  Acts.     i6mo,  cloth,  2j.  6d.; 

paper,  is.  6d. 

ANDROMACHE.     A    Play    in    Three    Acts.     i6mo,    cloth,    2s    6d.; 
paper,  is.  6d. 

THE  PLAYS  OF  ARTHUR  W.  PINERO.     Paper  covers, 
6d. ;  or  cloth,  2s.  td.  each. 

THE  NOTORIOUS  MRS.  EBB- 
SMITH. 

THE  BENEFIT  OF  THE 
DOUBT. 

THE  PRINCESS  AND  THE 
BUTTERFLY. 

TRELAWNY  OF  THE 
"WELLS." 

•  THE  SECOND  MRS.  TAN- 
QUERAY. 


IS. 

THE  TIMES. 
THE  PROFLIGATE. 
THECABINETMINISTER. 
THE  HOBBY  HORSE. 
LADY  BOUNTIFUL. 
THE  MAGISTRATE. 
DANDY  DICK. 
SWEET  LAVENDER. 
THE  SCHOOL-MISTRESS. 
THE  WEAKER  SEX. 
THE  AMAZONS. 


t  THE  GAY  LORD  QUEX. 
*  This  play  can  be  had  in  Library  form,  4to,  cloth.     With  a  Portrait,  s-r. 
t  A  Limited  Edition  of  this  Play  on  Handmade  Paper,  with  a  New  Por- 
trait, 10s.  net. 

THE  FANTASTICKS.  A  Romantic  Comedy  in  Three  Acts. 
By  Edmund  Rostand.  Freely  done  into  English  Verse  by  Georgk 
Fleming.     i6mo,  cloth  2s.  6d.,  paper  is.  6d. 

CYRANO  DE  BERGERAC.  A  Play  in  Five  Acts.  By 
Edmond  Rostand.  Translated  from  the  French  by  Gladys  Thomas 
and  Mary  F.  Guillemard.  Small  4to,  5J.  Also,  Popular  Edition,  i6mo, 
cloth,  2^^.  6d. ;  paper,  is.  6d. 

THE  FRUITS  OF  ENLIGHTENMENT:    A  Comedy  in 

Four  Acts.  By  Count  Lyof  Tolstoy.  Translated  from  the  Russian  by 
E.  J.  Dillon.  With  Introduction  by  A.  W.  Pinero.  Small  4to,  with 
Portrait,  55.  ;  Paper  Covers,  is.  6d. 

SOME      INTERESTING       FALLACIES      OF      THE 

MODERN  STAGE.     An  Address  delivered  to  the  Playgoers'  Club  at  St. 

iames's  Hall,  on  Sunday,  6th  December,  1891.   By  Herbert  Beerbohjh 
'r£E.   Crown  8vO|  sewed,  6a.  net. 


20 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST' 


IPoetrg^ 


THE    GARDEN    OF  KAMA  ;   and  other  Love  Lyrics  from 

India.     Arranged  in  Verse  by  Laukence  Hope.     Square  8vo,  5^.  net. 

THE  POEMS  OF  SCHILLER.  Translated  into  English  by 
E.  P.  Arnold-Foster.    Crown  8vo,  dr.  o  j 

POEMS.     By  Arthur  Symons.     In  Two  Volumes.     Square 

8vo.     With  Photogravure  Portrait.     los.  net. 

IMAGES   OF   GOOD   AND  EVIL.    By  Arthur  Symons. 

CrowTi  8vo,  buckram,  6s. 

THE  FOREST  CHAPEL,  and  other  Poems.  By  Maxwell 
Gray  Author  of  "The  Silence  of  Dean  Maitland,"  "The  Last  Sentence." 
C2C.     reap,  ovo,  pnce  5^.  ' 

POEMS  FROM  THE  DIVAN  OF  HAFIZ.  Translated 
from  the  Persian  by  Gertrude  Lowthian  Bell.  Small  crown  8vo. 
price  OS.  ' 

THE    POETRY    OF    WILFRID    BLUNT.     Selected  and 

^^•^   K^^^xV"^'''-^^^^  George  Wyndham.     With  an  Intro- 
duction  by  W.  E.  Henley.     Crown  8vo,  price  6s. 

ON  VIOL  AND  FLUTE.     By  Edmund  Gosse.     Fcap.  8vo. 

with  l-  rontispiece  and  1  ailpiece,  price  3J.  6d.  net. 

FIRDAUSI  IN  EXILE,  and  other  Poems.  By  Edmund 
OossE.     Fcap.  8vo,  with  Frontispiece,  price  3J.  6d.  net. 

IN    RUSSET    AND    SILVER.     POEMS.     By  Edmund 

Gosse.    Author  of  "  Gossip  in  a  Library,"  &c.    Fcap  8vo, price  3^.  6^.  net 

THE  POETRY  OF  PATHOS  AND  DELIGHT.     From 

the  Works  of  Coventry  Patmore.     Passages  selected  by  Alice  Mey- 

SARCEN^i  r'/  TcTp^r:.  fr^"'  ''°"  ^  ^'  ^^^"^^«  ^y  J^"** 

A  CENTURY  OF  GERMAN  LYRICS.      Translated  from 

td^^^Ted  Freiligkath  Kroekkr.      Fcap.  8vo.  rough 

^^"^^uS^^^l     ^^    ENGLISH     POETS,     1500-1800. 

With  Notes  by  Ralph  H.  Caine.     Fcap.  8vo,  rough  edges,  3J.  6d. 
*♦•  Larg^e  Paper  Edition^  limited  to  100  Copies,  loj.  td,  rut. 

^^  Sr^^-^.^^o^  GOWN.  Three  Centuries  of  Cambridge  Wit. 
^t^tv^  Charles  Whibley  Third  Edition,  with  a  New  Intrlduction. 
and  a  Frontispiece,  crown  Bvo,  y.  6d.  net.  "*."""! 

IVY   AND    PASSION    FLOWER:    Poems.      By  Gerard 

Bendall,  Author  of  "  Estelle,"  &c.  &c.    lamo.  cloth,  3s.  (J. 

VERSES.     By  Gertrude  Hall.     i2mo,  cloth,  3^.  6a'. 
IDYLLS    OF    WOMANHOOD.     By    C.    Amy    Dawson. 

Fcap.  8vo,  gilt  top,  sf.  * 

TENNYSON'S   GRAVE.     By  St.  Clair  Baddeley.    8vo 

paper,  is.  * 

THE  BLACK  RIDERS.  And  Other  Lines.  By  Stephen 
Crane,  Author  of  "The  Red  Badge  of  Courage.'  i6mo.  leather  eUt 
top,  3*.  net.  '  '» 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


21 


Ebucation  aub  Science: 
LITERATURES    OF  THE   WORLD. 

A   Series  of  Short  Histories. 

Edited  by   EDMUND   GOSSE,    LL.D, 

Each  Volume  Large  Crown  8vo,  Cloth  6s. 

A  HISTORY  OF  ANCIENT  GREEK  LITERATURE. 

By  Gilbert  Murray,  M.A.,  Professor  of  Greek  in  the  University 

of  Glasgow. 
A  HISTORY  OF  FRENCH  LITERATURE.    By  Edward 

DowDEN,   D.C.L.,    LL.D.,   Professor  of  Oratory  and    English 

Literature  in  the  University  of  DubUn. 
A  HISTORY  OF  MODERN  ENGLISH  LITERATURE. 

By  the  Editor,  Hon.  M.A.  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge,  Hon. 

LL.D.  of  St.  Andrews. 
A  HISTORY  OF  ITALIAN  LITERATURE.    By  Richard 

Garnett,  C.B.,  LL.D.,  Keeper  of  Printed  Books  in  the  British 

Museum. 
A  HISTORY  OF  SPANISH  LITERATURE.    By  J.  FiTZ- 

maurice-Kelly,  Corresponding  Member  of  the  Spanish  Academy. 
A    HISTORY     OF     JAPANESE    LITERATURE.      By 

W.  G.  ASTON,  CM. G.,  D.Lit.,  late  Japanese  Secretary  to  H.M. 

Legation,  Tokio. 
A    HISTORY    OF    BOHEMIAN    LITERATURE.      By 

Francis,  Count  Lutzow. 
A    HISTORY   OF    RUSSIAN    LITERATURE.    By  K. 

Waliszewski. 
A    HISTORY     OF     SANSKRIT    LITERATURE.       By 

Arthur  A.  Macdonell,  M.A.,  Ph.D.,  of  Corpus  Christi  College, 

Oxford  ;  Boden  Professor  of  Sanskrit  and  Fellow  of  Balliol. 
A  HISTORY  OF  CHINESE  LITERATURE.  By  Herbert 

A.  Giles,  M.A.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  Chinese  in  the  University 

of  Cambridge. 

The  following  are  ayranged  for  : — 
A  HISTORY  OF  MODERN  SCANDINAVIAN  LITER- 
ATURE.    By  George  Brandes,  of  Copenhagen. 
A  HISTORY    OF    HUNGARIAN    LITERATURE.     By 

Dr.   ZOLTAN  Beothy,  Professor  of  Hungarian  Literature  at  the 

University  of  Budapest,  and  Secretary  of  the  Kisfaludy  Society. 
A  HISTORY  OF  AMERICAN  LITERATURE.     By  Pro- 

fessor  ^^.  P.  Trent, 
A  HISTORY*  OF  LATIN  LITERATURE.    By  Dr.  A.  W. 

Verrall,    Fellow     and     Senior    Tutor    of    Trinity     College, 

Cambridge. 
A   HISTORY    OF    PROVENCAL    LITERATURE.     By 

H.  Gelsner,  D.Litt.  of  Caius  College,  Cambridge. 
A  HISTORY  OF  HEBREW  LITERATURE.  By  Philippe 

Berger,  of  the  Institute  of  France. 
A   HISTORY  OF  PERSIAN    LITERATURE.     By  Prof. 

Denison  Ross. 
A    HISTORY    OF   ARABIC    LITERATURE.      By  Prof. 

Clement  Huart. 


.'iSL., 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST, 


THE  GREAT   EDUCATORS. 

A  Series  of  Volumes  by  Eminent  Writers^  presenting 
in  their  entirety  "^  Biographical  History  of  Education^ 

Each  subject  forms  a  complete  volume,  crown  8vo,  5^. 

ARISTOTLE,  and  the  Ancient  Educational   Ideals.     By 
Thomas  Davidson,  M  A.,  LL.D. 

LOYOLA,  and  the  Educational  System  of  the  Jesuits.     Bj 

Rev.  Thomas  Hughes,  S.J. 

ALCUIN,   and  the    Rise   of  the  Christian    Schools.     By 
Professor  Andrew  F.  West,  Ph.D. 

FROEBEL,  and  Education  by  Self-Activity.    By  H.  Court- 

HOPE  Bowen,  M.A 

ABELARD,   and  the   Origin  and  Early   History  of  Uni- 
versities.   By  Professor  Jules  Gabriel  Compavrb. 

HERBART  AND  THE   HERBARTIANS.    By  Charles 

de  Garmo,  Ph.D. 

THOMAS  AND   MATTHEW    ARNOLD,  and  their  In- 
fluence on  English  Education.    By  Sir  Joshua  Fitch,  M.A.,  LL.D. 

HORACE   MANN,   and  the   Common  School  Revival  in 
the  United  States.    By  B.  A.  Hinsdale,  Ph.D.,  LL.D. 

ROUSSEAU;   and,  Education  according  to  Nature.     By 

Thomas  Davidson,  M.A.,  LL.D. 

PESTALOZZI;     and    the    Foundation    of    the    Modern 

Elementary  School.  By  A.  Pinloche,  sometime  Professor  at  the  University 
of  Lille,  Professor  in  the  Lyc6e  Charlemagne  and  the  Ecole  Polytechnique, 
Paris. 


23 


HEINEMANN'S  SCIENTIFIC  HANDBOOKS. 

THE  BIOLOGICAL  PROBLEM  OF  TO-DAY:  Pre- 
formation or  Epigenesis?  Authorised  Translation  from  the  German  of 
Prof.  Dr.  Oscar  Hertwig,  of  the  University  of  Berlin.  By  P.  Chalmers 
Mitchell,  M.  A.,  Oxon.     With  a  Preface  by  the  Translator.   Crown  8vo. 

MANUAL  OF  BACTERIOLOGY.    By  A.   B.  Griffiths, 

Ph.D.,  F.R.S.  (Edin.)  F.C.S.    Crown  8vo,  cloth,  Illustrated.    5J. 
MANUAL  OF  ASSAYING  GOLD,  SILVER,  COPPER, 

TIN,  AND  LEAD  ORES.  By  Walter  Lee  Brown,  B.Sc  Revised, 
Corrected,  and  considerably  Enlarged,  and  with  chapters  on  the  Assaying 
of  Fuels,  Iron  and  Zinc  Ores,  &c.  By  A.  B.  Griffiths,  Ph,D.,  F.R.S. 
(Edin.),  F.C.S.    Crown  8vo,  cloth.     Illustrated,  7^.  td. 

GEODESY.    By  J.  Howard  Gore.     Crown  8vo,  cloth,  Illus- 

trated,  ^. 

THE    PHYSICAL    PROPERTIES     OF    GASES.      By 

Arthur  L.  Kimball,  of  the  Johns  Hopkins  University,  Crown  Svot 
cloth,  Illustrated,  sj. 

HEAT  AS  A  FORM  OF  ENERGY.  By  Professor  R.  H. 
Thurston,  of  Cornell  University,    Crown  8vo,  cloth,  Illustrated,  5*. 


» 


AN    ILLUSTRATED    HISTORY    OF    ENGLISH 

LITERATURE.  By  Richard  Garnett,  C.B.,  LL.D.,  and  Edmund 
GossE,  M.A.,  LL.D.     In  Four  Volumes,  very  fully  Illustrated 

THE    FRENCH   AND    ENGLISH   WORD    BOOK.    A 

Dictionary.  With  Indication  of  Pronunciation,  Etymologies,  and  Dates 
of  Earliest  Appearance  of  French  Words  in  the  Language.  By  H. 
Edgren,  Ph.D.  and  P.  B.  Burnet,  M.A.  With  an  Explanatory  Preface 
by  R.  J.  Lloyd,  D.Litt.,  M.A.  Bvo  cloth,  xos.,  or  half-morocco,  i6j. 
SEMANTICS:  Studies  in  the  Science  of  Meaning.  By 
Michel  Br^al,  Professor  of  Comparative  Grammar  at  the  College  de 
France.  Translated  by  Mrs.  Henry  Cust.  With  a  Preface  by 
J.  P.  PoSTGATE,  Professor  of  Comparative  Philogy  at  University  College, 
London.     Large  crown  8vo,  cloth  -js.  6d.  net. 

TELEPHOTOGRAPHY.      An  Elementary   Treatise  on  the 

Construction  and  Application  of  the  Telephotographic  Lens.  By  Thomas 
R.  Dallmeyer,  F.R.A.S.,  Vice-President  of  the  Royal  Photographic 
Society.     4to,  cloth,  with  26  Plates  and  68  Diagrams.    Price,  15J.  net, 

THE    PLAY    OF    MAN.      By  Carl    Groos,    Professor   of 

Philosophy  in  the  University  of  Basel.  Translated  with  the  Author's 
co-operation  by  Elizabeth  L.  Baldwin,  with  a  Preface  by  J.  Mark 
Baldwin,  Ph.D.,  Hon.  D.Sc.  (Oxon),  Professor  in  Princeton  University. 
Crown  8vo,  7s.  6d.  net. 

EVOLUTIONAL  ETHICS  AND  ANIMAL  PSYCH- 
OLOGY.   By  E.  P.  Evans.    Crown  Bvo,  qj. 

MOVEMENT.  Translated  from  the  French  of  E.  Marey. 
By  Eric  Pritchard,  M.A.,  M.B.  Oxon.  In  One  Volume,  crown  8vo 
with  170  Illustrations,  7^.  6d. 

LUMEN.  By  Camille  Flammarion.  Authorised  Translation 
from  the  French  by  A.  A.  M.  and  R.  M.  With  portions  of  the  last 
chapter  written  specially  for  this  edition.    Crown  8vo,  35.  6d. 

OUTLINES  OF  THE  EARTH'S  HISTORY.  A  Popular 
Study  in  Physiography.  By  Nathaniel  Southgate  Shaler.  8vo, 
with  Ten  fuli-page  Illustrations,     -js.  6d. 

THE  STORY  OF  THE  GREEKS.     By  H.  A.  Guerber. 

Crown  Bvo,  with  Illustrations.    3^.  6d. 

ARABIC  AUTHORS:  A  Manual  of  Arabian  History  and 
Literature.  By  F.  F.  Arbuthnot,  M.R.A.S.,  Author  of  "  Early  Ideas," 
"Persian  Portraits,"  &c.     8vo,  cloth,  $s. 

THE  MYSTERIES  OF  CHRONOLOGY.  With  pro- 
posal  for  a  New  English  Era  to  be  called  the  "Victorian."  By  F.  F. 
Arbuthnot.    8vo,  6s.  net. 

A  SHORT  TREATISE  OF  BELGIAN  LAW  AND 

LEGAL  PROCEDURE.  From  a  Practical  Standpoint,for  the  Guidance  of 
British  Traders,  Patentees,  and  Bankers,  and  British  Residents  in  Belgium. 
By  Gaston  de  Leval.     Fcap.  8vo,  paper,  is.  6d. 

PRISONERS  ON  OATH,  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE, 

By  Sir  Herbert  Stephen,  Bart..   8vo,  boards,  is.  net. 

THE    ARBITRATOR'SV'MANUAL.     Under   the   London 

Chamber  of  Arbitration.  Being  a  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Power  and 
Duties  of  an  Arbitrator,  with  the  Rules  and  Procedure  of  the  Court  of 
Arbitration,  and  the  Forms.  By  Joseph  Seymour  Salaman,  Author  ol 
••  Trade  Marks,"  &c.     Fcap.  Bvo,  3J.  id. 


u 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


Juvenfle. 


A  CHILD'S  LIFE  OF  THE  KING  FROM  HIS  BIRTH 

TO  HIS  CORONATION.  By  Alton  Towers.  With  32  Coloured 
Illustrations  by  Edmund  Smyth.  i6mo,  cloth,  is.  td.  net;  white 
vellum,  IS.  6d.  net. 

FAIRY   TALES.    By  Hans  Christian  Andersen.     Newly 

translated  by  H.  L.  Braekstad.  With  an  Introduction  by  Edmund 
GossE.  Illustrated  by  Hans  Tegner.  Royal  8vo,  20J.  net,  or  in  Two 
Volumes  \os.  net  each. 

FAIRY  TALES  FROM   THE   SWEDISH  OF  BARON 

G.  DJURKLOU.    Translated  by  H.  L.  Br^kstad.    With  Illustrations 
by  T.  KiTTELSEN  and  Erik  Werenskiold,  and  a  Frontispiece  by  Carl 
Larsson.    4to,  boards,    ^s.  6d. 

THE   SQUARE    BOOK    OF    ANIMALS.      By  William 

Nicholson     With  Rhymes  by  Arthur  Waugh.    410  boards,  sx. 

*^*  There  is  also  a  limited  Edition  on  Japanese  Vellum,  pyice  i2x.  td.  net. 

THE   BELOVED    SON.    The  Story  of  Jesus  Christ,  told  to 

Children.     By  Mrs.  Francis  Rye.     i6mo.  cloth,  -zs.  td. 

LITTLE  JOHANNES.  ByF.  Van  Eeden.  Translated  from 
the  Dutch  by  Clara  Bell.  With  an  Introduction  by  Andrew  Lang. 
i6mo,  cloth,  silver  top,  3^.  net. 

A  BATTLE  AND  A  BOY.    By  Blanche  Willis  Howard. 

With  Thirty-nine  Illustrations  by  A.  MacNiell-Barbour.  Crown  8vo,  6^ 

GIRLS  AND  WOMEN.  By  E.  Chester.  Pot  8vo,  cloth, 
sf.  6^.,  or  gilt  extra,  3^.  td. 

fffctiom 

BOULE  DE  SUIF.  From  the  French  of  Guy  de  Maupas- 
sant. With  an  Introduction  by  Arthur  Svmons,  and  56  Wood 
Engravings  from  Drawings  by  F.  Th^venot.  Royal  8vo,  boards,  500 
copies  only,  on  Japanese  vellum,    i^s.  net. 

A  CENTURY  OF  FRENCH  ROMANCE 

Edited  by  EDMUND  GOSSE,  LL.D. 
With  Portrait-Notes  by  OCTAVE  UZANNE. 

A  Library  Edition,  in  12  Volumes,  demy  8vo,  cloth  gilt,  flat  backs  and  gilt 
top,  limited  to  1000  Sets,  price  Four  Guineas  the  Set. 
Also  separate  Volumes,  js.  td.  each. 

THE    CHARTREUSE    OF    PARMA.     Translated  from 

the  French  of  De  Stendhal  by  the  Lady  Mary  Loyd.  With  a  Critica 
Introduction  by  Maurice  Hewlett  ;  Four  Coloured  Plates  by  Eugene 
Paul  Avril,  Photogravure  Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 
COLOMBA  AND  CARMEN.  Translated  from  the  French 
of  Prosper  MltRiM^E  by  the  Lady  Mary  Loyd.  With  a  Critical  Intro- 
duction  by  Arthur  Symons;  Four  Coloured  Plates  by  Parys,  Photo- 
gravure  Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

MAUPRAT.  Translated  from  the  French  of  George  Sand 
by  Stanley  Young.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  John  Oliver 
HoBBEs;  Three  Coloured  Plates  bv  Eugene  Paul  Avril,  Photogravure 
Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 


•  « 


I. 


2. 


MR.  HEINEMANN*S  LIST. 


25 


4.  THE  BLACK  TULIP.     Translated  from  the   French  of 

Alexandre  Dumas,  pere.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Richard 
Garnett,  C.B.,  LL.D.;  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Henry  Delaspre, 
Photogravure  Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

5.  THE  LADY  OF  THE  CAMELLIAS.    Translated  from 

the  French  of  Alexandre  Dumas,  fils.  With  a  Critical  Introduction 
by  Edmund  Gosse,  LL.D.;  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Georges  Jean- 
NIOT,  Photogravure  Frontispice,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

6.  THE  ROMANCE  OF  A  POOR  YOUNG  MAN. 

Translated  from  the  French  of  Octave  Feuillet.  With  a  Critical 
Introduction  by  Henry  Harlakd  ;  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Simont 
Guilhem,  Photogravure  Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

7.  MADAME  BOVARY.       Translated  from  the  French  of 

Gustave  Flaubert.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Henry  James  ; 
Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Georges  Jeanniot,  Photogravure  frontis- 
piece, and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

8.  NOTRE-DAME  OF  PARIS.  Translated  from  the  French 

of  Victor  Hugo.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Andrew  Lang; 
Four  Coloured  Plates  by  Louis  Edouard  Fournier,  Photogravure 
Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

THE   TWO  YOUNG   BRIDES.      Translated  from  the 

French  of  Honore  de  Balzac.  Wiih  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Henry 
James  ;  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Eugene  Paul  Avril,  Photogravure 
Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

THE  NABOB.     Translated  from  the  French  of  Alphonse 

Daudet.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  Prof.  Trent  ;  Three  Coloured 
Plates  by  Louis  Edouard  Fournier,  Photogravure  Frontispiece,  and 
numerous  small  Portraits. 

RENEE  MAUPERIN.     Translated  from  the   French  of 

Jules  and  Edmond  de  Goncourt.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by 
James  Fitzmaurice-Kelly  ;  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Michael, 
Photogravure  Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 

PIERRE  AND  JEAN.  Translated  from  the  French  of 
Guy  de  Maupassant.  With  a  Critical  Introduction  by  the  Earl  of 
Crewk;^  Three  Coloured  Plates  by  Henry  Delaspre,  Photogravure 
Frontispiece,  and  numerous  small  Portraits. 


THE  WORKS  OF  TOLSTOY. 

Translated  from  the  Russian  Original  by 
CONSTANCE  GARNETT. 
A  Library  Edition.     Demy  8vo,  price  ys,  6d.  per  Volume. 
I-II.    ANNA   KARENIN.     In  Two    Volumes;     with 

Photogravure  Frontispiece. 

IIL    IVAN  ILYITCH.     And  other  Stories. 


26 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


popular  63.  novels. 

BENEFITS  FORGOT.    By  Wolcott  Balestier. 

A    CHAMPION    IN    THE    SEVENTIES.     By  Edith  A. 
Barnett. 

THE  GLOWWORM.     By  May  Bateman. 

A    DAUGHTER    OF    THIS   WORLD.      By  F.  Batter- 

SHALL. 

SCARLET  AND  HYSSOP.     By  E.  F.  Benson. 

THE  LUCK  OF  THE  VAILS.     By  E.  F.  Benson. 

MAMMON  &  CO.     By  E.  F.  Benson,  Author  of  "  Dodo." 

THE  PRINCESS  SOPHIA.    By  E.  F.  Benson. 

GILLETTE'S  MARRIAGE.     By  Mamie  Bowles. 

THE  AMAZING  LADY.     By  M.  Bowles. 

THE  BROOM  OF  THE  WAR-GOD.     By  H.  N.  Brails- 

FORD. 

A  SUPERFLUOUS  WOMAN.     By  Emma  Brooke. 
TRANSITION.     By  the  Author  of  "  A  Superfluous  Woman." 
LIFE  THE  ACCUSER.    By  the  Author  of  «*A  Superfluous 

Woman." 

THE  ETERNAL  CITY.     By  Hall  Caine. 

THE  CHRISTIAN.    By  Hall  Caine. 

THE  MANXMAN.    By  Hall  Caine. 

THE  BONDMAN.    A  New  Saga.    By  Hall  Caine. 

THE  SCAPEGOAT.    By  Hall  Caine. 

THE  LAKE  OF  WINE.    By  Bernard  Capes. 

COTTAGE  FOLK.     By  Mrs.  Comyns  Carr. 

JASPAR  TRISTRAM.     By  A.  W.  Clarke. 

THE    INHERITORS.    By  Joseph   Conrad  and  Ford  M. 

HUEFFER. 

THE  NIGGER   OF   THE   "NARCISSUS."    By  Joseph 
Conrad. 

LAST  STUDIES.    By  Hubert  Crackanthorpe.     With  an 

Introduction  by  Mr.  Henry  James,  and  a  Portrait. 

SENTIMENTAL  STUDIES.  By  Hubert  Crackanthorpe. 

ACTIVE  SERVICE.    By  Stephen  Crane. 

THE  THIRD  VIOLET.    By  Stephen  Crane. 

THE  OPEN  BOAT.     By  Stephen  Crane. 

PICTURES  OF  WAR.     (The  Red  Badge  of  Courage,  The 
Little  Regiment,  &c.)     By  Stephen  Crane. 

BOWERY      TALES      (MAGGIE      AND      GEORGE'S 

MOTHER).    By  Stephen  Crane. 

THE  CHILD  OF  PLEASURE.  By  Gabriels  D'Annunzio. 
THE  VICTIM.    By  Gabriele  D'Annunzio. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


27 


Miction —ipopulai:  6$.  IRovels* 

THE  TRIUMPH  OF  DEATH.    By  Gabriele  D'Annunzio 
THE     VIRGINS     OF     THE     ROCKS.         By    GABRiELh 

D'Annunzio. 

THE   FLAME   OF   LIFE.     By  Gabriele  D'Annunzio. 
THE    LION    AND    THE    UNICORN    AND     OTHER 

STORIES.     By  Richard  Harding  Davis.     Illustrated. 
SOLDIERS    OF    FORTUNE.      By     Richard     Harding 

Davis. 
JOSEPH  KHASSAN:  HALF-CASTE.    By  A.  J.  Dawson. 
AFRICAN    NIGHTS'    ENTERTAINMENT.     By    A.  J. 

Dawson. 

THE    STORY     OF     RONALD     KESTREL.     By   A.    J. 

Dawson. 
HEARTS  IMPORTUNATE.    By  Evelyn  Dickinson. 
THE  IMAGE  BREAKERS.     By  Gertrude  Dix. 

THE    STORY    OF   A    MODERN    WOMAN.      By   Ella 

Hepworth  Dixon. 
LOVE  AND  HIS  MASK.     By  Mknie  Muriel  Dowie. 
SPINDLE  AND  PLOUGH.     By  Mrs.  Henry  Dudeney. 
FOLLY  CORNER.     By  Mrs.  Henry  Dudeney. 

THE    MATERNITY   OF   HARRIOTT    WICKEN.      By 

Mrs.  Henry  Dudeney. 
JEM  CARRUTHERS.     By  the  Earl  of  Ellesmere  (Charles 

Granville). 

CHINATOWN  STORIES.     By  Chester  Bailey  Fernald. 

GLORIA  MUNDI.    By  Harold  Frederic. 

ILLUMINATION.    By  Harold  Frederic. 

THE  MARKET  PLACE.     By  Harold  Frederic. 

BY  BREAD  ALONE.    By  L  K.  Friedman. 

THE  EAGLE'S   HEART.     By  Hamlin  Garland 

PETERSBURG  TALES.     By  Olive  Garnett. 

SAWDUST.     By  Dorothea  Gerard. 

THE   COURTESY  DAME.     By  R.  Murray  Gilchrist. 

THE   VOICE   OF   THE   PEOPLE.     By  Ellen  Glasgow. 

PHASES    OF    AN    INFERIOR    PLANET.     By  Ellen 

Glasgow. 

THE  BETH  BOOK.    By  Sarah  Grand. 

THE  HEAVENLY  TWINS.     By  Sarah  Grand. 

IDEALA.    By  Sarah  Grand. 

OUR  MANIFOLD  NATURE.    By  Sarah  Grand.      With 

a  Portrait  of  the  Author. 

THIRTEEN  STORIES.    By  R.  B.  Cunninghame  Graham. 
THE  WHITE  TERROR  :    a  Romance  of  the  French  Revo- 

lution  and  After.     By  Felix  Gkas. 

THE  TERROR;    a  Romance  of  the  French  Revolution. 
By  P^Lix  Gkas. 


28 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


By 


jffctlon— popular  60.  I^orcls^ 

FOUR-LEAVED   CLOVER.     By  Maxwell  Gray. 

THE  WORLD'S   MERCY,  AND  OTHER  TALES.     By 

IW  AX  WELL  GrAV 

THE    HOUSE   OF   HIDDEN    TREASURE.    By  Max- 
well Gray. 
THE  LAST  SENTENCE.    By  Maxwell  Gray. 

SWEETHEARTS  AND  FRIENDS.    By  Maxwell  Gray 

THE    FREEDOM    OF   HENRY    MEREDYTH.     By  M. 

Hamilton. 
McLEOD  OF  THE  CAMERONS.    By  M.  Hamilton. 

A  SELF-DENYING  ORDINANCE.    By  M.  Hamilton. 
THE  HIDDEN  MODEL.     By  Frances  Harrod. 
THE  SLAVE.     By  Robert  Hichens. 

THE  LONDONERS:  An  Absurdity.     By  Robert  Hichens. 
FLAMES.     By  Robert  Hichens.- 
THE  FOLLY  OF  EUSTACE.    By  Robert  Hichens. 
AN  IMAGINATIVE  MAN.    By  Robert  Hichens. 
THE    VALLEY     OF     THE     GREAT    SHADOW. 
Annie  E.  Holdsworth. 

THE  GODS  ARRIVE.     By  Annie  E.  Holdsworth. 
THE  YEARS  THAT  THE  LOCUST   HATH   EATEN. 

By  Annie  E.  Holdsworth. 

THE  TWO  MAGICS.    By  Henry  James. 

WHAT  MAISIE  KNEW.    By  Henry  Tames. 

THE  OTHER  HOUSE.    By  Henry  Tames. 

THE  SPOILS  OF  POYNTON.     By  Henry  James. 

EMBARRASSMENTS.    By  Henry  James. 

TERMINATIONS.    By  Henry  James. 

THE  AWKWARD  AGE.     By  Henry  James. 

ON  THE  EDGE  OF  THE  EMPIRE.    By  Edgar  Jepson 

and  Captain  D.  Beames. 
HERBERT  VANLENNERT.     By  C.  F.  Keary. 
FROM  A  SWEDISH  HOMESTEAD.     By  Selma  Lager- 

LOF.     Translated  by  Jessie  Br6chner. 

THE  FALL  OF   LORD    PADDOCKSLEA.     By  Lionel 

Langton. 
IN  HASTE  AND  AT  LEISURE.     By  Mrs.  Lynn  Linton, 

Author  of  "  Joshua  Davidson,"  &c. 

AT  THE  GATE  OF  SAMARIA.     By  W.  J.  Locke. 
SOME    WOMEN     I     HAVE     KNOWN.     By    Maartex 

M  A  A  RXE  N  S 

IF  I  WERE  KING.    By  Justin  H.  McCarthy. 

RELICS.    Fiagments  of  a  Life.    By  Frances  Macnab. 

A  DAUGHTER  OF  THE  VELDT.     By  Basil  Marnan. 

THE  ASSASSINS.    By  Nevill  M.  Meakin. 

A  PROPHET  OF  THE  REAL.    By  Esther  Miller. 

LIFE  AT  TWENTY.     By  Charles  Russell  Morse. 

THE  DRONES  MUST  DIE.    By  Max  Nordau. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


29 


jfictfon— popular  63.  movels. 

THE  MALADY  OF  THE  CENTURY.    By  Max  Nordau. 

A  COMEDY  OF  SENTIMENT.    By  Max  Nordau. 

MARIETTA'S  MARRIAGE.     By  W.  E.  Norris. 

THE  DANCER  IN  YELLOW.    By  W.  E.  Norris. 

A  VICTIM  OF  GOOD  LUCK.     By  W.  E.  Norris. 

THE  COUNTESS  RADNA.     By  W.  E.  Norris. 

THE  WIDOWER.    By  W.  E.  Norris. 

THE  LION'S  BROOD.     By  Duffield  Osborne. 

THE   QUEEN   VERSUS   BILLY,  AND  OTHER 

STORIES.    By  Lloyd  Osbourne. 

RED  ROCK.    By  Thomas  Nelson  Page.     Illustrated. 
THE  RIGHT  OF  WAY.     By  Gilbert  Parker. 

THE  LANE  THAT  HAD  NO  TURNING.    By  Gilbert 
Parker. 

EZEKIEL'S  SIN.    By  J.  H.  Pearce. 

A  PASTORAL  PLAYED  OUT.    By  M.  L.  Pendered. 

AS  IN   A   LOOKING   GLASS.     By  F.  C.  Philips.     With 

Illustrations  by  Du  Maurier. 

THE  SCOURGE-STICK.     By  Mrs.  Campbell  Praed. 

FOREST  FOLK.     By  James  Prior. 

WITHOUT  SIN.    By  Martin  J.  Pritchard. 

VOYSEY.     By  Richard  O.  Prowse. 

KING  CIRCUMSTANCE.     By  Edwin  Pugh. 

THE  MAN  OF  STRAW.     By  Edwin  Pugh. 

TONY  DRUM.    A  Cockney  Boy.     By  Edwin   Pugh.    With 

Ten  full-paee  Illustrations  by  the  Beggarstaff  Brothers. 

CHUN-TI-KUNG.    By  Claude  Rees. 

BELOW  THE  SALT.    By  Elizabeth  Robins  (C.  E.  Rai- 
mond). 

THE  OPEN  QUESTION.    By  Elizabeth  Robins. 
CHIMERA.     By  F.  Mabel  Robinson. 

THE     CONFOUNDING     OF    CAMELIA.      By    Anne 

Douglas  Sedgwick. 

THE  LAND  OF  COCKAYNE.     By  Matilde  Serao. 

THE  BALLET  DANCER,  AND  ON  GUARD.  By  Matilde 

Serao. 

THE  FAILURE  OF  SIBYL  FLETCHER.     By  Adeline 

Sergeant. 

OUT  OF  DUE  SEASON.    By  Adeline  Sergeant. 
THE   LADY   OF    DREAMS.    By  Una  L.  Silberrad. 


30 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


IFictiotu— popular  es.  ViovclB, 


By  II.  DE  Vere  Stacpoole. 
OF    THE     LORD.      By 


Flora    Annir 


THE  RAPIN. 
THE     HOSTS 

Steei 

voices' IN  THE  NIGHT.    By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
ON  THE  FACE  OF  THE  WATERS.     By  Flora  Annie 

jT'FF'I 

THE  POTTER'S  THUMB.    By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
FROM    THE    FIVE   RIVERS.     By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
IN  THE  PERMANENT  WAY.    By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
RED  ROWANS.     By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
THE  FLOWER  OF  FORGIVENESS.    By  Flora  Annie 

Steei,. 

MISS  STUART'S  LEGACY.     By  Flora  Annie  Steel. 
THE  MINISTER  OF  STATE.     By  J.  A.  Steuart. 
ST.  IVES.     By  Robert  Louis  Stevenson. 
THE  EBB-TIDE.    By  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  and  Lloyd 

OSDOURNE 

MYSTERY  OF  THE  SEA.     By  Bram  Stoker. 
THE  ELEVENTH  COMMANDMENT.     By  Halliwell 

SUTCLIFFE. 

NUDE  SOULS.     By  Benjamin  Swift. 

A  COURT  INTRIGUE.    By  Basil  Thomson. 

VIA  LUCIS.     By  Kassandra  Vivaria. 

JACK  RAYMOND.     By  E.  L.  VoYNiCH. 

THE  GADFLY.    By  E.  L.  Voynich. 

THE  REBEL.     By  H.  B.  Marriott  Waison. 

THE  WAR  OF  THE  WORLDS.     By  H.  G.  Wells. 

THE  ISLAND  OF  DOCTOR  MOREAU.   By  H.G.Wells. 

CORRUPTION.    By  Percy  White. 

MR.  BAILEY-MARTIN.    By  Percy  White.    With  Portrait. 

TANGLED  TRINITIES.     By  Daniel  Woodroffe. 

SONS  OF  THE  SWORD.     A  Romance  of  the  Peninsular 

War.    By  Margaret  L.  Woods. 
THE  STORY  OF  EDEN.     By  Dole  Wyllarde. 
THE   MANTLE    OF   ELIJAH.     By  L  Zangwill. 
THEY  THAT  WALK  IN  DARKNESS.     By  L  Zangwill. 
THE  MASTER.     By  I.  Zangwill.     With  Portrait. 
CHILDREN  OF  THE  GHETTO.     By  L  Zangwill. 
DREAMERS  OF  THE  GHETTO.      By  I.  Zangwill. 
THE  KING  OF  SCHNORRERS,  GROTESQUES  AND 

fantasies.    By  L  Zangwill.   With  Ninety-eight  Illustrations. 

THE  CELIBATES'  CLUB.     By  L  Zangwill. 

WITHOUT  PREJUDICE.    By  L  Zangwill. 

THE    PREMIER   AND    THE    PAINTER.     A  Fantastic 

Roniance.     By  I.  Zangwill  and  Louis  Cowen. 
CLEO  THE   MAGNIFICENT.     By  Z.  Z. 
THE  WORLD  AND  A  MAN.    By  Z.  Z. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


3t 


jftction— popular  50*  IWovels* 

THE  -SECRET   OF    NARCISSE.      By  Edmund    Gosse. 

Crown  8vo,  buckram. 

THE  ATTACK  ON  THE  MILL.     By  6mile  Zola.    With 

Twenty-one  Illustrations,  and  Five  exquisitely  printed  Coloured  Plates, 
from  Original  Drawings  by  E.  CoURBOiN.    In  One  Volume,  4to. 


ifiction— popular  46»  Ittovels^ 

THE  DOLLAR  LIBRARY  OF  AMERICAN 

FICTION. 

THE    GIRL   AT    THE    HALFWAY    HOUSE.      By  E. 

Hough. 
PARLOUS  TIMES.    By  David  Dvvight  Wells. 
LORDS  OF  THE  NORTH.     By  Agnes  C.  Laut. 
THE  CHRONIC  LOAFER.     By  Nelson  Lloyd. 
HER  MOUNTAIN  LOVER.     By  Hamlin  Garland. 
SISTER  CARRIE.     By  Theodore  Dreiser. 
THE  DARLINGTONS.     By  E.  E.  Peake. 
THE  DIARY  OF  A  FRESHMAN.     By  C.  M.  Flandrau. 
A  DRONE  AND  A  DREAMER.     By  Nelson  Lloyd. 
IN  OLE  VIRGINIA.     By  Thomas  Nelson  Page. 
THE  BELEAGUERED  FOREST.     By  Elia  W.  Peattie. 
THE  GREAT  GOD  SUCCESS.     By  John  Graham. 


ifiction*— popular  3s*  6&»  models* 

MAMMON.     A  Novel.     By  Mrs.  Alexander. 

LOS  CERRITOS.     By  Geptrude  Franklin  Atherton. 

THE    AVERAGE   WOMAN.      By  Wolcott  Balestier. 

With  an  Introduction  by  Henry  J  AMES. 

PERCHANCE  TO   DREAM,  and  other  Stories.    By  Mar 

CARET  S.  Briscoe. 
CAPT'N    DAVY'S    HONEYMOON,     The   Blind   Mother, 

and  The  Last  Contession.   By  Hall  Caine. 

A  MARKED  MAN.     By  Ada  Cambridge. 

A  LITTLE  MINX.    By  Ada  Cambridge. 

A   CONSPIRACY   OF    SILENCE.     By  G.  Col  more. 

A  DAUGHTER   OF   MUSIC.    By  G.  Colmore. 

BLESSED    ARE    THE     POOR.      By  Francois  Copp^e. 

With  an  Introduction  by  T.  P.  O'Connor. 

WRECKAGE,   and   other  Stories.     By  Hubert  Crackan- 

THORPB. 

THE   KING'S  JACKAL.     By  Richard  Harding  Davis. 
With  Four  Illustrations  by  Charles  Dana  Gibson. 


32 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


ificttou.— Ipopulav  33*  65.  IRopcl^^ 

IN  SUMMER  ISLES.     By  Burton  Dibbs. 

THE    OUTSPAN.     Tales  of   South  Africa.     By  J.    Percy 
FitzPatrick. 

THE  COPPERHEAD  ;  and  other  Stories  of  the  North 
during  the  American  War.    By  Harold  Frederic. 

THE    RETURN    OF    THE    O'MAHONY.     By  Harold 

Frederic.    With  Illustrations. 

IN  THE  VALLEY.  By  Harold  Frederic.  With  Illus- 
trations. 

THE  ORLOFF  COUPLE,  AND  MALVA.  By  Alexei 
Maximovitch  Peshkoff,  Maxim  Gorki.  Authorised  Translation  from 
ib=  Russian  by  Emily  Jakowleff  and  Dora  B.  Montefiore.  With  a 
Portrait. 

MR«.  JOHN  FOSTER.    By  Charles  Granville. 

MADSMOISELLE  MISS,  and  other  Stories.  By  Henry 
Harland. 

APPA3SI0NATA :  A  Musician's  Story.  By  Elsa  D'Esterre 
Keeling. 

A  MARRIAGE  IN  CHINA.     By  Mrs.  Archibald  Little. 

WRECKERS  AND  METHODISTS.  Cornish  Stories.  By 
H.  D.  LowRY. 

A  QUESTION   OF  TASTE.    By  Maarten  Maartens. 

HER    OWN    FOLK.     (En  Famille.)    By  Hector  Malot, 

Author  of  "  No  R  elations."    Translated  by  Lady  Mary  Loyd. 

AROMANCE  OF  THE  CAPE  FRONTIER.    By  Bertram 

Mitford, 

'TWEEN  SNOW  AND  FIRE.  A  Tale  of  the  Kafir  War  of 
1877.    By  Bertram  Mitford. 

ELI'S  DAUGHTER.    By  J.  H.  Pearce. 

INCONSEQUENT  LIVES.  A  Village  Chr onicle.  By  J.  H. 
Pearce. 

THE  MASTER  OF  THE  MAGICIANS.    By  Elizabeth 

Stuart  Phelps  and  Herbert  D.  Ward. 
ACCORDING  TO   ST.  JOHN.     By  Am4lie  Rives. 
THE   STORY    OF    A   PENITENT    SOUL.     Being    the 

Private  Papers  of  Mr.  Stephen  Dart,  late  Minister  at  Lynnbridge,  in  the 
County  of  Lincoln.   By  Adeline  Ser  geant. 

UNCLE    PIPER  OF  PIPER'S  HILL.    By  Tasma. 

HER   LADYSHIP'S    ELEPHANT.    By  David  Dwight 

Wells. 

HIS  LORDSHIP'S  LEOPARD.   By  David  Dwight  Wells. 
AVENGED   ON    SOCIETY.     By  H.  F.  Wood. 

STORIES  FOR  NINON.    By  Emile  Zola.     With  a  Portrait 

by  Will  Rothenstein. 

THE  ATTACK  ON  THE  MILL,  and  other  Sketches 
of  War.    By  Emilb  Zola.    With  an  Essay  on  the  short  stories  of  M. 

Zola  by  Edmund  Gossb. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


33 


if  (ctfon —Deinemanti's  5ntetnational  Xfbrars^ 

I^m>  -ff^'/zw.-"  If  you  have  any  pernicious  remnants  of  literary  chauvinism 
I  hope  It  will  not  survive  the  series  of  foreign  classics  of  which  Mr.  William 
Hememann.  aided  by  Mr.  Edmund  Gosse  is  publishing  translations  to  the  great 
contentment  of  all  lovers  of  literature." 

£acA  Volume  has  an  Introduction  specially  -written  by  the  Editor, 

Mr.  EDMUND  GOSSE. 
Cloth,  3s.  6d. ;   Paper  Covers,  28.  6d. 

IN    GOD'S   WAY.    From  the  Norwegian  of  BjOrnstjerne 

Bjornson. 

THE  HERITAGE  OF  THE  KURTS.   From  the  Nomegian 

of  Bjornstjerne  Bjornson. 

FOOTSTEPS    OF    FATE.      From   the   Dutch   of  Louis 

COUPERUS. 

WOMAN'S  FOLLY.    From  the  Italian  of  Gemma  Ferruggia. 
THE  CHIEF  JUSTICE.    From  the  German  of  Karl  Emil 
Franzos,  Author  of  "For  the  Right,"  &c. 

THE  OLD  ADAM  AND  THE    NEW    EVE.     From  the 

German  of  Rudolf  Golm. 

A   COMMON   STORY.    From  the  Russian  of  Ivan  Gont- 

CHAROFF. 

SIREN  VOICES  (NIELS  LYHNE).    From  the  Danish  of 
J.  P.  Jacobsen. 

THE  JEW.    From  the  Polish  of  Joseph  Ignatius  Kraszewskl 

THE  COMMODORE'S  DAUGHTERS.    From  the  Nor- 
wegian  of  Jonas  Lie. 

N I O  B  E.     From  the  Norwegian  of  Jonas  Lie. 

PIERRE   AND  JEAN.    From  the  French  of  GUY  de  Mau- 
passant. 

^^^'^Sis  ^^^^  '^®  Spanish  of  Don  Armando  Palacio- 
FARE WELL  LOVE  I  From  the  Italian  of  Matilde  Serao. 
FANTASY.    From  the  Italian  of  Matilde  Serao. 

WORK  WHILE   YE   HAVE   THE   LIGHT.    From  the 
Russian  of  Count  Leo  Tolstoy. 

PEPITA  JIMENEZ.    From  the  Spanish  of  Joan  Valera. 

DONA  LUZ.  From  the  Spanish  of  Juan  Valera. 

UNDER  THE  YOKE.    From  the  Bulgarian  of  IvAN  Vazoff 


34 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


fftctton  — TTbe  pioneer  Series* 

Cloth,  3S.  net. ;   Paper  Covers,  2s,  6d.  net. 

Th^  AthetuPU7H.—"  If  this  series  keeps  up  to  the  present  high  level  of  interest, 
novel  readers  will  have  fresh  cause  for  gratitude  to  Mr.  Heineinann." 

The  Daily  Tele^aph.—^'UT.  Heineraann's  genial  nursery  of  up-to-date 
romance." 

The  Observer.— ^^  T\it  smart  Pioneer  Series." 

The  Manchester  Courier.—*'  The  Pioneer  Series  promises  to  be  as  origiual  as 
many  other  of  Mr.  Heinemann's  ventures." 

The  Glasgow  Herald.— "  This  very  clever  series." 

The  Sheffield  Telegraph.— '*  Thn  refreshingly  original  Pioneer  Series." 

Black  atid  White.—"  The  brilliant  Pioneer  Series." 

The  Liverpool  Mercury.—"  Each  succeeding  issue  of  the  Pioneer  Series  ha« 
a  character  of  its  own  and  a  special  attractiveness." 

PAPIER  MACHE.    By  Charles  Allen. 

THE  NEW  VIRTUE.    By  Mrs.  Oscar  Beringer. 

YEKL.     A  Tale  of  the  New  York  Ghetto.     By  A.  Cahan. 

LOVE  FOR  A  KEY.     By  G.  Colmore. 

HER  OWN  DEVICES.     By  C.  G.  Compton. 

MILLY'S  STORY.    By  Mrs.  Montague  Crackanthorpe. 

THE  RED  BADGE  OF  COURAGE.    By  Stephen  Crank. 

THE  LITTLE  REGIMENT.     By  Stephen  Crane. 

A  MAN  WITH  A  MAID.     By  Mrs.  Henry  Dudeney. 

LITTLE  BOB.     By  Gyp. 

ACROSS  AN  ULSTER  BOG.    By  M.  Hamilton. 

THE  GREEN  CARNATION.     By  Robert  Hichens. 

JOANNA  TRAILL,   SPINSTER.     By  Annie  E.  Holds- 
worth. 

THE     DEMAGOGUE     AND     LADY     PHAYRE.        By 

William  J.  Locke. 

AN  ALTAR  OF  EARTH.    By  Thymol  Monk. 

A  STREET  IN  SUBURBIA.     By  E.  W.  Pugh. 

THE  NEW  MOON.    By  Elizabeth  Robins  (C.  E.  Raimond). 

GEORGE  MANDEVILLE'S  HUSBAND.    By  Elizabeth 

Robins  (C.  E.  Raimond). 

DARTNELL:  A  Bizarre  Incident.  By  Benjamin  Swift. 
THE  WINGS  OF  ICARUS.  By  Laurence  Alma-Tadema. 
ONE  OF  GOD'S  DILEMMAS.    By  Allen  Upward. 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST, 


35 


ffictfon.—lptice  3s*  net 

THE    NOVELS    OF    BJORNSTJERNE    BJORNSON. 

Uniform  Edition.     Edited  by  Edmund  Gosse.     Fcap.  8vo,  cloth,  35.  net. 
each  volume.  / 

I.     SYNNdVE    SOLBAKKEN.      With   Introductory 
Essay  by  Edmund  Gosse,  and  a  Portrait  of  the  Author. 
ARNE. 

A  HAPPY  BOY. 

THE  FISHER  LASS. 

THE  BRIDAL  MARCH,  AND  A  DAY. 

MAGNHILD,  AND  DUST. 

CAPTAIN    MANSANA,  AND 

HANDS. 
ABSALOM'S     HAIR,    AND     A 

MEMORY. 

THE  NOVELS  OF  IVAN  TURGENEV.  Uniform  Edi- 
tion. Translated  by  Constance  Garnett.  Fcap.  8vo,  cloth,  3^.  net 
each  volume,  or  The  Set  of  15  Volumes  £2  2s.  net. 


II. 
III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 


MOTHER'S 
PAINFUL 


I. 

II. 
III. 
IV. 

V. 

VI., 

VIII., 

X. 
XI. 

xn. 
xin. 

XIV. 
XV. 


RUDIN.     With   a   Portrait   of    the   Author    and    an 
Introduction  by  Stepniak. 

A  HOUSE  OF  GENTLEFOLK. 
ON  THE  EVE. 
FATHERS  AND  CHILDREN. 
SMOKE. 

VII.     VIRGIN  SOIL. 
IX.     A  SPORTSMAN'S  SKETCHES. 
DREAM  TALES  AND  PROSE  POEMS. 
THE  TORRENTS  OF  SPRING,  &c. 
A  LEAR  OF  THE  STEPPES,  &c. 
THE  DIARY  OF  A  SUPERFLUOUS  MAN,&c. 
A  DESPERATE  CHARACTER,  &c. 
THE  JEW,  &c. 


popular  2s.  6&.  1Hov>els. 

IN   THE    FOG.     By  Richard  Harding  Davis. 
THE  CHRISTIAN.     By  Hall  Caine.     (Paper  covers.) 
THE    DOMINANT    SEVENTH:    A  Musical  Story.     By 
Kate  Elizabeth  Clarke. 

THE  TIME  MACHINE.  By  H.  G.  V/ells.  (In  paper,  is.  6d.) 

NOVELETTES  DE  LUXE. 

WHILE  CHARLIE   WAS  AWAY.     By  Mrs.  Poultney 

BiGELOW. 

THE  LATE  RETURNING.     Bv  Margery  Williams. 
THE     GARDEN    OF    CONTENTMENT.      By    Elenor 

MORDAI  NT. 


Sfrpcnnv  j6t>ition. 

THE     RED     BADGE     OF     COURAGE.       By    Stephen 

Ckane.     Paper  covers,  with  design  by  R.  Caion  WoouviLLri. 


BBaiMiiiiiiWiiin.;j|iMtittariii  H 


36 


MR.  HEINEMANN'S  LIST. 


prtce  25. 

MAGGIE.     By  Stephen  Crane 

THE  RECIPE  FOR  DIAMONDS.  ByC.J.CuTCLiFFE  Hyne. 

THE  HEAD  OF  THE  FIRM.     By  Mrs.  Riddrix. 

NOR  WIFE  NOR  MAID.     By  Mrs.  Hungerford. 

THE  BLACK  TORTOISE.     By  Frederick  Viller. 

A  KNIGHT  OF  THE  WHITE  FEATHER.     By  Tasma. 

THE  JUSTIFICATION  OF  ANDREW  LEBRUN.     By 

THE   DULL^' MISS   ARCHINARD.     By  Anne   Douglas 

Sedgwick. 
GOD'S  FOUNDLING.     By  A.  J.  Dawson. 
EQUALITY.     By  Edward   Bellamy,  Author  of    "  Looking 

B 1  c  K  W3jn 

COME    LIVE    WITH    ME    AND    BE    MY    LOVE.     By 

Robert  Bithan.^n. 
THE  HOYDEN.     Bv  Mrs.  IJungerford. 
THE  SURRENDER  OF  MARGARET  BELLARMINE. 

By  Adfline  Sergeant. 

THE  PENANCE  OF  PORTIA  JAMES.     By  Tasma. 


Dcincmaun  s  IHovcl  Xtbcarg. 

Price  IS.  6d.  net. 
THE  KING  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS.   By  Edmond  About. 
THE  FOURTH  NAPOLEON.    By  Charles  Benham. 
THE  THREE  MISS  KINGS.     By  Ada  Cambridge. 
NOT  ALL  IN  VAIN.     By  Ada  Cambridge. 
MR.  BLAKE  OF  NEWMARKET.     By  E.  II.  Cooper. 
A    COMEDY    OF    MASKS.       By    Ernest    Dowson    and 

Arthur  Moore 
A  PINCHBECK  GODDESS.     By  Mrs.  Fleming  (Alice  M. 

Kipling), 

ORIOLE'S  DAUGHTER.     By  Jessie  Fothergill. 
THE  TENOR  AND  THE  BOY.    By  Sarah  Grand. 
THE  REDS  OF  THE  MIDI.     Bv  Felix  Gras. 
THE    O'CONNORS    OF    BALLINAHINCH.     By    Mrs. 

Hungerford. 
IN    THE    DWELLINGS    OF    SILENCE.     A    Romance 

of  Russia.     By  Walkbr  Kennedy. 

DAUGHTERS  OF  MEN.    By  Hannah  Lynch. 

A  ROMANCE  OF  THE  FIRST  CONSUL.    By  Matilda 

Malling. 

THE  TOWER  OF  TADDEO.     By  Ouida. 

THE  GRANDEE.     By  A.  Palacio-Valdes. 

DONALD  MARCY.     By  Elizabeth  Stuart  Phelps. 

LOU.    By  Baron  von  Roberts. 

ST.  IVES.     By  Robert  Louis  Stevenson. 

MISS  GRACE  OF  ALL  SOULS.    By  W.  E.  Tirebuck. 

ANDREA.    By  Peucy  White. 

A  DRAMA  IN  DUTCH.     By  Z.  Z. 


PAGE 
IS 


3n^ey  of  authors. 


About  .    , 
Alderaon    . 
Alexander . 
Allan    .     . 
Allen    .     , 
Andersen  . 
Ansorge     . 
Anstey  .     . 
Arbuthnot 
Archer  .     . 
Armstrong 
Aston    .     . 
Atherton    . 
Baddeley  .    10,  ao 
Baden- Powell     12 
Balestier    .   36, 31 


31 
13 
34 
24 

18 

23 

13 

I 

ai 
31 


PAGE 

Cahan  ...    34 
Cainje(Hall)io,  26 

n  •      /ox      31,  35 

Caine(R.). 

Cambridge 
Capes  .  . 
Carr.  .  . 
Chambers . 
Chester 
Chevrillon. 


31. 


Balzac  . 
Barnett.  , 
Barrett  .  , 
Bateman  , 
Battershall 
Beames .  . 
Behrs  .  . 
Bell  .  .  . 
Bellamy  , 
Bendall  . 
Benedetti  . 
Benham 


25 
26 

36 
26 
26 
28 

7 
II 

36 
20 
10 
36 


20 

36 
26 
26 
18 

24 

13 

26 

35 
.     12 

5.  15 
31,34 
.  16 
.  II 
.     aa 

•  34 
.  26 
.  12 
.  36 

•  31 
33 


27 


PAGE 
21 

27 
36 
31 
13 

34 
25 
13 


Benson  (A.  C.)  15 

Benson  (ELF.)  a6 

Benson  (M.)  .  14 

Beothy .     .     .  ai 

Berger  .     .     .  ai 

Beringer    .     .  34 

Bigelo\y  (P. )  .  10 

Bigelow  (Mra.).  35 
Bismarck  ,  .  5 
Bjornsop  .  33^35 
Blanchatj  .  .  rf 
Bleloch  . 
Blunt  .  . 
Bourgo§ne 
Bowen  .  . 
Bowles .  . 
Boyescn  . 
Brailhford  . 
Brandes     . 


London:  WILLIAM  HEINEMANN,  21  Bedford  Street,  W.C. 


iz 

.     ao 

•  S 

.     aa 

.     26 

•  15 
.     26 

15.  21 

•  9 

•  23 

•  31 
.     26 

.     .     10 

Brown  &Grifhths  22 
Buchanan  18,  36 
Bunyan  .  .  3 
Burgess  .  .  7 
Burneit.  .  .  23 
Butt^.  .  .  II 
%ron  ...     16 


Branner 
Br6al  . 
Briscoe . 
Brooke . 
Brown  . 


Clarke  (A.  W.) 
Clarke  (K.E.) 
Cobbold     .     . 
Coleridge  . 
Colmore    . 
Colomb     . 
Colquhoun     . 
Conipayr^ .     , 
Compton  .     . 
Conrad .    .     . 
Cook     .    .     , 
Cooper .     .     . 
Copp^e      .     . 
Couperus  .     . 
Crackanihorpe 

26,  31 
Crackanthorpe 

(Mrs.)     .     .     3.-J 
Crane     20,  26,  31^ 

n  V        3^'  35'  36 
OaliHieyer.     .     23 

D'Amuiuio 

i8,a6,a7 

Daudk  .  .  25 
DaWdson  .  .  2a 
Davis  13,  27,31.35 
Dawson  (C.  A )  20 
Dawson(A.J,)27,36 
De  Bernis .  .  4 
De  Bourdeille  4 
De  Broglie  .  n 
Decia  ...  12 
De  Goncourt  6,  25 

7 

4 
23 

4 
17 

4 

15 
24 

32 

27 

27 
27 
24 

5 
17 


Dejoinville 
De  Lespinasse 
De  Leval  .     . 
De  Ligne  .     . 
De  Loup  .     . 
De  Motteville 
De  Quincey    5 
De  Stendhal  . 
Dibbs    . 
Dickinson 
Di.x  .     . 
Dixon  . 
Djiirklou 
Donne  . 
Dooley , 


Dowden    . 
Dowie 
Dowson     . 
Dreiser 
Dubois  .     . 
Dudeney  . 
Dumas 
Du  Toil     . 
Edgren 
Edwards    . 
Eeden  .     . 
EUesmere  . 
Ellwanger . 
Evans  .     . 
Fernald      . 
Ferruggia  . 
Fersen 
Feuillet     . 
Fitch     .     . 
Fitzmaurice 
Kelly      . 
FitzPatrick 
Flandrau   . 
Fleming    .     . 
Flam  mar  ion  . 
Flaubert    .     . 
Forbes (A. )     . 
Forbes  (H.O.) 
Fothergill  .     . 
Franzos 
Frederic 
Fried         .     . 
Friedman  .     . 
Furtwangler  . 
Gardiiier   .     . 
j  Garland     .  27 
Garmo  .     .     . 
!  Garuett  (O.)  . 
Garnelt   (R,) 

14,21,23 

Gerard .    . 

Gaulot  .    . 

Gilchrist    . 

Giles     .     . 

Glasgow    . 

Golm    .     . 

Gontcharoff 

Gore  .  , 
Gorki  .  . 
Gosse  s.  7,i5,f8, 
20,21,23,31 
Gounod  .  .  6 
Graham  (C.)  13,  27 
Graham  (J.)  .  31 
Grand  .  .  27,  36 
Granville  .  .  32 
Gras.  .  .  27,  36 
Gray  (Maxwell) 

20,  28 


•  23 
.  18 
.  24 
.  27 

•  17 
3.  23 

•  27 

•  33 

•  4 

•  25 
.     22 

9,21 

II,  32 

•  31 
.     36 

•  23 

•  25 
16 

9 

.     36 

•  33 
27.  32 
.       7 

•  27 

•  S 

•  17 
31 

22 

27 


27 

8 
27 
21 
27 

33 

33 

22 

92 


Griffiths  . 

Groos   .  , 

Guerber  . 

Gusnian  . 

Guyau  .  . 

Gyp.     .  . 

Hafiz    .  . 

Hall.     .  . 

Hamihon  . 

Hammar  . 

Harlard  , 
Harrod 
Hassall 
Hauptmann 
Heaton 

Heijermans 
Heine   .     . 
Helm    .     , 
Helmolt    . 
Henley.     . 
Hertwig    . 
Heusscy    . 
Hichens    . 
Hill.     .     . 
Hinde  .     . 
Hinsdale   . 
Hirsch  .     . 
Hogarth    . 
Holdich     . 
Holdsworth  28,  34 


PAGE 
.   22 

•  23 

•  23 

•  3 

.   16 

•  34 
.  20 

.  20 
28.34 

•  13 

•  32 
.  28 

•  9 
.  18 

•  3 
.  18 

7.  16 

•  IS 

•  9 
.  18 
.  22 
.  6 

28.  34 
.   6 

•  13 
.  22 

.  16 

.   8 

9 


Hope 

Hough  .     .     . 
Howard     .     , 
HovelU    .     . 
Huart   .     .     . 
Hugbes     .    . 
Hugo    .     ,•   5, 
Hume  .    .    . 
Hungerford    . 
Hyne    .     .     . 
Ibsen    .     .     , 
IngersoU    .     . 
Irving  (H.  B.) 
Irving  (Sir  H.) 
Jacobsen    .     . 
Jasper   .     .     . 
James  (Henry) 

12,  28 
James  (Lionel) 


20 

31 
24 
12 
21 
22 

25 
9 
36 
36 
19 
14 
6 

19 

33 

7 


Jepson       .     . 
Keary  (E.  M.) 
Keary(C.  F.) 
Keeling 
Keltic   . 
Kennedy 
Kimball 
Kiplint 
Kirk 


ig 


13 

28 

2b 
32 

8 

36 

22 

2 

13 


\ 


?!t&eS  of  VintbOVS—iconfinued). 


PAGE    i 

PAGE 

Knight .     . 

18 

Mitford     . 

• 

32 

Kraszewski 

33 

Mockler- 

Kroeker    . 

20 

Ferryman 

10 

Kropotkin 

9 

Monk    .     . 

• 

34 

Lagerlof    , 

28 

Moj»khouse    . 

2 

Landor 

II, 

12 

Moore  .     . 

• 

36 

Langton    . 

28 

Mordaunt 

• 

35 

Laughton  . 

5 

Morse  .     . 

• 

28 

Laut     .     . 

31 

MuUer(F.CG.] 

11 

I.awson 

3 

MuUer  (I wan) 

II 

Le  Caron  . 

7 

Muntz  .     . 

• 

2 

Leland .     . 

6 

Murray  (D. 

C.) 

i6 

Le  Querdec 

7 

Murray  (G. )  19, 

21 

Leroy-Beaul 

ieu 

Napoleon  . 

5 

10. 

II 

Nicholson 

.    .  1 

,  2 

Lewis   .     . 

• 

II 

Nordau  16 

.28. 

29 

Lie  .     .    . 

• 

33 

Norman    . 

II 

Linton  .     . 

• 

28 

Norris 

29 

Lloyd   .     . 

• 

31 

Nugent 

5 

Little  (A.) 

9. 

12 

Oelsner     , 

21 

Little  (Mrs. 

A.) 

Oliphant    , 

18 

32 

Osborne    . 

29 

Locke  .     . 

28. 

34 

Osbourne  . 

29 

Lowe    .    . 

6. 

16 

Oswell  ,     , 

5 

Lowry  .     . 

• 

32 

Ouida   . 

36 

Lutzow  (Count) 

21 

Page     . 

.    29 

.31 

Lynch  .     . 

• 

36 

Paget    . 

• 

5 

Maartens  . 

28 

32 

Palacio-Valdes 

McCabe     . 

II 

33. 

36 

McCarthy 

28 

Palatine  (Prin- 

Macdonell 

21 

cess)  .     . 

4 

McFall .     . 

13 

Parker  . 

29 

McHugh    . 

17 

Partsch 

8 

Mackinder 

8 

Pasolini 

6 

Macnab     . 

28 

Paterson    , 

15 

Madame  Elisa- 

Pat more    , 

20 

beth  .     . 

4 

Peake   . 

31 

Maeterlinck 

19 

Pearce  . 

■    29 

.32 

Mailing     . 

36 

Peattie 

31 

Malot    .     . 

32 

Pendered 

29 

Marey  .    , 

23 

Pennell 

10 

Markham  . 

8 

Perry    . 

7 

Marnan     . 

28 

Phelps .     . 

32 

36 

Marshall   , 

19 

Philips  . 

29 

Masson      . 

8 

Pinero  . 

[    18 

19 

Maude .     . 

16 

Pinloche 

22 

Maupassant 

Praed    . 

29 

24. 

25 

33 

Pressens^ 

6 

Maurice     . 

16 

Prior    .     . 

29 

Meakin 

28 

F^rit  chard 

29 

Merriman . 

18 

Prow  so 

29 

Merim^e   . 

24 

Push     . 

29 

.34 

Michel  .     . 

2 

Piilijja  . 

6 

Mieville 

14 

Rawnsiey 

14 

MiUer  .    . 

28 

Ray  nor. 

18 

PAGE 

Reclus  ...  8 
Rees  ...  29 
Rembrandt  .  2 
Renan  ,  .  6,  16 
Ricci  ...  2 
Riddell.  .  ,  36 
Rives  ...  32 
Roberts  (Baron 

von)  ...     36 
Roberts 

(C  G.  D.)  14 
Robins  ...  6 
Robins  (Eliza- 
beth) .  .  29,34 
Robinson  .  .  29 
Ross  ...  21 
Rostand  .  .  19 
Russell  (LC.)  9 
Rye  ...  24 
Saintsbury  .  15 
St.  Simon  .  .  4 
Salaman  (J.  S. )  23 
Salaman  (M.  C.) 

18 
Sand  ...  24 
Sarcey  ...  7 
Schiller  .  .  20 
Schulz  ...  13 
Scidmore  .  .  14 
Scoble  ...  II 
Scudamore  .  16 
Sedgwick  .  29,  36 
Seignobos .  .  10 
Serao  .  .  29, 33 
Sergeant  29, 32, 36 
Shaler  ...  23 
Silberrad  .  .  29 
Somerset  .  .  14 
Stacpoole  .  .  30 
Steel  .  .  17,  30 
Stephen  .  .  23 
Steuart ...  30 
Stevenson 

18,  30,  36 
Stoker  ...  30 
Sutcliffe  .  .  30 
Swift  .  15,  30,  34 
Symons  .  15,  20 
Tadema  .  .  34 
Tallentyre.  .  18 
Tasma  .  .  32,  36 
Tenn.int  ,  .  15 
Thompson  .  14 
Thomson  .  .  14 
Thomson  (Basil)  30 


PAGB 

Thurston   , 

22 

Tirebuck   . 

.      36 

Tolstoy 

17.  19  25.  33 

Towers.     , 

.       24 

Tree     .    . 

.       19 

Trent    .     . 

.      21 

Turgenev  . 

.     35 

Underbill . 

.     12 

Upward    . 

.     34 

Valera  .     . 

.     33 

Vandam    . 

.     10 

Vazoif  .     . 

•     33 

V.  B.     .     . 

.     14 

Verestchagin 

.     II 

Verrall .     . 

.     21 

Viller    .    . 

.     36 

Vincent     . 

.     13 

Vivaria.     .  ^ 

^    30 

Vivien ne    . 

4.C73 

Voynich    , 

r\feo 

Vuillier 

.    3 

Wagner     . 

.  16 

Waliszewski 

6 

.8.  21 

Walker.     . 

.       7 

Ward    .     . 

.     33 

Warner     , 

.     12 

Waters 

.     17 

Watson 

•     30 

Waugh 

.       8 

Weitemever 

.     10 

VVells(D;D.) 

31.32 

Wells  (H.  G 

.) 

30.35 

West     . 

.     22 

Whibley    . 

7,  20 

White  .     . 

30.36 

White  (A.) 

.     10 

Whitman  . 

.    zz 

Wickhoff  . 

.      3 

Wilken      . 

.     zc 

Wilkinson . 

.      5 

Williams  (E. 

E.)I3 

Williams  (M.)  "35 

Wilson ,    . 

.     16 

Wood   .     . 

.     32 

Woodroffe 

•     30 

Woods 

•     30 

Wyckoflf    . 

.       12 

Wyllardft  . 

•       30 

Wyndham 

.       II 

Zangwill    . 

.       30 

Zola .     .     . 

31.  32 

Zi.  £d,      •     • 

30.  36 

London  :  WILLIAM  HEINEMANN,  21  Bedford  Street,  W.C. 


COLUMBIA   UNIVERSITY   LIBRARIES 

This  book  is  due  on  the  date  indicated  below,  or  at  the 
expiration  of  a  definite  period  after  the  date  of  borrowing,  as 
provided  by  the  hbrary  rules  or  by  special  arrangement  with 
the  Librarian  in  charge. 


DATE  BORROWED 

DATE  DUE 

DATE  BORROWED 

DATE  DUE 

•■Wt 

r  ,-»      ^    n     ^T^A 

> 

c8   1 13   iJ^* 

• 

C28(ll49)  100M 

COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


0021064725 


I 


♦« 


I 


